displaying posts 1 to 7 of 7

Author Subject: 106 epas relay trigger
Wilde Haren

Newbie

Location: Utrecht

Registered: 10 Sep 2018

Posts: 28

Status: Offline

Post #1
Hi guys,

I'm getting ready to convert my Gti to a supercharged version and have decided to keep the aircon and power steering (I'm a creature of both speed and comfort). I'm having a hard time finding a way to trigger the relay that comes with the 106 EPAS pump. I've put a potentiometer on every lead in the engine fusebox but I haven't found any wire that only has (12V) power in position 3 of the ignition key; 1 being off, 2 being battery power, 3 being everything on the dash lights up, 4 being cranking, and then I guess you get back to 3.

Can anyone give me some tips on this?

I've already tried to decrypt Toby's post on his Supercharged 306 with Air Con and PAS and that got me in the right direction as far as mounting the pump itself but the electrical descriptions are too vague for me.

I've also been going through the Haynes manual, specifically the wiring diagrams, but being able to read those and finding the right wire in the engine bay are two different things Sad

Pics that might help:



Posted 7th Mar 2020 at 13:43
miki4

Regular

Location: Cologne

Registered: 09 Nov 2015

Posts: 390

Status: Offline

Post #2
Hi Sander,

I don't know for sure, but there should be a switched 12 V source (position 3 / ignition) at the double relay behind the ECU. Probably also a "fuel-pump 12V" which is active when the engine runs and the fuel pump primes. The latter you can definitely get at the red crash breaker switch next to the double relay. However, I don't know how much additional current it can handle and how much current the switching part of the EPAS draws.

As a last resort you can get "position 3" 12 V at the ignition coils. Maybe others know better points.

Good luck!
Posted 7th Mar 2020 at 21:39
Wilde Haren

Newbie

Location: Utrecht

Registered: 10 Sep 2018

Posts: 28

Status: Offline

Post #3
Thanks Miki,

After some measuring, F9 & F11 have current when the car is "ON". However, my fuel pump primes every few minutes even when the car is off, probably due to my missing immobiliser unit. It would be very easy to piggyback of one of these two fuses with a piggyback fuse holder, however it would also cause my EPAS pump to prime with the fuel pump. The fuel pump fuse is 10A, the EPAS pump relay is rated at 45A so I'm guessing it would draw a lot more current from my battery. Not sure if that could drain my battery if I don't use the car for a few days.

After more measuring I found "pin 2 on the back relay"; that's the injection relay and you can find it in the Haynes manual on page 12-40. It's the 2nd pin on the right in the bottom row with 7 pins. This would probably be the best option but I don't like cutting up my loom.

So now I have two options I guess!

F9 & F11:


A random piggyback fuse holder:


The relay wiring that came with the 106 EPAS pump:


My fancy measurement notes next to the Haynes manual

Posted 8th Mar 2020 at 10:47
miki4

Regular

Location: Cologne

Registered: 09 Nov 2015

Posts: 390

Status: Offline

Post #4
It is normal for the fuel pump to prime several times after the car has been shut off.

I would definitely connect the EPAS' constant 12 V directly to the battery and use an inline fuse if there is no other fuse inside the EPAS (haven't looked it for a while).

You could measure how much current the coil inside the relay draws. It won't be much and you should be able to piggyback one of the fuses without a problem.

If you want to prevent the EPAS to run when parked up and the fuel pump primes, you could use a second relay or transistor to switch the piggybacked fuel pump 12 V with ignition-switched 12 V. Another solution would be something like a voltage sensitive relay or a little electronic which switches as soon as the voltage exceeds like 13 V (engine running).

The simplest solution would be if someone knew a point where one could simply get 12 V from when engine running. Anyone?

EDIT:
You know what. Try the second terminal on the alternator. Roll eyes LOL This one could impair the function of the alternator but it's worth a try.
Posted 9th Mar 2020 at 16:36
rudolf

Seasoned Pro

Location: Skelmersdale

Registered: 07 Apr 2004

Posts: 2,769

Status: Offline

Post #5
miki4 wrote:
It is normal for the fuel pump to prime several times after the car has been shut off.

I would definitely connect the EPAS' constant 12 V directly to the battery and use an inline fuse if there is no other fuse inside the EPAS (haven't looked it for a while).

You could measure how much current the coil inside the relay draws. It won't be much and you should be able to piggyback one of the fuses without a problem.

If you want to prevent the EPAS to run when parked up and the fuel pump primes, you could use a second relay or transistor to switch the piggybacked fuel pump 12 V with ignition-switched 12 V. Another solution would be something like a voltage sensitive relay or a little electronic which switches as soon as the voltage exceeds like 13 V (engine running).

The simplest solution would be if someone knew a point where one could simply get 12 V from when engine running. Anyone?

EDIT:
You know what. Try the second terminal on the alternator. Roll eyes LOL This one could impair the function of the alternator but it's worth a try.


The rear demister must come from there as it only works when the engine is running

________________________________________

S Reg Diablo standardsSpec SORNED
R Reg Nile standard spec written off then repaired
X Reg Astor in need of TLC
R Reg Nile to restore
Set of Lions to fit.
Posted 9th Mar 2020 at 19:43
marksorrento205

Seasoned Pro

Location: Airborne in the lanes

Registered: 26 Aug 2008

Posts: 2,223

Status: Offline

Post #6
On the 106 I think the trigger comes from the small alternator wire.

________________________________________

How to do a clicky: [url =http://www.306gti6.com]click here[/url] remove the space between [url & =
Posted 9th Mar 2020 at 20:55
miki4

Regular

Location: Cologne

Registered: 09 Nov 2015

Posts: 390

Status: Offline

Post #7
rudolf wrote:
The rear demister must come from there as it only works when the engine is running

Good to know, I'm going to look it up in the SEDRE schematics. Maybe there is a good point to tap into in the engine bay.


marksorrento205 wrote:
On the 106 I think the trigger comes from the small alternator wire.

Cool, in that case it should be no problem to do that on the 306 as well. Smile
Posted 9th Mar 2020 at 22:39

All times are GMT. The time is now 04:11

The Peugeot GTi-6 & Rallye Owners Club - ©2024 all rights reserved.

Please Note: The views and opinions found herein are those of individuals, and not of The Peugeot 306 GTi-6 & Rallye Owners Club or any individuals involved.
No responsibility is taken or assumed for any comments or statements made on, or in relation to, this website. Please see our updated privacy policy.