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Author Subject: Engine bearings
pete_rallye

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Registered: 12 Dec 2002

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Post #1
Just speccing some engine bearings for my new motor and need confirmation of something.. I'm choosing between these-


Conrod Bearing Set 6B1490
Oversize STD, .25, .50, .75, 1.00
Brand ACL Duraglide
Manufacturer ACL
Conrod Bearing © 1490
Half Type Identical Halves
Manufacturer ACL
Min Std Shaft Size 1.7707in / 44.975mm
Max Std Shaft Size 1.7713in / 44.991mm
Min Std Tunnel Size 1.8898in / 48mm
Max Std Tunnel Size 1.8904in / 48.016mm
Max Wall At Crown 0.0588in / 1.493mm
Max Overall Length 0.7087in / 18mm
Min Vertical Oil Clearance 0.0009in / 0.023mm
Max Vertical Oil Clearance 0.0032in / 0.081mm
Material F780


and these-


Conrod Bearing Set 6B1490H
Oversize Std, .025, .25, .50
Brand ACL Race Series
Manufacturer ACL
Conrod Bearing © 1490H
Half Type Identical halves
Manufacturer ACL
Min Std Shaft Size 1.7707in / 44.975mm
Max Std Shaft Size 1.7713in / 44.991mm
Min Std Tunnel Size 1.8898in / 48mm
Max Std Tunnel Size 1.8904in / 48.016mm
Max Wall At Crown 0.0587in / 1.49mm
Max Overall Length 0.7087in / 18mm
Min Vertical Oil Clearance 0.0011in / 0.029mm
Max Vertical Oil Clearance 0.003in / 0.077mm
Material F781


There for a steel crank with 45mm big ends, hence they are BMW bearings, not Peugeot. The bit I need confirmation of is the 'Max Wall at Crown', is that the bearing thickness? And also the Min and Max 'Vertical oil clearance' I take it this is the clearance between the bearing inner face and the crank journal? And you'd measure that with Plastiguage?

The bearings that came out of it are the top 1490's, but I'm tempted to use the race one's, purely because there called race bearings and will cost me more.

________________________________________

Oulton Park in a BTCC 306 vid 1
Oulton Park in a BTCC 306 vid 2
Lap of the 'ring
Posted 19th May 2012 at 11:30
daveyboy

aka Jim Davey

Location: Southampton

Registered: 01 Oct 2007

Posts: 8,648

Status: Offline

Post #2
To get a really accurate idea of bearing clearance plasigauge just doesn't quite cut it. Yo need to install the mains in their caps, use an inside micrometer (Carefuly so as not to damage the soft metal bearing surfaces with the tips of the micrometer) and measure at least three plains vertical, 12-6 o'clock, 2-8 o'clock and 4-10 o'clock to check for ovality. Mike the corresponding journal on the crank the same way in at least three spots and subtract the average journal dimension from the figure you got for the main bearing. The figure you are left with is the true bearing clearance, this sounds long winded (Because it is! But its the only true way to know the clearance for certain, I have had several different readings measured on the same journal using Plasiguage, it is greatly affected by the ammount of grease/oil you use to lubricate the plasitc strip. It also only gives you a snapshot of the clearance at one particular point on the bearing. This means you might miss a potentially calamitous tight spot a third of the way round the bearing.

The method for obtaining the big end dimensions is exactly the same, you find the inner dimension with the bearing installed and subtract the crank journal measurement to ascertain the clearance. As you have had a bit of misfortune with expensive engines in the past I'd reccommend you take the time to find out all the figures and be sure of nailing together the best lump you can.

HTH Thumbs up

________________________________________

R H Davey Welding Supplies. I sell new and used welding equipment in the Hampshire area. I take on welding jobs in the evenings, ally casting repairs are one of my specialities but I can weld pretty much anything. PM me with your requirements.

Some of my services: (See my for sale threads)
Engine mount/chassis repair
Solid Beam Mounts BACK IN PRODUCTION
Harness bars
Posted 19th May 2012 at 13:48
pete_rallye

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Location: Yorkshire

Registered: 12 Dec 2002

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Post #3
Cheers for that! All the engines I have put together in the past have been standard engines, and I have relied on machinists doing their job right! This time I'm putting it together myself, at least that way if it does blow up I won't have paid someone £1500 to put it together for me!

