|
displaying posts 1 to 24 of 24
| Author | Subject: undoing brake bleed nipples. |
 cliff7110
Junior User  Location: derby Registered: 31 May 2009 Posts: 65 Status: Offline |
Post #1
am going to bleed the brakes on the car tomorrow and have pre soaked the nipples in wd40. its been a long time since they were last undone so do want to risk shearing them. would it be ok to use an electic impact gun to take shock them off or is it a big no no?any help would be great cheers Cliff |
 Posted 8th Apr 2010 at 20:57
|
|
|
mr swampy s16
**BAD SELLER**  Location: out and about Registered: 22 Oct 2003 Posts: 10,550 Status: Offline |
Post #2
No!I use a deep socket on a qtr drive and never sheared one yet |
|
Posted 8th Apr 2010 at 21:10
|
|
|
phillipm
Seasoned Pro  Location: Rotherham Registered: 15 Oct 2006 Posts: 20,607 Status: Offline |
Post #3
^^^ 6-sided socket on a ¼" drive and shock it loose rather than just applying pressure, 99% of them come out fine then.________________________________________ - Bespoke rollcages/additions/adjustments. Half cages right up to complete custom spaceframes - MSA/FIA spec, CDS, ROPT, T45, etc - PM meEmail me! Custom-made polybushes available - need an odd size or fitment? - anything from batch work to one-off pieces. |
|
Posted 8th Apr 2010 at 21:16
|
|
|
cliff7110
Junior User Location: derby Registered: 31 May 2009 Posts: 65 Status: Offline |
Post #4
ok will do that.so give the rachet a good tap with the hammer? |
|
Posted 8th Apr 2010 at 21:19
|
|
|
tvrfan007
Seasoned Pro  Location: In the garage Registered: 29 May 2005 Posts: 3,488 Status: Offline |
Post #5
No harm in giving the nipple a lovetap before applying your good 6 sided socket.________________________________________ I'm Si btw Night Blue VW Golf GTD Bianca LBSC Rallye - Track/Road Slag Project Thread Sparkling Silver Mini Cooper D - Super Dooper  - (The other half's wheels) |
|
Posted 13th Apr 2010 at 07:28
|
|
|
sixygti2
Seasoned Pro  Location: Tunbridge Wells Registered: 21 Apr 2007 Posts: 2,778 Status: Offline |
Post #6
Well thought I'd use this instead of my own thread.Whilst trying to undo the rear nipple, it did shear off as has happened so many times before. I want to try and get what's left out hopefully by hammering n a torx bit or something, but I was wondering if its ok to spray WD40 around what's left of the nipple with the hole going straight into the caliper. It wont cause any harm/damage if it gets in will it?  Tanks ________________________________________ Still watching you... |
|
Posted 14th Jan 2011 at 04:31
|
|
|
heliosphan
Senior User  Location: UK Registered: 14 Sep 2007 Posts: 950 Status: Offline |
Post #7
If the nipple didn't turn at all before it sheared (which I'm guessing is the case) then the hydraulic circuit should still be completely sealed I think. WD40 ingress should, therefore, not be an issue.*Awaits prompt correction  |
|
Posted 14th Jan 2011 at 04:52
|
|
|
sixygti2
Seasoned Pro Location: Tunbridge Wells Registered: 21 Apr 2007 Posts: 2,778 Status: Offline |
Post #8
No the nipple didn't turn at all! Ok, should be fine then. I guess I could just stuff something in the hole to block it if I have to. Still think it's going to a be a bugger to get out though! ________________________________________ Still watching you... |
|
Posted 14th Jan 2011 at 21:33
|
|
Rich E
Forum Admin Location: Hertfordshire Registered: 27 Apr 2005 Posts: 7,757 Status: Offline |
Post #9
Just bear in mind that if you start hammering a Torx bit into the remains of the nipple you will almost certainly break through into the hollow part and start leaking fluid.________________________________________ Rich |
|
Posted 14th Jan 2011 at 23:02
|
|
|
smegal
Seasoned Pro  Location: Leeds Registered: 26 Dec 2005 Posts: 5,940 Status: Offline |
Post #10
sixygti2 wrote: No the nipple didn't turn at all! Ok, should be fine then. I guess I could just stuff something in the hole to block it if I have to. Still think it's going to a be a bugger to get out though! I'll be impressed if you can get it out. Just give it a try and get a new one if you need to. ________________________________________ Ex SC-6Now in a Megane R26 |
|
Posted 14th Jan 2011 at 23:05
|
|
|
sixygti2
Seasoned Pro Location: Tunbridge Wells Registered: 21 Apr 2007 Posts: 2,778 Status: Offline |
