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Author Subject: A.B.S Track Car
lurch86

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Location: Herne Bay, Kent

Registered: 22 Nov 2010

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Post #1
Hello, I've still got the abs in my track car and I see alot of you track boys remove it. Just wondering what the benefits are as to whether I should remove it or not? Im pretty sure my car brakes pretty good, then again I haven't tried a non abs gti6 on track so I dont have anything to compare...?

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Posted 1st Oct 2012 at 01:49
daveyboy

aka Jim Davey

Location: Southampton

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Post #2
Gives you more control and allows you to brake a bit harder and later as abs obviously releases the brakes and reapplies them in order to prevent locking up but they aren't the most sophisticated of systems on our old Pugs and in the dry at least you have better braking without it. Providing you don't stand on the anchors at every braking point that is!

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Posted 1st Oct 2012 at 02:18
lurch86

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Post #3
Thanks for the reply. Did it make a big noticable difference to yours? Thought I was the only one still up at this stupid hour!

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Posted 1st Oct 2012 at 02:28
daveyboy

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Post #4
Not massively as I don't tend to lock up much when I brake but it helped when you wanted to turn in on the brakes to get the rear end moving a little to quell under steer.

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Posted 1st Oct 2012 at 02:30
lurch86

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Location: Herne Bay, Kent

Registered: 22 Nov 2010

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Post #5
I see, that may benefit me then as when I did a session with only the fronts being slicks and the rears being prada 2's and I found it much better going into corners as the back end would step out slightly and seemed to reduced the understeer on a couple of the corners

Is it possible to pull the fuse to try it first? or does it mess the bias up just unplugging? Thanks again

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Posted 1st Oct 2012 at 02:50
owain

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Post #6
I removed the ABS in mine for three reasons: to save weight, to reduce the amount of expensive fluid I had to put in, and to help improve my driving.

It did all three successfully. Driving aids are for girls.

To be honest if you have plenty of grip, you'll never notice a difference. It's only when you run out (Rockingham, wet) that you do some hilarious low-speed lockups into a cone while looking apologetically at the marshall who has to put it back.

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Posted 1st Oct 2012 at 07:24
footah212

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Location: Paisley

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Post #7
lurch86 wrote:
I see, that may benefit me then as when I did a session with only the fronts being slicks and the rears being prada 2's and I found it much better going into corners as the back end would step out slightly and seemed to reduced the understeer on a couple of the corners

Is it possible to pull the fuse to try it first? or does it mess the bias up just unplugging? Thanks again


There may be a fuse to pull out or you could just unplug the ABS unit i think.

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Posted 1st Oct 2012 at 08:32
daveyboy

aka Jim Davey

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Post #8
Yeah there is a fuse but I can't remember it's location now.

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R H Davey Welding Supplies. I sell new and used welding equipment in the Hampshire area. I take on welding jobs in the evenings, ally casting repairs are one of my specialities but I can weld pretty much anything. PM me with your requirements.

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Engine mount/chassis repair
Solid Beam Mounts BACK IN PRODUCTION
Harness bars
Posted 1st Oct 2012 at 09:16
lurch86

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Location: Herne Bay, Kent

Registered: 22 Nov 2010

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Post #9
owain wrote:
I removed the ABS in mine for three reasons: to save weight, to reduce the amount of expensive fluid I had to put in, and to help improve my driving.

It did all three successfully. Driving aids are for girls.

To be honest if you have plenty of grip, you'll never notice a difference. It's only when you run out (Rockingham, wet) that you do some hilarious low-speed lockups into a cone while looking apologetically at the marshall who has to put it back.


Haha, I saw in your project that you removed the abs, that's why I asked about it. It would be a lot easier to bleed the brakes etc without abs and tidy things up a bit.


I might try finding the fuse or unplugging the abs unit next time to try it then, cheers

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Posted 1st Oct 2012 at 10:57
owain

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Post #10
Also worth bearing in mind that if you have ABS fitted at all (i.e. the pump is there) then having it not working is an MOT fail - if you're going to remove it, you have to remove the lot - pump, pipes, warning light, whole lot.