So yeah, I know it's a long arduos task measuring and re-measuring everything but I'm not taking any chances!

________________________________________

Oulton Park in a BTCC 306 vid 1
Oulton Park in a BTCC 306 vid 2
Lap of the 'ring
Posted 19th May 2012 at 13:58
daveyboy

aka Jim Davey

Location: Southampton

Registered: 01 Oct 2007

Posts: 8,648

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Post #4
You will spend a few quid on tools for the job, a 0-25mm and a 25-50mm mike should see you right for most european 4 cylinder engines under 2 litre. Its the telescopic T-Bar inside mikes or the barrel types that will set you back. I would'nt bother with a bore guage, they are expensive and if the machinist was any good the bores should be spot on. (I got one though cos I don't trust anyone LOL) The way I saw it though was that maybe £400 on measuring kit was way cheaper than one major strip down in the event of a problem (I can't even get a set of pistons for that money)

________________________________________

R H Davey Welding Supplies. I sell new and used welding equipment in the Hampshire area. I take on welding jobs in the evenings, ally casting repairs are one of my specialities but I can weld pretty much anything. PM me with your requirements.

Some of my services: (See my for sale threads)
Engine mount/chassis repair
Solid Beam Mounts BACK IN PRODUCTION
Harness bars
Posted 19th May 2012 at 14:07
pete_rallye

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Location: Yorkshire

Registered: 12 Dec 2002

Posts: 5,253

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Post #5
I've got the T-Bar inside mikes, was just gonna measure that with a digital vernier to get the inside measurements, and was gonna measure the outside measurements with the digital vernier also! I've got a 0-25mm mike also. Reckon a 25-50mm mike is required, a vernier does the same job doesn't it?!

________________________________________

Oulton Park in a BTCC 306 vid 1
Oulton Park in a BTCC 306 vid 2
Lap of the 'ring
Posted 19th May 2012 at 14:22
daveyboy

aka Jim Davey

Location: Southampton

Registered: 01 Oct 2007

Posts: 8,648

Status: Offline

Post #6
pete_rallye wrote:
I've got the T-Bar inside mikes, was just gonna measure that with a digital vernier to get the inside measurements, and was gonna measure the outside measurements with the digital vernier also! I've got a 0-25mm mike also. Reckon a 25-50mm mike is required, a vernier does the same job doesn't it?!


No Pete, a vernier is nowhere near as accurate as a micrometer. Its ok for rough checks on crank sizes but for toleances of just a few thousandths of an inch its a mike every time.

________________________________________

R H Davey Welding Supplies. I sell new and used welding equipment in the Hampshire area. I take on welding jobs in the evenings, ally casting repairs are one of my specialities but I can weld pretty much anything. PM me with your requirements.

Some of my services: (See my for sale threads)
Engine mount/chassis repair
Solid Beam Mounts BACK IN PRODUCTION
Harness bars
Posted 19th May 2012 at 14:26
pete_rallye

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Location: Yorkshire

Registered: 12 Dec 2002

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Post #7
Boooo, more money! Ah well, 'spose it's not much in the scheme of things! Whats the point of a vernier measuring to thousandths if there not that accurate?!

________________________________________

Oulton Park in a BTCC 306 vid 1
Oulton Park in a BTCC 306 vid 2
Lap of the 'ring
Posted 19th May 2012 at 14:51
welshpug!

Capt Pedantic

Location: Bigend, Wales.

Registered: 27 Mar 2007

Posts: 25,825

Status: Offline

Post #8
whats the price difference?

why not get an engine builder rather than a machinist to sort it?

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need a part number? get on here - http://public.servicebox.peugeot.com

Bring on the Trumpets.

Posted 19th May 2012 at 22:03
allanallen

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Location: Buxton

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Post #9
Vernier calipers are fairly accurate, it's all down to the person using them. Mic's can also be less accurate than people think. There can be .002" + difference between 2 people's measurements depending on how 'heavy' there feel is. Also once you start using mic's over 0-25/0-1' mic's can be out of calibration and can't be easily checked without an accurate calibrated test bar.
And then there's temperature to contend with........

