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Author Subject: cambered trailing arms
fatlapit

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Post #101
welshpug knows better than peugeot obviously

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Posted 21st Jan 2015 at 11:24
fatlapit

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Post #102
zx is obviously a better car because there are so many about

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Posted 21st Jan 2015 at 11:28
buzzbrightyear

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Post #103
This place is just turning into stupid braindead disagreements like this one and moving an earth on the gearbox over by an inch stops it starting.

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andrew315rawson@live.co.uk
Moonstone phase 7 gti6
My Project thread: http://www.306gti6.com/forum/showthread.php?id=119992&page=1
Posted 21st Jan 2015 at 11:30
fatlapit

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Post #104
306 oc is better and free

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Posted 21st Jan 2015 at 11:29
buzzbrightyear

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Post #105
I might go over there and leave all those that didn't go to school to keep trying to stub everything everyone posts out and to keep coming up with stupid ideas over here.
, trouble is there all probably over there anyway trying to belittle every post somebody makes when they ain't a clue what there talking about

________________________________________

andrew315rawson@live.co.uk
Moonstone phase 7 gti6
My Project thread: http://www.306gti6.com/forum/showthread.php?id=119992&page=1
Posted 21st Jan 2015 at 11:34
fatlapit

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Post #106
yip lol

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Posted 21st Jan 2015 at 12:47
MisterGTR

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Post #107
buzzbrightyear wrote:
I might go over there and leave all those that didn't go to school to keep trying to stub everything everyone posts out and to keep coming up with stupid ideas over here.
, trouble is there all probably over there anyway trying to belittle every post somebody makes when they ain't a clue what there talking about


And all the good stuff is about HDi's Dunno

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Turned 40 and in true cliched fashion buying one of the cars of my teenage dreams!
Posted 21st Jan 2015 at 13:48
allanallen

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Post #108
buzzbrightyear wrote:
It was measured at 0 toe and everything else was perfectly how it should be, it was on one of those expensive hunter allignment machines that they hang targets of your wheels and a machine in the air sends beams to the targets to measure everything and then it puts the info onto a computer, not the cheap crappy ones where you look at the gauges hanging on wheels.

It would be very good on a track but for road use it doesn't give you any confidence to enjoy it if you can't see what's around a bend, with the foot planted it's solid on the road but when you let off the rear end comes alive, as soon as you plant foot again the rear ended becomes stable again. It's very controllable but if I had to lift off and need to slow down due to an obstacle I wouldn't be able to put foot back down to control it, I'm sure on a track it would be very good, but I won't be using it on track that often of like to enjoy it on the road without been dangerous.
In a straight line it's fine, although I must say under hard braking in a straight line I have to put effort in to stop it snaking, I put that down to the massive front brakes though.




What arms are they though? I'm struggling to think of any arms that give zero toe on a lowered 306. Fatal hasn't even got zero toe, he has 2.0mm at rest, when his soft rear suspension compresses through a bend he'll have even more toe in.

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Posted 21st Jan 2015 at 13:54
buzzbrightyear

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Post #109
I am under the impression they are off a zx like welshpenis has. But if you say that's not possible then I have absolutely no idea mate, Carl built the beam up for me, I dropped mine off but the tube was scrap so I think he built it out of the parts he had layed around in stock, however I had issues with the big brackets that fit between the beam tube and the beam mounts, they had no brackets on them for mounting/securing with the clips- the brake pipes, I had to remove them and send them back he then sent me more with the the brake pipe brackets attached to these.
I must add it looked and still does excellent, the powdercoating on it is very good.

________________________________________

andrew315rawson@live.co.uk
Moonstone phase 7 gti6
My Project thread: http://www.306gti6.com/forum/showthread.php?id=119992&page=1
Posted 21st Jan 2015 at 15:01
fatlapit

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Post #110

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Posted 21st Jan 2015 at 22:47
fatlapit

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Post #111
a better angle for towage

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Posted 21st Jan 2015 at 22:47
rallyeash

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Post #112
hediis wrote:
Yeah, it looks a little bit to low. Here's my toe and camber: -0.28 on left side and +0.21 on right side
Sorry it's in Swedish but I think you figure it out



And here's my ride height with 205/50-15 Dunlop semi slicks





Talk to me about those wheels?!! Where and how much?!

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230 hp 2.1 16v XU 205 rallye on jenveysHyper Project thread here
309 3dr K20 Type R
Posted 22nd Jan 2015 at 19:06
welshpug!

