displaying posts 1 to 25 of 25

Author Subject: Cleaning the tops of pistons
gti6girl

Seasoned Pro

Location: Dartford

Registered: 19 Feb 2007

Posts: 2,692

Status: Offline

Post #1
Took the spark plugs out of the rallye as we are having a little trouble starting it as it has not moved for a few months and notice a bit of shit on the tops of the pistons. Is there any way to remove this while the engine is still together?

cheers
Posted 14th Feb 2010 at 23:18
mr swampy s16

**BAD SELLER**

Location: out and about

Registered: 22 Oct 2003

Posts: 10,550

Status: Offline

Post #2
Pour some redex down the hole.
Leave for half an hour, cover the plug holes with rags and crank the engine over.
Refit the plugs and start the engine.
Will be alot of smoketand crap out the back but it soon goes.
Its what we used to do on the old a series and pinto engines to de coke them
Posted 15th Feb 2010 at 01:06
gti6girl

Seasoned Pro

Location: Dartford

Registered: 19 Feb 2007

Posts: 2,692

Status: Offline

Post #3
And that will be fine to do on my
Posted 15th Feb 2010 at 02:21
t0mt0m

Regular

Location: Truro

Registered: 18 Jan 2010

Posts: 495

Status: Offline

Post #4
gti6girl wrote:
And that will be fine to do on my

________________________________________

1997 Diablo Red 1.6 xs! crashed and scrapped!
1998 Nile blue Gti 6
1999 Yamaha R6! maybe for sale soonish still in two minds!
Posted 15th Feb 2010 at 02:50
fletch

Track Head

Location: The nearest Shell garage

Registered: 12 Jun 2004

Posts: 12,273

Status: Offline

Post #5
Bloody hell
Posted 15th Feb 2010 at 03:12
chrisd306

Seasoned Pro

Location: Perth Scotland

Registered: 26 Nov 2005

Posts: 10,061

Status: Offline

Post #6
is it your rallye in performance french car?

________________________________________

In my garage just now

2003 BMW M3 & 2009 L200 Raging Bull
& Audi Q5 S Line
AX stock rod & Saxo Stock rod
Sold the bike an charged rallye an bought a caravan, midlife crisis or what!
Posted 15th Feb 2010 at 03:13
mabgti

NV motors

Location: Bham tunnel @7400rpm

Registered: 28 Aug 2003

Posts: 9,127

Status: Offline

Post #7
that the touring car engine that was at usc?

________________________________________

Team Supercharged Gti-6

NV Motorsport
Automotive Performance Tuning
0121 448 7515
ECU Remapping/ DPF removal
VAG/BMW Diag and Option Coding
Peugeot Planet ECU coding/transponder programming etc
www.nvmotorsport.com
Facebook Page
Project S6
Posted 15th Feb 2010 at 03:19
jeffers Forum Admin

Location: Leeds

Registered: 14 Dec 2003

Posts: 3,702

Status: Offline

Post #8
mabgti wrote:
that the touring car engine that was at usc?

I believe it will be, ex works engine IIRC.....Unsure

________________________________________

Team Running Engine again!
Team Negative Camber!
My Budget track engine build thread!
Now appearing at a Trackday near you!!Hyper Hyper
Posted 15th Feb 2010 at 03:25
chrisd306

Seasoned Pro

Location: Perth Scotland

Registered: 26 Nov 2005

Posts: 10,061

Status: Offline

Post #9
theers a mint 205 Rallye in french car this month, 274bhp longmans gti6 engine on bodies, looks good.

________________________________________

In my garage just now

2003 BMW M3 & 2009 L200 Raging Bull
& Audi Q5 S Line
AX stock rod & Saxo Stock rod
Sold the bike an charged rallye an bought a caravan, midlife crisis or what!
Posted 15th Feb 2010 at 03:42
gti6girl

Seasoned Pro

Location: Dartford

Registered: 19 Feb 2007

Posts: 2,692

Status: Offline

Post #10
Yes that's ours.

It's just like black deposits but it looks quite thick

the engines were 12.5k back in the day and you can't get a car for less the around 15k
Posted 15th Feb 2010 at 04:02
fletch

Track Head

Location: The nearest Shell garage

Registered: 12 Jun 2004

Posts: 12,273

Status: Offline

Post #11
Carbon deposits then, you running the correct plugs?
Posted 15th Feb 2010 at 04:21
gti6girl

Seasoned Pro

Location: Dartford

Registered: 19 Feb 2007

Posts: 2,692

Status: Offline

Post #12
Indeed, I just want to know if there is a way of getting it off
Posted 15th Feb 2010 at 04:23
rikky 🦔

Location: cheshire

Registered: 28 Feb 2004

Posts: 26,796

Status: Offline

Post #13
redex

________________________________________

306 rallye reproduction decals (full sets/individual decals) | 306 b-pillar textured vinyl weatherstrips
306 slam panel esso stickers | 306 yellow / orange / pension fund red side door badges
gti6 inlet manifold badges | 306 rear boot badges (p2/p3)
winner of Extraction of toys from prams with outstanding vigour award 2009 [source: gti6 owners club]
Posted 15th Feb 2010 at 05:14
adam b

Seasoned Pro

Location: The Nam

Registered: 24 Jan 2006

Posts: 12,828

Status: Offline

Post #14
sounds like its running too rich when cold, wouldnt bother trying to clean anything as you're likely to get crap down the side of the bores, last thing you want with and engine that expensive.

