With regards to QEP are they helping you with the engine rebuild or just machining the parts?
How tough would you rate the rebuild? Ever done one before?
________________________________________
Just Drive It
|
Author | Subject: 205 Mi16 Rebuild/Conversion [Lots of Pictures] |
rallyestyle
Seasoned Pro Location: London Registered: 23 Jul 2003 Posts: 14,990 Status: Offline |
Post #26
This is looking smart Geoff Are you doing it in Epsom?With regards to QEP are they helping you with the engine rebuild or just machining the parts? How tough would you rate the rebuild? Ever done one before? ________________________________________ Just Drive It |
Posted 30th Sep 2009 at 18:11
|
sport1901966
Senior User Location: Hertfordshire/Epsom Registered: 17 Aug 2006 Posts: 687 Status: Offline |
Post #27
chris_944 wrote: Sport, I don't suppose you have sourced new mounting bolts for the front bumper yet have you? taken the rear bumper off myself and can't find any replacement bolts for the ones I had to grind off. Cheers.... Great job by the way!! Thanks Chris, I managed to get 2 of the three components from pug, the slider and bolt I think (not had a close look yet) but the rubber buffer type thing is not being manufactured anymore which doesn't make a lot of sense buy hey . I found what I needed by having a look at the diagrams on servicebox (see the FAQ section) so maybe try there, you'll be able to get part numbers too. rallyestyle wrote: This is looking smart Geoff Are you doing it in Epsom? With regards to QEP are they helping you with the engine rebuild or just machining the parts? How tough would you rate the rebuild? Ever done one before? Thanks, yep all on my parents driveway in epsom QEP are mainly sorting all the machining for me, I wouldn't have had any problems with the head but got Matt to assemble it for me for the sake of time and keeping it clean. I decided to do the bottom end myself, I've not rebuilt an engine before so jumping in the deep end a bit but it seems the best way to learn - it's all about experience in my opinion. It's also good as I'm doing a motorsport engineering degree at uni and the practical experience makes all the difference! As far as toughness goes so far it's been no problems but I think the hardest bit is next. For me it's been all about being systematic - lots of pics (as you can see ) and notes to myself as I go along. Just the bottom end rebuild I am a bit nervous about, just wanna get stuck in now (still waiting for block to be decked)! |
Posted 30th Sep 2009 at 20:01
|
sport1901966
Senior User Location: Hertfordshire/Epsom Registered: 17 Aug 2006 Posts: 687 Status: Offline |
Post #28
Not really an update but a question for those that may know!I have an XU10 sump,oil pump, 26 tooth sprocket and the associated chain. Is there any reason not to use the pump? - only it has the oil pump baffle and will also have the 6 bar spring Thanks guys, will be getting a few more pics over the weekend. Engine re-assembly is slightly delayed though, should have the bottom end back from decking and liner skimming next week hopefully! |
Posted 3rd Oct 2009 at 05:35
|
sport1901966
Senior User Location: Hertfordshire/Epsom Registered: 17 Aug 2006 Posts: 687 Status: Offline |
Post #29
Well time for another update on the back of last weekends work. Between the when I wrote the list of to do's earlier in the thread and the weekend a few more jobs had found their way onto the list:- Replace droplinks and wishbones - Sort fuel supply - i.e filter/hose (as my Mi manifold didn't come with any)/banjo etc - Calibrate Pressure switch and incorporate wiring into the loom - Fix rust hole on offside wheelarch - Paint exhaust manifold I got an early start saturday morning but didn't have much success, I started trying to tackle what I thought were going to be the biggest/most time consuming problems - track rod ends, fuel supply and sorting the rest of the sheared bolts/studs etc in the bay. I eventually got one of the track rod ends off, but I had to use my full bodyweight to turn it right up to the last three threads. This ruined the threads and I knew I'd never get the new TREs back in - new track rods to be ordered! The track rods are removed by pulling back the bellows (not easy!) then using a set of these- To undo the track rods by the black balljoint socket as seen below I had no luck finding anything for the fuel supply but found some hose reducers (10mm to 8mm) on ebay so bought them and bought some 10mm pipe that way I can use the standard filter or switch to another filter (I thought about the custom banjo but then I'd be stuck with the bulky standard filter). Once I had sorted the rest of the ruined bolts/threads etc I moved onto straightening the offside headlight panel and wing. First thing I whipped off the wing, no sealant so must have been off before! Then using a combination of wooden blocks and a rubber mallet I got it straightened out, ensuring the wing/bumper mounting points were right by using a spare wing I had as a template. So here is a before and after: The last thing I did saturday was strip down the inlet manifold ready for cleaning and painting The oil filler pipe has a massive split in it. Does anyone know the best place to get a replacement? |