Post #11
Rich E wrote: Just bear in mind that if you start hammering a Torx bit into the remains of the nipple you will almost certainly break through into the hollow part and start leaking fluid. Ok rich, noted! Its off the car as it's a spare caliper so will hopefully be able to easily catch watch does leak out or soak it up! Thanks ________________________________________ Still watching you... |
|
Posted 14th Jan 2011 at 23:50
|
|
|
Rich E
Forum Admin Location: Hertfordshire Registered: 27 Apr 2005 Posts: 7,757 Status: Offline |
Post #12
Ah cool, if it's off the car then there's nothing to worry about.________________________________________ Rich |
|
Posted 15th Jan 2011 at 00:04
|
|
|
blaze wip
Senior User  Location: Hexham Registered: 07 Sep 2009 Posts: 926 Status: Offline |
Post #13
A liberal application of plusgas, a cuppa while it sets in, a pozidrive bit in an impact screwdriver, ONE good smack with a bfh and a standard pozi screwdriver should see you right.  Dont forget to have the replacement nipple to hand before you start. EDIT: Scrap the last bit with it being off the car.  ________________________________________ mechanical_repairs wrote: i feel like giving her a good dry bumming session. |
|
Posted 15th Jan 2011 at 00:09
|
|
|
sport1901966
Senior User  Location: Hertfordshire/Epsom Registered: 17 Aug 2006 Posts: 687 Status: Offline |
Post #14
I would recommend some carefully applied heat also. You'd need to be sure you've done all you can before starting to take them off because by the time you realise its turning it'll either be ok or have sheared.Rears are definately worse, I havent had a problem with fronts so far..touch wood!.... but had a few rears go on me. Good luck! |
|
Posted 15th Jan 2011 at 02:38
|
|
|
sixygti2
Seasoned Pro Location: Tunbridge Wells Registered: 21 Apr 2007 Posts: 2,778 Status: Offline |
Post #15
Thanks for the tips guys, will try to sort it over the weekend! ________________________________________ Still watching you... |
|
Posted 15th Jan 2011 at 03:19
|
|
|
sixygti2
Seasoned Pro Location: Tunbridge Wells Registered: 21 Apr 2007 Posts: 2,778 Status: Offline |
Post #16
Sodding torx bit snapped in the sodding bleed nipple! How does that happen!!?? May try drilling it out now... I dont wanna give up on it yet  ________________________________________ Still watching you... |
|
Posted 15th Jan 2011 at 19:32
|
|
|
coskev
Seasoned Pro  Location: Oswestry Registered: 01 Nov 2009 Posts: 3,132 Status: Offline |
Post #17
Don't think you will be able to drill it out with a torx bit stuck in there ________________________________________ Red GTB1756 powered Fabia VRS daily driver,LBSC Gti6 eater........Mac1 ZR R1 kit car build in progress. |
|
Posted 18th Jan 2011 at 03:29
|
|
|
daveyboy
aka Jim Davey  Location: Southampton Registered: 01 Oct 2007 Posts: 8,648 Status: Offline |
Post #18
Nope, the high tensile Torx bit will be harder than the drill. If you want to stand a chance and you can get at it use a grinder to flatten off the broken bit, then centre punch it ecactly in the middle, if you can find a way of clamping on and securing a drill bush over the broken bit even better. Use a pillar drill and plenty of tapping fluid and you just might get away with it. Only thing is to stop drilling as soon as you have reached the end of the broken off bit. The nipples are relatively soft and if you go all the way through and damage the aluminium seat at the bottom of the hole tyhe caliper is scrap anyway. New ones are'nt massive money though so if it takes more than an hour or two it really is'nt worth the effort.________________________________________ R H Davey Welding Supplies. I sell new and used welding equipment in the Hampshire area. I take on welding jobs in the evenings, ally casting repairs are one of my specialities but I can weld pretty much anything. PM me with your requirements.Some of my services: (See my for sale threads) Engine mount/chassis repair Solid Beam Mounts BACK IN PRODUCTION Harness bars |
|
Posted 18th Jan 2011 at 03:35
|
|
|
phillipm
Seasoned Pro Location: Rotherham Registered: 15 Oct 2006 Posts: 20,607 Status: Offline |
Post #19