________________________________________

Nothing to see here
Posted 15th Feb 2010 at 05:34
gti6girl

Seasoned Pro

Location: Dartford

Registered: 19 Feb 2007

Posts: 2,692

Status: Offline

Post #15
well we did not map it at -1 and thats what it is here so maybe that has something to do with it, the plugs do get wet very quickly and i never had this problem all though 2009 show season
Posted 15th Feb 2010 at 11:43
pete_rallye

Seasoned Pro

Location: Yorkshire

Registered: 12 Dec 2002

Posts: 5,253

Status: Offline

Post #16
Just thrash the bo***cks off it. These engines get carbon'd up very quickly if left idling or driven normally. They run really rich, especially when its cold. You need to give em a good thrashing to burn all the carbon off. Not sure why but Mr Longman seems to map them this way, must be a reason for it. I used to have to clean my plugs to get it to start after it was run for a short period especially during the cold weather. The plugs don't help either mind.

________________________________________

Oulton Park in a BTCC 306 vid 1
Oulton Park in a BTCC 306 vid 2
Lap of the 'ring
Posted 15th Feb 2010 at 13:00
daveyboy

aka Jim Davey

Location: Southampton

Registered: 01 Oct 2007

Posts: 8,648

Status: Offline

Post #17
pete_rallye wrote:
Just thrash the bo***cks off it. These engines get carbon'd up very quickly if left idling or driven normally. They run really rich, especially when its cold. You need to give em a good thrashing to burn all the carbon off. Not sure why but Mr Longman seems to map them this way, must be a reason for it. I used to have to clean my plugs to get it to start after it was run for a short period especially during the cold weather. The plugs don't help either mind.


I was going to suggest you stop driving like a girl but looks like somone beat me to it...Wink LOL

________________________________________

R H Davey Welding Supplies. I sell new and used welding equipment in the Hampshire area. I take on welding jobs in the evenings, ally casting repairs are one of my specialities but I can weld pretty much anything. PM me with your requirements.

Some of my services: (See my for sale threads)
Engine mount/chassis repair
Solid Beam Mounts BACK IN PRODUCTION
Harness bars
Posted 15th Feb 2010 at 13:07
daveyboy

aka Jim Davey

Location: Southampton

Registered: 01 Oct 2007

Posts: 8,648

Status: Offline

Post #18
daveyboy wrote:
pete_rallye wrote:
Just thrash the bo***cks off it. These engines get carbon'd up very quickly if left idling or driven normally. They run really rich, especially when its cold. You need to give em a good thrashing to burn all the carbon off. Not sure why but Mr Longman seems to map them this way, must be a reason for it. I used to have to clean my plugs to get it to start after it was run for a short period especially during the cold weather. The plugs don't help either mind.


I was going to suggest you stop driving like a girl but looks like somone beat me to it...Wink LOL


As far as I'm led to believe, Longmans used to live map their cars on the road? Would there be any benefit in having a mapping session on a rolling road? If it is running too rich at lower RPM could this not be likely to cause bore wash and premature wear? Even if they leaned off the low speed running settings a little it might help? Do you have an AFR guage in the car?

________________________________________

R H Davey Welding Supplies. I sell new and used welding equipment in the Hampshire area. I take on welding jobs in the evenings, ally casting repairs are one of my specialities but I can weld pretty much anything. PM me with your requirements.

Some of my services: (See my for sale threads)
Engine mount/chassis repair
Solid Beam Mounts BACK IN PRODUCTION
Harness bars
Posted 15th Feb 2010 at 15:54
gti6girl

Seasoned Pro

Location: Dartford

Registered: 19 Feb 2007

Posts: 2,692

Status: Offline

Post #19
No.

The car does get thrashed but is off the road for the winter. We have just fixed our charging problem and was just having difficulty starting it up. When it's back on the road we will take it for a spin
Posted 15th Feb 2010 at 18:25
ryangti6

Seasoned Pro

Location: Pontypool

Registered: 01 Sep 2006

Posts: 1,839

Status: Offline

Post #20
What did the actual plugs look like then? I would go off these as an indication to how its running rather than the colour of the piston tops.
If the plugs look fine then all should be good cumbustion wise surely.

