displaying posts 1 to 14 of 14

Author Subject: Cambelt change and clutch kit change
deeturbo

Regular

Location: Leighton Buzzard

Registered: 22 Feb 2003

Posts: 283

Status: Offline

Post #1
Hi all,

I'm planning on changing the cambelt and clutch in the coming weeks.

I'm not that familiar with these engines but know the HDI like the back of my hand.

With the cambelt change I'll be replacing the following;

  • The kit (belt, idler and tensioner)
  • Water pump,
  • Bottom pulley (if damaged)
  • Cam shaft seals 
  • Crank shaft seals
  • Aux belt
  • Aux tensioner
  • Aux idler


  • Is there anything else I should look at or have parts for on this?

    On the clutch change I'll be replacing the;

  • Clutch kit
  • fork bushes
  • Drive shaft seals (both)
  • Input shaft seal
  • Input shaft tube (do these get wear or damaged?)
  • Crank seal

  • The cable looks new and I saw a recent receipt for it so l'll leave that but is there anything else that I should change or look out for while doing the clutch change?
    Posted 14th Jun 2016 at 11:18
    welshpug!

    Capt Pedantic

    Location: Bigend, Wales.

    Registered: 27 Mar 2007

    Posts: 25,838

    Status: Offline

    Post #2
    flywheel bolts.

    gear oil, use pug supplied stuff, there's a new oil which seems to work nicely.


    looks like you have the rest covered.

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    Posted 14th Jun 2016 at 12:14
    cully

    Seasoned Pro

    Location: Cullompton

    Registered: 12 Jun 2013

    Posts: 1,093

    Status: Offline

    Post #3
    pug have changed their oil suppler too Mobil from Total!
    new part number for gear oil is.....
    says on the tin compatible with all Manual transmission

    Mobil GEAR oil FE 75w
    9730AG £17.72 for two litres
    Posted 14th Jun 2016 at 12:41
    deeturbo

    Regular

    Location: Leighton Buzzard

    Registered: 22 Feb 2003

    Posts: 283

    Status: Offline

    Post #4
    Thanks for your reply.

    I found some gear oil on ebay at a good price, it looks like the same new stuff the dealers sell.

    link

    Are the flywheel bolts anything special? I might get some clutch plate bolts to, just in case. Some on a clutch I did the other year had been over tighten and I had to drill the heads off to get them out, a bit drastic but the only option I could think of at the time.

    I've also bought the two line seals. Is this the best time to fit them? Just a bit nervous about taking the sump off and it not sealing up properly after. I was thinking if it's not bad there I might just do the main crank seal and do the line ones once or if it starts leaking there.
    Posted 14th Jun 2016 at 12:44
    deeturbo

    Regular

    Location: Leighton Buzzard

    Registered: 22 Feb 2003

    Posts: 283

    Status: Offline

    Post #5
    cully wrote:
    pug have changed their oil suppler too Mobil from Total!
    new part number for gear oil is.....
    says on the tin compatible with all Manual transmission

    Mobil GEAR oil FE 75w
    9730AG £17.72 for two litres


    Ooh just 75W, does that make the gear selections easier and better?
    Posted 14th Jun 2016 at 12:47
    barrym

    Senior User

    Location: Westcliff-on-sea

    Registered: 26 Jun 2014

    Posts: 502

    Status: Offline

    Post #6
    My local Peugeot dealer recently tried to fob me off with Comma gear oil. I told them to shove it and demanded the proper stuff. Gave me Total straight away, no mention of Mobil?

    ________________________________________

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    Black Rallye occassional toy
    Posted 14th Jun 2016 at 19:07
    bigbadbowen

    Seasoned Pro

    Location: Winchester

    Registered: 21 Nov 2003

    Posts: 13,753

    Status: Offline

    Post #7
    No need to change flywheel bolts ?
    Posted 14th Jun 2016 at 19:29
    monty-69

    Senior User

    Location: Colne

    Registered: 02 Jul 2006

    Posts: 790

    Status: Offline

    Post #8
    The new clutch can go heavy again in less than 6000 miles. I changed to mi16 clutch along with different cable and extended release arm. The car is now no longer a pain to drive in traffic. Along with the skip brown quick shift its the best mod i have done Smile
    Posted 16th Jun 2016 at 12:02
    welshpug!