The torx bit is relatively hard so with cheap drill bits you'll need to go slow on the revs, plenty of pressure and make sure the tip is lubricated with moly-d or similar. If you go at it full tilt you'll just overheat the tip of the drill and it'll go soft as shit.________________________________________ - Bespoke rollcages/additions/adjustments. Half cages right up to complete custom spaceframes - MSA/FIA spec, CDS, ROPT, T45, etc - PM meEmail me! Custom-made polybushes available - need an odd size or fitment? - anything from batch work to one-off pieces. |
|
Posted 18th Jan 2011 at 03:58
|
|
|
sixygti2
Seasoned Pro Location: Tunbridge Wells Registered: 21 Apr 2007 Posts: 2,778 Status: Offline |
Post #20
Thanks for the advice guys.I did give it a go, but as you say, the torx bit was hard as! So gave up. I did manage ti strip the bits off I needed, sliders, piston etc, as they were in better nick than mine. So hopefully i'll be able to get some new rubbers and swap them over. Was just hoping I could swap the whole thing as I knew it was a good working one. Hay ho, you live and learn. As its the second time this piston has stuck out and ground down the pad, could it be the handbrake mechanism or is it just the fact that the sliders and piston are showing signs of corrosion and its not able to retract? ________________________________________ Still watching you... |
|
Posted 18th Jan 2011 at 04:28
|
|
|
daveyboy
aka Jim Davey Location: Southampton Registered: 01 Oct 2007 Posts: 8,648 Status: Offline |
Post #21
sixygti2 wrote: Thanks for the advice guys. I did give it a go, but as you say, the torx bit was hard as! So gave up. I did manage ti strip the bits off I needed, sliders, piston etc, as they were in better nick than mine. So hopefully i'll be able to get some new rubbers and swap them over. Was just hoping I could swap the whole thing as I knew it was a good working one. Hay ho, you live and learn. As its the second time this piston has stuck out and ground down the pad, could it be the handbrake mechanism or is it just the fact that the sliders and piston are showing signs of corrosion and its not able to retract? Disconnect the cable, if it moves freely in its outer sheath then it has to be a problem with the slider mechanism (Most likely this as it usually is) ________________________________________ R H Davey Welding Supplies. I sell new and used welding equipment in the Hampshire area. I take on welding jobs in the evenings, ally casting repairs are one of my specialities but I can weld pretty much anything. PM me with your requirements.Some of my services: (See my for sale threads) Engine mount/chassis repair Solid Beam Mounts BACK IN PRODUCTION Harness bars |
|
Posted 18th Jan 2011 at 13:43
|
|
|
ksung17
Regular  Location: Darlington/Aylesford Registered: 05 Jan 2009 Posts: 495 Status: Offline |
Post #22
mine were seized. and got told of a friend to apply heat which worked a treat! |
|
Posted 1st Feb 2011 at 04:27
|
|
rikky
🦔 Location: cheshire Registered: 28 Feb 2004 Posts: 26,796 Status: Offline |
Post #23
i think heating them up or wd40'ing them liberally beforehand works a treat, combined with proper brake spanners. i've never had an issue with them rounding off or siezing in whatsoever yet touch wood________________________________________ 306 rallye reproduction decals (full sets/individual decals) | 306 b-pillar textured vinyl weatherstrips306 slam panel esso stickers | 306 yellow / orange / pension fund red side door badges gti6 inlet manifold badges | 306 rear boot badges (p2/p3) winner of Extraction of toys from prams with outstanding vigour award 2009 [source: gti6 owners club] |
|
Posted 1st Feb 2011 at 15:10
|
|
|
405gti6
Junior User  Location: Norway Registered: 05 Jan 2011 Posts: 70 Status: Offline |
Post #24
Blow torch is the weapon of choice when loosening these suckers. With enough heat they almost fall out by themself!________________________________________ XU10J4RS powered 405 . |
|
Posted 22nd Feb 2011 at 21:08
|
|
The Peugeot GTi-6 & Rallye Owners Club - ©2024 all rights reserved.
Please Note: The views and opinions found herein are those of individuals, and not of The Peugeot 306 GTi-6 & Rallye Owners Club or any individuals involved.
No responsibility is taken or assumed for any comments or statements made on, or in relation to, this website. Please see our updated privacy policy.