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Author Subject: rear coilover conversion
mart.h.

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Registered: 21 Sep 2009

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Post #1
ive been having a look at rear coilovers
and need to know if they will work ok if they are almost horizontal ?
here's a quick pic just to show how they fit the axle


advice and idea's welcome

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Posted 27th May 2010 at 19:30
welshpug!

Capt Pedantic

Location: Bigend, Wales.

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Post #2
ideally you want a fitting that screws into the back of the stub axle to accept the bottom of the damper and a turret welded into the wheel tub, hence giving a vertical damper position and a 1:1 damper to wheel movement ratio.

Colin Satchel down in Cornwall does this kind of work as a complete package, if your regs don't allow a turret to be fitted I have seen brief pictures on Allan Dixon's 306 race car, he has a build thread on here, where colin mounted the top of the damper where the original sat, and IIRC the bottom of the damper on an extended bracket located on the trailing arm.

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Posted 28th May 2010 at 00:18
phillipm

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Post #3
If they're Gaz's as I suspect they are then they won't work that way up.
And you're making the wheel travel/damper travel curve worse by making them more horizontal.

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Posted 28th May 2010 at 00:20
smighall

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Post #4
Best off turreting it if regs allow.



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Posted 28th May 2010 at 00:31
mart.h.

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Post #5
brilliant thank you folks
also they are gaz shocks but are from my kit car so wouldn't actually use them they are purely to help make a mock up Smile

welshpug do you have any pics of the stub axle fitting anywhere?
thank you both for your input

**edit** thank you smighall just seen your reply

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Posted 28th May 2010 at 00:34
welshpug!

Capt Pedantic

Location: Bigend, Wales.

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Post #6
not to hand myself I don't think, Colin's turret is slightly taller and boxier than the one pictured, also open faced so doesn't protrude into the wheel arch.

Colin supplies a damper to suit, normally Gaz as they do ones to suit and are of a fair price and quality, if you didn't mind a little extra outlay and a longer wait, I'd get an AST damper on there, again to colins spec Smile

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Posted 28th May 2010 at 00:50
mart.h.

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Post #7
sounds like a plan
thank you for the help folks its appreciated
martin
Smile

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Posted 28th May 2010 at 00:58
chris with a pug

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Post #8
Hmmm, I do like the look of that, might have to talk to Daveyboy Nicely!!
Posted 28th May 2010 at 01:12
welshpug!

Capt Pedantic

Location: Bigend, Wales.

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Post #9
here's what Colin does to mount the lower end of the damper;



just a vertical top mount at the upper end.

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Posted 28th May 2010 at 01:57
mart.h.

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Post #10
brilliant thank you
i have managed to drill and tap an old stub to see if it wass possible looks like i need to make up a spacer to hold the bottom of the coilover away from the trailing arm
then work out what springs to run
also will i need to keep the rear ARB to hold the axle together or do i need to keep a torsion bar to keep the axle correctly spaced?

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Posted 28th May 2010 at 03:13
welshpug!

Capt Pedantic

Location: Bigend, Wales.

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Post #11
you don't need the ARB at all, but will need the torsion bars to hold it all together, you can fit base model ones if you want and use the springs to adjust the spring rate more accurately, which you can do with 1-1 ratio.

getting the length and travel of the damper correct is the difficult part Wink

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Posted 28th May 2010 at 03:49
mart.h.

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Post #12
thanks again for the info
looks like i ned to spend less time on here and more in the garage now
Smile

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Posted 28th May 2010 at 04:47
allanallen

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Post #13
welshpug! wrote:
you don't need the ARB at all, but will need the torsion bars to hold it all together

What does colins set-up use to keep the arms in, I can't see any torsion bars in the picture?

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Posted 28th May 2010 at 05:23
welshpug!

Capt Pedantic

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Post #14
not sure, you'd have to ask Colin that LOL

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Posted 28th May 2010 at 13:14
mart.h.

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Post #15
allenallen if you look at the build thread started by dixon the pic oh his axle shows a torsion bar still in place, i would huess the pic posted by welshpug was taken during the build
i could be completely wrong tho Smile

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Posted 28th May 2010 at 22:45
pdd144c

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Post #16
allanallen wrote:
welshpug! wrote:
you don't need the ARB at all, but will need the torsion bars to hold it all together

What does colins set-up use to keep the arms in, I can't see any torsion bars in the picture?