Posted 7th Oct 2009 at 01:53
|
sport1901966
Senior User Location: Hertfordshire/Epsom Registered: 17 Aug 2006 Posts: 687 Status: Offline |
Post #30
Sunday things progressed much better. I got the low oil pressure switch I ordered from thinkauto calibrated. I used a bike inner tube cut into a section with the valve at one end. I used a jubilee clip to clamp and seal the tube by the valve, I fed the rest of the tube through an old bit of coolant pipe (to stop the tube expanding to the point of exploding) and clamped the other open end around the pressure switch - I used duck tape to stop any other exposed tube over-inflating. I wired the switch through a bulb and battery and then pumped the pressure up to about 30 psi using a pump with a pressure gauge. Quite conveniently there was a very slight air leak so the pressure dropped very gradually so I could see exactly were the switch closed - initially at about 20 psi. By adjusting the allen key inbetween the terminals I raised the activation pressure to about 25 psi. Here is the set-up:I then moved onto the wiring - I wanted to incorporate it into the loom to keep it tidy and easy to follow, I drew out a wiring diagram to file away - I spent a bit of time cleaning and painting - very pleased with the results. I gunked and wire brushed the inlet manifold and top engine mount bracket, for the exhaust manifold I used a wire wheel in a drill (would have taken ages with a wire brush) then blasted it with a pressure washer - I was really impressed with the results of this, worked far better than I expected! Anyway heres the results - The last little thing was the bumper side mounts, I managed to buy the metal part of the mushroom that the bracket slides onto from pug but the outer rubber part is discontinued - fortunately the old ones were salvageable using plenty of WD40 and a small file to get rid of the rust. I used plenty of grease to make sure it doesn't happen again any time soon. Also on re-assembly I ran a tap through all the nuts and the bolts through dies. Here you can see the metal part (I also got the bolt that screws into the metal part from pug) Rescued outer rubber mushroom That was it for the weekend so I now need to order the required parts - droplinks, track rods, oil filler pipe, fuel supply bits. Hopefully next weekend I'll have the bottom end so I'll be able to get the engine together and finally everything can go back together! |
Posted 7th Oct 2009 at 02:27
|
beez_neez_gt
Seasoned Pro Location: @ de limit of adhesion ! Registered: 14 Oct 2008 Posts: 2,916 Status: Offline |
Post #31
Great work and thread mate, i have the exact same rust bit where the bulkhead meets the inner wing on my Graphite 205 GTI, part from i have a little hole. So im welding some strengthening plates between the bulk and inner wing. IL soon be starting mine now i have an engine ready and waiting.Keep up the good work. Suscribed ________________________________________ Pug fee`ver,Pick a Bogey, buy a Pug. Black 306 GTI 6 Standard, was 60k mileage, bargain!! Clicky: [url =http://www.306gti6.com]click here[/url] remove the space between [url & = |
Posted 7th Oct 2009 at 23:40
|
prism7guy
Seasoned Pro Location: DoncastAAAAARGH Registered: 13 Jan 2008 Posts: 4,640 Status: Offline |
|
Posted 7th Oct 2009 at 21:37
|
paul_13
Senior User Location: Reading Registered: 10 Dec 2008 Posts: 693 Status: Offline |
Post #33
Whats the pump looking thing in front of your front panel?Its got a rubber hose coming off it. Never seen that before. Nice project by the way, wish I had patience for cleaning things and painting them. I get bored too easy ________________________________________ 205 GTI6- Rebuilt engine, lightened flywheel, lightened pulley, 307 hdi brakes, Koni struts on gravel spec springs, 22mm TB's, 24mm ARB, Roll cage, Citreon ZX rear dampers, SL434's, Xsara box, Quickrack, Pipercross enclosed induction kit.Private work, not a prob |
Posted 8th Oct 2009 at 00:22
|
rallyeash
Seasoned Pro Location: Devizes Registered: 11 Dec 2006 Posts: 4,424 Status: Offline |
Post #34
^^ just about to ask the same thing..________________________________________ 230 hp 2.1 16v XU 205 rallye on jenveys Project thread here309 3dr K20 Type R |
Posted 8th Oct 2009 at 00:40
|
sport1901966
Senior User Location: Hertfordshire/Epsom Registered: 17 Aug 2006 Posts: 687 Status: Offline |
Post #35
