displaying posts 1 to 15 of 15

Author Subject: Ok, forget the 200bhp. And the grand.
rory77

Junior User

Location: carshalton

Registered: 26 Mar 2016

Posts: 81

Status: Offline

Post #1
Following on my other thread which somebody finally moved from the rudiculous section I put it in, I've had a rethink.

Here's where I'm at for my standard power mostly stripped out track car with good brakes, suspension, tyres and c5 Steelies. Anything here absolutely not worth doing or anything I am totally on the wrong lines with, feel free to abuse me.

Quaife because I can't be bothered setting up and maintaining a plate.
Roller bearing bushes.
Billet flywheel (might as well change the clutch, any recommendations for a decent one, track only car, standard power).
Going to finish stripping it out, haven't decided yet whether to go the whole hog and put plexi windows in etc but it seems to me the last 50/80 kgs is a pain and expensive to get, not sure I'm that bothered. Might just go on a diet instead.
Pipercross Viper.
A/C delete.
Vibratechnics engine mounts.

Any other mounts or bushes I should be replacing?

The Pipercross is pretty expensive for what it is, is it worth it? I've got a cone hanging down in the engine bay, would I be better just enclosing that and utilising the existing cold air feed better?

Maybe I'm in the wrong section again but I'm a sucker for buying stuff if anybody has anything I 'need'.




Posted 2nd Aug 2016 at 16:49
rory77

Junior User

Location: carshalton

Registered: 26 Mar 2016

Posts: 81

Status: Offline

Post #2
Oh yeah, what should I be doing to the existing TB, think I read something about grinding the lip off and polishing it, is that right or am I in the wrong section again?
Posted 2nd Aug 2016 at 16:50
rory77

Junior User

Location: carshalton

Registered: 26 Mar 2016

Posts: 81

Status: Offline

Post #3
Oh yeah, what should I be doing to the existing TB, think I read something about grinding the lip off and polishing it, is that right or am I in the wrong section again?
Posted 2nd Aug 2016 at 17:33
prism7guy

Seasoned Pro

Location: DoncastAAAAARGH

Registered: 13 Jan 2008

Posts: 4,640

Status: Offline

Post #4
I've got a pipercross viper on my track car. I wouldn't pay new price for one, just buy a second hand one for £40-50 and a cleaning kit, give it a good clean and use that. I like my filter but most of them do the same job really.

Consider making your own plastic side windows yourself, get some 3 or 4mm thick lexan, remove a glass window and draw round it, go round that with a jigsaw then tidy up on a linisher if you're fussy with finish then mount in the car. Rears are easy as you can rivet or use countersunk screws and nylocs like i did. For the front i made some alloy 'L' brackets to hold the windows up in the seals, then a few capscrews along the length of the bottom pushing the lexan into the water sealing strip.
For a more oem look i used some very light window tinting film on mine so the car is less of a fish bowl to look at.

Other than that it's not too bad of a list. I'm assuming you've already got an oil cooler?
I found running ducts from the foglight holes and aiming it at the back face of the discs/calipers made a big difference, might be worth considering.

There are quite a few decent track car project threads in the project secion, if you haven't done so already have a nosey through them for inspiration. Thumbs up

________________________________________

Goldie the track car.
Posted 2nd Aug 2016 at 17:54
pete_rallye

Seasoned Pro

Location: Yorkshire

Registered: 12 Dec 2002

Posts: 5,253

Status: Offline

Post #5
Anything you can do to lose weight from the car (and you!) is ideal. Most of it is free too, bar a bit of graft. Get rid of the ac condenser if you haven't already, they weigh a lot and they hang right out over the front of the car. Shift the battery to either the boot or just in front of the rear bench so its central in the car and even a basic cage makes a noticeable difference to the rigidity of the car. A good set of track tyres is always worth a go too, if not what they actually cost!

You can chop a lot out of the doors, boot and bonnet too, a few hours with an angle grinder should see you about 10kgs lighter, although I'd maybe leave the doors until you have some sort of cage.

________________________________________

Oulton Park in a BTCC 306 vid 1
Oulton Park in a BTCC 306 vid 2
Lap of the 'ring
Posted 2nd Aug 2016 at 18:27
rory77

Junior User

Location: carshalton

Registered: 26 Mar 2016

Posts: 81

Status: Offline

Post #6
Yeah going to pull out the entire A/C system. Boot seems like best place for battery to aid a little with corner weighting. Already have a cage and front lower and upper braces. Obviously all the basic stuff is done weight wise, everything is out, sunroof deleted, haven't taken the angle grinder to it yet though. Need to get the dash out and pull all the weight from behind there.

Running AD08'r on C5 Steelies and have run ducting from fog light holes back to discs which are black diamond 6 grooves with ds2500 pads. Still finding an incredible amount of heat in the wheels though. First time I ran it after replacing the Cyclones I melted the powder coat but it's well and truly cured now! Cannot touch the wheels after a run absolutely baking hot, even on a light braking circuit like Brands Hatch Indy.

