displaying posts 51 to 69 of 69

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Author Subject: Unplugging the PAS sensor
swiftyboi006

Seasoned Pro

Location: Maidenhead

Registered: 12 Apr 2010

Posts: 2,110

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Post #51
If you unlplug the icv it will let in air so no

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Posted 21st Dec 2012 at 09:56
The Coolest

Junior User

Location: Tel Aviv

Registered: 15 Aug 2012

Posts: 64

Status: Offline

Post #52
I meant to remove the multi-plug connector, or is that still a bad idea?
Posted 21st Dec 2012 at 09:57
stan_306gti6 Forum Admin

Location: Kent

Registered: 18 Jan 2004

Posts: 21,768

Status: Offline

Post #53
If you unplug the connector on the ICV the engine will just rev up as the solenoid will have no power to be able to extend and block the hole to create the correct gap for idle.

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Posted 21st Dec 2012 at 11:39
coskev

Seasoned Pro

Location: Oswestry

Registered: 01 Nov 2009

Posts: 3,132

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Post #54
If you remove the power to the icv it will just stick at the position it was at when power removed, had this on my 309 I converted to run a gti6 lump.you will find it will idle ok cold, but as the engine warms up the idle will go sky high, mine was up near 4000rpmLOL

swiftyboi006 wrote:
If you unlplug the icv it will let in air so no


The electrical plug he's on about!LOL

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Posted 21st Dec 2012 at 11:44
The Coolest

Junior User

Location: Tel Aviv

Registered: 15 Aug 2012

Posts: 64

Status: Offline

Post #55
Alright, so disconnecting the ICV won't really achieve anything then. Thanks
Posted 21st Dec 2012 at 12:01
beez_neez_gt

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Location: @ de limit of adhesion !

Registered: 14 Oct 2008

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Post #56
Is there a test you can do with regards to the MAP sensor, something about removing it then start car up ??

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Posted 21st Dec 2012 at 12:19
The Coolest

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Location: Tel Aviv

Registered: 15 Aug 2012

Posts: 64

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Post #57
Going by the sensor test FAQ, it has to be connected while testing. I'm not sure how I can get to the contacts on the plug without destroying its cover or splicing the cable, which I don't want to do.
Posted 21st Dec 2012 at 13:14
coskev

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Location: Oswestry

Registered: 01 Nov 2009

Posts: 3,132

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Post #58
The Coolest wrote:
Going by the sensor test FAQ, it has to be connected while testing. I'm not sure how I can get to the contacts on the plug without destroying its cover or splicing the cable, which I don't want to do.


Can a pin be pushed down along side the wire into plug?Thumbs up

Has your meter not got sharp pointy ends on it?Just stick it into wire if soThumbs up

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Mac1 ZR R1 kit car build in progress.
Posted 21st Dec 2012 at 21:39
The Coolest

Junior User

Location: Tel Aviv

Registered: 15 Aug 2012

Posts: 64

Status: Offline

Post #59
I'll take another look tomorrow I hope and take a pic, silly weather the last couple of days...
The shroud around the plug/wires doesn't look like the ends of the probes can fit into it, but I'll give it another chance tomorrow.

What should the readings be? I found this video, not sure whether it shows a good or bad MAP response.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M_tk6WtXcO0
Posted 21st Dec 2012 at 21:45
The Coolest

Junior User

Location: Tel Aviv

Registered: 15 Aug 2012

Posts: 64

Status: Offline

Post #60
Here are the pics, as I said, the shroud doesn't allow access to the connectors :



Posted 22nd Dec 2012 at 14:14
coskev

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Location: Oswestry

Registered: 01 Nov 2009

Posts: 3,132

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Post #61
If your not happy sticking the sharp point on your meter through the wires you could stick a pin into each wire,then use your meter on the end of theseThumbs up

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Red GTB1756 powered Fabia VRS daily driver,LBSC Gti6 eater........

