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displaying posts 1 to 16 of 16
| Author | Subject: track driving/cambelt |
 braymond
Seasoned Pro  Location: Brighton Registered: 20 Aug 2008 Posts: 1,163 Status: Offline |
Post #1
Just wondering if driving on track rather than road is likely to have any bearing on the longevity of the cambelt??My belt will prob be around 26/27k old by the time i go to the 'ring next, and all the cambelt scare-mongering that goes on here made me wonder if it posed a higer risk than normal driving? ________________________________________ Rallye-RNurburgring article |
 Posted 28th Apr 2011 at 21:02
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mark.evs
Senior User  Location: Near Bridgend Registered: 21 Dec 2010 Posts: 527 Status: Offline |
Post #2
Get it done, less for you to worry about then. it's cheaper than a new engine and the aa to recuse it from germany.________________________________________ My GTi6 track projectWhite Rallye project |
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Posted 28th Apr 2011 at 21:08
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bennn
Seasoned Pro  Location: Shrewsbury Registered: 05 Sep 2008 Posts: 2,705 Status: Offline |
Post #3
id say so, if your thrashing f*ck out of it your putting more strain on the belt. You're still well under the recommend 36K though.________________________________________ Cherry Red 306 HDIChampionship White Integra DC5 Type R |
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Posted 28th Apr 2011 at 21:12
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braymond
Seasoned Pro Location: Brighton Registered: 20 Aug 2008 Posts: 1,163 Status: Offline |
Post #4
Well whilst there is SOME logic there, if i fully subsriced to that way of thinking I'd get it changed every week...(EDIT thats in response to mark by the way) ________________________________________ Rallye-RNurburgring article |
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Posted 28th Apr 2011 at 21:13
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owain
Seasoned Pro  Location: Essex Registered: 20 May 2009 Posts: 9,185 Status: Offline |
Post #5
Probably depends more on how you drive - it'll be the sudden speed changes that do it in, slamming your foot to the floor will put a right old yank on the belt, whereas if you're tootling around gently that never happens. If you've got the money, get it changed. I'm sure it'll be fine without, but it'll be a big load off your mind. ________________________________________ Membership expiring soon, get in contact on our new little forum project. |
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Posted 28th Apr 2011 at 21:33
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mark.evs
Senior User Location: Near Bridgend Registered: 21 Dec 2010 Posts: 527 Status: Offline |
Post #6
braymond wrote: Well whilst there is SOME logic there, if i fully subsriced to that way of thinking I'd get it changed every week... (EDIT thats in response to mark by the way)  its going on a big journey tho, few miles of autobahn, then a hammering on the track, then autobahn home to. (every road is autobahn if your going to germany, even the uk ones  )on a serious note tho, did u change the idlers and tensioners when u last did the belt? it's usually them that'll fail and take out a timing belt. ________________________________________ My GTi6 track projectWhite Rallye project |
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Posted 28th Apr 2011 at 21:54
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daveyboy
aka Jim Davey  Location: Southampton Registered: 01 Oct 2007 Posts: 8,648 Status: Offline |
Post #7
High lift cams and stronger valve springs also contribute to increased belt fatigue, not sure what you are running but its a factor tt consider. I'll be doing mine every year from now on ________________________________________ R H Davey Welding Supplies. I sell new and used welding equipment in the Hampshire area. I take on welding jobs in the evenings, ally casting repairs are one of my specialities but I can weld pretty much anything. PM me with your requirements.Some of my services: (See my for sale threads) Engine mount/chassis repair Solid Beam Mounts BACK IN PRODUCTION Harness bars |
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Posted 4th May 2011 at 14:04
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braymond
Seasoned Pro Location: Brighton Registered: 20 Aug 2008 Posts: 1,163 Status: Offline |
Post #8
daveyboy wrote: High lift cams and stronger valve springs also contribute to increased belt fatigue, not sure what you are running but its a factor tt consider. I'll be doing mine every year from now on I guess its always going to come down to wallet vs peace of mind... ________________________________________ Rallye-RNurburgring article |
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Posted 4th May 2011 at 15:17
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daveyboy
aka Jim Davey Location: Southampton Registered: 01 Oct 2007 Posts: 8,648 Status: Offline |
Post #9
Every 30k should be fine, it's half what Peugeot reccommend so you would be unlucky to snap a belt inbetween those intervals  ________________________________________ R H Davey Welding Supplies. I sell new and used welding equipment in the Hampshire area. I take on welding jobs in the evenings, ally casting repairs are one of my specialities but I can weld pretty much anything. PM me with your requirements.Some of my services: (See my for sale threads) Engine mount/chassis repair Solid Beam Mounts BACK IN PRODUCTION Harness bars |
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Posted 4th May 2011 at 15:27
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rallyeash
Seasoned Pro  Location: Devizes Registered: 11 Dec 2006 Posts: 4,424 Status: Offline |
