It's not a 306 but I thought you might still be interested so I'm bringing my thread on 205gtidrivers for your reading pleasure!

Hi Everyone

Welcome to my 205 1.9 8v to 1.9 Mi16 (D6C) conversion, it

Next up were the rod caps and the evidence of the cause of the knocking.



The rod and cap big end surfaces and bearings were ok on cylinder 1 and not too bad on 3 but were not good on 2 and I don

Next job was to strip down the head. Cams seemed in good condition as did the inlet valves and seats (although I am going for three angle seats as part of the rebuild) the exhaust valves had quite a build up of carbon and the sealing surfaces and valve seats were fairly pitted. The inlet guides had no wear whatsoever as I could feel and the exhaust guides were barely any worse.

There was a very small amount of corrosion on the gasket face but I think I've been lucky with the engine as its in pretty good condition - or was until the big end problems!

One job I hate is removing stem seals although I did seem to get a technique by the 8th or 9th one - put some duck tape around a follower with the sticky side out then slide it into the follower bore to protect it, then, using fat flat headed pliers (longer heads will be better) grip the seal and twist left and right whlst pulling upwards.







Exhaust Valve



Inlet Valve



So much for bargin pliers! -

As the engine was all stripped it was time to take it off for machining, I'm going for a full rebuild and with that in mind dropped the engine off in bits to be checked over. I turns out I need to new rods, which hopefully I have managed to source courtesy of Miles and I'm waiting for final confirmation that the crank is ok for a re-grind, fingers well and truely crossed!

As I've got the 4-2-1 manifold I've requested 3 angle valve seats and also will be fitting ARP rod bolts. For the sake of time and cleanliness I've asked for the head to be re-assembled at QEP but I'll be doing the block myself so any hints tips and pearls of wisdom will be more than appreciated!

I plan to strip the engine bay down as much as necessary to tidy up any rust and give it all a good clean. I'll also been cleaning up any threads and replacing any bolts that need it, which I expect will be a few!

As you may have gathered I am learning my way through this process so any advice/proven methods for dealing with any rust would be more than welcome!

With that in mind the next job was bumper off -

I hit a few issues through the process that were mainly siezed bolts. The mushrooms on the side brackets were stuck solid so out came the grinder/BFO Hammer. In fact I only undid one bolt the conventional way throughout the whole job!

Time for another update!

Since the last post I've done more stripping down of the front end - amazed how quick things start coming off once your on a roll, reminiscent of my little RC car!

I've taken out the steering rack to give more access for the rust repairs - nice and easy, 2 bolts through the sub-frame, undo the track rod ends, loosen the steering column intermediate shaft clamp bolt and slide out (remember to mark the position of the steering column splines for re-assembly.

I also took out the struts complete with hubs/discs etc just because for the sake of 3 top mount bolts a side the resulting access just made life easier.

It was then time for a good helping of gunk and a blast with the pressure washer, the result was a very crud free engine bay - much nicer to work with! This did however reveal a few more rusty patches on the subframe so it'll also be getting the rust treatment.

To also help access for the rust repair I needed to remove the servo/MC etc. with no engine etc in this was not difficult although getting to the nuts in the footwell is not the easist of jobs.

When I got the servo out it seems there has been a master cylinder leak at some point (not the current one as I replaced it recently) and the servo was amazingly full of fluid - probably more than enough to fill the reservoir again. I have most of it out but there is some still left I can't get out. What would you chaps do in this situation - take apart? Replace? Ignore?

Anyway,

This is my anti-rust arsenal!



This is something I haven't done before and I'm the first to admit I'm not the most patient with bodywork but I'm pleased with the work so far - finish not being critical as it's the engine bay.

My first step was attacking the rust - a mains powered drill and various wire brush attachments made this a fairly easy and very satisfying job.

When I had got back to bare metal the next step is the 'conversion coat' (I used Kurust) - this chemically reacts with any rust remaining (even invisible to the naked eye) and forms a solid material that can then be primered onto - dubbed 'black rust'



When thats finished doing it's stuff (approx 3 hours) the surface is ready for a sand down with wet and dry in the region of 320 grade then primer.
As the panels are galvanised steel etch primer is used, it is also far more corrosion preventing than bog standard primer. I used about three coats at 20min intervals.

After leaving plenty of time for it to harden I then gave it a sand down with very wet 1000 grade wet and dry. I dried off the surface and wiped down with panel wipe, let this dry and then went on with the first coat of top coat. - Incidently the halfords graphite grey seems to be an excellent match! - I put 3 coats of this on then finished with a couple of coats of laquer. After a couple of days, for any visible bits with engine in, I will get some really fine wet and dry and sand over the surface then give it a good polish to do my best to remove the 'orange peel effect'.

Any input on my method above would be really good, as I've already said this is all a learning process for me so feel free to teach me!

The final result -

Before



After

Any more updates with this conversion mate?

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'00 Astor Grey GTi-6 - Regretfully sold!
'89 Onyx Black 205 GTi 1.6

Top work.. Good read too!

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Build Date - 30 September 1997 - Tuesday's car..is full of pace?

Just working through the rust treatment at the moment but as mentioned above I'm off on hols.

When I get back I'm hoping the engine will be ready to collect so I'll be re-assembling the bottom end then the full engine (head is coming assembled. Bit nervous about this, I think the key will be making sure I have all the tools/lubricants/sealants etc before I start.

On that note can anyone recommend any Assembley Lubricant and silicone gasket for the sump etc

also is this the kind of moly grease I want for the headbolts -



The more tips and advice people have for me the better - trust me I will appreciate it!

I've managed to finish off the engine bay rust repairs and painting so here

Most recent job was repairing the sheared/broken bolts and the nearside wing earth point -

I took it all apart cleaned it up then put a bit of grease around to disperse water and then sealed it with a freezer bag!



Coolant pipe bracket - I ground the original stud down to the bulkhead then drilled a hole right next to it, painted then riveted the bracket to the new hole



Offside wing coolant pipe/bumper bracket mounting bolts





More updates soon... I hope!!!

looks like it by the part number sticker.

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need a part number? get on here - http://public.servicebox.peugeot.com

Bring on the Trumpets.

Sport, I don't suppose you have sourced new mounting bolts for the front bumper yet have you? taken the rear bumper off myself and can't find any replacement bolts for the ones I had to grind off.
Cheers.... Great job by the way!!