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Author Subject: max safe oil temp?
JWP EFi

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Post #1
as per title! i'm seeing nigh on 140 degrees when pushing it on the road, when i did my track day a few weeks back

by the third lap oil was almost of the scale whilst water temp was at 90 degrees, i have tried a spare set of clocks

and tested the sensor as well as flushing the system when i did the cam belt and water pump
Posted 27th Oct 2012 at 20:14
matt evans

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Post #2
Difficult one to say really. Considered opinion is it'll thin the oil down too much, pressure will drop and you'll wreck the engine.... however, my mate rich has done 8 trackdays on the same oil and spends lap after lap at the same type of oil temps and his never misses a beat. Oil he uses is a Vauxhall 10/40 semi synthetic and it sticks at 90c on the road, never rattles or clatters and starts ace from cold.

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Posted 27th Oct 2012 at 20:18
bigbadbowen

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Post #3
Oil cooler will help but it shouldn't get that hot on the road it will cook it sooner or later
Posted 27th Oct 2012 at 20:22
JWP EFi

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Post #4
matt evans wrote:
Difficult one to say really. Considered opinion is it'll thin the oil down too much, pressure will drop and you'll wreck the engine.... however, my mate rich has done 8 trackdays on the same oil and spends lap after lap at the same type of oil temps and his never misses a beat. Oil he uses is a Vauxhall 10/40 semi synthetic and it sticks at 90c on the road, never rattles or clatters and starts ace from cold.


wreck the engine, i'll go with that one! a couple a weeks ago i was out for a blast, when returning home on the motorway

i noticed smoke in my rear view mirror, i slowed down a bit to hear a misfire then the oil/stop light shortly after

i immediately switched it off and coasted to the hard shoulder, when i opened the bonnet, the dipstick was sticking out

and had blown all 5 litres off oil out everywhere, my mate came to the rescue with some oil, engine fired up

rattling its brains out, after a few miles she was silent and to this day runs sweet as a nut!

i am in the process of building a spare engine as this one is just shy of 170k and given whats just happened

probs wont be alive for too much longer, although the oil pressure is still perfect and i did a compression test

revealing 180, 165, 180, 180

my diagnosis is that because the oil has got so hot, it has pressurised the crank case hence blowing the dipstick
Posted 27th Oct 2012 at 20:29
daveyboy

aka Jim Davey

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Post #5
That's quite low, especially the 165 figure. In my book, anything over about 100 degrees is to be avoided, most oils really starts to loose performance fast above this temperature. You should really consider an oil cooler as essential kit on a fast road/track car.

________________________________________

R H Davey Welding Supplies. I sell new and used welding equipment in the Hampshire area. I take on welding jobs in the evenings, ally casting repairs are one of my specialities but I can weld pretty much anything. PM me with your requirements.

Some of my services: (See my for sale threads)
Engine mount/chassis repair
Solid Beam Mounts BACK IN PRODUCTION
Harness bars
Posted 27th Oct 2012 at 20:47
pete_rallye

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Post #6
Maximum oil temps vary with the grade of oil used. Eg a 10/60 will cope much better with high temps than a 10/40. I would be very surprised if your oil is getting to 140 on the road unless you are able to drive flat out for mile after mile. Have you removed your water>oil cooler?

I would suspect that something has been wrong with the pump for quite a while if you're getting those temps, probably not pumping as well as it should or something.

Other thing to note with the temp gauge on the 6 is that it picks up the temp of the oil in the sump. Before it goes through the engine again it flows through the water>oil cooler and filter and looses quite a bit of heat so the actual temp of the oil when it is been 'used' is considerably less than indicated.

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Posted 27th Oct 2012 at 21:03
JWP EFi

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Post #7
pete_rallye wrote:
Maximum oil temps vary with the grade of oil used. Eg a 10/60 will cope much better with high temps than a 10/40. I would be very surprised if your oil is getting to 140 on the road unless you are able to drive flat out for mile after mile. Have you removed your water>oil cooler?