Post #10
on my engine it will probably never cover 30k. prob 1k a year road miles and 1k a year track miles. what would be the recomendation on the belt for the above? also got to bear in mind that the engine doesn't use the standard timing holes due to the cams etc im running so would need to go back to the engine builder to get it back spot on again?________________________________________ 230 hp 2.1 16v XU 205 rallye on jenveys Project thread here309 3dr K20 Type R |
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Posted 4th May 2011 at 15:30
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daveyboy
aka Jim Davey Location: Southampton Registered: 01 Oct 2007 Posts: 8,648 Status: Offline |
Post #11
rallyeash wrote: on my engine it will probably never cover 30k. prob 1k a year road miles and 1k a year track miles. what would be the recomendation on the belt for the above? also got to bear in mind that the engine doesn't use the standard timing holes due to the cams etc im running so would need to go back to the engine builder to get it back spot on again? On mine the cams have been timed up already and then the cams have a line scribed on each one which lines up with another scribed line on the head. It's highlighted in red paint so it's easy to find although I do have to remove the rocker covers to see it. This way once it's all tensioned up with the crank pinned if it's not on the marks I can just loosen the adjuster bolts on the pulleys and tap the lobes around with a wooden drift (won't damage the cams at all) until the timing marks are all spot on again. I'd say a belt change every three years if you are'nt clocking up the mileage would be more than safe. ________________________________________ R H Davey Welding Supplies. I sell new and used welding equipment in the Hampshire area. I take on welding jobs in the evenings, ally casting repairs are one of my specialities but I can weld pretty much anything. PM me with your requirements.Some of my services: (See my for sale threads) Engine mount/chassis repair Solid Beam Mounts BACK IN PRODUCTION Harness bars |
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Posted 4th May 2011 at 19:23
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phillipm
Seasoned Pro  Location: Rotherham Registered: 15 Oct 2006 Posts: 20,607 Status: Offline |
Post #12
owain wrote: Probably depends more on how you drive - it'll be the sudden speed changes that do it in This. Whilst track use will be harder on the belt - not so much the revs, more the extra heat in the engine bay deteriorating the rubber faster, although if you have stronger valve springs and higher lift cams that won't be helping - most of the damage done to a cambelt from stress is actually the shock from starting the engine, or slamming it into a lower gear without rev matching. The best thing for a track car is to keep an eye on it as you usually see the rubber starts microcracking and the teeth start polishing the flanks up as the belt compound perishes. You'd probably best just changing it every two years at a minimum. For 30 quids worth of belt personally I'd just stick a new one on whilst it's laid up in the winter for a service. ________________________________________ - Bespoke rollcages/additions/adjustments. Half cages right up to complete custom spaceframes - MSA/FIA spec, CDS, ROPT, T45, etc - PM meEmail me! Custom-made polybushes available - need an odd size or fitment? - anything from batch work to one-off pieces. |
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Posted 4th May 2011 at 19:42
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rallyeash
Seasoned Pro Location: Devizes Registered: 11 Dec 2006 Posts: 4,424 Status: Offline |
Post #13
daveyboy wrote: I'd say a belt change every three years if you are'nt clocking up the mileage would be more than safe. head will probably be off by that time with the addiction to more power... ________________________________________ 230 hp 2.1 16v XU 205 rallye on jenveys Project thread here309 3dr K20 Type R |
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Posted 4th May 2011 at 19:58
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smighall
Smeg-all  Location: b*tching and Whinging Registered: 03 Mar 2005 Posts: 10,012 Status: Offline |
Post #14
Was just about to say it's more likely going to depend on how good you are at heel and toeing on down shifts than acceleration. Basically what Phil said________________________________________  Seat Leon Cupra FR / 306 GTI6 / Breaking 205 GTI6 / Caterham 7 / Mercedes Sprinter 311CDI LWB Sold: Fisher Fury - Laguna DCI Estate - P1 306 XSI - E30 BMW 325i Baur Convertible - Daihatsu Fourtack - Suzuki GSXR600 - 205 Rallye |
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Posted 5th May 2011 at 02:12
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allye
Regular  Location: Devizes Registered: 05 May 2011 Posts: 204 Status: Offline |
Post #15
Fit a gates belt, if its fitted with the gates tensioner device, gates with replace the engine if it fails! (first post, wooooo)________________________________________ 205 Van SC'd GTI6 - because why not309 Goodwood V6 - sold 205 Rallye GTI6 - Bent |
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Posted 5th May 2011 at 04:30
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braymond
Seasoned Pro Location: Brighton Registered: 20 Aug 2008 Posts: 1,163 Status: Offline |
Post #16
allye wrote: Fit a gates belt, if its fitted with the gates tensioner device, gates with replace the engine if it fails! (first post, wooooo) that 205 looks the bees knees! get some pics and info up prono!  ________________________________________ Rallye-RNurburgring article |
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Posted 6th May 2011 at 02:31
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