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Posted 20th May 2012 at 00:09
midlife

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Location: Colne, Lancashire

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Post #10
Allan is very much correct.
You should NEVER use the direct reading from an inside micNo No
I can get quite anal on the subject of accurate measurement.
I spent many years as a skilled inspector at R-R, I ended up being promoted to foreman of the inspection department.
I would recommend that you get a professional to do the measurements for you Pete. There are far too many ways to f**k up & wreck your engine.
If you want to discuss your options drop me a PM & I'll reply with my mobile numberSmile

Cool

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Posted 20th May 2012 at 00:41
pete_rallye

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Post #11
midlife wrote:

I would recommend that you get a professional to do the measurements for you Pete. There are far too many ways to f**k up & wreck your engine.


And there lies the problem! So far I've spent ~£15000 on 3 engines that have been built and/or otherwise f**ked up by "professionals". So this time, if anyone's going to f**k it up, it's me. I have built plenty of standard engines before, but never checked tolerances to such accuracy, assuming the engineers work is correct, and as far as I am aware none of them have gone bang yet! Obviously I'm not going to be so naive as to chuck a race engine together and expect it to work but the only work that will be not be done by myself is stuff I cannot do, such as a crank regrind, grinding the lifter shims etc but I will be checking that work myself.

I would be interested to have a chat with you Midlife, to see what you suggest! I do believe that been the foreman at R-R qualifies you to give me advice LOL

I would love to know if Longmans used to work out clearances with regard to temp etc, must have been quite a task as there 'workshop' was hardly a temperature controlled environment!

________________________________________

Oulton Park in a BTCC 306 vid 1
Oulton Park in a BTCC 306 vid 2
Lap of the 'ring
Posted 20th May 2012 at 02:01
welshpug!

Capt Pedantic

Location: Bigend, Wales.

Registered: 27 Mar 2007

Posts: 25,825

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Post #12
15k for three race engines? bloody cheap that is!

________________________________________

need a part number? get on here - http://public.servicebox.peugeot.com

Bring on the Trumpets.

Posted 20th May 2012 at 10:21
daveyboy

aka Jim Davey

Location: Southampton

Registered: 01 Oct 2007

Posts: 8,648

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Post #13
allanallen wrote:
Vernier calipers are fairly accurate, it's all down to the person using them. Mic's can also be less accurate than people think. There can be .002" + difference between 2 people's measurements depending on how 'heavy' there feel is. Also once you start using mic's over 0-25/0-1' mic's can be out of calibration and can't be easily checked without an accurate calibrated test bar.
And then there's temperature to contend with........


I would'nt get too OTT on an engine, if you store and clean your micrometers correctly they stay accurate pretty much indefinitely (Never store them with the anvil closed, and dont ever drop it, a wipe with some light oil once in a while will do fine for keeping corrosion at bay) I'm not trying to say that at RR they don't know what they are doing, quite the opposite. What I am saying is that on a modified production engine (Its not a hyper exotic F1 grenade) there is no tolerance so critical that a +- of 2 thou is anything to worry about. Talk of temperature variation is rather uneccessary when discussing something of this nature (Maybe not when measuring tolerances for the bearings on a gas turbine engine but lets be realistic here)

As for 'feel' yeah, if you gorrilla grip up the barrel on the mike then the anvil will flex giving you an erroneous reading, thats why they give you a ratchet/clutch adjuster bezel to make this less of an issue , however I'd take a few readings to check they come out the same every time when using the ratchet. The ratchet is a good alternative until you develop a feel for the right amount of pressure. (Usually slightly more than the ratchet gives)

The chances are that most if not all of the things you ask your machinist to do will come back close enough to be right for the job, but unless you check everything you will never find out if it really is right until you turn the key, this is a very expensive way to go engine building.

________________________________________

R H Davey Welding Supplies. I sell new and used welding equipment in the Hampshire area. I take on welding jobs in the evenings, ally casting repairs are one of my specialities but I can weld pretty much anything. PM me with your requirements.

Some of my services: (See my for sale threads)
Engine mount/chassis repair
Solid Beam Mounts BACK IN PRODUCTION
Harness bars
Posted 21st May 2012 at 10:24
allanallen

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Location: Buxton

Registered: 01 May 2007

Posts: 1,399

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Post #14
daveyboy wrote:
allanallen wrote:
Vernier calipers are fairly accurate, it's all down to the person using them. Mic's can also be less accurate than people think. There can be .002" + difference between 2 people's measurements depending on how 'heavy' there feel is. Also once you start using mic's over 0-25/0-1' mic's can be out of calibration and can't be easily checked without an accurate calibrated test bar.
And then there's temperature to contend with........


