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Author Subject: brake lines
pugheaven

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Post #1
Hi, i am going to route my lines inside of my car, is it ok to use braided lines through out or should most of it be solid lines?
If braided will be ok is it best to go for ptfe (teflon) lines so i minimise the lines expanding under braking and get a shit feel with the pedal?
Might be a stupid question!!Roll eyes
Thanks
Posted 26th Jan 2011 at 05:38
mr swampy s16

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Post #2
Solid lines are alot cheaper.
Though dont look a nice or as neat once in.

For brakes you need to go for ptfe lined hoses
I can supply hoses to your custom specification all made up to suit, have sold a number of such kits on other forums.
Posted 26th Jan 2011 at 06:19
pugheaven

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Post #3
how much am i looking at to do all the brake lines?

Been looking and i can get 15m of an3 ptfe line for around £70 then about another £60 for fittings!

What make would you use for lines and fittings?
Posted 26th Jan 2011 at 15:35
welshpug!

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Post #4
Try Alex at Torques.co.uk

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Posted 26th Jan 2011 at 20:39
rallyeash

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Post #5
earls made most of my brake pipes.

speedflow used to have an offer when you spend £60+ on brake fittings and pipe they will send you a set of crimping jaws to fit in a vice free so you can make your own lines.
handy if you dont quite know what lengths you need.

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Posted 26th Jan 2011 at 20:57
pugheaven

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Post #6
Thanks, I will be making all my lines as iv already done it for fuel lines, already looked at the company's mentioned just wondered how much swampy wanted?
Posted 26th Jan 2011 at 21:49
miles

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Post #7
I tend to run solid in the car and only Flex's to the Calliper, I;ve found this allot more reliable than flexi all the way thru

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Posted 27th Jan 2011 at 00:43
miles

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Post #8
I tend to run solid in the car and only Flex's to the Calliper, I;ve found this allot more reliable than flexi all the way thru

________________________________________

306 Rallye Sptint/Race Car, 205 CTI 1.9 8v to name a few

Road, Track and Race/Rally car preparation to your personal requirements,
Full Workshop & Diagnostic Facilities
New and Second parts, from Plugs to Turbo's
We now also carry out Routine Servicing
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2012/2013/2014/2019 Class Winners at Gurston Down Speed Hillclimb & Joint overall, Class record too along the way,
Posted 27th Jan 2011 at 00:43
owain

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Post #9
Nice one Miles, you just answered my question before I even answered it, good call Smile

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Posted 27th Jan 2011 at 01:37
pugheaven

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Post #10
What would make it unrealiable? Was going to get steel fittings and only use alloy bulkhead fittings.
Posted 27th Jan 2011 at 02:14
chris with a pug

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Post #11
I have used solid all through too, no matter how strong or solid the braided hose you will still get more expansion than with solid, plus its soo much cheaper. 15 quid for enough pipe to do the whole car, plus the fittings
Posted 27th Jan 2011 at 02:34
mr swampy s16

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Post #12
You wont be buying enough fittings in stainless for £60 to make all the hoses required.
A fully made up kit, from mc to each caliper, via an adjustable bias valve to the rear is abit more than you say you can buy the parts for.
But then again the hoses are made by the a proven motorsport supplier who make fuel and brakelines for top class race and rallye teams.
Also they make them for a number of other well known companies who rebrand them as there own.
Posted 27th Jan 2011 at 03:11
chris with a pug

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Post #13
Why would you use stainless fittings? I am using brass ones all round apart from the bulk heads.
Posted 27th Jan 2011 at 03:24
mr swampy s16

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Post #14
There isnt realY any need to use stainless steel internaly and it certainly ramps the price up.
Like wise alloy fittings to pass through bulkheads, the company have loads of different methods to do this.
Posted 27th Jan 2011 at 03:45
pugheaven

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Post #15
I would only use steel ones if I was to use braided thru out, reason for that is I can get them pressed and pressure tested at work, if it's good enough for aircraft I'm sure it would be plenty good enough for my car!
The reason it's cheap is I can get the fittings from work, just hard to get the line as they use larger diameter lines and not really suitable for brake lines!
Posted 27th Jan 2011 at 04:20
miles

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Post #16
I've known PTFE hoses to split more than once, Different brands too so you cannot blame one source, so the shorter they are the better in my book and solid lines when done neatly look just as good.

