You would need a monster oil cooler to keep it below 100C.

Prism guy has two coolers and still hit 110C on the ring! I imagine you would drive harder on a track compared to the ring as well since you would know the corners a lot better!

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Bang'in 7 gram rocks!
I have one gear, GO!

I don't think many people pay enough attention to getting the hot air out of their coolers or where they mount them. A 16 row should be more than capable of keeping temps down, but you have to get the water temp down too, closer to 70 degrees. That way you can run more advance and more compression ratio and develop more power/torque without fear of detonation. Everything works better and lasts longer if it's kept at a sensible temperature.

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R H Davey Welding Supplies. I sell new and used welding equipment in the Hampshire area. I take on welding jobs in the evenings, ally casting repairs are one of my specialities but I can weld pretty much anything. PM me with your requirements.

Some of my services: (See my for sale threads)
Engine mount/chassis repair
Solid Beam Mounts BACK IN PRODUCTION
Harness bars

Standard heat exchanger is on the front of the block, the oil filter screws onto it.

The cooler wants to be in good airflow, not partially obstructed behind a foglight hole or numberplate, and the hot air must be able to pass through it. Lots of people ditch their undertray but that tends to cause a high air pressure zone under the engine, which means hot air cannot escape easily. The air can't get out of the top of the bonnet either as the point where the bonnet meets the glass causes a high pressure area as the air is forced to change direction there, also there is a rubber gasket sealing the rear of the bonnet to the front bulkhead so hot air is'nt leaving that way. (Thats why bonnet lift kits don't really seem to work, plus they look w*nk) If the entire underhood reigion of the car is full of hot air then the cooler won't work even if it was 20 row. So you need to work on mounting the cooler somewhere it can achieve good through flow, maybe even knock up a cowling for it from sheet metal with a ducted exti leading to twin outlets under the car perhaps. A bit involved yes but if your 16 row cant comfortably knock 15-20 degrees off your oil temps it was a waste of money.
A fella on here has a 16 and his temps were sky high but it was stuck behind a foglight and not getting good inlet and exhaust flow. Thats why I'm adding louvres to my engine bay, fitting a nice big ally rad, an undertray and an oil to water cooler.

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R H Davey Welding Supplies. I sell new and used welding equipment in the Hampshire area. I take on welding jobs in the evenings, ally casting repairs are one of my specialities but I can weld pretty much anything. PM me with your requirements.

Some of my services: (See my for sale threads)
Engine mount/chassis repair
Solid Beam Mounts BACK IN PRODUCTION
Harness bars

I run a 19 row oil cooler, my oil has NEVER gone above 94c and my water sits around 80c, i know i have a turbo and maybe the oil going round the turbo helps, i changed from a 13 row and never looked back.

In winter i just block oil cooler off with cardboard lol.

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TEAM Supercharged Rallye

Thats a good example of a working cooler setup then. By the way, when driven hard your turbo will be glowing cherry red and doing it's level best to incinerate the oil going through it so the return oil feed will be significantly hotter than the inlet

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R H Davey Welding Supplies. I sell new and used welding equipment in the Hampshire area. I take on welding jobs in the evenings, ally casting repairs are one of my specialities but I can weld pretty much anything. PM me with your requirements.

Some of my services: (See my for sale threads)
Engine mount/chassis repair
Solid Beam Mounts BACK IN PRODUCTION
Harness bars