Ok update time!
Been away with work for nearly two weeks, but now have a bit of time off to get cracking.

Inevitably peeling back some of the layers has created jobs I hadn't bargained on, so now I just need to get going on some jobs and make the most of the time I have.

My brother is doing the calliper adaptors for me, so with 330mm brakes in the offing I needed a bigger master cylinder. I am fitting a bias valve and hydraulic handbrake too.

I think it was Devere off here, plus another that found the VW transporter T4 master cylinder fits. It's 25.4mm too. Just needs some tweaking due to the outlets being on the opposite side but that's not a problem.





So with breaking a hard pipe trying to disconnect a flexi hose at the junction in the front arch, I thought sod it - out it all comes - the whole rear brake compensator can go, so out came all the hard pipes, all the and wiring. I just ripped into it. Takes 5mins with a cutting disc Made a decent little pile on the floor. About 5kg in total I reckon. Of course a few lines need to go in their place though.

Half the motivation for getting the abs unit out the way and the associated wiring was the need to de-rust and repaint that whole chassis rail section where the battery went and into the top of the inner arch below the fuse box.

That was looking pretty crusty and needed doing. I would have rather done without the extra jobs, but now's the time. There's still a few bits further along the bulkhead I want to attend to, but that can wait for the day when the engine comes out as I'm sure it will at some point in the future. This is enough for now..

So I got busy with various attachments and made a decent impression.
Before:





After:



Now then I've got some questions for you pro's out there;
Can I strip back all this of this wiring from the abs unit - is it a standalone loom?

There's a large trunking of wiring along the chassis rail which looked abs only, leaving the large connector on the side of the unit itself, which leads to this little green connector on the side of the fuse box - is this still abs?



The other question I have it's what's all this crap behind the front bumper in the NSF arch? looks like I have two horns, and some control unit. Is it alarm stuff - how much can I rip out? I only need a horn for the well, horn...



I need to tidy up the metal work behind here and in the arch so if I can chop loads of this crap out I will. If I need to carefully remove.. well that's another matter. I'm more of a cutting disc and snips kinda of a dismantler.

So that was basically yesterday's progress. Today I'll be treating the metalwork I cleaned up with Bilt hamber and will be doing more metal work cleaning under the front arches, as well as dropping out the old beam and looking at what I need to do for the paint work/metal work in the boot floor. Mercifully it looks a lot better than the front.

Oh, my extended driveshafts reappeared back from driveline. Reasonable bill too. Not sure what to do on CV's though. Is there anyway of telling if they're good or bad from visual inspection? Don't want to replace the CV's for the sake of it, but because they were spares, I don't know their condition...

I'll keep you posted on day 2 later..
Cheers
Iain

abs is standalone yes, will have a power and earth plus ignition and warning light and obd, will sll unbolt/unplug easy

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need a part number? get on here - http://public.servicebox.peugeot.com

Bring on the Trumpets.

auto subframes i believe are spaced down to clear the gearbox.

________________________________________

need a part number? get on here - http://public.servicebox.peugeot.com

Bring on the Trumpets.

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Proud Member of the ASTOR Owners Club

From memory, either horn will work alone if you disconnect the other. I am fairly sure I've tried this, and if I remember correctly some base models only came with one horn, someone else will confirm I'm sure.

Can you not connect the battery and test the horns?

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61k miles Ph.1 Diablo '6 Project Thread

not odd, high and low tone.

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need a part number? get on here - http://public.servicebox.peugeot.com

Bring on the Trumpets.

moving along nicely with car iain , keep up the good work mate ,

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wayne mcardle

im Dyslexic and was in a rush to get to work you got the jist



sure it wasn't just a key sync issue?
how many keys do you have?

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Proud Member of the ASTOR Owners Club

The keys were no use to me Dave as the battery and C/locking wasn't connected. Climbed in the boot and sorted it in the end..

Ok day 3 of the blitz. It was a bit wet first thing so laying on my back sorting the boot floor out didn't appeal, so I thought let's go for putting on a rear 3/4 panel instead. I had it in my mind that if I got a jiggle on I could do one side from start to finish..

So first up start trimming the panel and see how it fits. Because they're Kevlar and also quite thick I couldn't keep all the retaining edges because it wouldn't sit right. Using the swage line along the centre of the panel that lines up to the bump strip on the door, I could assess what to keep and what to cut.

In the event I ended up cutting the retaining edge along the door shut and window shut. I did similar with the WRC arched Impreza I'm building so it felt comfortable enough to reach for the cutting discs, but you do have to take care to keep checking and cut a little at a time. This is an early point where I was starting to move in the right direction and get a feel for where it's good and what needs work.



Having sorted the door shut and window edge I could see the back part would be the main challenge.



Little by little I began to figure out how I could get it to wrap around and stay close to the bodywork. If it takes too much pressure to reach it's home, it will in time crack the paint work, so it needs to feel 'relaxed' when in position.



After a bit more fettling, and removing the panel for the millionth time, it was time to start cutting the arch. I didn't want to go fully exposed like Wayne and Ryan have done and peel it all the way back. I liked the idea of the inner arch remaining joined to the outer panel roughly behind where the fuel filler sits. I figure it'll be a bit more weather proof and keep more strength in the panel. I don't think there's a right or a wrong way here, just horses for courses.



I carried on cutting until I was happy with clearance, primed it and painted the exposed edges. I did some rust treatment on the inside behind the fuel filler pipe, but all told everything was in good shape. As you can see above I then used a flap wheel to get to bare metal for a good key for the PU bonding goo. I fitted a little blacket on the back of the panel near where the bumper sits to provide a good edge for the new panel to sit against.



Then it was bonding time! No pics as you need to move fairly speedily at this point. But after scurrying around getting it in position and secured I got to this point;





I used some great little speed clip things to secure the panel to the car. The key (so I'm told) to a good bond is in the strength of the join, and these clips are great in terms of being quick to use when mounting and checking everything, as well as making a strong join. Inevitably I ran out and had to resort to a few self tappers, but the hard work was done at that point.

The original skirts were easy to cut to align with the new panel too.

So that's job done for today. If the weather's kind I'll be a fair bit quicker doing the opposite side tomorrow now I know exactly how I'm tackling it.

Cheers
Iain

Cheers Wayne - your spares went to a good home
Weather looks decent today, but not so good for next week apparently so will be making hay while the sun shines.. All the time the Impreza is skulking in the luxury of the garage!
Got my eye on an EZ up gazebo - can double up as my spray booth too..
Cheers
Iain

Awesome work as always

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Goldie the track car.

Hi what size and offset are your wheels they fill the arches nicely

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Old pugs don't die they just get faster