Thanks for the help guys think I will plough on along those lines. Far too lazy to make my own windows but I think spoox do them for around 220, probably worth it to get all the crap out of the doors.

One think that struck me was the assumption that I have an oil cooler. I don't but on a hot day driving as hard as I can for 20 minutes, I'm not getting over 120 degrees with some fancy 10/60 oil made to perform at higher temps. I figured it was just a good 'un and ignored it! Do I need to get that done.
Posted 2nd Aug 2016 at 19:55
RetroPug

Seasoned Pro

Location: Leicestershire

Registered: 15 Jan 2013

Posts: 2,473

Status: Offline

Post #7
It will only save a bit of weight but a fair few people have ditched the PAS cooling pipes without any issues.

C5 steelies are really light which is great but there are better wheels out there for brake cooling I'd have thought. Are you getting any brake fade with that heat?

You could buy something like this:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TM-902C-K-Type-Digital-Thermometer-50-C-to-1300-C-with-Thermocouple-Sensor-/161750556890?hash=item25a915a0da:gRazzg4AAOSwHnFVmtmN
Or a better quality version that will be more accurate, keep the display somewhere in the cabin, like clipped to a vent or something, and have the thermocouple on the back of a pad/caliper/close. That way you'll be able to measure changes you make to brake cooling to see if they are having their desired effect.

Also, if you know your brakes fade when the back of the pad/caliper hits a certain temperature, you can pit on track days a bit before that so you don't have brake fade, which should extend their life and possibly save yours.

________________________________________

61k miles Ph.1 Diablo '6 Project Thread
Posted 2nd Aug 2016 at 21:27
adam b

Seasoned Pro

Location: The Nam

Registered: 24 Jan 2006

Posts: 12,828

Status: Offline

Post #8
C5 steels are not good for brake cooling. Had the same issue with pretty much the same setup. Ended up using different wheels and brakes anyway.

________________________________________

Nothing to see here
Posted 3rd Aug 2016 at 07:36
adam b

Seasoned Pro

Location: The Nam

Registered: 24 Jan 2006

Posts: 12,828

Status: Offline

Post #9
Nice to see someone genuinely thinking through stuff and how the changes will affect the car

________________________________________

Nothing to see here
Posted 3rd Aug 2016 at 07:37
demondriverdan

Seasoned Pro

Location: Londinium

Registered: 29 Nov 2010

Posts: 2,665

Status: Offline

Post #10
Another option for windows is http://www.acwmotorsportplastics.co.uk/peugeot-306-3dr.html

I tried making my own windows but they were a bit s**t so will be replacing them soon Big grin

________________________________________

Rallye Race Car
Posted 3rd Aug 2016 at 09:00
rory77

Junior User

Location: carshalton

Registered: 26 Mar 2016

Posts: 81

Status: Offline

Post #11
adam b wrote:
C5 steels are not good for brake cooling. Had the same issue with pretty much the same setup. Ended up using different wheels and brakes anyway.



I'm thinking the Steelies might be good for the wet tyres. Might actually help keep a bit of heat in everything.
Posted 3rd Aug 2016 at 10:56
adam b

Seasoned Pro

Location: The Nam

Registered: 24 Jan 2006

Posts: 12,828

Status: Offline

Post #12
Yeah they do, especially on the rear which can be a big issue I find.

________________________________________

Nothing to see here
Posted 3rd Aug 2016 at 23:50
welshpug!

Capt Pedantic

Location: Bigend, Wales.

Registered: 27 Mar 2007

Posts: 25,838

Status: Offline

Post #13
the only worthwhile thing i can see on your list is an atb diff, plate diffs dont need that much work.

the rest is very minimal gains especially vs cost, bar removing stuff.

________________________________________

need a part number? get on here - http://public.servicebox.peugeot.com

Bring on the Trumpets.

Posted 3rd Aug 2016 at 23:55
rory77

Junior User

Location: carshalton

Registered: 26 Mar 2016

Posts: 81

Status: Offline

Post #14
welshpug! wrote:
the only worthwhile thing i can see on your list is an atb diff, plate diffs dont need that much work.

the rest is very minimal gains especially vs cost, bar removing stuff.


It's like Sky Cycling innit! Marginal gains for overall improvement! I'm hoping to win the Tour de France in it next year.
Posted 4th Aug 2016 at 23:42
pete_rallye

Seasoned Pro

Location: Yorkshire

Registered: 12 Dec 2002

Posts: 5,253

Status: Offline

Post #15
But minimal gains is where you end up, be it chassis or engine. Spend £1k on suspension and you'll be 2 secs/lap quicker, to get another 2 secs will take £5k. Same with engines, the more you want, the more each bhp/lbft costs.
One thing often overlooked for additional speed is the gearbox, diff's are an excellent investment, but a shorter final drive, whilst quite expensive to buy, are worth ~30bhp in terms of acceleration, just make sure you buy one that's as short as possible, but not so short you run out of gears at places like Snetterton with long straights.

________________________________________

Oulton Park in a BTCC 306 vid 1
Oulton Park in a BTCC 306 vid 2
Lap of the 'ring
Posted 5th Aug 2016 at 00:00

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