I would suspect that something has been wrong with the pump for quite a while if you're getting those temps, probably not pumping as well as it should or something.

Other thing to note with the temp gauge on the 6 is that it picks up the temp of the oil in the sump. Before it goes through the engine again it flows through the water>oil cooler and filter and looses quite a bit of heat so the actual temp of the oil when it is been 'used' is considerably less than indicated.



good point. my heat exchanger is still in place, normal driving sees approx 90 degrees but as soon as i using its

revs for any length of time the temp raises very quickly
Posted 27th Oct 2012 at 21:15
jeffers Forum Admin

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Post #8
Oil will shear at roughly 120 degrees. If ur seeing 140 your engine will die soon. With them temperatures on hard road driving I would surmise your engine has issues, a cooler will probably only cover up the problem! I agree with Pete here and suspect you have a pump issue......

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Posted 27th Oct 2012 at 21:24
daveyboy

aka Jim Davey

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Post #9
Sorry but what Pete said about temperatures and the heat exchanger isn't right , whatever the oil temp is in the sump it will be the same temp oil pumped through the galleries to the bearings, cams, pistons etc. and its only going to get hotter as it goes through the engine drawing heat from the bearings and combustion process as it goes. It will cool slightly in the sump due to windage on the bottom of the sump pan, but not much. When was your last oil change? Using thicker grades of oil also masks underlying issues, it also places more strain on the oil pump and more importantly the oil pump drive chain (which has been known to break). As said the oil pump could be faulty, but I'd be interested to see what the condition of your water cooling systems like and wether or not your head gasket is on its way out.

________________________________________

R H Davey Welding Supplies. I sell new and used welding equipment in the Hampshire area. I take on welding jobs in the evenings, ally casting repairs are one of my specialities but I can weld pretty much anything. PM me with your requirements.

Some of my services: (See my for sale threads)
Engine mount/chassis repair
Solid Beam Mounts BACK IN PRODUCTION
Harness bars
Posted 27th Oct 2012 at 21:40
JWP EFi

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Post #10
daveyboy wrote:
Sorry but what Pete said about temperatures and the heat exchanger isn't right , whatever the oil temp is in the sump it will be the same temp oil pumped through the galleries to the bearings, cams, pistons etc. and its only going to get hotter as it goes through the engine drawing heat from the bearings and combustion process as it goes. It will cool slightly in the sump due to windage on the bottom of the sump pan, but not much. When was your last oil change? Using thicker grades of oil also masks underlying issues, it also places more strain on the oil pump and more importantly the oil pump drive chain (which has been known to break). As said the oil pump could be faulty, but I'd be interested to see what the condition of your water cooling systems like and wether or not your head gasket is on its way out.


i changed oil when i got the car approx 3 months ago, then twice couple weekends ago!

when i got it the oil was very dirty even tho the car came with a healthy wad of 'history'

..theres no excess pressure/oil deposits in the radiator nor do i ever have to top it up...so far
Posted 27th Oct 2012 at 21:48
bigbadbowen

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Post #11
Have you tried a different sensor / sender as I suspect a faulty reading ? 140 will kill an engine very quickly ?
Posted 27th Oct 2012 at 21:57
JWP EFi

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Post #12
no, but its been tested and it appears to be ok, now wondering if HG i blowing into sump rather

than coolng system??

i forgot to say my inlet/tb has been powder coated and breather on tb was partially blocked
Posted 27th Oct 2012 at 22:04
pete_rallye

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Post #13
Not wishing to start an argument but I'd be interested to know how the oil isn't any cooler after flowing through the oil cooler and filter?! The temp sensor is in the sump, then the oil is pumped up, through the cooler and filter and then into the main oilways, so surely it has to be cooler?

