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Author Subject: Tappety Valve Dropped
Eddleston

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Location: Leatherhead

Registered: 31 Jul 2012

Posts: 329

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Post #1
OK everyone, my tapper became a non-tapper last week, in the wrong way.
So now it's fix-it-o'clock. Yes

I've never taken an engine out before so this could be fun. Dunno

Took all the battery gubbins off, pulled one or two connectory things off but I don't really know what the best way to go about all this is. No

Does anyone have a list of bits I should attack? Just so I have some kind of order to work through. Please.

And I read one thread where someone was asking about Head Removal, the response was to support the engine. Is that just a jack under the sump? surely not...

Any help very welcome! Thumbs up

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Posted 1st Aug 2013 at 10:52
rikky 🦔

Location: cheshire

Registered: 28 Feb 2004

Posts: 26,795

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Post #2
unplug main bits like ecu, battery, get the battery and box out the way. get the loom so it's kept on the engine for now but just disconnected from the engine bay. make sure you crack the hubnuts off before jacking it up or anything with foot on brakes too. get under the cat with a long extension bar and a decent ring spanner for the downpipe bolts

drain oils, shafts out, crack mounts off a touch, disconnect water and fuel lines etc, clutch cable, drain anything you can. you can get the engine out without taking the front end off but for the time it takes i've always took the bumper and slam panel out with the radiator. some say do some say don't bother, your call

make sure you have decent tools and proper hubnut removal tools etc

if you're seriously unsure what stuff does then take some pics of it all together before disconnecting anything

i'd put the car on stands by the sills and i am assuming you've got a proper engine crane so a block of wood under the sump *technically* should not be needed, but it's always handy for moving it about when you don't have a load leveller on your crane

order isn't important other than leaving mounts till last LOL but i always crack hubnuts very very first now

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Posted 1st Aug 2013 at 11:09
welshpug!

Capt Pedantic

Location: Bigend, Wales.

Registered: 27 Mar 2007

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Post #3
I tend to do it as rikky said, whip the front bumper and front panel off, engine out in one lump, disconnect heater hoses and rad hoses, unbolt pas pump, a-c depends if its still charged or not.

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Posted 1st Aug 2013 at 11:11
darkgti6

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Location: Bracknell

Registered: 07 Jun 2008

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Post #4
Disconnect the exhaust at the cat just leave the manifold on. Also remember your gear linkage disconnect those.

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Posted 1st Aug 2013 at 11:20
rikky 🦔

Location: cheshire

Registered: 28 Feb 2004

Posts: 26,795

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Post #5
will take you about 6hrs the first time and then about an hour the next time, with a 50minute pizza and tea break

________________________________________

306 rallye reproduction decals (full sets/individual decals) | 306 b-pillar textured vinyl weatherstrips
306 slam panel esso stickers | 306 yellow / orange / pension fund red side door badges
gti6 inlet manifold badges | 306 rear boot badges (p2/p3)
winner of Extraction of toys from prams with outstanding vigour award 2009 [source: gti6 owners club]
Posted 1st Aug 2013 at 11:22
tvrfan007

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Registered: 29 May 2005

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Post #6
rikky wrote:
but i always crack hubnuts very very first now


This, except Snap on impact gun FTMFEW

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Posted 1st Aug 2013 at 12:09
stan_306gti6 Forum Admin

Location: Kent

Registered: 18 Jan 2004

Posts: 21,768

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Post #7
Unplug the loom from the front left chassis leg and leave it all plugged in to everything on the engine, makes life a lot easier. Yes

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Posted 1st Aug 2013 at 12:17
rikky 🦔

Location: cheshire

Registered: 28 Feb 2004

Posts: 26,795

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Post #8
rikky wrote:
get the loom so it's kept on the engine for now but just disconnected from the engine bay


Unsure LOL keep up

________________________________________

306 rallye reproduction decals (full sets/individual decals) | 306 b-pillar textured vinyl weatherstrips
306 slam panel esso stickers | 306 yellow / orange / pension fund red side door badges
gti6 inlet manifold badges | 306 rear boot badges (p2/p3)
winner of Extraction of toys from prams with outstanding vigour award 2009 [source: gti6 owners club]
Posted 1st Aug 2013 at 12:24
stan_306gti6 Forum Admin

Location: Kent

Registered: 18 Jan 2004

Posts: 21,768

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Post #9
I know you'd already mentioned it, but I felt for someone who had never carried out this procedure before, your explanation was a bit vague. LOL

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"Supercharged - 454.1bhp/317.5lb/ft"
Peugeot 306 GTi-6
2000 (X), Moonstone Love
Posted 1st Aug 2013 at 13:08
Eddleston

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Location: Leatherhead

Registered: 31 Jul 2012

Posts: 329

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Post #10
Thank you lads

Rikky, you're awesome. Just wondering round asking neighbors for a 35mm socket now.
Should all be out tomorrow.

Drained the sump, had about 5 secs of good clean coolant lol. Think this engine is dead.reeaallyy dead.

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Posted 1st Aug 2013 at 18:25
Eddleston

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Location: Leatherhead

Registered: 31 Jul 2012

Posts: 329

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Post #11
OK, this may well be the issue...


So after a bit time away and a hell of a lot of faffing...




But that's all OK.

Exhaust won't undo now, I assume I need to undo the 2 bits at the bottom of the fancy wiggly bit before it goes to the cat. The bolts just spin though, can't undo em Thumbs down

And also, the Haynes manual isn't all that helpful for the engine mounts. It just says take them off. LOL


This is my current problem, how does the rubber bit (in the centre) come out?

and also, how on earth do I release the fuel pressure? Dunno

then finally I assume the mounts on the gearbox side just undo and and I'm away then on that side.