paul_xiii wrote: Whats the pump looking thing in front of your front panel? Its got a rubber hose coming off it. Never seen that before. Nice project by the way, wish I had patience for cleaning things and painting them. I get bored too easy Under the pass headlight? I just assumed it's some part of the horn! To be honest I don't really, I just guilted myself into it - after spending all the money on what will be a mint engine it seemed beyond lazy to leave the rust and damaged bits in the bay. I'm in awe of these guys that strip their cars to bare metal and clean/paint and rebuild from the ground up! I am enjoying it overall though, something I have wanted to do for ages, just can't wait to get it out for the first drive! |
Posted 8th Oct 2009 at 14:21
|
sport1901966
Senior User Location: Hertfordshire/Epsom Registered: 17 Aug 2006 Posts: 687 Status: Offline |
Post #36
Time now for a long overdue update. The final year of uni is proving quite intense so spare time has become a rare thing!This instalment was making a start on assembling the engine, I didn |
Posted 28th Dec 2009 at 00:54
|
miles
Seasoned Pro Location: Ringwood Registered: 28 Dec 2002 Posts: 3,433 Status: Offline |
Post #37
Looking good, The old head bolts get allot worse as the blocks get older as if you check them with a torque wrench as well they never do up around the same amount, Only a few brand new engine builds I;ve done all go down the same if using that method.The bolts never snap (Yet) it's the threads in the block that strip as if you looked at them theres not much depth to them ________________________________________ 306 Rallye Sptint/Race Car, 205 CTI 1.9 8v to name a fewRoad, Track and Race/Rally car preparation to your personal requirements, Full Workshop & Diagnostic Facilities New and Second parts, from Plugs to Turbo's We now also carry out Routine Servicing www.pugracing.com & FB Page, https://www.facebook.com/PugRacing Ebay; http://stores.ebay.co.uk/Pug-Racing-Shop 2012/2013/2014/2019 Class Winners at Gurston Down Speed Hillclimb & Joint overall, Class record too along the way, |
Posted 28th Dec 2009 at 02:49
|
sport1901966
Senior User Location: Hertfordshire/Epsom Registered: 17 Aug 2006 Posts: 687 Status: Offline |
Post #38
miles wrote: Looking good, The old head bolts get allot worse as the blocks get older as if you check them with a torque wrench as well they never do up around the same amount, Only a few brand new engine builds I;ve done all go down the same if using that method. The bolts never snap (Yet) it's the threads in the block that strip as if you looked at them theres not much depth to them Hmm thats interesting. I'll have to keep an eye on that if I ever have to have the head off. If the threads do strip is helicoiling possible? |
Posted 28th Dec 2009 at 06:01
|
sport1901966
Senior User Location: Hertfordshire/Epsom Registered: 17 Aug 2006 Posts: 687 Status: Offline |
Post #39
This time I worked loads of odd jobs. Mostly these were on the engine but a few were getting the car ready for dropping in the engine.As I have decided to put a totally new cooling system in (already put in new heater matrix and bought a new offside pipe) I made sure the coolant expansion tank was properly cleaned out and all the crap was off the sensor (I was getting the coolant level warning light on the dash until doing this). I then put in the all the coolant hoses running between the heater matrix/expansion tank/coolant union. After doing this I ran the wiring loom through the bulkhead and re-fitted the clutch cable. The rest was engine work |
Posted 28th Dec 2009 at 16:08
|
sport1901966
Senior User Location: Hertfordshire/Epsom Registered: 17 Aug 2006 Posts: 687 Status: Offline |
Post #40
I have been struggling to find an alternator belt that will fit, by taking rough measurements it looked like it needed to be a 725mm 5 rib belt but annoyingly as far as I can work out not all manufactures simply name them with the length and number of ribs. Eventually I got one called a 5PK718 made by gates, needless to say measuring it, it isn |
Posted 28th Dec 2009 at 18:24
|
sport1901966
Senior User Location: Hertfordshire/Epsom Registered: 17 Aug 2006 Posts: 687 Status: Offline |
Post #41
After fitting the engine for the first time last weekend it became clear that there was still not enough clearance between the belt cover and master cylinder. I was so tempted to grind some plastic out of the cambelt cover but, I started this project with a |
Posted 28th Dec 2009 at 23:07
|
sport1901966
Senior User Location: Hertfordshire/Epsom Registered: 17 Aug 2006 Posts: 687 Status: Offline |
Post #42
5th of December- THE ENGINE STARTS!Saturday I mounted the new aluminium Rad (fitted with the thermoswitch and plug, both required 32mm sockets) and filled cooling system. I filled the engine with oil, connected the rad fan loom and fitted the battery (may need to extend the pos terminal wires as they are pretty tight). The AFM and associated ducting/filter were then fitted and plugged in. I decided to make a temporary job of wiring in my 25psi oil pressure warning light and double checked all the loom connections were connected inside the car. I then went through a list of final checks I wrote for myself before running the engine: |