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Posted 1st Oct 2012 at 10:59
lurch86

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Location: Herne Bay, Kent

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Post #11
Yeah, the old man mentioned that to me when I said to him I was going to get rid of it. Shouldnt be that much of a pain removing the lot though is it?

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Posted 1st Oct 2012 at 11:05
owain

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Post #12
Nope, none at all. Take about five or ten minutes because there's no need to be careful. Takes longer to run the new brake lines.

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Posted 1st Oct 2012 at 11:06
lurch86

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Post #13
Sweet, there's something quite satisfying about ripping bits out of my track car! Will try it next session by unplugging it then rip it out if I prefer it. (which I probably will)

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Posted 1st Oct 2012 at 11:13
welshpug!

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Location: Bigend, Wales.

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Post #14
unless its a phase3 with EBD and no load compensator.

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Posted 1st Oct 2012 at 11:41
lurch86

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Post #15
Na its phase 2 Smile

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Posted 1st Oct 2012 at 11:43
darzmat

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Post #16
try it out with fuse 12 in the dash unplugged. although it will turn off the reverse lights too

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Posted 1st Oct 2012 at 19:54
lurch86

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Location: Herne Bay, Kent

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Post #17
Cheers, saves me looking for what fuse it is!

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Posted 1st Oct 2012 at 20:00
cjm_harris

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Post #18
welshpug! wrote:
unless its a phase3 with EBD and no load compensator.


Looking to remove ABS from my track car too, but its a phase 3, what needs to be done?

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Posted 1st Oct 2012 at 23:31
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Post #19
2 lines out your master cylinder. one for the front one for the back. T them off appropriately to make 2 front 2 back. add a bias adjuster in your back line before the T. Sorted


To do it right in braided hose is a f**king nightmare though. I ended up using alot of the rear setup design as to allow for axle movements. couldnt figure anything better than the standard rear pipes back to standard flexi joints and then up through the boot.
Posted 2nd Oct 2012 at 12:17
jeffers Forum Admin

Location: Leeds

Registered: 14 Dec 2003

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Post #20
I removed my ABS two year ago and re piped it all in copper just using flexis in the standard positions. I just plumbed in a brake bias valve before the T for the rear brakes, works a treat and is an absolute doddle to bleed. If you need any pictures or anything gimme a shout and i'll dig some up for you! Thumbs up

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Posted 2nd Oct 2012 at 12:36
mark.evs

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Location: Near Bridgend

Registered: 21 Dec 2010

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Post #21
I binned mine too, had some flexi's made to measure and a bias valve from Swampy, run through the car. Awesome job. i have locked up a couple of times on the track but by pumping the pedal it'll do the same as the ABS. The Abs has it's own loom too which can all be unclipped and binned. Leaves a bit of space for fitting an air filter too.

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Posted 2nd Oct 2012 at 17:06
lurch86

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Location: Herne Bay, Kent

Registered: 22 Nov 2010

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Post #22
Post those pics up Jeffers, I'd like to see how you've done it, cheers

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Posted 2nd Oct 2012 at 20:50
jeffers Forum Admin

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Post #23
lurch86 wrote:
Post those pics up Jeffers, I'd like to see how you've done it, cheers

If the weathers up to it il get out tomorrow when I'm home from work and take some. It's not hard at all really, a few practice goes with the brake pipe making tool and I was away! I'll see what pics I can get tomorrow matey! Thumbs up

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Posted 2nd Oct 2012 at 23:59
owain

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Post #24
Bring 'em on Jeffers, would be keen to see how much different it is from mine Yes











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Posted 3rd Oct 2012 at 07:42
lurch86

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Location: Herne Bay, Kent

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Post #25
Looks good, looks easy enough to do!

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Posted 5th Oct 2012 at 04:13

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