Thoughts / advice on installing KW V1's? - Suspension Forum - Peugeot 306 GTi-6 & Rallye Owners Club

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Subject: Thoughts / advice on installing KW V1's?

owain

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Location: Essex

Registered: 20 May 2009

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Post #1

Is this a job that can be done myself, or is it one of those jobs that ends up needing so many different tools and new bits and pieces that it's best to get a garage to do it?

These are the ones I'm thinking of going for, but having never replaced suspension before I'm a little hesitant. I've read a million threads talking of topmounts, changing bolts and such things. Is it a bolt-off, bolt-on jobby or just stay away and leave it to the professionals?

Cheers
O.

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Posted 26th May 2010 at 20:43

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stu

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Post #2

I felt the same as you when I first wanted to sort out my suspension. In the end I just thought 'what's the worst that could happen?' and went for it and I'm glad I did.

Wasn't as hard as I thought it would be and I didn't need any special tools as such. Just as long as you take your time and use a bit of common sense you should be fine.

The hardest bit will probably be removing the strut base pinch bolts unless they have been removed before. Just use a BFOH and they will come out eventually. Thumbs up

Also, be careful when pulling on the passenger side hub, as the driveshaft loves to pop out of the gearbox if you're a bit too enthusiastic with it. Although it's not the end of the world if it comes out, it's just extra hassle and makes a nice mess on the driveway.

Posted 26th May 2010 at 20:51

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owain

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Post #3

Excellent, more enthusiastic replies like this please. I'm sure as hell no mechanic but I'm more than capable of Pulling a Mechano on it and just unbolting everything in site.

I hear fitment is the opposite of dismantling Wink

Might give it a bash then. Same goes for the rear torsion beam adjustment for height I assume? I've read a couple of howto's and I'm all up for ruining my car trying to be clever.

O.

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Posted 26th May 2010 at 21:00

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stu

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Post #4

I didn't have any experience of that sort of thing before I did mine and like I say I'm glad I went for it in the end. The only mishaps I had were the driveshaft making a bid for freedom and missing out a couple of washers when I put it all back together, they were easily sorted though.

I've yet to have a go at doing the torsion beam, but I'm sure it can't be that hard at the end of the day.

Posted 26th May 2010 at 21:06

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owain

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Post #5

That's what we like to hear, cheers muchly.

Anyone here lowered the rear themselves? Snigger.

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Posted 26th May 2010 at 21:25

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daveyboy

aka Jim Davey

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Post #6

stu wrote:

The pinch bolt does'nt have to come out to remove the strut, just pit a new nyloc nut on and it will be fine Smile

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Posted 26th May 2010 at 21:25

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owain

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Post #7

You see this is the thing - I don't know what a pinch bolt is. I know what a strut is and what a nyloc is.

I'm sure all will become clear when I get my spanner out.

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Posted 26th May 2010 at 21:27

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sixygti2

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Post #8

Pinch bolt is the one at the base of the strut at the back of the hub... I think...

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Posted 26th May 2010 at 21:34

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stu

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Post #9

daveyboy wrote:

The pinch bolt does'nt have to come out to remove the strut, just pit a new nyloc nut on and it will be fine Smile

I destroyed mine in frustration when I couldn't open the clamp up wide enough to remove the strut, so I had to replace mine in the end. Roll eyes

Posted 26th May 2010 at 21:56

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mr swampy s16

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Post #10

When replacing the strut rub down the hub with some very fine sandpaper to remove any rust.
Then to the lower edges of the struts smear a small amount of copper grease to help them in and out next time if required

Posted 26th May 2010 at 22:21

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owain

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Post #11

That's a good shout, I'll be sure to give everything a good clean and polish whilst I'm there.

I've ordered up some new bolts from Swampy, just need to check with KW that they actually work with the GTI-6, their site doesn't mention it specifically...

O.

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Posted 27th May 2010 at 13:53

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adam b

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Post #12

The passenger side is generally harder than the drivers side on both front and rear - the arm on the front doesn't swing down so low out of the way due to a wierd casting on the subframe and the exhaust backbox gets in the way of the damper. You can use loads of extenders to do the rear damper bolt over the exhaust when its in situ.

You can also open up the hub pinch on the dampers by putting in a allen key the right size so it just fits and turning it slightly to open up the pinch. They can be a proper git to get the damper out.

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Posted 27th May 2010 at 17:18

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owain

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Post #13

Cheers for the heads up Adam, I'll look forward to destroying my knuckles Wink

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Posted 27th May 2010 at 17:37

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khj100

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Post #14

All the advice so far is good, and it's really not that big a deal. Lowering torsion bars will be the hardest job if it's never been apart.

If you get really stuck for either tools or expertise, drop Ash (thats his username) a PM. He's local to you in Chelmsford and has a huge amount of experience with 306s (including the one he currently races).

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Posted 27th May 2010 at 17:44

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owain

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Post #15

Oh reeeeeeealy?

I think this Ash fellow might be my new best friend. Does he do it as a job or hobby do you know?

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Posted 27th May 2010 at 17:57

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bennn

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Post #16

owain wrote:

That's what we like to hear, cheers muchly.

Anyone here lowered the rear themselves? Snigger.

i did that back of mine, was easy apart from a seized drivers bar, main thing is to be carefull with the measurements, take your time and make sure you take note of what goes where

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Posted 27th May 2010 at 18:27

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khj100

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Post #17

owain wrote:

Oh reeeeeeealy?

I think this Ash fellow might be my new best friend. Does he do it as a job or hobby do you know?

No, no, just a hobby. But he's a fantastic chap and I'm sure will offer advice if it's needed.

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Posted 27th May 2010 at 19:18

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rikky Pikey

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Post #18

@ landing ash a load of earache and demands for him to come out and fit someone's coilovers, in a nice way of course Laugh

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Posted 27th May 2010 at 19:22

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owain

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Post #19

I consider this a contractual agreement that he's now fitting them for me free of charge at no notice.

Someone let him know Wink

Poor bugger.

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Posted 27th May 2010 at 19:24

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rikky Pikey

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Post #20

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Posted 27th May 2010 at 19:29

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smighall

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Post #21

Echo all of the above. One tip missed off though, is once the pinch bolt is undone, put an 8mm sump plug key (like a square drive) rotate it 45 degrees with a spanner/ratchet and the hub will simple fall off the strut, makes it much easier putting it back together too.

And then just remember to fit the top mount bolts if you put a strutbrace on at the same time Wink

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Posted 27th May 2010 at 19:54

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owain

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Post #22

This is all making me very keen to get on with this, just need KW to get back to me about its suitability for the car so I can crack on.

Cheers again everyone.
O.

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Posted 27th May 2010 at 19:56

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dangerous dave

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Post #23

Ash is a lovely chap. You'll be wanting to tap him up for a rear anti roll bar too, it'll make the turn in sharper and the whole thing more resistant to understeer/much easier to spin!

I warn you, that rear beam is going to be a whole world of c*nt to get apart, though at least it's not been screwed around with before. Still, those torsion bars have had a good 13 years to bed themselves into place.

All the KV coilovers should be suitable, As far as I know the struts on a 306 are all the same

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Posted 27th May 2010 at 21:10

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owain

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Post #24

Easier to spin you say? I'll get right on that Wink

Hopefully ordering up the suspension tomorrow.

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Posted 27th May 2010 at 21:16

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smighall

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Post #25

Also not sure how many people go for the V1's for track use, lots of people use the V2's and have great results.

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Posted 27th May 2010 at 21:22

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