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displaying posts 1 to 10 of 10
| Author | Subject: Cambelt bolt/stud |
 dangti6
aka JKshooter  Location: Taunton, Somerset Registered: 15 Jun 2006 Posts: 10,305 Status: Offline |
Post #1
Have a 137 tooth belt to go on the engine I am building, and have read numerous posts about 'upgrading' to this set up from the originally fitted 136 tooth belt.I hear you need to use a bolt/stud when fitting a later belt to an earlier engine. My engine is from a 98 car. I'm presuming you can buy this bit from pug? If anyone has the part number of the stud that I need, that would be great! ________________________________________  |
 Posted 18th Jul 2011 at 05:11
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dangti6
aka JKshooter Location: Taunton, Somerset Registered: 15 Jun 2006 Posts: 10,305 Status: Offline |
Post #2
Anyone?________________________________________ |
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Posted 19th Jul 2011 at 03:44
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24seven
Seasoned Pro  Location: Derby Registered: 05 Oct 2005 Posts: 6,221 Status: Offline |
Post #3
What do you mean by use a bolt/stud to fit the belt? Presumably you mean to fit the tensioner?Buying the belt alone is a false economy anyway, since the pulleys and water pump all wear out as well, but if you want to go from the 136t setup to the 137t then you need a matching tensioner with a larger pulley. Most people tend to go for the 136t kit as far as I'm aware because it uses metal pulleys instead of plastic. I fitted a 136t setup on my engine before it went into my 309 because it's all that was available at the time, but it didn't come with new bolts, so I just used the ones that were already there. They're not particularly stressed so you can re-use them. ________________________________________ Ph1 306 GTi 6 | RX8 231 S1 | YBR 125 Cafe Racer | MT-03 660 |
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Posted 19th Jul 2011 at 03:59
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bigbadbowen
Seasoned Pro  Location: Winchester Registered: 21 Nov 2003 Posts: 13,753 Status: Offline |
Post #4
As far as I was aware the only difference is the tensioner and that attaches to the block with the same bolt ? be it new style or old style ? I may be wrong ? |
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Posted 19th Jul 2011 at 04:00
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bigbadbowen
Seasoned Pro Location: Winchester Registered: 21 Nov 2003 Posts: 13,753 Status: Offline |
Post #5
Its not the kit thats the problem on these engines its usually the donkey c0ck that fits it incorrectly (over tighten or not tight enough) |
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Posted 19th Jul 2011 at 04:04
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dangti6
aka JKshooter Location: Taunton, Somerset Registered: 15 Jun 2006 Posts: 10,305 Status: Offline |
Post #6
I have a 137t kit with the pulley and tensioner.My engine is the older 136t style, so I was under the impression to fit the new tensioner I would need a stud or something. I am a complete donkey cock, which is why I am not going to fit it. ________________________________________ |
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Posted 19th Jul 2011 at 04:13
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bigbadbowen
Seasoned Pro Location: Winchester Registered: 21 Nov 2003 Posts: 13,753 Status: Offline |
Post #7
I wasn't saying your a donkey c0ck bud  And I'm pretty sure the existing bolts are used ? |
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Posted 19th Jul 2011 at 04:27
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dangti6
aka JKshooter Location: Taunton, Somerset Registered: 15 Jun 2006 Posts: 10,305 Status: Offline |
Post #8
bigbadbowen wrote: I wasn't saying your a donkey c0ck bud And I'm pretty sure the existing bolts are used ? I know you weren't  I'm just happy to admit when things are beyong my capability. I am sure with the autodata sheet I could manage it, but when its an engine failure at steak, I prefer to give beer tokens for others to do it. Much more piece of mind also. ________________________________________ |
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Posted 19th Jul 2011 at 04:30
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Rich E
Forum Admin Location: Hertfordshire Registered: 27 Apr 2005 Posts: 7,757 Status: Offline |
Post #9
The bolt is longer on the 137 setup. This is because the tensioner bolts directly to the block whereas on the 136 setup there is a hollow head stud that screws into the block and passes through the tensioner, and then a short bolt that secures the tensioner to the stud.Going from 136 to 137 you need to remove the stud (hex socket in the hollow) and replace with a 55mm M8 bolt (Peugeot #6922 31). The 137 setup also requires an additional stud added to secure the static portion of the spring loading mechanism. I believe they used an exhaust manifold stud in the factory, but pretty much any M8 stud / fastener can be used as long as it gives about 10mm protrusion from the block. If you're going the other way, from 137 to 136, then you need the hollow head stud, part number 0820 17, which includes the shorter tensioner bolt. ________________________________________ Rich |
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Posted 19th Jul 2011 at 13:44
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dangti6
aka JKshooter Location: Taunton, Somerset Registered: 15 Jun 2006 Posts: 10,305 Status: Offline |
Post #10
Rich E wrote: Going from 136 to 137 you need to remove the stud (hex socket in the hollow) and replace with a 55mm M8 bolt (Peugeot #6922 31). That is excellent info Rich. Thanks very much  ________________________________________ |
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Posted 19th Jul 2011 at 16:18
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