displaying posts 26 to 50 of 123

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Author Subject: Project 6' (Ph1 Cossack)
gretsch-drummer

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Post #26
A quick mock up:


Mik- bought a couple cans of bilt hamber UB. Looks good stuff on reviews.

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Ph1 Cossack 6'
Posted 21st Jan 2014 at 14:46
gretsch-drummer

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Post #27
So bought the unions and made the caliper brake lines, ordered ARB seals (here on Weds) and satin blacked the boot floor ready for the BH underseal:



Hopefully get it fitted, bled and back on its wheels at the weekend.

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Ph1 Cossack 6'
Posted 27th Jan 2014 at 22:57
mik

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Post #28
Looking good.

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Cherry Rallye SOLD

Posted 28th Jan 2014 at 23:00
gretsch-drummer

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Post #29
Bilt Hamber UB waxing DONE. Still got enough in the can to do another good coat.



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Ph1 Cossack 6'
Posted 29th Jan 2014 at 14:44
mcvite

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Post #30
Looking very nice indeed,well done Thumbs up

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http://s1160.photobucket.com/albums/q486/mcvite/
Posted 29th Jan 2014 at 16:20
gretsch-drummer

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Post #31
Just finished spraying the 'clones. Only used rattle cans but given 4 coats of lacquer so can flat and polish then in about a weeks time;






Still waiting on slow ass peugeot to get my ARB seals in. Needing to get it rolling by next weekend, sister needs something out the back of the garage.

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Ph1 Cossack 6'
Posted 2nd Feb 2014 at 15:14
mik

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Post #32
Rattle canning can work really well given proper preparation - I did my C5 alloys in Iron Grey and they look ace. Probably costs about the same to just get them done professionally by the time I'd bought all the paint, lacquer, wet and dry paper, spent hours on them etc.

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Cherry Rallye SOLD

Posted 9th Feb 2014 at 14:13
gretsch-drummer

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Post #33
Got the beam bolted on with help from the ol' man then fitted all the brakes etc. Just need to bleed them then fit exhaust and the rears done:







But I have one question. Is the load comp' bracket at the right angle or does it need to be shifted round?:

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Ph1 Cossack 6'
Posted 9th Feb 2014 at 17:16
gretsch-drummer

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Post #34
Had a free few hours today so managed to do a bit:



All bled up and ready to see the ground again after I fit the bumpers next weekend.

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Ph1 Cossack 6'
Posted 9th Mar 2014 at 16:19
RetroPug

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Post #35
Lovely, want to do a similar thing to the underside of mine over summer!

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61k miles Ph.1 Diablo '6 Project Thread
Posted 9th Mar 2014 at 16:56
gretsch-drummer

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Post #36
Spent a good few hours on her today, pretty much ready for the road. Just need those stupid 'fir tree' clips for the wheel arches:




(just couldn't get the bumper to move up anymore on that corner, only thing bugging me)



So, just need to get a door sprayed up and fitted then stick the badges on then she's pretty tidy.

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Ph1 Cossack 6'
Posted 16th Mar 2014 at 18:30
gretsch-drummer

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Post #37
Insured and taxed.....Ready for the road (tomorrow).

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Ph1 Cossack 6'
Posted 31st Mar 2014 at 14:53
walker_texasranger

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Post #38
Car looks good, I bet you can't wait to take it out again!

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Almost standard 1999 Bianca Rallye
Hilux InvincibleX daily

306 No.13 Doh

Carp and specialist Anglers Click here
Posted 31st Mar 2014 at 16:20
gretsch-drummer

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Post #39
I just hope the bloody thing starts and runs ok.

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Ph1 Cossack 6'
Posted 31st Mar 2014 at 20:00
mik

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Post #40
Thats a great job well done. I know from experience that it is very time consuming. A nice P1 is worth fixing up.

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Cherry Rallye SOLD

Posted 31st Mar 2014 at 21:42
gretsch-drummer

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Post #41
Well a few cranks without entering the code to get oil pumped around and she fired straight up and bang on perfect idle:





Just taking her down to a mates garage to get brakes properly bled on Thursday so gives me another day on sorting other bits tmorrow.

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Ph1 Cossack 6'
Posted 1st Apr 2014 at 16:21
Lecktorious

aka G.

