displaying posts 26 to 38 of 38

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Author Subject: removing doors skins
pete_rallye

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Location: Yorkshire

Registered: 12 Dec 2002

Posts: 5,253

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Post #26
after a reet f**k about with the couriers these finally arrives this morning. Not had a chance to unpack them yet but will do weight comparisons etc soon!

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Oulton Park in a BTCC 306 vid 1
Oulton Park in a BTCC 306 vid 2
Lap of the 'ring
Posted 22nd Jun 2013 at 15:57
midlife

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Location: Colne, Lancashire

Registered: 13 Mar 2006

Posts: 7,544

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Post #27


Cool

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Get used to seeing the yellow one !!!MehMehMehMehMeh
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Posted 22nd Jun 2013 at 16:06
pete_rallye

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Location: Yorkshire

Registered: 12 Dec 2002

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Posted 22nd Jun 2013 at 21:44
pete_rallye

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Location: Yorkshire

Registered: 12 Dec 2002

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Post #29
OK, so removed my door skin (stop sniggering at the back). The outer skin is rolled over the inner frame and is actually reasonably straight forward t remove. This one tok me about 2 hours, but the second one will be done a lot quicker.

Heres pics-

1st up, a good selection of power tools!



and a good selection of h+s stuff



1st up I heated up and removed the sealant, wasn't really necessary to heat it up as it was quite a warm day anyway and it came off pretty easy





Then you can see how the outer skin is rolled over the frame



Then you prise up the rolled over edge-



I used a set of grips to keep rolling it back-





soon got bored of that so ran an angle grinder down the outer skin, above where the frame is, which allowed me to just pull off the remaining bit of metal-

[URL=http://s109.photobucket.com/user/pete_rallye/media/DSC04033.jpg.html]
[/URL]

I found the angle grinder method easiest so repeated it around the whole door. Just make sure you cut where there is a gap behind the outer skin, so you don't also cut the framework-







This bit just fell out once I cut around it-





and same again on the other side, be careful here as there thicker metal just below the outer skin which supports the hinges etc-



outer skin off-



side impact barrier removed-



then everything else!-





not got anything to bond it on with yet but looks like a good fit...

________________________________________

Oulton Park in a BTCC 306 vid 1
Oulton Park in a BTCC 306 vid 2
Lap of the 'ring
Posted 23rd Jun 2013 at 21:32
pete_rallye

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Location: Yorkshire

Registered: 12 Dec 2002

Posts: 5,253

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Post #30
weight wise, I removed 8.9kg of metal from the door, the fiberglass door skin weighs in at 2.9kg which means I will save 6kg/door, not masses for the amount of effort involved,but the second skin will be done a lot quicker, as is always the way.

Fordy also said he can do a full door in f/g which might wel be the way forward for maximum weight saving and a lot less hassle!

________________________________________

Oulton Park in a BTCC 306 vid 1
Oulton Park in a BTCC 306 vid 2
Lap of the 'ring
Posted 23rd Jun 2013 at 21:33
blandy

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Location: Bucks

Registered: 25 Feb 2007

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Post #31
Looking good how much did the doors set you back? And how much weight do you think you've saved
Posted 23rd Jun 2013 at 21:32
pete_rallye

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Location: Yorkshire

Registered: 12 Dec 2002

Posts: 5,253

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Post #32
The door skins were £50 each, he also does full f/g doors. Nt sure yet about fixing the door handle, guess the mechanism will just be bonded in place.

In total I've probably saved about 12-15kg from each door with polycarb windows, getting rid of the window motor etc etc

There is a lot of weight in the hinge area as the metal is thicker so going to look at trimming that back, although I can't see there been more than half kilo at most. The hinges themselves are quite thick...

________________________________________

Oulton Park in a BTCC 306 vid 1
Oulton Park in a BTCC 306 vid 2
Lap of the 'ring
Posted 23rd Jun 2013 at 21:37
daveyboy

aka Jim Davey

Location: Southampton

Registered: 01 Oct 2007

Posts: 8,648

Status: Offline

Post #33
A carbon item will be approximately half the weight, why can't he do one of those?

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Posted 23rd Jun 2013 at 21:37
pete_rallye

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Location: Yorkshire

Registered: 12 Dec 2002

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Post #34
I agree about carbon in weight saving, but I don't really want to take a £500 bonnet or £300 door skin or something racing for the sake of a couple of kilos, if that! Rather stick with cheaper stuff then when you have the inevitable knock or bump its not a major cost.

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Oulton Park in a BTCC 306 vid 1
Oulton Park in a BTCC 306 vid 2
Lap of the 'ring
Posted 23rd Jun 2013 at 21:40
fordygti

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Location: Walpole St Andrew

Registered: 07 Dec 2009

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Post #35
We have done carbon before for a few small bits like bashes etc, but hant got an oven to harden it up,

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98 onyx black 306 Rallye
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58 black Volvo c30 sport
Posted 23rd Jun 2013 at 21:50
fordygti

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Location: Walpole St Andrew

Registered: 07 Dec 2009

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Post #36
Thought fibre worx were doing carbon panels?

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98 onyx black 306 Rallye
53 Nissan Primastar silver (work horse)
58 black Volvo c30 sport
Posted 23rd Jun 2013 at 21:51
superchargedblack1997gti6

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Location: guildford

Registered: 15 Aug 2009

Posts: 2,376

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Post #37
They are. but he has a backlog of orders to complete first.

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Posted 24th Jun 2013 at 11:40
welshpug!

Capt Pedantic

Location: Bigend, Wales.

Registered: 27 Mar 2007

Posts: 25,839

Status: Offline

Post #38
there's some very nice detail on this Rallye build about how he went about making the doors work

http://106owners.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?209769-My-Yellow-106-Rallye-Race-car-build/page7

might have toi go back a page or two to see how it was mounted.

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Posted 24th Jun 2013 at 11:47

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