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displaying posts 1 to 25 of 25
| Author | Subject: Perspex/polycarbonate Windows |
 pebbles167
Seasoned Pro  Location: Melksham. Wiltshire. Registered: 08 Dec 2009 Posts: 2,516 Status: Offline |
Post #1
Wondering if these are worth getting. Is there anyway to make some myself? or is it always better to go pro when doing this sort of thing? Ta, chris  ________________________________________ 2005 Peugeot 206 GTI 1802008 BMW K1200R |
 Posted 28th Sep 2011 at 18:09
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velar
Regular  Location: swindon Registered: 04 Jan 2009 Posts: 448 Status: Offline |
Post #2
I made my own door and side windows, cost about £50 in polycarbonate, and they came out OK.My attempt at a rear window, fitted to a fiberglass tailgate was not so good though. The polycarbonate needs to be vacum formed, or it pulls the fiberglass out of shape. Seen flat sheet used OK on steel tailgates though. You don't save all that much weight with just the side windows though. ________________________________________ L reg "black and blue" phase 1 track 6 |
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Posted 28th Sep 2011 at 18:53
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judge dead
Regular  Location: Scotland Registered: 30 Jul 2011 Posts: 397 Status: Offline |
Post #3
are they road legal to have them? |
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Posted 28th Sep 2011 at 19:15
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welshpug!
Capt Pedantic  Location: Bigend, Wales. Registered: 27 Mar 2007 Posts: 25,838 Status: Offline |
Post #4
yup________________________________________ need a part number? get on here - http://public.servicebox.peugeot.comBring on the Trumpets. |
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Posted 28th Sep 2011 at 19:16
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allanallen
Seasoned Pro  Location: Buxton Registered: 01 May 2007 Posts: 1,399 Status: Offline |
Post #5
velar wrote: You don't save all that much weight with just the side windows though. It's a fair old chunk of weight once you factor in all the window winder mechanism, plus it allows you to cut all of the inner door skin out. Al ________________________________________ www.bridgecraftmotorsport.co.uk |
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Posted 28th Sep 2011 at 19:32
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judge dead
Regular Location: Scotland Registered: 30 Jul 2011 Posts: 397 Status: Offline |
Post #6
i might do this then less window regulator = more speaker space lol |
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Posted 28th Sep 2011 at 19:41
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owain
Seasoned Pro  Location: Essex Registered: 20 May 2009 Posts: 9,185 Status: Offline |
Post #7
I also made my own, just bear in mind you won't be able to open them afterwards. The rears won't be rigid enough to be watertight so really need to be bonded or riveted in, the fronts can't slide so need to be permanent also. Track cars only, fo sho. ________________________________________ Membership expiring soon, get in contact on our new little forum project. |
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Posted 28th Sep 2011 at 20:50
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velar
Regular Location: swindon Registered: 04 Jan 2009 Posts: 448 Status: Offline |
Post #8
allanallen wrote: velar wrote: You don't save all that much weight with just the side windows though. It's a fair old chunk of weight once you factor in all the window winder mechanism, plus it allows you to cut all of the inner door skin out. Al No reason why the glass can't be fixed in. so winder mech. and door inners can still be removed. ________________________________________ L reg "black and blue" phase 1 track 6 |
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Posted 28th Sep 2011 at 23:56
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pebbles167
Seasoned Pro Location: Melksham. Wiltshire. Registered: 08 Dec 2009 Posts: 2,516 Status: Offline |
Post #9
owain wrote: I also made my own, just bear in mind you won't be able to open them afterwards. The rears won't be rigid enough to be watertight so really need to be bonded or riveted in, the fronts can't slide so need to be permanent also. Track cars only, fo sho. Opening them shouldn't be an issue, the car will only be used for track days and the occasional run when the daily driver is out of action. Im planing to do some makeshift sliders in much the same way you did. I apologise for my ignorance, but what exactly do you mean when you say bonding? i was hoping to go down the riveting route, however i can imagine myself snapping the material. Ill search for some of the plastic and see what i can come up with. Cheers for the replies everyone. ________________________________________ 2005 Peugeot 206 GTI 1802008 BMW K1200R |
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Posted 29th Sep 2011 at 00:02
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velar
Regular Location: swindon Registered: 04 Jan 2009 Posts: 448 Status: Offline |
Post #10
use polycarbonate as it is almost unbreakable, perspex cracks really easily if you try riveting it________________________________________ L reg "black and blue" phase 1 track 6 |
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Posted 29th Sep 2011 at 00:12
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pebbles167
Seasoned Pro Location: Melksham. Wiltshire. Registered: 08 Dec 2009 Posts: 2,516 Status: Offline |
Post #11
velar wrote: use polycarbonate as it is almost unbreakable, perspex cracks really easily if you try riveting it Ah excellent, From your experience what do you believe would be a good base to rivet to? As using the in place mounts for the rear opening windows seems unwise. ________________________________________ 2005 Peugeot 206 GTI 1802008 BMW K1200R |
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Posted 29th Sep 2011 at 00:18
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velar
Regular Location: swindon Registered: 04 Jan 2009 Posts: 448 Status: Offline |
Post #12
As weight is key, I removed the rubber seals and used a thin foam seal under the window and riveted directly to the car. Not very water tight but not really important on a track car. ________________________________________ L reg "black and blue" phase 1 track 6 |
