Firstly i know its not a 306, but as theres a good few knowledgable members on here thought it would be worth posting this up, ive started a thread on drivers about it also but wanted your suggestions aswell.


Im after abit of advise on my 205 rallye track car on the handling front. i feel like im getting to much understeer with my current setup, front seems to want to just push on when any slight power gets added. for the setup im running i think it should be much tighter...


suspension setup is

Front

205 gti subframe
205 gti arb
Gaz GHA coilovers
300lb springs
eccentric top mounts, set as far back and in as possible
Hispec ulralite calipers on 266mm discs (not suspension related but still unsprung weight)
Quiafe Atb diff

Rear

205 1.9 disc beam,
23mm Torsion bars
Gaz rear dampers
24mm ARB

rear beam was built by "Anthony" approx 2k ago and about 200 miles ago was checked over and the 23mm tb's added.

Wheels, S2 rallye steel wheels, 185 60 R14 toyo R888's, although will be dropping down a size to 185 55 R14 Yoko A048's which should have less sidewall flex and stop the rubbing on the rear arches when ive a passenger

colin satchell cage, full weld in job which goes through to the front struts, across from the front of the cage to the RH suspension turret then a built in strut brace between the turrets

running an iron block Xu10 engine


all suggestions welcome.

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230 hp 2.1 16v XU 205 rallye on jenveys Project thread here
309 3dr K20 Type R

So you are having 'on power' understeer rather than turn-in?
Turning both ways?
What are your current alignment settings and has the car been corner weighted?
I guess no spacers at all?
Front arb connected?
Tyre pressures?

Initial thoughts are soft front springs versus the back and weight distribution. Is it lifting the inside front wheel at all on power?

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Nothing to see here

sounds like you need a LSD

try removing a droplink..

FOYC

alignment issues, increase Front wheel and tyre width, reduce front tyre pressures.

what kind of rake do you have on car?

not been corner weighted.
arb connected
tyre pressures, set at 22 psi on the last trackday
well it just seems to push on rather than grip on turn in obviously the more power thats been put down the worse it is.

ive been out and measured the sill to floor heights, front is 145mm and rear is 160mm

also tried lock to lock and right it has a touch over 2 turns and left has under 2 turns. ive checked the tre's and theres more thread on one than the other indicating the racks not central.
first thing im going to do is centralise the rack and reset the tracking. was previously set to 0

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230 hp 2.1 16v XU 205 rallye on jenveys Project thread here
309 3dr K20 Type R

to be honest, i do like the quiafe diff and it does seem to help wheelspin alot but does allow abit of slip which gives abit of mechanical sympothy.

people who say there rubbish and didnt even make a difference are in my eyes clearly wrong. at combe, i can pull out of the two chicanes in third for esses and second at bobbies (abit tigher exit) with hardly any wheelspin. now a 205 with 230bhp and 750ish kg with an open standard diff would have heaps of wheelspin!!

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230 hp 2.1 16v XU 205 rallye on jenveys Project thread here
309 3dr K20 Type R

forgot to add im running 309 arms and shafts so the front track is 20mm wider, also have solid beam mounts

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230 hp 2.1 16v XU 205 rallye on jenveys Project thread here
309 3dr K20 Type R

they were around 30 psi hot from memory which worked down to about 22 psi when cold. i would run them on the road at about 27psi.
until this morning i had the standard 19mm tb fitted but fitted the shortened gti6 24mm arb earlier. on the way home it didnt feel any better or different if im honest, although could be better when out on track, im just about to book up for Llandow on the 21st of this month. Llandow being a tight technical track i want to try and improve it

is a 28mm arb a straight fit or does it require some machining

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230 hp 2.1 16v XU 205 rallye on jenveys Project thread here
309 3dr K20 Type R

ah cool, think i'll borrow the laser gauges from my brothers mate again and have another bash once i centralise the rack.
a touch of toe out could be what i require, when you say high speeds how high you talking?
probably the most i'll be pulling is around 120-125 up towards avon rise at castle combe.

yep standard 205 1.9 beam, 23mm tb's and 24mm arb

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230 hp 2.1 16v XU 205 rallye on jenveys Project thread here
309 3dr K20 Type R

they were adjusted back from hard, there in the middle of there adjustment. they feel about right on the road though.

does seem to wander abit on the road when powers on now you mension it

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230 hp 2.1 16v XU 205 rallye on jenveys Project thread here
309 3dr K20 Type R

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230 hp 2.1 16v XU 205 rallye on jenveys Project thread here
309 3dr K20 Type R

Like most needle-type adjusters they run up against little o-ring and grub screw as the 'stop', which isn't very accurate - they can be open differing amounts when set wide open. Especially as they're a straight taper and not a progressive needle.
However, shut is shut, so if you close the adjusters on the all the dampers and then wind back from there, the settings should be a lot more accurate between them.

There'll still be a bit of difference as there's always some float and wear on a needle adjuster - that's why the same setting can be slightly harder if you hit it going one direction compared to going the other - barrel/orifice adjusters are more consistant and accurate, but are more expensive to make and bulkier to package.

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