________________________________________

Ryan
Posted 15th Feb 2010 at 21:17
pete_rallye

Seasoned Pro

Location: Yorkshire

Registered: 12 Dec 2002

Posts: 5,253

Status: Offline

Post #21
The difficulty you're having starting it is because the map chucks in loads of fuel when its cold.The race plugs don't like this, it f*cks them pretty quick. You need to either start it on standard plugs and get it warmed up, or my preferred method is to blow torch the race plugs then put them in whilst there hot and start it up. Don't keep trying to start it, it'll backfire lots and you'll kill the plugs.

Yes the running rich at low rpm can cause bore wash and usually the oil stinks of petrol after not long. Its usually just on start up it causes a problem though. Its because the air speed with the throttle bodies on turnover is so low you need a lots of fuel to get it into the cylinders. Usually though you start it and hold it at about 2.5k rpm to get it up to temp. Bare in mind it is a race engine and not really designed for everyday use.

Oh, I also fitted a diesel starter which improved things considerably.

________________________________________

Oulton Park in a BTCC 306 vid 1
Oulton Park in a BTCC 306 vid 2
Lap of the 'ring
Posted 15th Feb 2010 at 21:37
gti6girl

Seasoned Pro

Location: Dartford

Registered: 19 Feb 2007

Posts: 2,692

Status: Offline

Post #22
Thanks pete.

The plugs are like new just wet and when dried just get wet very quickly.

Think I might get some standard plugs then

thanks for the help
Posted 16th Feb 2010 at 03:50
daveyboy

aka Jim Davey

Location: Southampton

Registered: 01 Oct 2007

Posts: 8,648

Status: Offline

Post #23
pete_rallye wrote:
The difficulty you're having starting it is because the map chucks in loads of fuel when its cold.The race plugs don't like this, it f*cks them pretty quick. You need to either start it on standard plugs and get it warmed up, or my preferred method is to blow torch the race plugs then put them in whilst there hot and start it up. Don't keep trying to start it, it'll backfire lots and you'll kill the plugs.

Yes the running rich at low rpm can cause bore wash and usually the oil stinks of petrol after not long. Its usually just on start up it causes a problem though. Its because the air speed with the throttle bodies on turnover is so low you need a lots of fuel to get it into the cylinders. Usually though you start it and hold it at about 2.5k rpm to get it up to temp. Bare in mind it is a race engine and not really designed for everyday use.

Oh, I also fitted a diesel starter which improved things considerably.


I know when we start the classic Formula 2 (Tuned 2 litre 16 Toyota engines mostly) you have to keep revving them up and down up to 2.5K or so to a keep the oil splash going to lube the cams, but also to warm them through faster as they foul up very soon if left to idle for more than a few seconds. Is your map adjustable? ie. can you turn down the cranking enrichment a little? You will know if you have gone too far leaning of the idling mixture as it will start to spit and splutter.

________________________________________

R H Davey Welding Supplies. I sell new and used welding equipment in the Hampshire area. I take on welding jobs in the evenings, ally casting repairs are one of my specialities but I can weld pretty much anything. PM me with your requirements.

Some of my services: (See my for sale threads)
Engine mount/chassis repair
Solid Beam Mounts BACK IN PRODUCTION
Harness bars
Posted 16th Feb 2010 at 22:42
pete_rallye

Seasoned Pro

Location: Yorkshire

Registered: 12 Dec 2002

Posts: 5,253

Status: Offline

Post #24
The map will have a compensation map to account for cold air/coolant temps, maybe it compensates too much?! I guess you could get into the map and change it but I know Longmans lock their ecu's so you cannot alter them.

I know Sandy likes to run the bodies upside down to try and stop the fuel dropping out of the air, not sure if this would also help with the start up but guess it might do? Actually he usually also runs 8 injectors, so will probably use the ones in the normal position for starting as their nice and close to the valves.

________________________________________

Oulton Park in a BTCC 306 vid 1
Oulton Park in a BTCC 306 vid 2
Lap of the 'ring
Posted 17th Feb 2010 at 03:16
sandy

Junior User

Location: Truro

Registered: 02 Oct 2005

Posts: 70

Status: Offline

Post #25
It's an oddity of Engine Dyno mapped engines, that part throttle etc is usually rich when fitted in the car. Possibly the case here. I've never figured out why, but the map should be checked in the car anyway if you want it to be right, even then what you see in the rollers will be slightly different to out on the road/track!
Posted 10th Mar 2010 at 12:19

All times are GMT. The time is now 06:25

The Peugeot GTi-6 & Rallye Owners Club - ©2024 all rights reserved.

Please Note: The views and opinions found herein are those of individuals, and not of The Peugeot 306 GTi-6 & Rallye Owners Club or any individuals involved.
No responsibility is taken or assumed for any comments or statements made on, or in relation to, this website. Please see our updated privacy policy.