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Posted 29th Sep 2011 at 07:33
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owain
Seasoned Pro Location: Essex Registered: 20 May 2009 Posts: 9,185 Status: Offline |
Post #13
Yes make sure you buy Lexan, not just perspex - you won't even be able to drill the holes for the latter without it cracking. I got some thin rubber foam strip stuff and put that around the edge before just attaching it all with rivets. Then drill a hole and put a pop-it vent in each of the rears, it'll massively improve airflow through the car  ________________________________________ Membership expiring soon, get in contact on our new little forum project. |
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Posted 29th Sep 2011 at 07:44
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rikky
🦔 Location: cheshire Registered: 28 Feb 2004 Posts: 26,795 Status: Offline |
Post #14
mine don't leak too bad actually. washed it the other weekend and left it out in the hammering down rain and not even a drop got inside. that's with formed back P4P windows and the standard hinge/seal (phase1)my pop-it vents let a bit of water in but overall they aren't bad ________________________________________ 306 rallye reproduction decals (full sets/individual decals) | 306 b-pillar textured vinyl weatherstrips306 slam panel esso stickers | 306 yellow / orange / pension fund red side door badges gti6 inlet manifold badges | 306 rear boot badges (p2/p3) winner of Extraction of toys from prams with outstanding vigour award 2009 [source: gti6 owners club] |
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Posted 29th Sep 2011 at 11:55
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welshpug!
Capt Pedantic Location: Bigend, Wales. Registered: 27 Mar 2007 Posts: 25,838 Status: Offline |
Post #15
windscreen sealant ftw, no need for foam strips, no need for rivets either tbh  ________________________________________ need a part number? get on here - http://public.servicebox.peugeot.comBring on the Trumpets. |
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Posted 29th Sep 2011 at 12:29
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owain
Seasoned Pro Location: Essex Registered: 20 May 2009 Posts: 9,185 Status: Offline |
Post #16
welshpug! wrote: windscreen sealant ftw, no need for foam strips, no need for rivets either tbh Not if they're formed there isn't, if you used flat sheet like I did sealant won't be enough ________________________________________ Membership expiring soon, get in contact on our new little forum project. |
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Posted 29th Sep 2011 at 13:12
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pebbles167
Seasoned Pro Location: Melksham. Wiltshire. Registered: 08 Dec 2009 Posts: 2,516 Status: Offline |
Post #17
velar wrote: As weight is key, I removed the rubber seals and used a thin foam seal under the window and riveted directly to the car. Not very water tight but not really important on a track car. owain wrote: Yes make sure you buy Lexan, not just perspex - you won't even be able to drill the holes for the latter without it cracking. I got some thin rubber foam strip stuff and put that around the edge before just attaching it all with rivets. Then drill a hole and put a pop-it vent in each of the rears, it'll massively improve airflow through the car Great, that doesn't seem too hard. I trust that a jig saw should be able to cut through this stuff well enough? Ill go with your advice and buy a sheet of Lexan polycarbonate, hopefully do a DIY job and save myself around £1,000,000. This website seems to be selling the right kind of stuff, any advice on thickness or type? Rear windows shouldn't be a problem in this case, i have already got hold of some foam and a rivet gun. One point of concern for me is the front side windows and the rear windscreen. As i understand the front sides need to have a curvature to them if they are to fit seamlessly to the door. And as regards the rear window is it a better idea to get it done professionally and save myself from stress induced cardiac arrest? Apologies if this all seems pretty trivial, although i am a mechanic (sort of) i'm used to working with... "slightly" bigger vehicles. Which means my knowledge on this sort of thing is somewhere between that of a rock and a medium sized dog. Thanks again for all the help. ________________________________________ 2005 Peugeot 206 GTI 1802008 BMW K1200R |
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Posted 29th Sep 2011 at 16:41
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owain
Seasoned Pro Location: Essex Registered: 20 May 2009 Posts: 9,185 Status: Offline |
Post #18
I used a bandsaw, jigsaw will be absolutely fine. You'll save a shitload of cash by figuring out what sizes you need then buying offcuts from eBay - search for "3mm lexan" and you'll find the company that sells loads of it. For the fronts, again I just used flat sheet - the rubber borders in the windows will bend it to shape just fine. I just drilled a couple of rivets through the bottom to keep it in. Essentially, there's no way of doing the rear screen yourself. I've still got glass at the moment, but when I come to replace it I'll just bite the bullet and buy a preformed one from P4P - there are just too many bends at two many angles for it to work with a flat sheet. ________________________________________ Membership expiring soon, get in contact on our new little forum project. |
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Posted 29th Sep 2011 at 16:52
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pebbles167
Seasoned Pro Location: Melksham. Wiltshire. Registered: 08 Dec 2009 Posts: 2,516 Status: Offline |
Post #19
owain wrote: For the fronts, again I just used flat sheet - the rubber borders in the windows will bend it to shape just fine. Best news i have had all week, Ill go forth and do as you say, Hopefully my ineptitude will not pose any problems. i may call upon people for help when i inevitably get stuck. Next: suspension, tyres and a weight reduction! ________________________________________ 2005 Peugeot 206 GTI 1802008 BMW K1200R |
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Posted 29th Sep 2011 at 17:00
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welshpug!
