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Author Subject: help broke down engine won't rev
mike rallye

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Post #1
Hi guys i broke down this morning on way to castle combe.basically stopped at round about ,then set of again .changed to second gears and got to about 6000rpm and basically lost throttle and car died.i can start the car but when i touch throttle pedal the car just dies. Any ideas to what i should be looking for or what it could be ?

Cheers mike
Posted 14th Sep 2013 at 06:14
bigbadbowen

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Location: Winchester

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Post #2
Throttle position switch unplugged ?
Posted 14th Sep 2013 at 06:50
mike rallye

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Post #3
No all plugged in
Posted 14th Sep 2013 at 06:55
coskev

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Location: Oswestry

Registered: 01 Nov 2009

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Post #4
Map sensor

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Posted 14th Sep 2013 at 07:01
gti6girl

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Location: Dartford

Registered: 19 Feb 2007

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Post #5
Got the same problem on the 205. Idles fine but dies as soon as you blip the throttle

Get a new throttle position switch
Posted 14th Sep 2013 at 07:27
mike rallye

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Post #6
Is that the yellow plug one ,is there any way to test it ?
Could it be timing issue or even a chance it spun a shell ? As it won't even run now
Posted 14th Sep 2013 at 08:20
bigbadbowen

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Post #7
Would still run if spun a shell ? Unplug the plug under the throttle bodie ? And try and start it?
Posted 14th Sep 2013 at 08:25
north wales pug

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Location: rhyl

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Post #8
Hi it sounds like your map sensor.. yippekayay had same problem last month on rallye

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Posted 14th Sep 2013 at 08:37
allanallen

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Post #9
The yellow sensor is the throttle body heater so it's not that. Shells knock like f**k when they go.
Is the fuel pump running?

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Posted 14th Sep 2013 at 08:37
mike rallye

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Post #10
Just tryed that ,and wouldn't start .
Posted 14th Sep 2013 at 08:38
mattgti6phase2

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Post #11
It'll run without the TPS plugged in so I doubt it's that. When thy fail its just very hesitant unless the throttle is wide open.

I'd say ICV when they completely fail they stay in the same position and do not allow air to pass by it so literally it'll start and then die immediately. One way around this is use your throttle adjuster pin to open the throttle slightly so the car can at least draw air to allow it to idle.

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Posted 14th Sep 2013 at 10:52
mike rallye

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Post #12
Right update if i disconnect the ecu and then plug it back in it work fine until 6000rpm,then the problem is back but i have just noticed there is oil on one the pins in the plug
Posted 14th Sep 2013 at 11:24
mike rallye

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Post #13
I have just re checked the timing and the exhaust cam and bottom pulley line up ,but the inlet cam is about half a tooth to a tooth out ,how do i pin the inlet cam with out damaging it ?
Posted 14th Sep 2013 at 11:51
ryangti6

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Post #14
Pin the bottom pulley and exhaust cam and as you release the belt tension make sure you are holding the inlet cam very tightly so it can't move then turn it to line back up, pin it up and refit the belt.

It is very important that you do not let it move when you release the belt tension because it will want to turn and you will hit the open exhaust valves. Fingers crossed you havnt but a tooth out on these engines will usually have caused damage already.

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Posted 14th Sep 2013 at 13:59
bigbadbowen

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Post #15
How did you manage that then ? Thought you timed up properly when cam belt was changed ?
Posted 14th Sep 2013 at 14:09
allanallen

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Post #16
It sounds like you need your tools confiscating to me......... Razz

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Posted 14th Sep 2013 at 14:17
mike rallye

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Post #17
Not sure how i managed it to be honest, as I timed it up ok and even drove round init yesterday. So i have retimmed it up again, but I have noticed when I slacken the camshaft bolts on the inlet one is so tight as in almost sezied to try and rotate it clockwise , it take a lot of force but does not rotate back at all.could this be the problem? it runs atm but could something be damaged?
Posted 14th Sep 2013 at 16:06
rich306

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Post #18
A lot of compression I'd assume if its hard to turn

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Posted 14th Sep 2013 at 16:42
mike rallye

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Post #19
Explain rich ? I understand there be some compression there, but would of been able to still turn out easily to an extent?

I got to the point were it was better cc than this morning, but now don't sure what to do. Get someone to look at it or trade it in
Posted 14th Sep 2013 at 17:17
ryangti6

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Post #20
Do you mean the pulley is hard to turn on the camshaft or the camshaft itself?

If you mean the pulley is tight probably best to remove and put a bit of grease so it can move in the slotted area nicely. If It's too tight it won't move when you tension the belt and this uneven tension is what will result in 1 cam being slightly out after a few rotations.

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Posted 14th Sep 2013 at 18:18
mike rallye

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Post #21
Yeah the camshaft pulley I mean, so this is what could be happening then and is causing the running problems and cant rev past 6000rpm then?
Posted 14th Sep 2013 at 18:32
jord294

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Post #22
Whenever I do a cambelt I always give a little spray of wd40 to make sure the cam pulleys are nice and free for adjustment

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Posted 14th Sep 2013 at 18:50
stan_306gti6 Forum Admin

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Post #23
jord294 wrote:
Whenever I do a cambelt I always give a little spray of wd40 to make sure the cam pulleys are nice and free for adjustment


This is so important, can lead to mis-timing if the cams aren't independent of the pulleys when doing a belt. Sad

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Posted 14th Sep 2013 at 19:12
mike rallye

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Post #24
So do I just remove the 18m bolt then once it all timmed up then? to free off the pulley , as I assume it wont slip as it will be still timmed up
Posted 14th Sep 2013 at 19:39
bigbadbowen

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Post #25
Just take the pulley off the cam will only turn little ? I take it off take it apart and give it a quick sand to get it moving freely ? When you put it back on tighten it up a little then re time the cam it should only need moving a little not a whole turn
Posted 14th Sep 2013 at 20:20

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