Location: Edinburgh

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Post #42
Looks great! Keep the updates coming too Thumbs up

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'98 Nile Blue 306 GTi 6
Posted 1st Apr 2014 at 17:27
gretsch-drummer

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Post #43
Did a bit of work on the drivers seat. Had to stitch up a hole and fill another hole with seat foam and patch it under with some alcantara. Going to get get sis to stitch the patch in properly to get rid of the white edge. Then went over with some 'colour wax', came up great after a few goes and buffing it up:







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Ph1 Cossack 6'
Posted 3rd Apr 2014 at 20:19
gretsch-drummer

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Post #44
Fitted the rear badges:



Still on the look out for 2 more '6' badges. Also bought/ordered a new clutch cable from Peugeot for £50 (was expecting it to be about £~80 tbh) So will be fitting that next weekend.

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Ph1 Cossack 6'
Posted 5th Apr 2014 at 14:20
gretsch-drummer

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Post #45
Been driving around this weekend and it's been spot on. Then went to turn the car around to realign the pass' door, then the rev counter/oil gauge is playing silly buggers i.e not working.

Went for another drive afterwards and the oil gauge and rev worked until I drove off the drive way. When back home I tried turning the ignition on to see if the oil gauge level would work but it was dead.

Then just now after leaving the car for a few hours I turned the ignition on and the oil level needle worked for a second before playing dead again.

So shall I have a look at the wiring behind the bumper and instrument cluster?

Is there an easier way to inspect the wiring down by the radiator without taking the bumper off?

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Ph1 Cossack 6'
Posted 13th Apr 2014 at 22:08
RetroPug

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Post #46
gretsch-drummer wrote:
Is there an easier way to inspect the wiring down by the radiator without taking the bumper off?


Got almost exactly the same problem with my rev counter.

If you jack the front of the car up you can see it running along the bottom of the radiator, however the bit that often seems to be damaged having read around forums is the bit near the airbox where it plugs into another loom through the chassis. The plugs are pretty much inaccessible without removing the airbox, at least if you want a proper look around.
Unfortunately the captive nut at the top of the airbox is 99% likely to be broken inside the chassis, which makes it a right pain to remove.

See the final picture of post 10:
http://www.306gti6.com/forum/showthread.php?id=158618
The filter sits pretty much precisely where the airbox did, you can see the two plugs and the loom going towards the bottom of the rad on the other side of the filter.

As well as a break in the loom, it could just be that one of these plugs is loose/has water in it, so try reconnecting them and cleaning them out etc.
Another easy thing to try would be removing your instrument cluster and re-plugging it all back in to check that it isn't a loose connection on the back of those.

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61k miles Ph.1 Diablo '6 Project Thread
Posted 14th Apr 2014 at 10:39
gretsch-drummer

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Post #47
Cheers Retro'. And byyyyy ek' it's tight in there (oo-eeerrr). Had a look while changing air filter and you can't really see bugger all of the loom with the bumper and air box in the way.

Also had a go at removing the cluster but couldn't quite maneuver out enough to unplug it. (sigh) But might have a go at cleaning the earth points up as it does seem to be a on/off problem.

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Ph1 Cossack 6'
Posted 14th Apr 2014 at 12:21
RetroPug

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Post #48
I'm not sure taking the bumper off would help much from memory as it is behind the rad.
Yeah with the airbox in the way there's really not a lot of room to get your hands around there.

The cluster is really tightly put in, you can unplug it without actually fully removing it but it's a pain. I couldn't get mine out properly, so sort of tilted it forwards and just about squeezed my hands behind it.

I tried cleaning earths too...my oil level works but when the car is started and it switches to pressure it is totally dead...my rev counter reads probably 1/4 of the real revs...and is 0 at idle. Weird.

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61k miles Ph.1 Diablo '6 Project Thread
Posted 14th Apr 2014 at 18:57
gretsch-drummer

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Post #49
Hmmmmmmm strange that it worked absolutely bang on for 2 week after it being in storage for 4months and now playing up...

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Ph1 Cossack 6'
Posted 14th Apr 2014 at 19:35
mik

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Post #50
For the fir tree clips for the arch liners, they can be a ballache to fit and remove, and the new ones from the dealer are no exception. So on the advice of someone on here I got some slightly different ones from ebay that are easy to fit and then have a central but that you push home to tighten them. Then to remove there is a slot for a screwdriver to unscrew the central bit, so after unscrewing you can pull the clip out again if needed. Can't remember where I got them but I just did a search looking for a clip roughly the same dimensions as the factory fir tree clips, and got a pack of 30.

Hope you get the electrical gremlin sorted.

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Cherry Rallye SOLD

Posted 14th Apr 2014 at 23:25

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