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Author Subject: Difficulty starting car
RetroPug

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Post #26
Bump: Assuming I need to flush coolant to do it? Or is it even simpler than that?

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61k miles Ph.1 Diablo '6 Project Thread
Posted 14th Aug 2013 at 20:34
stan_306gti6 Forum Admin

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Post #27
Yes, that is the correct part number. Yes

As for changing it, just unscrew and replace, it's that simple.
You *may* need to bleed the cooling system after doing this, but you may get away with not doing this.

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"Supercharged - 454.1bhp/317.5lb/ft"
Peugeot 306 GTi-6
2000 (X), Moonstone Love
Posted 14th Aug 2013 at 22:26
RetroPug

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Post #28
Perfect, thank you. Picking it up on the way home and doing it at the weekend.

I will bleed the cooling system as I'm not 100% sure the garage who last had the car did it properly. Is it okay to bleed by topping up with different coolant to what's in there already? (No idea what that is), or do I need to flush and re-fill? Radiator is brand new, couple of month-old nissens so won't be gunked up etc. and coolant already in there is nearly new.

Thanks for all the help so far!

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61k miles Ph.1 Diablo '6 Project Thread
Posted 15th Aug 2013 at 09:03
scotzman

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Post #29
If you do it while the system is cold and not pressurised you will loose very little coolant.

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'90 1.6 205 GTi, '98 306 GTi-6
Posted 15th Aug 2013 at 09:08
RetroPug

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Post #30
Okay. Smile

I'm going to bleed the system anyway though as I'm not sure it's been done properly as is. Obviously that involves topping up with more coolant, I'm just checking that I shouldn't get issues mixing different coolants...wouldn't have thought so.

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61k miles Ph.1 Diablo '6 Project Thread
Posted 15th Aug 2013 at 10:28
RetroPug

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Post #31
Update:

After swapping sensors, the car started first time. Fingers crossed that it does the same in the morning.

However, when removing the sensor there was pressure built up in there. Is this a bad sign, like pressure being built up in the rad? The car has not been driven since yesterday morning. There are also some crusty stuff on the old sensor, It's dry and crusty, which I'd imagine is old, dried out crust from coolant, and not the "mayo" you associate with HG problems?

Thank you for the help so far.7

Picture of old CT sensor attached.

RetroPug has attached the following image:

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61k miles Ph.1 Diablo '6 Project Thread
Posted 18th Aug 2013 at 13:24
stan_306gti6 Forum Admin

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Post #32
Glad you managed to get it done successfully. Thumbs up

I suspect the slight pressure may be air still in the system as you suspected it hadn't been bled properly before. Now you have bled it properly, it should be ok. That sensor does look cruddy though, perhaps the whole system could benefit from a coolant flush, and get out any other bits of crud. Smile

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"Supercharged - 454.1bhp/317.5lb/ft"
Peugeot 306 GTi-6
2000 (X), Moonstone Love
Posted 18th Aug 2013 at 14:06
RetroPug

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Post #33
I have not yet bled it.

The coolant in it is brand new as it was replaced when the radiator was changed, but the previous owner used it as a summer-only car so it sat all winter every winter so congealed coolant is not much of a surprise...

Flushing is usually achieved by draining and then forcing water through with a hose?
I might do this next weekend and fill it all up properly, bleeding it and see whether or not I get pressure. Doing other service bits next weekend anyway!



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61k miles Ph.1 Diablo '6 Project Thread
Posted 18th Aug 2013 at 14:54
stan_306gti6 Forum Admin

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Post #34
Yeah, ideally whip the thermostat out after you've drained the rad and then force water through the entire cooling system including the rad and then remove the top hose from the rad and force water through the hose and through the block. Yes

This will clean it out well. Smile

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"Supercharged - 454.1bhp/317.5lb/ft"
Peugeot 306 GTi-6
2000 (X), Moonstone Love
Posted 18th Aug 2013 at 16:17
RetroPug

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Post #35
Thank you!

Yeah I'll do this next weekend.

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61k miles Ph.1 Diablo '6 Project Thread
Posted 18th Aug 2013 at 17:36
RetroPug

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Post #36
What sort of coolant mixture do people normally use?
Follow instructions on coolant?
Pure coolant, a mixture of coolant and de-ionised water?

To fill up and properly bleed a full system I'm looking at around 7L of fluid from memory?

At work so I don't have time to browse the forum sorry! Wanting to buy coolant on the way home.

Thank you!

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61k miles Ph.1 Diablo '6 Project Thread
Posted 23rd Aug 2013 at 08:36
rikky 🦔

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Post #37
coolant is designed to be mixed with water, and won't provide the right efficiency using it in undiluted form

i've always used a 50/50 mix for everything

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Posted 23rd Aug 2013 at 08:42
RetroPug

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Post #38
Thumbs up Thanks mate

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61k miles Ph.1 Diablo '6 Project Thread
Posted 24th Aug 2013 at 09:01
stan_306gti6 Forum Admin

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Post #39
It's around 6 litres in all I believe, I normally buy 5 litres of pure coolant and use around 3 litres, then use water for the rest. Thumbs up

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"Supercharged - 454.1bhp/317.5lb/ft"
Peugeot 306 GTi-6
2000 (X), Moonstone Love
Posted 24th Aug 2013 at 10:20
welshpug!