I would'nt get too OTT on an engine, if you store and clean your micrometers correctly they stay accurate pretty much indefinitely (Never store them with the anvil closed, and dont ever drop it, a wipe with some light oil once in a while will do fine for keeping corrosion at bay) I'm not trying to say that at RR they don't know what they are doing, quite the opposite. What I am saying is that on a modified production engine (Its not a hyper exotic F1 grenade) there is no tolerance so critical that a +- of 2 thou is anything to worry about. Talk of temperature variation is rather uneccessary when discussing something of this nature (Maybe not when measuring tolerances for the bearings on a gas turbine engine but lets be realistic here)

As for 'feel' yeah, if you gorrilla grip up the barrel on the mike then the anvil will flex giving you an erroneous reading, thats why they give you a ratchet/clutch adjuster bezel to make this less of an issue , however I'd take a few readings to check they come out the same every time when using the ratchet. The ratchet is a good alternative until you develop a feel for the right amount of pressure. (Usually slightly more than the ratchet gives)

The chances are that most if not all of the things you ask your machinist to do will come back close enough to be right for the job, but unless you check everything you will never find out if it really is right until you turn the key, this is a very expensive way to go engine building.


Just to clear something up. 1 'thou' (.001" ) is 1 thousandth of an inch and .001mm is 1 micron (uM). Now I'm sure you know this already as you obviously can't use a standard mic to measure microns?!
If you built an engine with a +or- 2thou tolerance on any of the parts it would be a massive heap of scrap.

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Posted 21st May 2012 at 15:41
pete_rallye

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Post #15
Those bearings above are also available with an additional thou clearance, why would you want that!? Also, the difference between minimum and Max vertical oil clearance is greater than 2 thou, so assuming you're between those 2 figures you'd be ok?

________________________________________

Oulton Park in a BTCC 306 vid 1
Oulton Park in a BTCC 306 vid 2
Lap of the 'ring
Posted 21st May 2012 at 15:51
rikky 🦔

Location: cheshire

Registered: 28 Feb 2004

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Post #16
additional clearance = rod flexibility Unsure

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Posted 21st May 2012 at 15:55
pete_rallye

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Post #17
You're gonna have to explain that to me Rikky! Haven't got a clue what you mean!

________________________________________

Oulton Park in a BTCC 306 vid 1
Oulton Park in a BTCC 306 vid 2
Lap of the 'ring
Posted 21st May 2012 at 16:00
rikky 🦔

Location: cheshire

Registered: 28 Feb 2004

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Post #18
to allow for a] additions at a later date without changing them and b] allowing for movement/stretch/distortion but i guess that would be for super high power engine builds. doubt you need to worry about them, but i have heard of them loads of times before, probably when buying bits for my mi16/s16 engine years ago, and forget why they were used tbh! maybe it's to do with running a much thicker oil? god knows really.. what i know about them you could probably write on a bearing itself. i'm sure midlife/allenallen are the brains

________________________________________

306 rallye reproduction decals (full sets/individual decals) | 306 b-pillar textured vinyl weatherstrips
306 slam panel esso stickers | 306 yellow / orange / pension fund red side door badges
gti6 inlet manifold badges | 306 rear boot badges (p2/p3)
winner of Extraction of toys from prams with outstanding vigour award 2009 [source: gti6 owners club]
Posted 21st May 2012 at 16:14
daveyboy

aka Jim Davey

Location: Southampton

Registered: 01 Oct 2007

Posts: 8,648

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Post #19
Sorry, you are quite right Allen,what I meant to say was +- 1-2 ten-thousandths of an inch, this level of accuracy should be achievable with a decant micrometer. I muddle my terminology sometimes when it comes to imperial measurements,please forgive my previous misleading post.

________________________________________

R H Davey Welding Supplies. I sell new and used welding equipment in the Hampshire area. I take on welding jobs in the evenings, ally casting repairs are one of my specialities but I can weld pretty much anything. PM me with your requirements.

