Longer drive shafts - Transmission Forum - Peugeot 306 GTi-6 & Rallye Owners Club

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Subject: Longer drive shafts

sam1

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Location: Coventry

Registered: 11 Dec 2011

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Post #1

I'm thinking of fabricating some wishbone extensions for more camber/caster for the 306 on the cheap. Initially for use for club events like autosolos.

The setup will include the fabricated wishbones and toe link extensions. Only thing I have not figured out is driveshafts. They need to be about 20-30mm longer. This should give about 2-2.5 degrees more camber and caster.

Are there driveshafts that can fit that are longer? Thought about shimming the inside of the outer shafts but there are not enough threads on the outside, could possibly get 5mm. Any other possibilities?

Thanks,

Sam

Posted 3rd Mar 2013 at 10:53

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jonnie205

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Post #2

406

Posted 3rd Mar 2013 at 12:50

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calibra306

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Post #3

Yep 406 with 29 toothed abs ring

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Posted 3rd Mar 2013 at 13:39

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sam1

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Location: Coventry

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Post #4

Thanks. I'll look into it.

Just seen this similar question from a few years back.
http://www.306gti6.com/forum/showthread.php?id=87716

Posted 3rd Mar 2013 at 13:46

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devere

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Location: Saxtead

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Post #5

Would it not be easier just to buy adjustable top mounts? I would imagine it would work out easier and cheaper in the long run? At least then you can adjust it to more than one setting rather than just a fixed amount of camber...

Posted 3rd Mar 2013 at 18:11

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sam1

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Post #6

That's probably easier but i dont have coil overs yet. This will just be a temporary solution until i can get rose jointed wishbones, top mounts etc. Plus i can get the extensions laser cut at uni as part of my final year project. Main cost will be the drive shafts.

Posted 3rd Mar 2013 at 18:28

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devere

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Post #7

I haven't used them together myself, but can you not use the adjustable top mounts with standard struts?

Posted 3rd Mar 2013 at 18:30

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sam1

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Post #8

Apparently you cant get enough adjustability because the standard sized springs catch on the arch. I have not checked it myself though.

Posted 3rd Mar 2013 at 18:33

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daveyboy

aka Jim Davey

Location: Southampton

Registered: 01 Oct 2007

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Post #9

That's correct, there's barely any clearance as it is, without moving them over. You need coil overs for sure if you want more camber with standard wishbones.

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Posted 3rd Mar 2013 at 18:43

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midlife

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Post #10

Ahh your looking at making some of these

I'll be interested in what driveshafts you use

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Posted 3rd Mar 2013 at 18:59

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sam1

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Post #11

Those look good! Geometrically doing the same thing but will be using steel plate and spacers to relocate the position of the standard ball joint further outwards and forwards, hopefully within the next two weeks. The plan is to have the rear hole of the ball joint pivoting on the front most hole on the wishbone then build the structure around that.

Will keep the thread updated.

Posted 3rd Mar 2013 at 19:26

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sam1

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Location: Coventry

Registered: 11 Dec 2011

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Post #12

Could anyone confirm if there is any difference in length between the 29 toothed BE driveshafts from the 406 coupe and saloons? Getting mixed info from the web.

Edit: Also can the number of ABS teeth be ignored if not running ABS; are they otherwise identical? Thanks.

Posted 3rd Mar 2013 at 21:00

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sam1

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Post #13

The 406 drive shafts worked perfectly for my setup. Managed to get away with using the standard tie rods although they are only holding by about 10mm of thread (not the safest). Pics below.

Posted 17th Mar 2013 at 21:12

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devere

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Post #14

How many degrees of camber is that....?

I hope you have plenty of tyres spare. Or at least a pot of tread to paint some more grooves on the inside of those ones each evening..

Posted 17th Mar 2013 at 21:16

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sam1

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Post #15

About 2.3 degrees of camber and 2.5 degrees of caster added. If tyre wear becomes a problem I might take them off as I only need them for an event once a month. Depending on time I also need to take everything apart and inspect because the car took a proper thrashing at an autosolo today.

Handling great by the way, although combined with several other tweaks.

Posted 17th Mar 2013 at 21:28

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devere

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Post #16

You have measured that at 2.3 degrees of camber I assume?

I only wonder because that looks like a HUGE amount. I run about 1.5 now, and I can safely say, yours look far more than a degree more than mine.

Just seems strange, because I don't use adjustable top mounts now. I use tubular wishbones to move the camber as well as the caster. And I haven't needed longer driveshafts for my 1.5 degrees of camber.

Although I am in the process of changing the shape of my bumper to accomdate the 6-7 degrees of caster!

Posted 17th Mar 2013 at 22:01

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phillipm

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Post #17

I run about that and yours looks WAY more than mine there. Not unless the tracking has a s**tload of toe.

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Posted 17th Mar 2013 at 22:09

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sam1

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Post #18

devere wrote:

That's interesting.

I could be well off on the camber measurements. I used a tape measure to extract suspension geometry from the car and did some calculations. Strangely when looking at the car from other angles, I did not realise how much it was until when I stepped out of the petrol station and took the pic. I'll be having an alignment check up soon so will get exact values.

phillipm wrote:

I run about that and yours looks WAY more than mine there. Not unless the tracking has a s**tload of toe.

Tracking is at about 1mm toe out.

Posted 17th Mar 2013 at 22:14

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devere

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Post #19

Has it not had an adverse effect on straight line grip? And pulling from a standing start? Half the tyre must not be touching the ground..?

At around 1.5 degrees my wheels don't look very much off vertical while just walking round the car.

I set mine up with a camber/caster gauge on the wheel along with swivel plates and the toe is set to pretty much parallel at the moment if I remember rightly.

Posted 17th Mar 2013 at 22:20

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sam1

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Location: Coventry

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Post #20

Are you running standard length steering arms with that caster?

Might look into getting a camber guage.

So far, not noticed a significant effect on straight line traction except while starting in 1st gear on a downhill gradient. But at the same time I've just fitted Toyo T1Rs coming from some really terrible budget tyres so that could be compensating.

Posted 17th Mar 2013 at 22:35

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devere

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Post #21

I have got rose jointed steering arms now. No idea on length difference to be fair. I think the standard ones would have just about reached but I couldn't say by how much, or easily etc.

I would say the adjustability of the rose jointed ends would give a huge amount more width if needed, compared to standard end, but they aren't adjusted out much at all to make up the correct toe angle. So they are near to there minimum width if that makes sense.

Posted 17th Mar 2013 at 22:43

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