Mac1 ZR R1 kit car build in progress.
Posted 22nd Dec 2012 at 14:23
coskev

Seasoned Pro

Location: Oswestry

Registered: 01 Nov 2009

Posts: 3,132

Status: Offline

Post #62
The Coolest wrote:

What should the readings be? I found this video, not sure whether it shows a good or bad MAP response.


In the FAQ about testing the map sensor it states 0-1.5v fluctuating,so looking at that vid I would guess aslong as your voltage goes down when you increase the revs your map sensor is working?Dunno

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Mac1 ZR R1 kit car build in progress.
Posted 22nd Dec 2012 at 14:30
The Coolest

Junior User

Location: Tel Aviv

Registered: 15 Aug 2012

Posts: 64

Status: Offline

Post #63
So eventually I gave up and went to the garage. They replaced the ICV and MAP, no dice.
Then hooked it up to a diagnostic PC - all values from all of the sensors are ok.
The tech did mention that the ICV housing's seal is iffy, but he didn't have one on hand to replace to so he just turned it around, and that didn't really help.
So the current suspects are the seal and if that isn't it, then possibly the ECU
Posted 26th Dec 2012 at 15:11
The Coolest

Junior User

Location: Tel Aviv

Registered: 15 Aug 2012

Posts: 64

Status: Offline

Post #64
Well the car is back in my hands for further testing. The rubber seal on the ICV housing was replaced and a new ICV was installed. So far it seems to be running smoother, both in idle and while driving. Will be doing some driving around this weekend to see if it actually solves this problem.

The leak was indeed of coolant, from a cap on the rear of the engine, was fixed and refilled with new coolant, so nice job spotting it beez_neez_gt Smile

So I wanted to just say thanks to everyone for their help and their time helping out a complete noob :p
Posted 28th Dec 2012 at 12:27
stan_306gti6 Forum Admin

Location: Kent

Registered: 18 Jan 2004

Posts: 21,768

Status: Offline

Post #65
Glad to see you're getting somewhere with this - keep us informed how you get on. Thumbs up

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Peugeot 306 GTi-6
2000 (X), Moonstone Love
Posted 28th Dec 2012 at 14:56
bas_306gti

Regular

Location: Eindhoven

Registered: 06 Sep 2012

Posts: 108

Status: Offline

Post #66
bas_306gti wrote:
Sometimes the o-ring behind the ICV leaks air, causing the engine to cut out at idle.



Yes the o-ring behind the housing is a very common problem to cause the engine to cut out at idle or causing high revs at idle.
Posted 28th Dec 2012 at 23:05
The Coolest

Junior User

Location: Tel Aviv

Registered: 15 Aug 2012

Posts: 64

Status: Offline

Post #67
Could have been both a bad ICV and bad o-ring. Or maybe having the bad o-ring somehow finally "killed" the ICV? I only tried it once today, one cold start to drive out of the garage home and I didn't notice any irregular high revs, also when I came home with engine at temp I turned it off and started up again 2 minutes later, which used to cause it to cut out. It started and idled ok.
Tomorrow I'm going on a drive of about 20miles in each direction, going to a local french car club "Clean/Clay/Wax" meeting. So we'll see how it behaves then.
Posted 29th Dec 2012 at 00:10
The Coolest

Junior User

Location: Tel Aviv

Registered: 15 Aug 2012

Posts: 64

Status: Offline

Post #68
Well so far the car behaved alright. Plenty of warm starts and it seemed to run ok now. Going to see how well it goes this week.
On a side note. Got it washed, clayed and waxed today Big grin Also met the first, original owner of my car by a complete coincidence. Small world we live in.
Posted 29th Dec 2012 at 12:02
stan_306gti6 Forum Admin

Location: Kent

Registered: 18 Jan 2004

Posts: 21,768

Status: Offline

Post #69
Hopefully the issue is solved then with a bit of luck. Smile

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"Supercharged - 454.1bhp/317.5lb/ft"
Peugeot 306 GTi-6
2000 (X), Moonstone Love
Posted 29th Dec 2012 at 12:08

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