If I take it back to bare metal, what is the best product to apply first to protect it from further rust, as it may be a while before I get it painted properly?
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Team 'unintentional rat look'
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displaying posts 1 to 17 of 17
Author | Subject: underbody protection |
clen666
Seasoned Pro Location: Co. Durham Registered: 12 Feb 2009 Posts: 2,401 Status: Offline |
Post #1
Planning to attack the rusty underside of the car, starting with the boot floor.If I take it back to bare metal, what is the best product to apply first to protect it from further rust, as it may be a while before I get it painted properly? ________________________________________ Team 'unintentional rat look' |
Posted 9th Jul 2012 at 14:16
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eliotrw
Seasoned Pro Location: Southwark Registered: 18 Jul 2010 Posts: 4,864 Status: Offline |
Post #2
I cant remember who (I think it might have been russbez) but someone had a good bit in their project on the subject.________________________________________ Ex- Phase 3 China GTi-6 T-Reg |
Posted 9th Jul 2012 at 14:19
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mik
Seasoned Pro Location: Kent Registered: 17 Feb 2011 Posts: 2,100 Status: Offline |
Post #3
There are a few project threads mentioning the subject, including mine. Bilt Hamber Electrox zinc primer is what I used and I'm very happy with it. It can be overcoated with a variety of paints when you are ready, and the zinc provides cathodic rust protection in a similar way to the original galvanising. ________________________________________ Cherry Rallye SOLD |
Posted 9th Jul 2012 at 17:49
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prism7guy
Seasoned Pro Location: DoncastAAAAARGH Registered: 13 Jan 2008 Posts: 4,640 Status: Offline |
Post #4
When i expose bare metal on mine i tend to paint over it with a bit of bilt hamber hydrate 80.________________________________________ Goldie the track car. |
Posted 9th Jul 2012 at 17:57
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mik
Seasoned Pro Location: Kent Registered: 17 Feb 2011 Posts: 2,100 Status: Offline |
Post #5
A test an owner did comparing results from Hydrate 80 and Electrox. It is an unscientific test from only one person but...http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=211862 Key quote from the link: "For me, the photos clearly show the difference the Electrox Zinc rich primer made, indeed I could only spot some minor decay, but mostly the finish was still pretty much perfect...it appears that the Hydrate 80 does help to a certain extent, but for my requirements, it was clear that I needed to derust the area properly and then use Electrox and then a top coat for longevity". ________________________________________ Cherry Rallye SOLD |
Posted 9th Jul 2012 at 18:17
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clen666
Seasoned Pro Location: Co. Durham Registered: 12 Feb 2009 Posts: 2,401 Status: Offline |
Post #6
Any idea whether the electrox pots or aerosols are better?________________________________________ Team 'unintentional rat look' |
Posted 9th Jul 2012 at 19:15
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mik
Seasoned Pro Location: Kent Registered: 17 Feb 2011 Posts: 2,100 Status: Offline |
Post #7
Aerosols will give you a better finish as the brush-on stuff will show some brush marks. But under the car it is not really a drama and brushing means you can get it under fuel/brake lines etc without making everything grey, fill the pits nicely etc. Aerosols better for brake backing discs, the factory airbox, getting inside chassis rail etc. I've got both and a single 1-litre standard tin has lasted really well - I started at the back of the car and am up to the engine bay and there is still around 1/4 of a can left. ________________________________________ Cherry Rallye SOLD |
Posted 9th Jul 2012 at 22:27
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dan86
Senior User Location: Bideford Registered: 10 May 2009 Posts: 548 Status: Offline |
Post #8
I use a cold zinc galvanising aerosol to cover bare metal. I get it from the local farm supply shop as the farmers use it to cover up any welding they do to galvanised gates. Once dry it leaves a 95% zinc coating! Then I overpaint as normal with primer then basecoat/lacquer. ________________________________________ |
Posted 10th Jul 2012 at 07:03
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clen666
Seasoned Pro Location: Co. Durham Registered: 12 Feb 2009 Posts: 2,401 Status: Offline |
Post #9
The area will be completely stripped of brake lines etc. so might just go for the aerosol.I was unsure how far the aerosol would go but it sounds like it gives decent coverage ________________________________________ Team 'unintentional rat look' |
Posted 10th Jul 2012 at 09:20
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coskev
Seasoned Pro Location: Oswestry Registered: 01 Nov 2009 Posts: 3,132 Status: Offline |
Post #10
Rust bullet is my personal recomendation ________________________________________ Red GTB1756 powered Fabia VRS daily driver,LBSC Gti6 eater........Mac1 ZR R1 kit car build in progress. |
Posted 10th Jul 2012 at 17:18
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phillipm
Seasoned Pro Location: Rotherham Registered: 15 Oct 2006 Posts: 20,607 Status: Offline |
Post #11
BH do decent epoxy mastic for rollering on underneath now too.________________________________________ - Bespoke rollcages/additions/adjustments. Half cages right up to complete custom spaceframes - MSA/FIA spec, CDS, ROPT, T45, etc - PM meEmail me! Custom-made polybushes available - need an odd size or fitment? - anything from batch work to one-off pieces. |
Posted 10th Jul 2012 at 17:32
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T400 PUG
Banned! Location: Burnley Registered: 01 Jan 1970 Posts: 641 Status: Offline |
Post #12
ive done mine with a variety of stuff, i went at it with a grinder wheel and then chemicals to get in the pits with bilt hambers stuff as much as possible. some bits of localised deep rust i just used that por 15 stuff on. Other places got zinc electrox stuff. then painted with some paint and sealed with bilt hambers stuff. ive used the bh converter as well which is ok but i prefer to strip it back and electrox it if possible. that paint is really good but i reckon for a pukka job the metal needs sandblasting to get a really good key for what ever paint you use after that. |
Posted 11th Jul 2012 at 19:12
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clen666
Seasoned Pro Location: Co. Durham Registered: 12 Feb 2009 Posts: 2,401 Status: Offline |
Post #13
Yeah I have some deox gel to try and treat any rust I can't remove with a disc.I think I'll try coating with electrox and then possibly coating in the black epoxy mastic. Is that all that would need to be applied or would you supply another layer of something? The BH site states " Epoxy Mastic is inert to the vast majority of top coat systems." ________________________________________ Team 'unintentional rat look' |
Posted 11th Jul 2012 at 19:32
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daver6
Seasoned Pro Location: Durham Registered: 08 Aug 2010 Posts: 2,379 Status: Offline |
Post #14
Are you up in consett mate? I'd like to view the results once you've had a go? ________________________________________ Red Rallye - Rolling "restoration"Wishbone Polybushes available |
Posted 14th Jul 2012 at 12:20
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clen666
Seasoned Pro Location: Co. Durham Registered: 12 Feb 2009 Posts: 2,401 Status: Offline |
Post #15
Yip, but you might be waiting a while if this weather doesn't improve! ________________________________________ Team 'unintentional rat look' |
Posted 14th Jul 2012 at 12:43
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daver6
Seasoned Pro Location: Durham Registered: 08 Aug 2010 Posts: 2,379 Status: Offline |
Post #16
Haha mine'll have rotted away by then________________________________________ Red Rallye - Rolling "restoration"Wishbone Polybushes available |
Posted 14th Jul 2012 at 18:19
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daver6
Seasoned Pro Location: Durham Registered: 08 Aug 2010 Posts: 2,379 Status: Offline |
Post #17
Haha mine'll have rotted away by then________________________________________ Red Rallye - Rolling "restoration"Wishbone Polybushes available |
Posted 14th Jul 2012 at 18:19
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