ive gone and done it again but this time its smashed off the crank pulley timing hole on the engine and snapped off the cambelt tensioner taking the drop out that the tensioner bolts to on the engine casting with it! crank pulley timing pin was left in and engine was cranked cz im an f##king idiot. can this be repaired? or is it scrap? thanks.

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C. Hughes

Pulling engine out in a couple of days and I've spoken to someone that can weld cast iron and he's been doing it for years. The cast on engine Block where the back of tensioner sits has snapped on a 45 degree angle through the center of m8 hole for the bolt. What I'm thinking is to retap another hole just in front of the old one because there's room to do it and welding the broken piece back on. Carnt use the original hole because the welded joint when it's done will pass straight through it. With the alternative m8 hole being moved to the center of engine a couple of millimeters the 136 tooth cambelt won't fit (to tight) so I'm thinking 137 tooth cambelt will to make up for the adjustment of my complete f**k UP!! I'm assuming that the auto tensioner that comes with 137 tooth cambelt has a wider pulley so if I use the 137 tooth belt with steel manual tensioner it'll might be OK maybe? Complete bodge I know!!! THIS IS JUST AN IDEA! 😐 No bent valves thank god as the crank spun half a turn and the timing pin had stopped it going any further. The exhaust cam had shifted slighty forward a couple of degrees more than the inlet cam so I put that down to the belt being pulled straight when tensioner snapped off allowing the ex cam to travel a bit. 😐

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C. Hughes

😂😂😂😂😂👍

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C. Hughes