________________________________________

306 Rallye Sptint/Race Car, 205 CTI 1.9 8v to name a few

Road, Track and Race/Rally car preparation to your personal requirements,
Full Workshop & Diagnostic Facilities
New and Second parts, from Plugs to Turbo's
We now also carry out Routine Servicing
www.pugracing.com

& FB Page, https://www.facebook.com/PugRacing

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2012/2013/2014/2019 Class Winners at Gurston Down Speed Hillclimb & Joint overall, Class record too along the way,
Posted 27th Jan 2011 at 04:22
pugheaven

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Post #17
Might just use solid lines inside the car and braided in the engine bay and under the boot!
Also thinking about getting rid of abs, if I keep abs and remove the load sensor I will need 2 brake bias valves? Can I use 205 standard brake bias's or will I need to get aftermarket ones and adjust them myself to suit?
Posted 27th Jan 2011 at 04:26
rikky 🦔

Location: cheshire

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Post #18
i run stainless hose completely 100% throughout my (stripped out / caged / track) car. ditched the abs; run the front line to a T piece and split it 50/50 to the front wheels, and the back i run to a wilwood adjustable valve through the inside all the way to the floor at the back, then again split it off to each rear caliper

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Posted 27th Jan 2011 at 06:05
owain

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Post #19
rikky wrote:
i run stainless hose completely 100% throughout my car. ditched the abs; run the front line to a T piece and split it 50/50 to the front wheels, and the back i run to a wilwood adjustable valve through the inside all the way to the floor at the back, then again split it off to each rear caliper


Ooh, is it really that simple? Was planning on ditching the ABS on mine at some point but haven't ever really looked into what's involved, assumed it'd be harder than that.

Is there anything else that needs doing? And how different is the car to drive, how does the pedal feel etc?

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Posted 27th Jan 2011 at 13:39
chris with a pug

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Post #20
The pedal should feel the same if you keep the M/C and yeah all you need to do is reroute the pipes, bias the rear and then remove as much of the ABS stuff you want.

At a later date if you then want a bias box will be really easy to switch over to that
Posted 27th Jan 2011 at 22:25
owain

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Post #21
Ooh, hello new task on the list. And if I remember correctly the MC has two outputs already? Does it matter which is front and which is rear?

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Posted 28th Jan 2011 at 00:59
chris with a pug

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Post #22
I dont think so as each side of the m/c does one front and one rear caliper.
Posted 28th Jan 2011 at 03:11
rikky 🦔

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Post #23
owain wrote:
rikky wrote:
i run stainless hose completely 100% throughout my car. ditched the abs; run the front line to a T piece and split it 50/50 to the front wheels, and the back i run to a wilwood adjustable valve through the inside all the way to the floor at the back, then again split it off to each rear caliper


Ooh, is it really that simple? Was planning on ditching the ABS on mine at some point but haven't ever really looked into what's involved, assumed it'd be harder than that.

Is there anything else that needs doing? And how different is the car to drive, how does the pedal feel etc?


i did exactly what i said, feels very solid to be honest and no complaints. i haven't used the car much but it feels miles better than my std 6 in every way possible

i have a standard 2-port master cylinder, exactly as said - i've used the front port on the MC going to the front lines and rear outlet to the bias valve then splitting to a T piece at the rear of the car







these are very old pics except for the last one, but you get the idea

i had an issue with the rear at MOT time being unbalanced but it was a sticking caliper

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306 rallye reproduction decals (full sets/individual decals) | 306 b-pillar textured vinyl weatherstrips
306 slam panel esso stickers | 306 yellow / orange / pension fund red side door badges
gti6 inlet manifold badges | 306 rear boot badges (p2/p3)
winner of Extraction of toys from prams with outstanding vigour award 2009 [source: gti6 owners club]
Posted 28th Jan 2011 at 03:45
pugheaven

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Post #24
Looks nice and tidy, i like your style!
Posted 28th Jan 2011 at 04:50
pugheaven

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Post #25
have you used an3 or an4 size lines?
Posted 28th Jan 2011 at 04:51

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