Some of my services: (See my for sale threads)
Engine mount/chassis repair
Solid Beam Mounts BACK IN PRODUCTION
Harness bars
Posted 21st May 2012 at 21:11
midlife

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Location: Colne, Lancashire

Registered: 13 Mar 2006

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Post #20
Let's get something clear here, you can't measure to tenths of a thou with a micrometer.
Even if you are using really expensive mics anything less than a thou is pure unrepeatable guess work.
There are plenty of more accurate methods but the equipment you would need would be very expensive....
In my opinion plastigauge ftmfw!

Cool

________________________________________

Get used to seeing the yellow one !!!MehMehMehMehMeh
Team 330™Cool
Team "no front end or engine"
Team "LIMITED EDITION" I live for the 306 stickerSmug
Team 0-60 in 6.44 & standing qtr in 14.808 @ 94.55mph all with std engineSmug
203bhp Corolla T-Sport daily driver stealthier than Kwai Chang Caine
Posted 21st May 2012 at 21:44
pete_rallye

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Post #21
Ah well, just bought one of these- tape measure

apparently it will not only measure everything for me, but then build my engine and make cups of tea, for the price I expected dinner too but can't have it all...

________________________________________

Oulton Park in a BTCC 306 vid 1
Oulton Park in a BTCC 306 vid 2
Lap of the 'ring
Posted 21st May 2012 at 21:51
midlife

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Location: Colne, Lancashire

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Post #22
rikky wrote:
to allow for a] additions at a later date without changing them and b] allowing for movement/stretch/distortion but i guess that would be for super high power engine builds. doubt you need to worry about them, but i have heard of them loads of times before, probably when buying bits for my mi16/s16 engine years ago, and forget why they were used tbh! maybe it's to do with running a much thicker oil? god knows really.. what i know about them you could probably write on a bearing itself. i'm sure midlife/allenallen are the brains


Rikky, once again I have had to dig this pic outWhistle



Cool

________________________________________

Get used to seeing the yellow one !!!MehMehMehMehMeh
Team 330™Cool
Team "no front end or engine"
Team "LIMITED EDITION" I live for the 306 stickerSmug
Team 0-60 in 6.44 & standing qtr in 14.808 @ 94.55mph all with std engineSmug
203bhp Corolla T-Sport daily driver stealthier than Kwai Chang Caine
Posted 21st May 2012 at 21:53
pete_rallye

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Location: Yorkshire

Registered: 12 Dec 2002

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Post #23
I didn't want to say anything in case it made me look stupid, but now someone else has- Rikky, WTF are you on about?! LOL

________________________________________

Oulton Park in a BTCC 306 vid 1
Oulton Park in a BTCC 306 vid 2
Lap of the 'ring
Posted 21st May 2012 at 21:54
rikky 🦔

Location: cheshire

Registered: 28 Feb 2004

Posts: 26,794

Status: Offline

Post #24
hey i did say it was probably bo***cks Laugh my ass off at that pic - but i did read something to that effect, midlife - care to answer?

________________________________________

306 rallye reproduction decals (full sets/individual decals) | 306 b-pillar textured vinyl weatherstrips
306 slam panel esso stickers | 306 yellow / orange / pension fund red side door badges
gti6 inlet manifold badges | 306 rear boot badges (p2/p3)
winner of Extraction of toys from prams with outstanding vigour award 2009 [source: gti6 owners club]
Posted 21st May 2012 at 22:00
midlife

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Location: Colne, Lancashire

Registered: 13 Mar 2006

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Post #25
rikky wrote:
hey i did say it was probably bo***cks Laugh my ass off at that pic - but i did read something to that effect, midlife - care to answer?


Purely guessing but an engine builder may want an oversize bearing if the brand new crank he is using has been ground to top limit to maintain clearances but remain within regulationsDunno
Another reason may be down to the oil system, perhaps a high flow pump may perform better with more clearanceDunno
I'm just guessing.....

Cool

________________________________________

Get used to seeing the yellow one !!!MehMehMehMehMeh
Team 330™Cool
Team "no front end or engine"
Team "LIMITED EDITION" I live for the 306 stickerSmug
Team 0-60 in 6.44 & standing qtr in 14.808 @ 94.55mph all with std engineSmug
203bhp Corolla T-Sport daily driver stealthier than Kwai Chang Caine
Posted 21st May 2012 at 22:33

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