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Author Subject: copper brake pipes to replace old steel ones
russbez

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Post #1
hey folks, had a search just want to confirm this.....

im wanting to replace the old steel pipes on the back of my Rallye, iv got rear beam off atm

what size of pipes do i need? 3/16" seems to be the standard size of pipes?

And using 10mm X 1mm male shoulder nuts?
Unsure

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Posted 23rd Feb 2011 at 20:12
russbez

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Post #2
found it

above seems to be right

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Posted 23rd Feb 2011 at 20:32
owain

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Post #3
I used 3/16 pipe, seems spot on Yes

Pretty sure 10mm rings a bell as well, but I just got whatever Unipart gave me, seemed to be pretty standard.

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Posted 23rd Feb 2011 at 21:23
russbez

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Post #4
Cheers

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Posted 23rd Feb 2011 at 21:23
Rich E Forum Admin

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Post #5
Might be worth checking with Peugeot as when I replaced the rear lines a few years back they still supplied the steel lines pre-shaped and ready to go. Front ones were bend it yourself copper though.

Surprisingly they were reasonably priced too.

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Posted 23rd Feb 2011 at 21:42
mr swampy s16

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Post #6
You will need male and female ends.
And get / borrow a decent flare tool as the cheap ones are crap.
A hand held pipe bender helps aswell
Posted 23rd Feb 2011 at 22:44
iplay

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Post #7
Peugeot still do the rear brake lines ready made for around £7 (prices might have gone up a bit)
Posted 28th Feb 2011 at 15:16
matt evans

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Post #8
iplay wrote:
Peugeot still do the rear brake lines ready made for around £7 (prices might have gone up a bit)


£24 for the pair when i had mine 2 weeks ago.

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Posted 28th Feb 2011 at 16:21
tvrfan007

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Post #9
Does anyone have a diagram? I am interested in the price of the one which runs in front of the spare wheel on the body. Would be good to get a new steel one.

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Posted 1st Mar 2011 at 17:36
russbez

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Post #10
two of the shoulder nuts on the brake compensator were a larger size.... don’t know measurements my mate in pug managed to get 2 of them for me

just for anyone’s reference

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Posted 15th Mar 2011 at 17:45
mr swampy s16

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Post #11
they would be a 12x1 union a few on the car,think the mc and abs pump have the same size fitting
Posted 17th Mar 2011 at 21:56
daveboy

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Post #12
tvrfan007 wrote:
Does anyone have a diagram? I am interested in the price of the one which runs in front of the spare wheel on the body. Would be good to get a new steel one.

Just replaced this on mine, it's a copper bend-it-yourself one. Runs all the way from the front of the car to the back, round the fuel tank and above the rear beam. And is a real pain in the arse to fit!
Posted 18th Mar 2011 at 00:21
buzzbrightyear

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Post #13
the part numbers for both sides are on here somewhere but i cant find them.

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Posted 30th Apr 2011 at 21:15
tvrfan007

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Post #14
daveboy wrote:
tvrfan007 wrote:
Does anyone have a diagram? I am interested in the price of the one which runs in front of the spare wheel on the body. Would be good to get a new steel one.

Just replaced this on mine, it's a copper bend-it-yourself one. Runs all the way from the front of the car to the back, round the fuel tank and above the rear beam. And is a real pain in the arse to fit!


Can't be any worse than the Rover one I had to fit to my ex's coupe. What a f**king nightmare that was.

I have to replace my hdi rear pipes as one or two are picking up advisories on MOT for corrosion. Can't complain given the mileage it's done and the winters it's seen.

I understand I need 3/16" pipe (kunifer seems to be better), M10x1 unions and a flaring tool. Hand held pipe bender optional. Yes?

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Posted 6th Jul 2012 at 17:36
phillipm

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Post #15
Pretty much, and yes, go with knunifer over copper, unless your flaring tool is a cheap s**tty one.

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Posted 6th Jul 2012 at 17:39
buzzbrightyear

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Post #16
The rear ones are available from Peugeot in steel all bent exactly like they left the factory and its much easier and better than making up our own I reckon

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andrew315rawson@live.co.uk
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Posted 6th Jul 2012 at 17:46
tvrfan007

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Post #17
How did you find this to do? Getting the bubble flare is a right ballache.

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Posted 17th Oct 2012 at 22:43
welshpug!

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Post #18
doddle, but I've done plenty.

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Posted 17th Oct 2012 at 22:44
tvrfan007

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Post #19
Haven't attempted it for a long while. Got a fair few to do and this shape is new to me. Any pics of your efforts?

Using kunifer pipe and my sealey kit, though I suspect it's me being ham fisted. did you just use the flat side of a normal flaring die to form the correct shape? Was watching a video on YouTube and did everything the same but my outcome wasn't the best.

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Posted 17th Oct 2012 at 22:53
welshpug!

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Post #20
naah no pics, it may be due to your use of Kunifer, it'll be a fair bit stiffer than standard copper so will need clamping a lot tighter, or using a decent kit not a £15 jobby.

you would need to use the flat side of the clamp to do most flares.

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Posted 17th Oct 2012 at 23:00
phillipm

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Post #21
Using a little lube on the forming dies may help, so long as you wash it off the flare with brake cleaner

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- Bespoke rollcages/additions/adjustments. Half cages right up to complete custom spaceframes - MSA/FIA spec, CDS, ROPT, T45, etc - PM me
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Posted 17th Oct 2012 at 23:01
tvrfan007

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Post #22
The kunifer itself actually reacts quite nicely, think it's just my rusty technique. I'll keep trying. Smile

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I'm Si btw Tee hee

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Posted 17th Oct 2012 at 23:17
rikky 🦔

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Post #23
glad this was bumped as i'm just about to put all new pipework on my 205 gti with gti6 MC. so m10x1 / 3/16".. handy as i remember i bought a full roll 2 years ago from CBS and never used it. unless i go completely stainless but it's a road car so probably just go with copper

the hard part = finding it in the loft. good job the mrs can't get the loft ladders out of the hatch and see my plethora of car parts stashed up there Doh

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Posted 18th Oct 2012 at 09:38

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