**in addition to the regular size tools you will need 16&18mm spanner and sockets for this job and 2 trolley jacks makes life far easier**

Step 1
Empty boot throw seats forward and strip out carpet and sound deadening
Step 2
Remove the 6 rubber grommets which conceal the axle mount points
Step 3
Chock front wheels and place in gear with handbrake off. Jack car up one trolley jack a side on the torsion bar. Go high enough to get axle stands on sill jacking points
Step 4
Position axle stand under each rear sill jacking point (as a guide for height mine were on first pin lock)
Step 5
Gently lower jacks so body is secured on axle stands and remove rear wheels
Step 6
Remove rear exhaust box and take middle section off it’s hanger (this allows it to fall enough to allow the axle to come down later
Step 7
Ensure a trolley jack is at each end of the torsion bar
Step 8
Undo the 3 securing nuts inside the boot for the side you are going to replace first (note torsion bar no longer bolted to car so is reliant on the jacks for support.
Step 9
Loosen the other sides 3 nuts also but leave them on their threads
Step 10
Gently lower the jack on the side you are to replace first. The beam will descend and the securing bolts will pull through the body.
Step 11
Bend heat shield out the way and undo the 2 main securing bolts for the mount to axle (these are 18mm)
Step 12
Withdraw the top bolt completely and only push the bottom one through half way (this keeps the various axle parts together)
You may find it necessary to also loosen the top shock mount although this will depend on the reach of the shocks. This is to allow the bottom bolt to be pushed through half way as the trailing arm may be in the way with shock attached.
Step 13
You should now be able to wiggle the mount free from the beam. If you can’t you can lower the jack a touch more.
Step 14
Fit new mount ensuring the various holes are lined up and pop bolts though to hold in place.
Once both bolts are through and mount in place do up the 2 x 18mm securing bolts
Step 15
Jack the axle back up to the car guiding the mount bolts through their holes in the car body. This may take some wiggling of the beam (make sure you don’t topple it off the jack!)
Once each is guided in jack beam back up to body and start mount nuts on their threads inside boot.
Step 16
Do steps 8-15 on other side
Step 17
Once both mounts are fitted you can tighten the mount nuts inside the boot (don’t murder them as they can easily snap off!)
Step 18
Visually check beam is in straight and fully bolted back to body without any wires being caught
You will see where the axle sat originally (marks where mounts and nuts were) and ideally you should try your best to get it back to it’s original position on the body.
If this means loosening nuts adjusting and tightening again then so be it.
Step 19
Pop exhaust back on and refit wheels
Step 20
Drop back on floor and bounce a couple of times. Then visually and measure if need be to see that wheels are square in the arches.
Step 21
Check nuts on mounts in boot are all tight now body weight is on them
Step 22
Refit trim in boot and road test

Pic 2
Close up of mount point inside boot

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Pic 4
Jacks in position

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Pic 6
The bolts which hold mount to axle

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Pic 8
Make sure you don't pull this sucker right out!!!

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Pic 10
Old Vs New
The old one can be wobbled by hand so it must move loads under hard cornering (note my car has done 73k)

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