What fluid the track guys use? - Brakes Forum - Peugeot 306 GTi-6 & Rallye Owners Club

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Subject: What fluid the track guys use?

chrisd306

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Post #1

Ive went for this stuff, its 7i0 performance motor sport Racing its only dot4 but my mate uses it in most his rally cars he looks after and has burnt a set of mintex 1144's before its boiled the fluid, so hoping that it works better than the shite i had in before.

Dry boiling point Exceeds 300oC (572oF)
Wet boiling point Exceeds 195oC (383oF)

anyone heard of it??

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Posted 19th Jan 2010 at 16:11

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cosmic spanner

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Post #2

never heard of it, but that's not to say it isn't any good. Figures are OK.

One of the absolute best is Castrol SRF (320

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Posted 19th Jan 2010 at 16:51

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SteviePut

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Post #3

Have a look here The third one down has a wet boiling point of over 400 degrees Celsius Shock

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Posted 19th Jan 2010 at 16:50

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cosmic spanner

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Post #4

SteviePut wrote:

Have a look here The third one down has a wet boiling point of over 400 degrees Celsius Shock

That is cheap. But it says the wet boiling point is 417 F = 214 *C

Not that that's bad!

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Posted 19th Jan 2010 at 16:53

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SteviePut

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Post #5

cosmic spanner wrote:

SteviePut wrote:

Have a look here The third one down has a wet boiling point of over 400 degrees Celsius Shock

That is cheap. But it says the wet boiling point is 417 F = 214 *C

Not that that's bad!

Miss read that one LOL

The second one in is 310 degrees C tho Smile

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Posted 19th Jan 2010 at 16:56

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iplay

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Post #6

I use Castrol SRF (from Opie Oils - they do special offers once per year-ish) ... it is expensive but with so many 1 in 3 inclines creating 'glow in the dark' discs I feel it is money well spent.

Castrol do three grades of Brake fluid. The middle grade is also very good for fast road use and is required to flush out old fluid before upgrading to SRF.

Think of SRF as less than a tank of fuel that lasts 18 months ... I am happy to do 300 miles less out of 9000 miles to have brakes that work well when it counts.

Posted 19th Jan 2010 at 17:04

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chrisd306

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Post #7

That castrol 1 that is over 50 quid a litre i can get for 28quid a litre and this stuff ive bought was only 6.50 a litre and the guy says he uses it on 10 of the rally cars he prepares an the castrol on 1 but thats coz the brakes are mental. will give this a go and see what like it is hope its ok like.

________________________________________

In my garage just now

2003 BMW M3 & 2009 L200 Raging Bull
& Audi Q5 S Line
AX stock rod & Saxo Stock rod
Sold the bike an charged rallye an bought a caravan, midlife crisis or what!

Posted 19th Jan 2010 at 17:08

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vts_tibi

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Post #8

I use Motul RBF 660

dry boiling point: 325

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Posted 19th Jan 2010 at 20:37

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smighall

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Post #9

I used to use Agip 5.1 in the 205.

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Posted 19th Jan 2010 at 20:46

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steve h gti-6

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Post #10

I use AP DOT 5.1 in mine through my Tarox 6pots and 310mm discs and that works top notch and has not let me down.

Good for the money and can be as little as

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Posted 19th Jan 2010 at 21:16

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SteviePut

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Post #11

Was going to ask what is meant by Wet and Dry boiling points but decided to Google it instead. This maybe of some interest to some of you that don't know it all Whistle

Clicky

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Posted 19th Jan 2010 at 22:06

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cosmic spanner

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Post #12

Or quote it here, so people who search in future..? I figured since we were quoting these temperatures we knew what we were talking about?! Wink

DRY BOILING POINT
The temperatures that brake fluid will boil with no water present in the system.

WET BOILING POINT
The minimum temperatures that brake fluids will begin to boil when the brake system contains 3% water by volume of the system.

Unless it's a race car and you're replacing the fluid super-often, it's the wet boiling point that you're probably most interested in as water will get in to the system over time Wink

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..Liberty is a well-armed lamb contesting the vote.

