The belt snapped on my car at the beginning of the week so. I've started to strip the engine down.

I'm stuck trying lift the head off, everything is unbolted and I can move it around but the exhaust manifold is in the way no matter what I do. Does it have to be unbolted?

And how do you know if the bottom pulley is worn out? The rubber bonding is looking tired.

Any help would be great.

And just put a new pulley on regardless ? its hardly a big expense considering the cost of a second rebuild if it has slipped.

Adding to the mystery it looks like I have adjustable cam pulleys?



Looking at other people's pictures thats not right?

+1

Early cars had the 3-bolt pulleys as standard, later cars used one bolt designs

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Bye bye Sundance Kid

Don't tighten the bolt beyond the recommended torque, I found out why but got away with it.
I'd get some later style pulleys while your at it.

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205 GTI6- Rebuilt engine, lightened flywheel, lightened pulley, 307 hdi brakes, Koni struts on gravel spec springs, 22mm TB's, 24mm ARB, Roll cage, Citreon ZX rear dampers, SL434's, Xsara box, Quickrack, Pipercross enclosed induction kit.

Private work, not a prob

Sad news mate, if you need a hand with anything let me know, you have my number.

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Onward to the Edge!

Well here are some pictures from todays progress!

Got the head off and out with the manifold intact, took 3 of us and I had to bolt the lower engine mount so I could shift it back.



Crank pulley and slippped timing pin hole? Engine was a tapper before the cambelt snapped so thats prehaps why.



Bores still showing the honing marks.



Think I counted 10 bent valves?



3 of the pistons had valve dents as well as the standard cut outs.

Taking the head to a machine shop tommrow and getting a quote. I may still just replace the engine.

Yes I was a bit brutal getting the head off, having the exhaust manifold in the way did not help. Was hoping that would come out with a light skim.

I too was surprised by the gasket cost, even ecp want 60 quid just for the headgasket.

This whole thing has been a bit of a pain really and unexpected cause I have service history showing that the cambelt was changed just over 17K ago in 2010. God knows how they timed it up.

I would be changing all those valves, especially if you dont have access to the proper equipment to measure them for run out. It doesnt look like that head has been skimmed before to me. It should be ok after a skim but your machine shop will be able to tell you for sure.

Your best off getting the complete head gasket set from euro car parts. It is quite expensive but it has all the gaskets and seals you need for a complete head rebuild. Valve stem seals will also be in the gasket set, it would be rude not to do them while you have the head off and stripped down. I cant remember the name of the gasket set from ECP but its is of very good quality.

Also get a complete timing belt kit with tensioner and idler pulley and put a new water pump on while your there.

Be very careful with the head when the new valves are in, any slight knock and they can get bent very easily. Before you put the head on line up the timing pins but do not rotate the cams as this can easily bend valves too (inlet and exhaust valves may touch each other). When you put the cams back into the head make sure they are are as close to the timing pin holes so you dont have to rotate them.