Post #13
The strap is made from a tie down strap that came from wilkinsons, it is just a matter of cutting a strip from the non buckle end (use a lighter to melt the fraid ends, and then double over the ends and drill a hole through the material, easiest done by clamping it between two m6 repair washers held in the vice as the material will tend to grab on the drill, another bit of careful lighter work to seal the hole but don't melt too fare to make the hole too big.
This need to be repeated on the ends that need to be clamped to the boot floor, using repair washers to spread the load and clamp against the material.
The buckle end of the strap needs to have a loop of the material made so that it will loop around the strap that is bolted to the floor at both ends, to make a T shape with the bolted parts as the top of the T, and the buckle as the upright. Mine is then covered with a piece of heatshrink to keep things tidy (maplins for heatshrink). The loop has a repair washer on each side of the loop's material, and then connected with an m6 bolt and a nyloc nut, cut down so no threads are left once it was all tightened up.
The end that passes through the buckle, that you then pull to tighten it all down, is best cut at 45% to make it easier to feed through the buckle.
The fixed loop (bolted on both ends to the boot floor) needs to be long enough when fitted to pull up to a point where the heatshrinked loop is between the rim and the bolt holes. The bolts ideally should be close to the tire edge and the single bolted strap set so that it pulls the buckle across the centre of the wheel rim.
Hope that all makes sense, with the pics. Shout if there is anything that doesn't make sense. There will be plenty of length on the straps from wilkinsons, and it will make sense to have a bit of a practice with doing the holes on some of the excess length...
Martin
martinj has attached the following image:
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