displaying posts 26 to 50 of 50

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Author Subject: Track day tyre options - what will fit?
welshpug!

Capt Pedantic

Location: Bigend, Wales.

Registered: 27 Mar 2007

Posts: 25,838

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Post #26
riiiighhht....

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Posted 29th Dec 2014 at 08:29
Chr1sch

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Location: Worcester

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Post #27
welshpug! wrote:
also pointless unless you have rally or race car suspension.


Sorry I totally disagree on this one, the car currently has toyo Proxes 4's on it, brand new and they were utterly hopeless on track, they literally dropped off to such a degree I could cross my arms at 80mph and just carry straight on with understeer (it was also very wet!)

I have high hopes for the RSR's albeit I know they're cheap but still £300 on a toy that sees daylight every few weeks at best...

Suspension is Bilstein B8's, Eibach Springs, BakerBM Solid beam Mounts, Rich W wishbones bearings etc - reasonably well sorted ii'd like to think?
Posted 29th Dec 2014 at 08:32
fatlapit

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Location: STOCKSFIELD

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Post #28
welshy cum on i want a proper answer. wat are u catogorising "proper race suspension" as??

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Posted 29th Dec 2014 at 09:03
welshpug!

Capt Pedantic

Location: Bigend, Wales.

Registered: 27 Mar 2007

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Post #29
Chr1sch wrote:
welshpug! wrote:
also pointless unless you have rally or race car suspension.


Sorry I totally disagree on this one, the car currently has toyo Proxes 4's on it, brand new and they were utterly hopeless on track, they literally dropped off to such a degree I could cross my arms at 80mph and just carry straight on with understeer (it was also very wet!)

I have high hopes for the RSR's albeit I know they're cheap but still £300 on a toy that sees daylight every few weeks at best...

Suspension is Bilstein B8's, Eibach Springs, BakerBM Solid beam Mounts, Rich W wishbones bearings etc - reasonably well sorted ii'd like to think?


proxes are s**t so im not surprised at that, especially if they were brand new.

rule 1 of track driving, no fresh rubber.

b8's are fast road not race stuff.

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Posted 29th Dec 2014 at 09:12
rallyeash

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Location: Devizes

Registered: 11 Dec 2006

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Post #30
There's no reason why road tyres can't be good on circuit.

Need to be 4mm or less tread, pressures kept correct (30 hot) and the right amount of camber.

Banging on some stickier tyres will give you more grip granted but you want to make sure your using all the tyre in the corners first.

What were your hot pressure? If you didn't take them what was your cold ones?

________________________________________

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Posted 29th Dec 2014 at 09:29
adam b

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Location: The Nam

Registered: 24 Jan 2006

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Post #31
My AD08R were something like 250 all in... For 15"

It's all about the right pressures and camber.

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Posted 29th Dec 2014 at 18:33
adam b

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Post #32
Even road tyres don't tend to go off in the wet, rare you can get enough heat in to melt them. Tbh none of the toyos are great in the wet anyway

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Posted 29th Dec 2014 at 18:35
Chr1sch

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Post #33
They were pumped to 28 cold, after a cool down lap and stationary for prob 5 mins they were 29/30

Handling is utterly brilliant, I've never driven a car like it (and I've had some what I would class as pretty decent ones)

Honestly the Proxes died, they weren't absolitely brand new, prob 1k miles old (fast driving), I have seen a vid from a friend following and it was just constant understeer and then cronic lift off oversteer (hairpins in the wet I would get wheel spin through all of second) I've never experienced anything like it

It's a project, so on the camber front I don't know what's been played with but it has adjustable drop links (rose jointed ones) and turn in is electric. Whilst b8's maybe fast road it is still and will remain road legal so seem a good compromise although a tad 'floaty' at the back ' over some bumps now it's stripped out in the back

I figured rather then wreck more road tyres Id give the rsrs a go as a compromise
Posted 29th Dec 2014 at 18:51
demondriverdan

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Location: Londinium

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Post #34
The RSRs are cheap enough you can give them a go and if you don't like them, kill them and get something new.

I run about 2.5deg camber at the front and 0.1deg toe out which is fine for the wet. Pushing up to 2.75deg camber to try and even out tyre wear in the dry.

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Posted 29th Dec 2014 at 18:59
rallyeash

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Post #35
28 cold and 29 hot isn't possible! I bet they were 35 hot. I run 22 cold on mine.

Good handling on the road can be so different to track. Wheelspin in second will just be lack of diff.