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Post #40
Its 7.6 litres, so Stan's coolant mix is a bit weak.

Check the bottle however, as they always give percentages to mix for specific minimum temperatures.

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Posted 24th Aug 2013 at 10:40
stan_306gti6 Forum Admin

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Post #41
welshpug! wrote:
Its 7.6 litres, so Stan's coolant mix is a bit weak.

Check the bottle however, as they always give percentages to mix for specific minimum temperatures.


Yeah I guess, although my car doesn't get used in the winter and does get stored in a warm environment. Plus it gets coolant changes very frequently when it is being used. Yes

I guess as an everyday car, used all year round you would need a stronger coolant mix to be on the safe side. Smile

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"Supercharged - 454.1bhp/317.5lb/ft"
Peugeot 306 GTi-6
2000 (X), Moonstone Love
Posted 24th Aug 2013 at 10:43
welshpug!

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Post #42
you need to use a stronger mix in the summer to prevent corrosion Thumbs up

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need a part number? get on here - http://public.servicebox.peugeot.com

Bring on the Trumpets.

Posted 24th Aug 2013 at 10:49
stan_306gti6 Forum Admin

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Post #43
No corrosion here thanks, I keep the system in perfect condition, as I say I change the coolant extremely often. Yes

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"Supercharged - 454.1bhp/317.5lb/ft"
Peugeot 306 GTi-6
2000 (X), Moonstone Love
Posted 24th Aug 2013 at 11:04
RetroPug

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Post #44
Yeah I've had a look at the bottle, got 5L of coolant and 5L of de-ionised (they call it de-mineralised here) water, so I'm safe.

Started doing everything but I've got to pop out now unexpectedly so I guess I'll return to it later.

Thanks everyone.

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61k miles Ph.1 Diablo '6 Project Thread
Posted 24th Aug 2013 at 11:14
RetroPug

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Post #45
Does the thermostat slide straight out? I've removed the plastic 90deg elbow and all of the bolts & bleed screw (a lot of pressure built up in there even after rad. pressure was released).

I've unplugged the sensors but not removed them, it's currently chucking it down with rain so I will go and continue trying to get it out if/when it clears. If it won't come out I guess I'll try removing sensors but I'm not sure this is necessary? Not that it is difficult anyway.

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61k miles Ph.1 Diablo '6 Project Thread
Posted 25th Aug 2013 at 13:17
welshpug!

Capt Pedantic

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Post #46
You dont touch the bolts or sensors, only the plastic elbow.

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need a part number? get on here - http://public.servicebox.peugeot.com

Bring on the Trumpets.

Posted 25th Aug 2013 at 13:29
RetroPug

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Post #47
I'm trying to be able to flush water through the block. The thermostat slides out without removing the housing?
Still chucking it down so will continue trying a bit later.

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61k miles Ph.1 Diablo '6 Project Thread
Posted 25th Aug 2013 at 13:55
welshpug!

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Post #48
Yup, probablt stuck in the rubber seal, give it a good yank.

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need a part number? get on here - http://public.servicebox.peugeot.com

Bring on the Trumpets.

Posted 25th Aug 2013 at 14:05
RetroPug

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Post #49
I've got a bit of a history of yanking on things that should come straight ou and breaking them so just wanted to be 100% sure!

Your help is very much appreciated, thank you!

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61k miles Ph.1 Diablo '6 Project Thread
Posted 25th Aug 2013 at 14:16
RetroPug

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Post #50
Right...
followed the guide in the FAQ to the letter.

Made a header tank, no coolant escaping, opened the three bleed points...
filled up, coolant came out of them in the right order and I closed them.

I then started the car, let it get up to temperature, revved the engine a little bit occasionally and got bubbles coming through.

Car got up past 90deg. on the gauge with no problems, still getting the odd bubble coming out, particularly when I revved a bit by hand.

It got to the point where no bubbles were really coming out anymore, I went round to check the temperature; around 105ish. The whole engine suddenly shook and the "header tank" burst off and coolant started pouring out of the radiator very quickly. I managed to use a towel and stick the radiator cap on.

I don't understand what happened or why? There were no bubbles when it was spewing out.
I also now have no idea whether or not the system is air-free. I started the car again after I cleaned everything up and it started and idled fine.

I will let it cool and check to see if the coolant is pressurised in 3-4 hours.

Anyone had this happen before? Did I do something wrong?

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61k miles Ph.1 Diablo '6 Project Thread
Posted 25th Aug 2013 at 17:47

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