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Author Subject: Track Cars for Dummies
owain

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Location: Essex

Registered: 20 May 2009

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Post #401
Decided to sack off the wiring for now, hazards are working via the old switch dangling and the rear fog can be bodged for the MOT if needs be.

Got Woodbridge booked up for the 5th of March, so best get those wishbones on; I suspect they'll make more of a difference than a couple of toggle switches.

I'd had a good look through the Wishbone Replacement FAQ, and it all seemed very common sense. I also read the instructions that Rich_w sends out with the roller bearings, but as I'd had him fit them for me both were fairly irrelevant.

Before I did anything, I finally got around to changing the spark plugs. The time saved by the previous clown not bothering with any difficult cover bolts and only using four was cancelled out by the other (same?) clown having seemingly hammered a torx bit into one of the coilpack hex bolts to remove it, but managed to get it out in the end. Rather than going through that again, bought up a bag of shiny new bolts from Screwfix.

I don't care if it's simply a placebo effect, the car does seem to run smoother now Big grin

So anyway, axel stands under, brakes off.



Need to remove this bolt at the front:



This pinch bolt under the hub:



And the other two holding on the p-bush, which I couldn't get a decent picture of.

Once they're all out, ball-joint separator if you have one (hammer if you don't...) and get the ball joint out of the hub carrier.



The whole wishbone should them come out. *Whatever you do*, do not pull the assembly towards you with the driveshaft attached, unless you wanted to flush your gearbox oil over your driveway.

It's a massive surprise that the front end of the car felt a little wooly.



Factory condition.

As you can see, there really is absolutely no difference in build quality or level of engineering between the standard Pug ones and Rich's:



I know, you can barely tell the difference. Now, if you even consider putting the crappy old bolts back in, just beat yourself around the head with the nearest metal object you have until you see sense. I popped down to the friendly bolt man down the road who sorted me out all the bolts I needed *and* new strut bolts for a fiver. No-brainer.



I got some new balljoints from GSF which luckily they had in stock, I didn't want to pre-order until I knew for sure whether I had the 16- or 18mm ones. They went on with no issue, then started putting it all back together.

The only fiddly bit is getting the washers either side of the front bearing, as they need to go inside the housing. Still, you're only talking 5 mins max, and job's a goodun:



It's then just a case of tightening everything up, and getting the balljoint back in. To make sure it was in properly before putting in the new pinch bolt, I prefer to stick a jack underneath it.



All tightened up and replaced, took it for a drive. Hard to tell absolutely on roads, but the front end certainly feels far more planted and exact than it did before. You can feel bumps and bits more as expected, but you really get a good feel for the road through the steering wheel.

Probably not what you'd want for road use, but for anyone using their cars on track these really are a worthwhile purchase.

Beer-o-clock.

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Posted 22nd Feb 2011 at 22:22
ben_illsley

Newbie

Location: Winchester

Registered: 02 Aug 2008

Posts: 26

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Post #402
owain wrote:
I popped down to the friendly bolt man down the road who sorted me out all the bolts I needed *and* new strut bolts for a fiver. No-brainer.

.


Do the originals not have the plain shank section for a reason or is it not important?
Posted 24th Feb 2011 at 06:44
daveyboy

aka Jim Davey

Location: Southampton

Registered: 01 Oct 2007

Posts: 8,648

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Post #403
ben_illsley wrote:
owain wrote:
I popped down to the friendly bolt man down the road who sorted me out all the bolts I needed *and* new strut bolts for a fiver. No-brainer.

.


Do the originals not have the plain shank section for a reason or is it not important?


It's a shouldered bolt, and it is like that for a reason. It provides better retention of the balljoint than a bolt that is threaded all the way to the head. They also locate better in the plain hole and are less likely to come loose. But I should'nt let it worry you as long as the tensile strength is the same as the original it should be perfectly fine.

________________________________________

R H Davey Welding Supplies. I sell new and used welding equipment in the Hampshire area. I take on welding jobs in the evenings, ally casting repairs are one of my specialities but I can weld pretty much anything. PM me with your requirements.

