displaying posts 1 to 17 of 17

Author Subject: Flywheel bolts
tvrfan007

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Post #1
I have been searching and found the torque figures, but no answer to the bolt re-use.

Can they be re-used on the Rallye engine? torque is 50nm (and clutch is 25nm)? If this is correct I would assume they're re-usable?

On Rovers they always required replacing as they were torqued to 110Nm. If not, what is the part number and price for replacement? Smile

Thanks. Smile

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Posted 12th Feb 2011 at 21:35
stan_306gti6 Forum Admin

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Post #2
No need for replacement mate....

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Posted 12th Feb 2011 at 22:25
welshpug!

Capt Pedantic

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Post #3
should really, but most don't bother.

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Posted 12th Feb 2011 at 22:26
jord294

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Post #4

loctite FTW Thumbs up

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Posted 12th Feb 2011 at 22:37
stan_306gti6 Forum Admin

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Post #5
I apologise, when I was I reading this earlier I had pictured in my mind the bolts which hold the clutch cover plate on....Doh

The actual flywheel retaining bolts probably ought to be replaced, but I usually re-loctite them and all is well. After all, the new bolts will come with the loctite already applied...

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Posted 12th Feb 2011 at 23:22
tvrfan007

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Post #6
I thought that would be the case, thanks for the info guys. I take it those torques are correct? Smile

Simon

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Posted 12th Feb 2011 at 23:30
stan_306gti6 Forum Admin

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Post #7
Should be 50nm matey. Yes

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Posted 12th Feb 2011 at 23:49
daveyboy

aka Jim Davey

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Post #8
Once stretched they won't torque up the same a second time around. Something as important as a flywheel should'nt be left to chance.

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Posted 13th Feb 2011 at 08:03
bobdylan_55

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Post #9
as above. They recommend it as they stretch. You wouldnt re-use head bolts, so why reuse flywheel bolts? i wouldnt want a flywheel coming through the car personally

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Posted 13th Feb 2011 at 11:20
welshpug!

Capt Pedantic

Location: Bigend, Wales.

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Post #10
Head bolts, specifically pug iron block ones you can re-use, 2.5 transit DI you can as well.

though you do need to check their length if you are doing so, though with how cheap the pug ones are to replace its not worth the risk however minimal.

Pug flywheels tend to just sit on the nose of the crank when the bolts shear rather than go flying, unless you're particularly unlucky.

This is what happened when I had issues downshifting from 5th to 4th 2nd! in my 205 Whistle





0537 40 FLYWHEEL SCREW M9X100-22 - INJECTION XU10J4RS

60p each.

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Posted 13th Feb 2011 at 14:08
miles

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Post #11
Even when old they do that, A mate did the same in his R5T

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Posted 14th Feb 2011 at 02:21
denwar

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Post #12
thread lock and a battery gun does the trick, i never torque them on

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Posted 14th Feb 2011 at 03:51
daveyboy

aka Jim Davey

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Post #13
denwar wrote:
thread lock and a battery gun does the trick, i never torque them on


Idiot Dry

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R H Davey Welding Supplies. I sell new and used welding equipment in the Hampshire area. I take on welding jobs in the evenings, ally casting repairs are one of my specialities but I can weld pretty much anything. PM me with your requirements.

Some of my services: (See my for sale threads)
Engine mount/chassis repair
Solid Beam Mounts BACK IN PRODUCTION
Harness bars
Posted 14th Feb 2011 at 04:05
stan_306gti6 Forum Admin

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Post #14
I have to say, I would rather torque them myself...Yes

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Posted 14th Feb 2011 at 12:40
tvrfan007

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Post #15
Mei, superstar with the part numbers.

Denwar you fail. Only time i don't bother torquing is under 15nm as hand tight suffices. Hell, i torqued the hubnuts properly with a ¾ torque wrench from work.

Jim - i'm aware of bolt stretch, i'm an engineer for power station steam turbines and am used to cylinder casing M50's you have to bolt heat before tightening the cap nut and then work out the cold stretch to maintain clamping loads at operating temps. Laugh Best torque i've come across yet is 30000 lb/ft on a 4tpi valve seat using a Hytorq - made the bracing studs flex (4 M50's holding the driver). LOL

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Posted 20th Feb 2011 at 05:35
daveyboy

aka Jim Davey

Location: Southampton

Registered: 01 Oct 2007

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Post #16
tvrfan007 wrote:
Jim - i'm aware of bolt stretch, i'm an engineer for power station steam turbines and am used to cylinder casing M50's you have to bolt heat before tightening the cap nut and then work out the cold stretch to maintain clamping loads at operating temps. Laugh Best torque i've come across yet is 30000 lb/ft on a 4tpi valve seat using a Hytorq - made the bracing studs flex (4 M50's holding the driver). LOL


I was with you up until you said M50

LOL

________________________________________

R H Davey Welding Supplies. I sell new and used welding equipment in the Hampshire area. I take on welding jobs in the evenings, ally casting repairs are one of my specialities but I can weld pretty much anything. PM me with your requirements.

Some of my services: (See my for sale threads)
Engine mount/chassis repair
Solid Beam Mounts BACK IN PRODUCTION
Harness bars
Posted 20th Feb 2011 at 16:44
tvrfan007

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Post #17
Lol. M50 is just a metric stud, like M6 or M8 only 2" basically lol.



Simply put, because you have to stretch the bolt to 0.15 or so, you can't rely on torque settings alone to maintain the flange clamp loads when the cylinder equalizes at operating temps (hundreds in the HP cylinder, it's a big lump of steel sitting at room temp when you assemble it). You fit a stud hand tight, minus 1/8 of a turn to attempt to prevent seizing. You drop the casing top half on (10 tons or so lol) and then you wind the M50 cap nut down the thread til it goes hand tight. The cap nut has a hole in the top, and the stud a hole along it's length. Drop in a bolt heater (think immersion heater but for free air), commence heatage for half an hour or so, come back and carefully wind down the cap nut (it's hot!) til it bottoms and allow to cool. Drop in a calibrated meausuring rod and record the new stud length, compare to the stud's free length before it all kicked off and work out the stretch. Work out how many turns equated to what stretch and re-heat to slacken/tighten as required to achieve desired stretch. Job done, when it all heats up it'll have the correct clamp load! Thumbs up

This is a Hytorq, used for silly torque loads. The 4 teeth per inch thread i mentioned above is an ACME thread, it was 12". To resist that much torque needed a brace, it was assembled into a frame which utilised 4 of the valve chest M50 studs. Imagine 4 studs bending as the torque reaches the correct value. I have a picture somewhere on my work laptop of it.



Mental things they are, basically a glorified hydraulic ratchet.


</boring mode>

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Posted 20th Feb 2011 at 17:14

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