I'd say use a specific cam bedding in lube from the likes of Kent etc as any damage will be done in the first 30 seconds or so you therefore really want to make sure the stuff you are using is fit for the job. Prime up all oil galleries, remove cam covers and liberally coat with cam lube, the bottle is small, use all of it, make sure plenty goes onto the top of the lifter buckets, and spin over as you say with no plugs to get the oil pressure up without load. (put the cam covers back on first to avoid oil spray.
Then start her up and run between 2-3000 rpm for fifteen to twenty minutes, keeping a close eye on temperatures and oil pressure warning lights. At no point during start up or running in period should the car be allowed to idle. As for the non return valve if you are in any doubt change it.

Graphogen if you do decide to use it has no detrimental effect on the oil whatsoever, it will break down and be absorbed into the oil without issue. The oil change is to remove the microscopic metal particles created by bedding in the cams, these if left in the oil will accelerate wear.

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R H Davey Welding Supplies. I sell new and used welding equipment in the Hampshire area. I take on welding jobs in the evenings, ally casting repairs are one of my specialities but I can weld pretty much anything. PM me with your requirements.

Some of my services: (See my for sale threads)
Engine mount/chassis repair
Solid Beam Mounts BACK IN PRODUCTION
Harness bars

Graphogen is a similar product it's a smooth grease, with a high graphite content, it's dark black unlike the Joe Gibbs stuff which just looks and feels like regular grease to me. (I've used both) personally I'd coat the cam bearing surfaces and lobes with graphogen, then pour on the cam lube to protect the cams as the graphogen wears off.

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R H Davey Welding Supplies. I sell new and used welding equipment in the Hampshire area. I take on welding jobs in the evenings, ally casting repairs are one of my specialities but I can weld pretty much anything. PM me with your requirements.

Some of my services: (See my for sale threads)
Engine mount/chassis repair
Solid Beam Mounts BACK IN PRODUCTION
Harness bars

So we are presuming 'replace' means fitting new cams

'replace' could be replacing the original cams in the head

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Red GTB1756 powered Fabia VRS daily driver,LBSC Gti6 eater........

Mac1 ZR R1 kit car build in progress.

If re-using the old cams keep then you don't need to do anything special when refitting as they are already bedded in. I would still coat with assembly lube (graphogen or similar) and I'd have kept each lifter in order so it went with the same lobe of each cam. No bedding in will be required if all of the same parts are used as before, but still prime the oil as suggested earlier and keep an ear out for tapping lifters or valves if you've got something wrong. (Check for signs of valve to piston contact, if you had any before the skim you will smash the valves unless you retard the timing at this stage)

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R H Davey Welding Supplies. I sell new and used welding equipment in the Hampshire area. I take on welding jobs in the evenings, ally casting repairs are one of my specialities but I can weld pretty much anything. PM me with your requirements.

Some of my services: (See my for sale threads)
Engine mount/chassis repair
Solid Beam Mounts BACK IN PRODUCTION
Harness bars

Just remember do not spin the cams too far without the belt on when timing up,as the valves can come into contact with each other and get bent

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Red GTB1756 powered Fabia VRS daily driver,LBSC Gti6 eater........

Mac1 ZR R1 kit car build in progress.

This is where most people have a major fail, and then can't work out why the valves have bent against the pistons because of course they haven't, they've tangled against each other.

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"Supercharged - 454.1bhp/317.5lb/ft"
Peugeot 306 GTi-6
2000 (X), Moonstone