Project é - my 306 project thread.

Posted 19th Jan 2010 at 22:26

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fletch

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Post #13

smighall wrote:

I used to use Agip 5.1 in the 205.

Same here, use it on track and not experienced any boiled fluid although I changed the fluid quite often.

Posted 19th Jan 2010 at 22:34

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pete_rallye

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Post #14

Boiling points are only half the story. I used to use AP's stuff, but after changing to ATE Super Blue, or Racing blue I now use that. The pedal feel with the blue fluid is miles better than with the AP stuff, and pedal feel is at least if not more important than boiling points.

I also have some Millers stuff I got cheap which I will try soon.

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Posted 20th Jan 2010 at 00:42

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fletch

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Post #15

pete_rallye wrote:

Really? I wouldnt have thought it would be such a noticable change, defintely not down to the bleeding pete?

Posted 20th Jan 2010 at 02:08

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pdd144c

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Post #16

AP551 for road use or AP600 for track/race.

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Posted 20th Jan 2010 at 02:29

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iplay

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Post #17

fletch wrote:

pete_rallye wrote:

Really? I wouldnt have thought it would be such a noticable change, defintely not down to the bleeding pete?

The Castrol SRF made a massive difference to the pedal feel compared to the Castrol fast response (which was used for 2 weeks before). Brake pedal feels like it is connected to the pads.

Posted 20th Jan 2010 at 17:14

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fbmmart

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Location: Brixham

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Post #18

I use Halfords Motorsport fluid, cheap as chips on trade to, just replace it frequently.

I've experienced absolutely no problems with back to back laps at the Ring F1 circuit and Nordschleife using this fluid with standard calipers and discs.

Posted 21st Jan 2010 at 00:10

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farmer

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Post #19

Just changed mine from the Halfords race (dot4) to RBF600.

Never really had any problems with the Halfords stuff when its fresh, even with high temps on track, but after a trackday it needed flushing.

Was either going to use ATE super blue or RBF600 this time as I had heard good things about both, so it just came down to what I could get hold of the easiest.
RBF600 was

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Posted 21st Jan 2010 at 02:27

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buzzbrightyear

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Post #20

just bouight the halfords race stuff , quite dear also

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Posted 21st Jan 2010 at 15:08

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chrisd306

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Post #21

this is what i used will find out how good it is sunday, oh and its free as it was just for me to try so thats a bonus if its shite

________________________________________

In my garage just now

2003 BMW M3 & 2009 L200 Raging Bull
& Audi Q5 S Line
AX stock rod & Saxo Stock rod
Sold the bike an charged rallye an bought a caravan, midlife crisis or what!

Posted 22nd Jan 2010 at 06:07

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phillipm

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Post #22

I like RBF600 myself, always seem to get a great pedal from it.
Saying that, I'm trying some ultra-low viscosity stuff from Wilwood atm, and that seems to be even better pedal-wise, but it's not rated as high when wet.

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Posted 22nd Jan 2010 at 06:13

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chrisd306

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Post #23

i dont get this wet and dry stuff whats it mean??

i need to get discs from wilwood and pads from miles gonna be expensive im guessing!!

________________________________________

In my garage just now

2003 BMW M3 & 2009 L200 Raging Bull
& Audi Q5 S Line
AX stock rod & Saxo Stock rod
Sold the bike an charged rallye an bought a caravan, midlife crisis or what!

Posted 22nd Jan 2010 at 06:28

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phillipm

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Post #24

Dry boiling point is when the fluid is fresh and new - meaning the fluid hasn't absorbed any moisture, wet boiling point is for when the fluid is saturated with moisture - which generally, depending on the fluid and braking conditions, is anywhere from about 6months to ~3 years.

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Posted 22nd Jan 2010 at 06:54

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chrisd306

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Post #25

got you now mate cheers

________________________________________

In my garage just now

2003 BMW M3 & 2009 L200 Raging Bull
& Audi Q5 S Line
AX stock rod & Saxo Stock rod
Sold the bike an charged rallye an bought a caravan, midlife crisis or what!

Posted 22nd Jan 2010 at 07:13

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