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Post #113
look like XXR 527's, Dean Gammon has some, 15x8,25"

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/XXR-527-15-8-25J-4x100-108-ET0-FLAT-BLACK-MASSIVE-WIDE-RIMS-ALLOY-WHEELS-Z1482-/261571124883


not especially heavy afaik, no chance they'll fit a flatarch or a 309 without proper body mods though LOL

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Posted 22nd Jan 2015 at 19:27
rallyeash

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Post #114
Probably not. Look lovely though

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230 hp 2.1 16v XU 205 rallye on jenveysHyper Project thread here
309 3dr K20 Type R
Posted 22nd Jan 2015 at 22:19
Tingtong117

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Post #115
I race in the Castle Combe Saloon car championship with my black/green gti6.
I had the same problem with my car becoming unstable at Folly corner (after pit lane) and on the top of the rise. I was running 3deg- camber on front, Tranx lsd, 300lb front springs on LEDA suspension, solid beam mounts, hybrid arb, 0toe rear arms, 23mm tbs, Gaz gold rear shocks. Then I changed my front springs to 450lbs, 21mm tbs, standard gti6 rear arms and now it is much more stable through high speed corners 120mph+. The only thing I would say is having approx 2deg negative on the rear would also really benefit the car and is my next job on the list ;-)
Hope this helps
Craig
Posted 23rd Jan 2015 at 11:47
fatlapit

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Post #116
advice well recieved

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Posted 23rd Jan 2015 at 11:59
fatlapit

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Post #117
any one wanna swap arms

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Posted 23rd Jan 2015 at 12:29
Tingtong117

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Post #118
I personally think that bigger tbs are suited to more silverstone/smoother circuits. The 21mm's give much more allowance/feel to the back end and prevents it being 'skippy' rather than absorbing the bumps. The 2deg- rear camber would help on the more like Quarry corners, slightly slower but a lot harder turn in preventing the back end washing out. I found this set up suits my driving style and took nearly a full second off my lap time ;-)
It's all about finding the balance of the car with your driving style. I prefer it more planted rather than 'steering from the rear!'
Posted 23rd Jan 2015 at 12:56
fatlapit

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Post #119
me too i might just have 2 beams

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Posted 23rd Jan 2015 at 13:00
buzzbrightyear

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Post #120
So running more camber at the rear when you've got 0 toe will help make it more planted imstead of steering from the back end everytime your not pressing the pedal, which is exactly how I would describe the 0 toe?

________________________________________

andrew315rawson@live.co.uk
Moonstone phase 7 gti6
My Project thread: http://www.306gti6.com/forum/showthread.php?id=119992&page=1
Posted 23rd Jan 2015 at 15:40
welshpug!

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Post #121
no, more camber if anything will make it worse in a straight line as theres less contact patch, depends on your tyres too.

if yiu run them low you will have toe in anyway even on arms wuth zero toe at std heights.

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need a part number? get on here - http://public.servicebox.peugeot.com

Bring on the Trumpets.

Posted 23rd Jan 2015 at 15:35
buzzbrightyear

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Post #122
Ive never liked the feel of running low tyre pressures, seems to make the front feel understeery when you can feel the tyres rolling/flexing on the rims, I was surprised how low was recommended when I read a recent thread about pressures on track.
Would it still be advisable to run low pressures when you've got 17 inch and 40 profile?
Ive got good year eagle f1s but when I everntually get some mileage done and wear them out I'll change over to michelin ps3s if something better hasn't come out by the time that happens.

________________________________________

andrew315rawson@live.co.uk
Moonstone phase 7 gti6
My Project thread: http://www.306gti6.com/forum/showthread.php?id=119992&page=1
Posted 23rd Jan 2015 at 16:12
rallyeash

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Post #123
Tingtong117 wrote:
I race in the Castle Combe Saloon car championship with my black/green gti6.
I had the same problem with my car becoming unstable at Folly corner (after pit lane) and on the top of the rise. I was running 3deg- camber on front, Tranx lsd, 300lb front springs on LEDA suspension, solid beam mounts, hybrid arb, 0toe rear arms, 23mm tbs, Gaz gold rear shocks. Then I changed my front springs to 450lbs, 21mm tbs, standard gti6 rear arms and now it is much more stable through high speed corners 120mph+. The only thing I would say is having approx 2deg negative on the rear would also really benefit the car and is my next job on the list ;-)
Hope this helps
Craig


So you upped the front lb and reduced the rear? Sorry but that can't help!

I run 300's and 23's at Combe and no problem here. Lapping in 1.18

________________________________________

230 hp 2.1 16v XU 205 rallye on jenveysHyper Project thread here
309 3dr K20 Type R
Posted 23rd Jan 2015 at 16:46
rallyeash

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Post #124
buzzbrightyear wrote:
Ive never liked the feel of running low tyre pressures, seems to make the front feel understeery when you can feel the tyres rolling/flexing on the rims, I was surprised how low was recommended when I read a recent thread about pressures on track.
Would it still be advisable to run low pressures when you've got 17 inch and 40 profile?
Ive got good year eagle f1s but when I everntually get some mileage done and wear them out I'll change over to michelin ps3s if something better hasn't come out by the time that happens.


17's and 40 tyres will make your car handle s**t anyhow.

________________________________________

230 hp 2.1 16v XU 205 rallye on jenveysHyper Project thread here
309 3dr K20 Type R
Posted 23rd Jan 2015 at 16:47
fatlapit

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Post #125
touring cars seem to do ok

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Posted 23rd Jan 2015 at 17:01

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