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Author Subject: Lower rear shock bolt welded in
tony1991

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Post #1
So I'm trying to change my shocks got one side of fine. The other was been a pain so sprayed it with penetrating fluid last night just came back to it hitting it with a sledge not budging so after a little clean around. It looks like it welded in. Can't think why other than a bodge. Any one any ideas of removing it
Posted 4th Mar 2014 at 17:46
welshpug!

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Post #2
hit it harder.

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Posted 4th Mar 2014 at 17:47
3rd time lucky

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Post #3
Grind the weld off and replace the bolt?

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Posted 4th Mar 2014 at 18:01
tony1991

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Post #4
Yer I fort that. But it's the fuel tank side so prob not the best area to have a load of sparks. Should be okay tho. I'm drilling the weld of slowly as we speak think it is working
Posted 4th Mar 2014 at 18:09
aaron6

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Post #5
If you want to use a grinder and are worried, wet a bit towel and cover your concern areas. Tbh it'll be fine. I got all round there with a mig welder and had no issues.

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Posted 4th Mar 2014 at 18:13
aaron6

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Post #6
Or cut the bolt down and drill it out if you can fit a drill in.

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Posted 4th Mar 2014 at 18:14
scotzman

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Post #7
If you can get to the weld with a hacksaw, you'd be through it in seconds

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Posted 4th Mar 2014 at 18:20
buzzbrightyear

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Post #8
I wonder why it's been welded, maybe there's a reason they felt the need to bodge it to stop it coming undone?

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Posted 4th Mar 2014 at 21:50
tony1991

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Post #9
Mm may be but I can't see why as those nuts are the ones with the plastic on the end to stop it coming lose ( I can't remember what they are called). I have another beam here if I have problems with it. I'm not too impressed I have found it is missing the bolts that attach anti roll bar to the plates on either end. Which I'm pretty sure they are needed

The bolt I was having issues with I think I few taps with the sledge it should come out now I have got rid of most the weld

Posted 4th Mar 2014 at 21:59
gretsch-drummer

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Post #10
You don't need to remove the bolt though. Just remove the top bolt, compress the damper so you can push it through the mounting arm gap and just pull it off the bolt.....

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Posted 6th Mar 2014 at 22:25
bigbadbowen

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Post #11
Nylock
Posted 6th Mar 2014 at 22:38
buzzbrightyear

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Post #12
It was me I welded it as I didn't have the right size spanner

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Posted 7th Mar 2014 at 17:19
mcvite

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Post #13
LOL

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Posted 7th Mar 2014 at 17:20
dangti6

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Post #14
bigbadbowen wrote:
Nylock


*Nyloc Thumbs up

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  • Posted 7th Mar 2014 at 18:10
    allanallen

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    Post #15
    The anti roll bar doesn't have bolts that attach it to the end plates, they're press/knocked on and originally have an Allen head plastic screw fitted to keep the s**t out.

    There's absolutly no reason whatsoever that the bolt should of been welded in! I'm guessing it's around the bolt head? They sit semi captive in the arm and can be very stubborn, sure it's not just a build up of rust and crap?

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    Posted 7th Mar 2014 at 18:10
    allanallen

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    Post #16
    dangti6 wrote:
    bigbadbowen wrote:
    Nylock


    *Nyloc Thumbs up


    Plastic holder on'er thingy Thumbs up LOL

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    Posted 7th Mar 2014 at 18:12
    pugheaven

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    Post #17
    I assumed he was referring to the 13mm bolt that holds the arb end plates to the trailing arm Dunno
    Posted 8th Mar 2014 at 15:01
    oldbrownshoe

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    Post #18
    Drill out
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZhYRMeNdgbU
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rlebZNXxcXU

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    Posted 8th Mar 2014 at 15:13
    tony1991

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    Post #19
    Yes it was the plastic cap to keep the crap out. Still finding my way around the car so sound abit stupid sometimes. It was welded around the head I managed to drill all the weld off but the bolt was so tight I eventually got it out
    Posted 8th Mar 2014 at 19:10
    stan_306gti6 Forum Admin

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    Post #20
    aaron6 wrote:
    Tbh it'll be fine. I got all round there with a mig welder and had no issues.


    There is your culprit Tony - he's even admitted it. LOL

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    Posted 9th Mar 2014 at 08:04

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