________________________________________

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Oulton Park in a BTCC 306 vid 2
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Posted 27th Oct 2012 at 22:05
matt evans

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Post #14
pete_rallye wrote:
Not wishing to start an argument but I'd be interested to know how the oil isn't any cooler after flowing through the oil cooler and filter?! The temp sensor is in the sump, then the oil is pumped up, through the cooler and filter and then into the main oilways, so surely it has to be cooler?


I'd say so, based on my post earlier, Rich's engine is still going strong, so it must cool it a reasonable amount?

The guys who we track day with have E46 M3's and their oil reaches 120c according to the dash readout

________________________________________

1999 Astor Grey GTi-6 OEM+ (now gone...)
2004 Aegean Blue 206 GTi 180 (also gone...)
2006 Skoda Fabia vRS in Sprint Yellow

honestly3k wrote:
Do you wrestle for a living matt? You sound like a monster LOL


owain wrote:
Nothing involving a 306 can be considered worthwhile.

Posted 27th Oct 2012 at 22:08
JWP EFi

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Post #15
pete_rallye wrote:
Not wishing to start an argument but I'd be interested to know how the oil isn't any cooler after flowing through the oil cooler and filter?! The temp sensor is in the sump, then the oil is pumped up, through the cooler and filter and then into the main oilways, so surely it has to be cooler?


i understand what your getting at mate
Posted 27th Oct 2012 at 22:10
pete_rallye

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Post #16
http://www.opieoils.co.uk/pdfs/tech-articles/10w-60-oil.pdf <<<<<<<read this

It goes some way to explain what I was saying about thickness of oil related to temperature, but also explains why you can't just run a thick oil to cope with higher temps.

________________________________________

Oulton Park in a BTCC 306 vid 1
Oulton Park in a BTCC 306 vid 2
Lap of the 'ring
Posted 27th Oct 2012 at 22:32
daveyboy

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Post #17
pete_rallye wrote:
Not wishing to start an argument but I'd be interested to know how the oil isn't any cooler after flowing through the oil cooler and filter?! The temp sensor is in the sump, then the oil is pumped up, through the cooler and filter and then into the main oilways, so surely it has to be cooler?


Ok I didnt word it as clearly as I could have, the heat exchanger primarily helps the engine warm up faster and is far to small and inefficient to remove much temperature from the oil in the dhoti time it takes for the oil to pass through it. How hot is the coolant in a hard driven car? 90-100 degrees? If 120 degree + oil passes through a 100 degree oil/water heat exchanger how much temp do you suppose it pulls from the oil passing through it? Not much would be my opinion, certainly not enough for it to be relied upon to save you from disastrous oil degradation. So yes Pete, you are right to a degree, it will cool somewhat, but not enough to make it count.

________________________________________

R H Davey Welding Supplies. I sell new and used welding equipment in the Hampshire area. I take on welding jobs in the evenings, ally casting repairs are one of my specialities but I can weld pretty much anything. PM me with your requirements.

Some of my services: (See my for sale threads)
Engine mount/chassis repair
Solid Beam Mounts BACK IN PRODUCTION
Harness bars
Posted 27th Oct 2012 at 22:36
JWP EFi

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Post #18
interesting read, btw, ive never been one for filling up with thicker oil and saw dust lol
Posted 27th Oct 2012 at 22:39
pete_rallye

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Post #19
daveyboy wrote:
pete_rallye wrote:
Not wishing to start an argument but I'd be interested to know how the oil isn't any cooler after flowing through the oil cooler and filter?! The temp sensor is in the sump, then the oil is pumped up, through the cooler and filter and then into the main oilways, so surely it has to be cooler?


Ok I didnt word it as clearly as I could have, the heat exchanger primarily helps the engine warm up faster and is far to small and inefficient to remove much temperature from the oil in the dhoti time it takes for the oil to pass through it. How hot is the coolant in a hard driven car? 90-100 degrees? If 120 degree + oil passes through a 100 degree oil/water heat exchanger how much temp do you suppose it pulls from the oil passing through it? Not much would be my opinion, certainly not enough for it to be relied upon to save you from disastrous oil degradation. So yes Pete, you are right to a degree, it will cool somewhat, but not enough to make it count.