Some of my services: (See my for sale threads)
Engine mount/chassis repair
Solid Beam Mounts BACK IN PRODUCTION
Harness bars
Posted 24th Feb 2011 at 06:56
ben_illsley

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Location: Winchester

Registered: 02 Aug 2008

Posts: 26

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Post #404
ahh right cheers Smile
Posted 24th Feb 2011 at 06:54
woody.

Senior User

Location: London

Registered: 18 May 2009

Posts: 799

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Post #405
Thats a great guide owain, Ive just reluctantly paid for my p-bushes to be changed by a garage Wink once all the bolts you've said are removed does the wishbone come off or are there other steps involved?

apologies if im being dumb!
Posted 24th Feb 2011 at 08:21
eddy_gti6

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Location: Durham

Registered: 20 Oct 2008

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Post #406
No, he has mentioned everything needed to remove the wishbone. Thats the easy part, the hard part is getting the bushes off LOL

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Posted 24th Feb 2011 at 08:29
owain

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Location: Essex

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Post #407
eddy_gti6 wrote:
Thats the easy part, the hard part is getting the bushes off


Wot he sed Yes

Yes they really are that easy to remove. I did try getting shouldered bolts but couldn't. As also mentioned, only use high-tensile bolts for the suspension and braking components, anything less won't even tighten up enough without snapping Yes

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Posted 24th Feb 2011 at 15:42
matt evans

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Location: Stourbridge

Registered: 16 Sep 2009

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Post #408
Whats next then Owain?

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2006 Skoda Fabia vRS in Sprint Yellow

honestly3k wrote:
Do you wrestle for a living matt? You sound like a monster LOL


owain wrote:
Nothing involving a 306 can be considered worthwhile.

Posted 24th Feb 2011 at 16:17
owain

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Location: Essex

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Post #409
I've got some cones on order from KW to fit my adjustable top mounts to get me some lovely camber, then I'm not too sure.

Possibly more with wiring, possibly just driving the bugger Yes

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Posted 24th Feb 2011 at 16:24
matt evans

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Location: Stourbridge

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Post #410
Driving it's a good idea, I've forgotten what mine feels like to drive LOL.

Keep up with the updates, they're always an informative and ammusing read.

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1999 Astor Grey GTi-6 OEM+ (now gone...)
2004 Aegean Blue 206 GTi 180 (also gone...)
2006 Skoda Fabia vRS in Sprint Yellow

honestly3k wrote:
Do you wrestle for a living matt? You sound like a monster LOL


owain wrote:
Nothing involving a 306 can be considered worthwhile.

Posted 24th Feb 2011 at 16:26
owain

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Post #411
Cheers buddy, glad to hear someone's still listening to my ramblings LOL

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Posted 24th Feb 2011 at 16:41
lotek

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Location: Berkshire

Registered: 04 Dec 2007

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Post #412
why did you remove the brakes? LOL

the spoox ones are a c*nt to fit as you cant rotate the p bush these look alot easier. Yes
the difference when driving should be profound. it was when i first fitted my spoox ones steering feel improved and less wandering over bigger bumps Yes
Posted 24th Feb 2011 at 18:00
shalmaneser

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Location: Brighton

Registered: 22 Dec 2010

Posts: 5

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Post #413
Seriously seriously DO NOT use those bolt in your wishbones.

They are NOT load rated for that application.

Really really don't do it, I'm serious.

Go to Peugeot and buy the bolts from them, it's about a tenner for the whole set from memory.

I'm not sure how to put this more clearly.

You may also end up shagging your hub if you don't use bolts with a plain section.

You can buy uprated bolts from the 205gtidrivers group buys section for very little money.

Sorry to make one of my first posts such a joyless one!!!!

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Posted 24th Feb 2011 at 18:35
james_gti6

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Location: Goodwick

Registered: 18 Jan 2010

Posts: 528

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Post #414
shalmaneser wrote:
Seriously seriously DO NOT use those bolt in your wishbones.

They are NOT load rated for that application.

Really really don't do it, I'm serious.

Go to Peugeot and buy the bolts from them, it's about a tenner for the whole set from memory.

I'm not sure how to put this more clearly.