ARB?

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Posted 29th May 2010 at 03:20
allanallen

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Post #17
mart.h. wrote:
allenallen if you look at the build thread started by dixon the pic oh his axle shows a torsion bar still in place, i would huess the pic posted by welshpug was taken during the build
i could be completely wrong tho Smile


WelshPugs picture is of a turreted 205, where as dixons car isn't turreted and is a different set-up alltogether.

Theres a 205 over on drivers (sarty) thats been turreted and I believe it runs without an arb and bars so fook knows what holes them together. Welshpug knows I rekon but hes being very secretive about it LOL

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Posted 29th May 2010 at 05:43
mart.h.

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Post #18
my thinking was the trailing arms need to be spaced .5mm from the axle tube so running a torsion bar would keep it spaced this way

altho as you say welshpug possibly knows but is keeping it hidden from us Big grin

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Posted 29th May 2010 at 17:25
lotek

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Post #19
surely you could hold it together with a long thin threaded bar where the arb would go and washers and nuts inplace of plates Dunno pretty simple and obvious?
Posted 29th May 2010 at 17:57
chris with a pug

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Post #20
lotek wrote:
surely you could hold it together with a long thin threaded bar where the arb would go and washers and nuts inplace of plates Dunno pretty simple and obvious?


I doubt that will be strong enough.
Posted 29th May 2010 at 17:59
mart.h.

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Post #21
plus that would just squeeze the trailing arms into the axle rather than spacing them to give clearance for the seals
unless i've misunderstood what you've put ? Smile

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Posted 29th May 2010 at 18:22
mart.h.

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Post #22
a little update
ive managed to build up a trailing arm and fit a tapped out stub axle to it
just marked out the position for the rear turrets so im going to pop and get some steel tomorrow and make the turrets up
then i'll try to get hold of some coilovers when ive got some more money saved up
again thanks for all the input folks its appreciated
Smile

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Posted 1st Jun 2010 at 02:11
welshpug!

Capt Pedantic

Location: Bigend, Wales.

Registered: 27 Mar 2007

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Post #23
ARB cannot hold the beam together, its simply an interference fit, it is the torsion bars that hold Sarty's beam together.

I don't know if Colin has done any beams without any bars, I doubt it as that's just creating more un-neccesary work tbh LOL

(you can if needed run base model torsion bars and use the coil springs to adjust the spring rate) DrSarty's car doesn't run any ARB's.

I'm not being secretive BTW, I don't know any more specific details and Colin + Sandy don't really give nay specifics apart from that it's based n what they've tried and tested based upon a few principles of how to get the best out of certain applications.

Alan Dixon's beam was done the way it was due to the Castle Combe tintops regulations that didn't allow any modification of the shell, free from any regs Colin does it as Sarty's car was done.

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Posted 1st Jun 2010 at 04:23
jonnie205

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Post #24
A just as easy way would be to throw the whole 205 beam in the skip and use a fiesta one etc. This would then take away the need to worry about an ARB and also have shock mounts etc. All you would havw to worry about is mounting it at the front and also finding a beam the correct size, ford ka one etc. i am not saying this is the right way but its another option, also save s hassle of having the needle bearings wearing out etc. You could cut the whole rear turret out of a ka and use that too
Posted 1st Jun 2010 at 19:06
daveyboy

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Post #25
jonnie205 wrote:
A just as easy way would be to throw the whole 205 beam in the skip and use a fiesta one etc. This would then take away the need to worry about an ARB and also have shock mounts etc. All you would havw to worry about is mounting it at the front and also finding a beam the correct size, ford ka one etc. i am not saying this is the right way but its another option, also save s hassle of having the needle bearings wearing out etc. You could cut the whole rear turret out of a ka and use that too


I've been toying with the idea of cutting out the independant rear wishbones from a new Mini and grafting them in under there somewhere. Ive got plenty of good strong mounting points with the cage install I have so it would'nt be the hardest job on the planet. There is probably an uprated spring and damper setup available to fit their mounting points as they have their own race series too.

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Posted 1st Jun 2010 at 19:26

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