Posted 29th Dec 2009 at 03:55
|
miles
Seasoned Pro Location: Ringwood Registered: 28 Dec 2002 Posts: 3,433 Status: Offline |
Post #43
I;ve got the proper 405 Mi16 throttle cable bit that mounts on the manifold, The BX One uses the bracket on the T/B itself which is cr*pAlso I;ve got a short Silicone hose for the T/B and AFM to help with Filter clearance as there's no need to move the washer bottle even with the std inlet hose with the right filter Shame I can;t post pic's here or I would show you ________________________________________ 306 Rallye Sptint/Race Car, 205 CTI 1.9 8v to name a fewRoad, Track and Race/Rally car preparation to your personal requirements, Full Workshop & Diagnostic Facilities New and Second parts, from Plugs to Turbo's We now also carry out Routine Servicing www.pugracing.com & FB Page, https://www.facebook.com/PugRacing Ebay; http://stores.ebay.co.uk/Pug-Racing-Shop 2012/2013/2014/2019 Class Winners at Gurston Down Speed Hillclimb & Joint overall, Class record too along the way, |
Posted 29th Dec 2009 at 00:49
|
sport1901966
Senior User Location: Hertfordshire/Epsom Registered: 17 Aug 2006 Posts: 687 Status: Offline |
Post #44
miles wrote: I;ve got the proper 405 Mi16 throttle cable bit that mounts on the manifold, The BX One uses the bracket on the T/B itself which is cr*p Also I;ve got a short Silicone hose for the T/B and AFM to help with Filter clearance as there's no need to move the washer bottle even with the std inlet hose with the right filter Shame I can;t post pic's here or I would show you How much are you looking for for those as they would certainly help for a tidy job! |
Posted 29th Dec 2009 at 02:09
|
sport1901966
Senior User Location: Hertfordshire/Epsom Registered: 17 Aug 2006 Posts: 687 Status: Offline |
Post #45
Today I began by re-routing the wiring around the AFM to give slack to positive terminal |
Posted 3rd Jan 2010 at 03:33
|
sport1901966
Senior User Location: Hertfordshire/Epsom Registered: 17 Aug 2006 Posts: 687 Status: Offline |
Post #46
Cracking on through the jobs list I picked a few and got to work. To start with I re-routed the excess loom further past the battery so it wasn |
Posted 3rd Jan 2010 at 03:42
|
sport1901966
Senior User Location: Hertfordshire/Epsom Registered: 17 Aug 2006 Posts: 687 Status: Offline |
Post #47
Well I'm stumped the relay wasn't the problem, it seems as thought the earth side of the energizing circuit of the relay has a problem because if I earth the relay directly it works. There is some voltage running through it ~ 11.9v but that musn't be enough to activate the switch. I've posted a separate thread here - Thread link, if anyone can offer any suggestions that would be great!This my job list as of the 26th Dec |
Posted 3rd Jan 2010 at 03:51
|
rallyestyle
Seasoned Pro Location: London Registered: 23 Jul 2003 Posts: 14,990 Status: Offline |
Post #48
All looking very smart buddy With regards to the pipe insulation you have used to protect the coolant pipe do you know if it is high temp resistant as the top of the rad and the inlet manifold will no doubt get very hot at times ________________________________________ Just Drive It |
Posted 3rd Jan 2010 at 05:03
|
prism7guy
Seasoned Pro Location: DoncastAAAAARGH Registered: 13 Jan 2008 Posts: 4,640 Status: Offline |
Post #49
rallyestyle wrote: All looking very smart buddy With regards to the pipe insulation you have used to protect the coolant pipe do you know if it is high temp resistant as the top of the rad and the inlet manifold will no doubt get very hot at times I've got similar insulation on my oil cooler pipes for a little extra protection in places, in one place it touches my rad and although its deformed a little it hasn't really melted as such. ________________________________________ Goldie the track car. |
Posted 3rd Jan 2010 at 05:35
|
sport1901966
Senior User Location: Hertfordshire/Epsom Registered: 17 Aug 2006 Posts: 687 Status: Offline |
Post #50
rallyestyle wrote: All looking very smart buddy With regards to the pipe insulation you have used to protect the coolant pipe do you know if it is high temp resistant as the top of the rad and the inlet manifold will no doubt get very hot at times You make a good point, I'd hope that it wouldn't get too bad, considering there will be airflow around the area. It's something I'll have to keep an eye on! |
Posted 3rd Jan 2010 at 06:09
|
The Peugeot GTi-6 & Rallye Owners Club - ©2024 all rights reserved.
Please Note: The views and opinions found herein are those of individuals, and not of The Peugeot 306 GTi-6 & Rallye Owners Club or any individuals involved.
No responsibility is taken or assumed for any comments or statements made on, or in relation to, this website. Please see our updated privacy policy.