You may also end up shagging your hub if you don't use bolts with a plain section.

You can buy uprated bolts from the 205gtidrivers group buys section for very little money.

Sorry to make one of my first posts such a joyless one!!!!


Il second this.

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Posted 24th Feb 2011 at 18:44
eddy_gti6

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Post #415
shalmaneser wrote:

You can buy uprated bolts from the 205gtidrivers group buys section for very little money.
joyless one!!!!


We also have someone on here who provides them. mr swampy s16

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Posted 24th Feb 2011 at 19:38
ben_illsley

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Post #416
Thinking about it I've got a set I bought for my 205 which I never used which you can have for the cost of postage?
Posted 24th Feb 2011 at 22:20
lotek

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Location: Berkshire

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Post #417
Baz from here sells some stronger than standard items for a fiver i think , i have some on the gti6 Yes
Posted 24th Feb 2011 at 23:41
eddy_gti6

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Post #418
also have them on my 6, new rear hub bolts and ball joint bolts what i got off mr swampy Thumbs up

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Posted 24th Feb 2011 at 23:46
owain

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Post #419
Depends what you mean by "uprated" - these are high-tensile ones, which are more than enough for most applications.

I'd rather avoid paying My Swampy ten times the retail price for bolts if I can help it Smile

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Posted 24th Feb 2011 at 23:50
lotek

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Location: Berkshire

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Post #420
as i said darling , Bazgti sells the correct ones in high tensile for 5 quid Yes

he also does the shock pinchbolts too Yes
Posted 24th Feb 2011 at 23:53
owain

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Location: Essex

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Post #421
Might need some new strut pinch bolts actually, so I'll drop him a PM for prices. Ta Smile

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Posted 24th Feb 2011 at 23:56
welshpug!

Capt Pedantic

Location: Bigend, Wales.

Registered: 27 Mar 2007

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Post #422
its bazgtmi Smile

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Posted 25th Feb 2011 at 00:02
owain

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Location: Essex

Registered: 20 May 2009

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Post #423
Oh I see, so Rick's set himself up a similar username to steal money from people.

Think I'll report him...

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Posted 25th Feb 2011 at 00:03
owain

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Location: Essex

Registered: 20 May 2009

Posts: 9,185

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Post #424
Woop woop, push the ceiling and mash it up.

Et cetera.

Finally managed to find a place locally who have a decent selection of well-made high-tensile bolts and bits, who will sell in quantities less than a hundred. The pinch bolts I'm really not fussed about as the originals are only 8.8, but the longer ones are 10.9 so I'd rather at least have spares ready.

I'd been looking around at loads of places online - even "specialist" fixings places only tend to stock up to 8.8 grade; anything else is a special order and means lead times and minimum quantities. One place turned out to be nearly £300 to replace my six wishbone bolts, and I'd have had 294 bolts left afterwards. Could get them from Pug, but they're expensive, slow and I hate them.

Luckily, my primary school teacher girlfriend happened to spend her younger years driving around farm machinery, so suggested the place her dad gets his spares from.

One phone call and a short trip later, and oh yes. I have in my hand a selection of John Deere's finest 10.9 grade bolts, exactly as I need. Even got a spare of each, just in case.

This shit just got agricultural.



They're designed to hold combine harvesters together, so let's see if they can handle the power of a fourteen year old French tatbag.

Woodbridge in eight days Smile

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Posted 25th Feb 2011 at 18:48
daveyboy

aka Jim Davey

Location: Southampton

Registered: 01 Oct 2007

Posts: 8,648

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Post #425
Much more like it, you don't want to take chances with bolts on suspension/brakes. Care to share the supplier so we can all avoid high prices and mimimum quantities? Smile

________________________________________

R H Davey Welding Supplies. I sell new and used welding equipment in the Hampshire area. I take on welding jobs in the evenings, ally casting repairs are one of my specialities but I can weld pretty much anything. PM me with your requirements.

Some of my services: (See my for sale threads)
Engine mount/chassis repair
Solid Beam Mounts BACK IN PRODUCTION
Harness bars
Posted 25th Feb 2011 at 19:04

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