Is it obvious to find which hydraulic lifter is dodgy?
Mine started tapping the other week but disappeared after a few minutes, it was back again last night when I started the car after a few weeks of being stood and it was tapping once again, after a few blips of the throttle it disappeared. The head is coming off tomorrow anyway as the head gasket has gone I just wondered if it would be obvious which one is playing up?
This may be a daft question but is it bad practice to put in a used one from a different engine? (Ive got 16 spare from an old engine that I stripped a while ago).

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Goldie the track car.

Cheers mate, I'll have a go at that tomorrow.

Next question, what is the process of changing valve guides? I'm assuming it's fairly easy so I might aswell do it myself whilst the head is off, I'll be fitting new stem seals too.
Do the valves need lapping in once they've been removed or isn't it necessary if they're going back against the same seat they've always lived in?

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Goldie the track car.

dressing the top of the tappet is a good idea, youll soon find any excessive wear if they dont clean up quickly.

as for the guides I'd let a pro do it, then cut the seats with a 3 anglr cutter like a serdi machine.

are the guides worn??

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Few more questions:

When the crank is pinned, should the pistons be exactly half way up the bore? i.e. all four pistons exactly the same distance down from the deck?

Is it worth smoothing off the ports so they are smooth before sending the head to be cleaned and skimmed, or is the rough finish better for atomising the fuel on the way in?

I'm sure i had more questions but i can't think of them right now, i'll be back on when they pop into my head

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Goldie the track car.

I had a quick look in the ports and didn't see any big lumps to worry about so I think I'll just leave them as-is.
I might have a go at clearing the coke out of the exhaust ports though, is there any chemicals that are effective at this or will most solvents be up to the job?

Where abouts is the bit where you're meant to see how much life the head has left in it after a skim? I had a quick look at the face of the head and it looks like some of the valves may sit proud of the face which I don't remember seeing on my previous head so I'm thinking this one may have been done before, is there a known measurement between the face and somewhere to check how much has been taken off in the past?

I'm pretty sure I got a head gasket kit from the engine builders last time which included a head gasket, exhaust gasket, inlet gasket, thermostat gasket and maybe some others, made by payen from memory. I might see whether they do that but with a thicker head gasket to help compensate for the head skim, do these repair gaskets come in mls or are they fibre?

Which head bolts are considered better, with a female torx head or male torx head?

I'm a little concerned about the timing of the engine, I pinned the cams but the crank didn't line up with the block. The pin in the crank pulley was slightly too far anticlockwise to go into the locking part on the block, but I removed the head without that pinned as it was very unlikely for the crank to rotate anywhere near enough for any piston-valve collisions. Once the head was off the Pistons were a few mm different to the deck.

One other question, I removed the cams from the head before I took the head off to eliminate the possibility of catching any valves once I had the head off, I left the pin in the pullies and undid the 18mm bolt that locks the pulley to the cam, once the bolt was out and I started pulling the pulley off the cam turned slightly due to the fact that some of the valves were part open, I'm guessing there isnt much chance of any valve-valve contact during that small movement? From memory it was cylinder 3 that had the inlet valves opened slightly so they must have closed during the spin.

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Goldie the track car.

standard pulley? check that the keyway is 70 degrees from the pin hole.

________________________________________

need a part number? get on here - http://public.servicebox.peugeot.com

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Check your spark plugs first. One might be working loose

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Nothing to see here

That's not a half hearted job, I took a K-series apart last year to find someone had dropped the head, cracked the corner and one of the cam bearings off, and slapped it back on with some epoxy in the crack.

Sounds like your guy was a pro!

________________________________________

- Bespoke rollcages/additions/adjustments. Half cages right up to complete custom spaceframes - MSA/FIA spec, CDS, ROPT, T45, etc - PM me
Email me!
Custom-made polybushes available - need an odd size or fitment? - anything from batch work to one-off pieces.

its a hydraulic self adjusting tappet, only one component.

you may well be able to revive them by stripping and cleaning the oiston inside.

________________________________________

need a part number? get on here - http://public.servicebox.peugeot.com

Bring on the Trumpets.