    Capt Pedantic

    Location: Bigend, Wales.

    Registered: 27 Mar 2007

    Posts: 25,838

    Status: Offline

    Post #9
    20k miles on my clutch and feels the same.

    ________________________________________

    need a part number? get on here - http://public.servicebox.peugeot.com

    Bring on the Trumpets.

    Posted 16th Jun 2016 at 12:19
    deeturbo

    Regular

    Location: Leighton Buzzard

    Registered: 22 Feb 2003

    Posts: 283

    Status: Offline

    Post #10
    monty-69 wrote:
    The new clutch can go heavy again in less than 6000 miles. I changed to mi16 clutch along with different cable and extended release arm. The car is now no longer a pain to drive in traffic. Along with the skip brown quick shift its the best mod i have done Smile


    Ooh, longer arm. What was the arm off?

    I was thinking of a hydraulic conversion if it goes heavy any time soon.

    I bought some fork bushes a couple of weeks back not knowing there are a revised version with a drainage hole on the bottom bush and seals.

    The thing I don't understand is the top bush has a seal on the underside so wouldn't that trap water and cause the top part of the shaft to rust? Would it be worth getting a seal for above the bush to, it doesn't show one in servicebox?
    Posted 17th Jun 2016 at 19:18
    jeffers Forum Admin

    Location: Leeds

    Registered: 14 Dec 2003

    Posts: 3,702

    Status: Offline

    Post #11
    deeturbo wrote:
    monty-69 wrote:
    The new clutch can go heavy again in less than 6000 miles. I changed to mi16 clutch along with different cable and extended release arm. The car is now no longer a pain to drive in traffic. Along with the skip brown quick shift its the best mod i have done Smile


    Ooh, longer arm. What was the arm off??

    I used a bx 16v clutch, and 205 release arm and fork. Manual adjusting cable and away you go. Thumbs up

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    Posted 17th Jun 2016 at 20:11
    monty-69

    Senior User

    Location: Colne

    Registered: 02 Jul 2006

    Posts: 790

    Status: Offline

    Post #12
    Only one rubber seal needed that fits to one of the plastic bushes. The main cause of the heavy clutch pedal is the pressure plate in combination with the wearing of the clutch.

    1.9 mi16 clutch preferably valeo if you can find one
    205 be3 release fork and arm to suit white fork bushes. Either from pug or ecp.
    Manual clutch cable or hdi self adjusting cable.

    Use the same pin and retaining spring for the release arm rather than the knock in pin supplied, then if you decide to cut and extend the release arm its a much easier job. You would be best doing this when the clutch is new and before welding the arm in position make sure there is enough length in the cable to allow for clutch wear. Extending the release arm brings the biting point lower down. If anyone is thinking of doing this i can have a look how much i extended mine.
    Posted 17th Jun 2016 at 20:47
    monty-69

    Senior User

    Location: Colne

    Registered: 02 Jul 2006

    Posts: 790

    Status: Offline

    Post #13
    Jeffers which manual cable did you use? Dunno
    Posted 17th Jun 2016 at 20:49
    jeffers Forum Admin

    Location: Leeds

    Registered: 14 Dec 2003

    Posts: 3,702

    Status: Offline

    Post #14
    monty-69 wrote:
    Jeffers which manual cable did you use? Dunno

    I'm pretty sure it was a 205 one, when I'm next down the garage il check as I'm sure I've kept the part number. Thumbs up

    ________________________________________

    Team Running Engine again!
    Team Negative Camber!
    My Budget track engine build thread!
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    Posted 17th Jun 2016 at 21:48

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