________________________________________

230 hp 2.1 16v XU 205 rallye on jenveysHyper Project thread here
309 3dr K20 Type R
Posted 29th Dec 2014 at 19:23
Chr1sch

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Location: Worcester

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Post #36
rallyeash wrote:
28 cold and 29 hot isn't possible! I bet they were 35 hot. I run 22 cold on mine.

Good handling on the road can be so different to track. Wheelspin in second will just be lack of diff.


I have no doubt I always do a cool down and that's 4 miles at bedford, should I run the rsr's at say 23 at the start of the day then?

My car is a bit of an unknown, it's been on here a few times but nobody knows much about it but it has all the right bits down to lightenes crank pulley, rich w parts etc, so it may have a certain amount of camber dialled in. I can only go on 'feel' it is is simply epic to drive hard

On the wheelspin front it never lights them up in 2nd unless I change gear like a psycho on the road so diff or not it had very very little traction
Posted 29th Dec 2014 at 20:17
demondriverdan

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Location: Londinium

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Post #37
Put them at around 23, go out and do 6 laps or so then come in and check the hot pressures. Adjust them to be around 30.

You can get your camber measured if you're not sure. You could probably see if there was any sort of camber just by looking, if not put a picture up.

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Posted 29th Dec 2014 at 21:30
adam b

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Post #38
Well don't set them that low if it's raining

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Posted 29th Dec 2014 at 21:47
Chr1sch

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Location: Worcester

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Post #39
Agreed, highly likely on the 16th of Feb! Thanks guys very useful!

Now I just need to get my second fan to work so we don't run at 130 degrees+ all day...
Posted 29th Dec 2014 at 22:27
fatlapit

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Location: STOCKSFIELD

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Post #40
take ure grill out if your too hot and put an oil cooler in

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Posted 30th Dec 2014 at 09:44
Chr1sch

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Location: Worcester

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Post #41
fatlapit wrote:
take ure grill out if your too hot and put an oil cooler in


Ok i will do the Grille thing thanks - ive seen some with holes drilled in, does that help?

I also have an oil cooler mounted but need new piperwork - anyone know what length of braided hose i need (i already have mocal plate thermostat etc)
Posted 30th Dec 2014 at 10:31
adam b

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Location: The Nam

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Post #42
Depends where you mounted it. String might help

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Posted 30th Dec 2014 at 23:14
cully

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Location: Cullompton

Registered: 12 Jun 2013

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Post #43
the hose lengths will depend on where the cooler is fitted and how you run your pipes!
ie: centre/side mounted cooler,oil pipes run right/left/over/under the rad

i suggest dry fitting the cooler and take off plate and mesuring the pipe lengths your self before getting the pipes made


my cooler is mounted centre of Rad and the pipes sweep around the N/S edge of the rad back to the mocal take-off pipe lengths are 54inch and 46inch

info in my project thread here
http://306oc.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=13188&pid=444729#pid444729
Posted 31st Dec 2014 at 10:46
Chr1sch

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Location: Worcester

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Post #44
brilliant thanks Cully! my cooler is already fitted dead centre like yours so the lengths you mention look pretty damn good to me!
Posted 31st Dec 2014 at 15:21
fatlapit

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Post #45
u can make the pipes yourself

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Posted 3rd Jan 2015 at 17:40
Chr1sch

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Location: Worcester

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Post #46
Well they're on!

Went for the Federals in 205/45 fitment and bloody hell they are snug at the back but no rubbing thus far.

I've only done a few miles in very greasy conditions but once 'lightly scrubbed'Wink they instantly felt better than the old Proxes, so I can only assume they are old or knackered or both

Obvious differences: loads of tyre noise, much stiffer, some tram lining as far as I can tell in 20 miles or so
Pics are crap but was also noting camber on my rear beam?




Posted 6th Jan 2015 at 07:38
cully

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Location: Cullompton

Registered: 12 Jun 2013

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Post #47
have you got solid beam mounts fitted?

I found with my 195/45/16 I could rub the arch's on hard loaded cornering on rubber mounts
but since going to solids that don't happen any-more

and no my beam is OK as its been rebuilt
Posted 6th Jan 2015 at 11:51
Chr1sch

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Location: Worcester

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Post #48
Yep solid beam mounts :-)

Although I haven't really thrown it around yet given the road conditions
Posted 6th Jan 2015 at 13:49
cully

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Post #49
i was never able to do it on the road
but could on track with sticky tyres Wink
Posted 6th Jan 2015 at 16:00
Chr1sch

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Location: Worcester

Registered: 02 Aug 2014

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Post #50
Ah interesting, I guess I'll find out then :-)
Posted 6th Jan 2015 at 16:21

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