Agreed, but my water temp usually sat around 90 unless it was a particularly hot day, and again, the water temp sensor is at the end of the block, reading the coolant at it's hottest. So in actual fact, the coolant is likely to be considerably cooler and will have a greater cooling effect on the oil than you may think.

This document shows the maxi's used a similar set-up but with a larger cooler. With no additional oil take offs visable, it would suggest it was the only form of oil cooling...

http://www.peugeotsport-store.com/cms/web/upload/documentation/110/4fd1e555e8e83.pdf (page 12)

________________________________________

Oulton Park in a BTCC 306 vid 1
Oulton Park in a BTCC 306 vid 2
Lap of the 'ring
Posted 27th Oct 2012 at 22:52
daveyboy

aka Jim Davey

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Registered: 01 Oct 2007

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Post #20
That's all correct, but I am guessing the maxi and your touring car have a better ie more efficient water radiator than the standard road car yes?

________________________________________

R H Davey Welding Supplies. I sell new and used welding equipment in the Hampshire area. I take on welding jobs in the evenings, ally casting repairs are one of my specialities but I can weld pretty much anything. PM me with your requirements.

Some of my services: (See my for sale threads)
Engine mount/chassis repair
Solid Beam Mounts BACK IN PRODUCTION
Harness bars
Posted 27th Oct 2012 at 22:55
pete_rallye

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Post #21
My touring car has a laminova one, so that is definately more efficient, but along side an air>oil cooler also. I think the laminova is there to aid engine warm up more than cooling. Having never seen a maxi one except in that diagram I couldn't say but I would expect a works rally car to run a pretty decent oil cooler, especially with the revs up at 11k or whatever they were.

I have no idea how efficient the road car one is but I never had oil temp problems on the road, and only on hot days had issues on track. I fitted a thermostatic sandwich plate type oil take off to an air>oil filter to keep it in check.

________________________________________

Oulton Park in a BTCC 306 vid 1
Oulton Park in a BTCC 306 vid 2
Lap of the 'ring
Posted 27th Oct 2012 at 23:10
JWP EFi

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Registered: 07 Mar 2010

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Post #22
pete_rallye wrote:
daveyboy wrote:
pete_rallye wrote:
Not wishing to start an argument but I'd be interested to know how the oil isn't any cooler after flowing through the oil cooler and filter?! The temp sensor is in the sump, then the oil is pumped up, through the cooler and filter and then into the main oilways, so surely it has to be cooler?


Ok I didnt word it as clearly as I could have, the heat exchanger primarily helps the engine warm up faster and is far to small and inefficient to remove much temperature from the oil in the dhoti time it takes for the oil to pass through it. How hot is the coolant in a hard driven car? 90-100 degrees? If 120 degree + oil passes through a 100 degree oil/water heat exchanger how much temp do you suppose it pulls from the oil passing through it? Not much would be my opinion, certainly not enough for it to be relied upon to save you from disastrous oil degradation. So yes Pete, you are right to a degree, it will cool somewhat, but not enough to make it count.


Agreed, but my water temp usually sat around 90 unless it was a particularly hot day, and again, the water temp sensor is at the end of the block, reading the coolant at it's hottest. So in actual fact, the coolant is likely to be considerably cooler and will have a greater cooling effect on the oil than you may think.

This document shows the maxi's used a similar set-up but with a larger cooler. With no additional oil take offs visable, it would suggest it was the only form of oil cooling...

http://www.peugeotsport-store.com/cms/web/upload/documentation/110/4fd1e555e8e83.pdf (page 12)


some useful info there
Posted 27th Oct 2012 at 23:15

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