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Posted 15th Aug 2013 at 16:57
darkgti6

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Post #12
Get a big socket on the hex part at tbe top. A hub nut socket will do. 35mm or something it is to crack it then just unscrew

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Posted 15th Aug 2013 at 17:08
darkgti6

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Post #13
On the two cat bolts you will need to reach up behind and on top with another spanner to hold it whilst you undo the nut at the bottom. Only small about 8 or 10mm IIRC. You'll need to get right under the car so you can reach them easily.

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Posted 15th Aug 2013 at 17:11
darkgti6

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Post #14
Fuel pressure I just undo the hose leading to the fuel rail and wiggle it and ease off. Have some tissue under it to soak up any spilt fuel. Do it slowly and smoothly. You'll sense the pressure there that way. Its not a massive amount but just be careful about it squirting towards your face so use your common sense and safety glasses.

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Posted 15th Aug 2013 at 17:23
darkgti6

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Post #15
The lower engine mount is fine to remove whenever. As for the other two make sure you have the weight of the engine supported on a hoist or engine crane. You've removed the drive shafts? Disconnected gear linkage and loom etc?

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Black T'99 Gti - may she rest in peace - written off in a shunt on the A329m
Posted 15th Aug 2013 at 17:25
Eddleston

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Registered: 31 Jul 2012

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Post #16
darkgti6 wrote:
The lower engine mount is fine to remove whenever. As for the other two make sure you have the weight of the engine supported on a hoist or engine crane. You've removed the drive shafts? Disconnected gear linkage and loom etc?


Thank you so much,

Yep literally everything ready to go bar this bloody exhaust! we're getting there, just having a big old fight with it now Thumbs up

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the zombie apocalypse started long ago, only no-one realised most can talk and drive
Posted 15th Aug 2013 at 17:46
darkgti6

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Post #17
Just take your time. If its never been disturbed it will be seized I expect. Its subjected to a lot of heat and zero lubrication. Give the thread where it will be removed a good scrub with a wire brush to remove any debris and soak it with plus gas or another penetrating oil and work it undone and back up a few times to allow the oil to get down the thread then undo all the way applying more penetrating oil as necessary.

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Posted 15th Aug 2013 at 17:53
stan_306gti6 Forum Admin

Location: Kent

Registered: 18 Jan 2004

Posts: 21,768

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Post #18
Yes, as darkgti6 says, get 10mm spanner on the bolt head above and then undo the nuts below with a socket and ratchet on the downpipe joint. Yes

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Posted 15th Aug 2013 at 19:36
dangti6

aka JKshooter

Location: Taunton, Somerset

Registered: 15 Jun 2006

Posts: 10,305

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Post #19
Your engine now has a handy inspection panel. I'd put a bit of tape over if I were you. You don't want crap getting in there.

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  • Posted 15th Aug 2013 at 19:50
    Eddleston

    Regular

    Location: Leatherhead

    Registered: 31 Jul 2012

    Posts: 329

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    Post #20
    stan_306gti6 wrote:
    Yes, as darkgti6 says, get 10mm spanner on the bolt head above and then undo the nuts below with a socket and ratchet on the downpipe joint. Yes


    I can't believe how much of a problem a f**king exhaust nut is causing me. Angry
    The 10mm spanner won't fit on the top nut on either side. Think a nice sleep will sort me out.

    Also, the driver's side engine mount has a bloody 16mm nut! WHY? no-one sells a bloody deep 16mm socket round me.







    Woosaa Roll eyes

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    the zombie apocalypse started long ago, only no-one realised most can talk and drive
    Posted 15th Aug 2013 at 22:50
    scotzman

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    Post #21
    Gotta love Peugeot and there weird bolt/nut sizes.

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    Posted 15th Aug 2013 at 23:00
    darkgti6

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    Post #22
    Eddleston wrote:

    I can't believe how much of a problem a f**king exhaust nut is causing me. Angry
    The 10mm spanner won't fit on the top nut on either side. Think a nice sleep will sort me out.

    Also, the driver's side engine mount has a bloody 16mm nut! WHY? no-one sells a bloody deep 16mm socket round me.


    Try a spark plug socketWink and if you cant get a 10mm spanner on try 11mm. SimplesThumbs up

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    Posted 15th Aug 2013 at 23:25
    Eddleston

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    Location: Leatherhead

    Registered: 31 Jul 2012

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    Post #23
    11 just spins, 10 just spins now. going to be cutting the damn things off when i get home next. Yes

    Turns out one of my mates has an entire set of odd sized deep sockets so that's lucky!

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    the zombie apocalypse started long ago, only no-one realised most can talk and drive
    Posted 19th Aug 2013 at 16:47
    welshpug!

    Capt Pedantic

    Location: Bigend, Wales.

    Registered: 27 Mar 2007

    Posts: 25,838

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    Post #24
    you want a slim 3/8 or a 1/4 drive socket, half inch are too chunky to get on them.

    that's rather more than a dropped valve, its a thrown rod LOL

    ________________________________________

    need a part number? get on here - http://public.servicebox.peugeot.com

    Bring on the Trumpets.

    Posted 19th Aug 2013 at 16:58
    ryangti6

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    Post #25
    I find you are usually better off with a little 3/8 10mm socket on top as the bolt head is recessed it can be hard to get a spanner on it tidy sometimes.

    If you remove the mounts and drop the engine down on the crane a bit you will have much better access to undo them if they aren't too rounded or cut straight through them if you need to.

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    Ryan
    Posted 19th Aug 2013 at 17:03

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