Obviously this change was done out of vehicle so before you start you'll need to make sure you have decent access to all cambelt elements. Remove auxiliary belt, offside wheel, inside arch cover, get fuel lines out the way and probably easiest to do with engine mount removed- make sure you support weight from below.

Genuine Part numbers:
Motor Kit 083148 - 136 tooth belt with manual tensioner.
Water pump 1201A1
Timing belt was a Dayco part 96 339 231 80

1. Remove timing cover- 2x 10mm nuts on front face, 3x 4mm hex bolts on top edge and loosen 2x 5mm hex bolts at bottom. Early ones have a slide locking bar instead of 10mm nuts.

LRV8 has attached the following image:

________________________________________

Nick
Ex P1 GTi 6 owner ... now P2 DTurbo
Cherised 6 gone ... but now 580 miles per tank

Cambelt FAQ Guide; Track Rod & Inner Balljoint; Modified Airbox; Alloy Anthracite Refurb; Induction Roar Tunnel Video

3. Remove timing pins and lock flywheel with 8mm pin- keep turning engine until it slips into a recess, chuck key seems to work fine as well! Loosen crank pulley bolt.

LRV8 has attached the following image:

________________________________________

Nick
Ex P1 GTi 6 owner ... now P2 DTurbo
Cherised 6 gone ... but now 580 miles per tank

Cambelt FAQ Guide; Track Rod & Inner Balljoint; Modified Airbox; Alloy Anthracite Refurb; Induction Roar Tunnel Video

5. Refit crank pulley with pin. Crack the 18mm cam pulley bolts and loosen to finger tight.

6. Release the tensioner by loosening the 13mm bolt.

7. Remove timing belt- easier if you take the crank pulley off again.

8. Remove tensioner 13mm and roller 16mm.

9. If you've got common sense you will also replace the water pump as this point; 5x 11mm bolts. Clean up the face and remove all signs of old gasket with stanley blade. Clean out any residue in block and fit new shiny one, tighten up with a ¼ inch drive- anything bigger and you'll snap the heads off.

LRV8 has attached the following image:

________________________________________

Nick
Ex P1 GTi 6 owner ... now P2 DTurbo
Cherised 6 gone ... but now 580 miles per tank

Cambelt FAQ Guide; Track Rod & Inner Balljoint; Modified Airbox; Alloy Anthracite Refurb; Induction Roar Tunnel Video

11. Rotate the cam pulleys fully clockwise, they sit in an elongated slot. These will rotate back round when you tension the belt and ensure the tension of the belt between the cams is correctly set.

12. Locate new timing belt onto crank sprocket and feed round the roller and onto inlet cam pulley, try and do this with minimal slack. Feed onto exhaust pulley and then finally round tensioner and water pump. Fit lower timing cover and put back on the crank pulley with pin.

13. Turn tensioner anti-clockwise using 8mm sump key. As you tension the belt you will see the cam pulleys rotate anti-clockwise. Keep going until you can twist the belt between inlet and roller by about 75 degrees. If you can twist it more it's too loose, if you can't twist it 45 degrees it's too tight and will cause premature failure of all components. Check the vid link below.
cambelt tension video new link

LRV8 has attached the following image:

________________________________________

Nick
Ex P1 GTi 6 owner ... now P2 DTurbo
Cherised 6 gone ... but now 580 miles per tank

Cambelt FAQ Guide; Track Rod & Inner Balljoint; Modified Airbox; Alloy Anthracite Refurb; Induction Roar Tunnel Video

15. Realign timing and insert the 3 pins, these should slide in and out ok. Check tension. If you're happy with alignment and tension you're all done. If not, release cam pulley bolts and tensioner and go again.

16. Finally tighten tensioner to 21 Nm, cam pulleys to 75 Nm and crank pulley bolt to 130 Nm with thread lock. Couldn't find torque for roller so set about 40 Nm.

LRV8 has attached the following image:

________________________________________

Nick
Ex P1 GTi 6 owner ... now P2 DTurbo
Cherised 6 gone ... but now 580 miles per tank

Cambelt FAQ Guide; Track Rod & Inner Balljoint; Modified Airbox; Alloy Anthracite Refurb; Induction Roar Tunnel Video