Capt Pedantic Location: Bigend, Wales. Registered: 27 Mar 2007 Posts: 25,838 Status: Offline |
Post #20
i'd personally go for 4mm, its the Minimum for MSA/FIA regs________________________________________ need a part number? get on here - http://public.servicebox.peugeot.comBring on the Trumpets. |
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Posted 29th Sep 2011 at 17:09
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lewisdmz
Senior User Location: plymouth Registered: 25 Jul 2009 Posts: 504 Status: Offline |
Post #21
http://www.cutplasticsheeting.co.uk/clear-acrylic-sheeting/clear-polycarbonate-sheeting.htmlcut to order polycarbonate. I guess you could order a couple of rectangles of that stuff and then trim it down? |
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Posted 29th Sep 2011 at 17:16
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pebbles167
Seasoned Pro Location: Melksham. Wiltshire. Registered: 08 Dec 2009 Posts: 2,516 Status: Offline |
Post #22
lewisdmz wrote: http://www.cutplasticsheeting.co.uk/clear-acrylic-sheeting/clear-polycarbonate-sheeting.html cut to order polycarbonate. I guess you could order a couple of rectangles of that stuff and then trim it down? Bang on, cheers. welshpug! wrote: i'd personally go for 4mm, its the Minimum for MSA/FIA regs Its unlikely i would ever have use the car in any actual race series, Still worth going for 4mm? ________________________________________ 2005 Peugeot 206 GTI 1802008 BMW K1200R |
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Posted 29th Sep 2011 at 17:23
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306weasel
Regular  Location: Whitburn Registered: 09 Aug 2005 Posts: 232 Status: Offline |
Post #23
pebbles167 wrote: Its unlikely i would ever have use the car in any actual race series, Still worth going for 4mm? I'll go for 4mm if I ever finally get to do mine: less flimsy and much more likely give better water seal (for rear 1/4s anyway) ________________________________________ Car#1 306 HDi Meridian 5door, 133Bhp, 225lb.ft Ecosse R/R 20/3/05Car#2 306 1.4 3door track car with Gti6 power. 167Bhp, 134lb.ft Ecosse R/R 21/10/07 Car#3 Grand Scenic 1.9DCi (Expanding!) family mover. |
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Posted 29th Sep 2011 at 21:27
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cadz39
Regular  Location: ipswich Registered: 18 Apr 2009 Posts: 159 Status: Offline |
Post #24
owain wrote: Essentially, there's no way of doing the rear screen yourself. I've still got glass at the moment, but when I come to replace it I'll just bite the bullet and buy a preformed one from P4P - there are just too many bends at two many angles for it to work with a flat sheet. As owain says about the rear screen, i had one from spooks but it wasn't formed. I bolted it in but it cracked after about 6 months so I got one from p4p. Also got the rear 1/4's formed too so I could use the fitments. Cost a few moneys but it was worth it.  Dont know where i put the one of the back but i can get you one if you want. |
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Posted 29th Sep 2011 at 21:33
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owain
Seasoned Pro Location: Essex Registered: 20 May 2009 Posts: 9,185 Status: Offline |
Post #25
Depends how you want it to look. The P4P formed ones with black borders and a tint will look pretty much factory, but will cost you about £500 all in IIRC. I was more up for the "£50 all round and rivets FTW" method. ________________________________________ Membership expiring soon, get in contact on our new little forum project. |
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Posted 30th Sep 2011 at 08:21
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