displaying posts 1 to 20 of 20

Author Subject: China blue '6
deeturbo

Regular

Location: Leighton Buzzard

Registered: 22 Feb 2003

Posts: 283

Status: Offline

Post #1
I started a project thread on another forum and I'd meant to start one here to. A year has now passed since buying the car and I've done a fair bit to the car since, all maintenance related rather than exciting performance stuff.

Most of the thread will be copy and pasted from the other thread.




The trials and tribulations of buying a 17 year old car.

So I've finally got a GTI6.

I've wanted one ever since they came out and I think this will be the last year I would be able to afford one.

Here it is, my China '6

Photos from the advert.

















I am selling my Peugeot 306 GTi 6 as it failed the MOT a few weeks ago and sadly I decided to buy a new car instead of getting it repaired.

Details for failure:

Parking brake: efficiency below requirements
Exhaust emissions carbon monoxide content after 2nd fast idle excessive
Tyre tread depth below requirements of 1.6mm offside front
Parking brake lever has no reserve travel (o/s cable failed during test)

The garage told me it needs a new handbrake cable on the right hand side only, a new tyre and either a new cat or a new lambda sensor. All an easy and cheap fix for someone who knows what they are doing.

The car has 128722 miles on the clock, I have owned the car since 2012 when it had 119000 on it and have done an air and oil filter change every year that I've owned it. It has recently has a new battery and stereo with aux input (original stereo with 6cd changer also included)

The bodywork is in fairly good condition, please bear in mind this is a 17 year old car so there will be some minor dents and scratches as to be expected of a car this age, I have tried to show the car from every angle so you can spot anything untoward. The cambelt was changed at around 70-75000 miles.

There are tons of old receipts and mots for most if not all of the work that has been carried out on the vehicle since new.

The drivers seat is in poor condition, again shown in the photos, and the surround on the passenger door has come off, maybe some glue? apart from that the interior defies it's age.

I am available most days for you to come and view the car before bidding blind, the listing price is scrap value so it seems a good place to start. I know I could get more if I was to sell it as individual parts but I just can't bring myself to do it as there's not many left and I have loved every minute of owning it.

PLEASE BE AWARE:
YOU ARE BIDDING TO BUY THE CAR AND NOT THE OPPORTUNITY TO TYPE A FIGURE THAT YOU MIGHT PAY BUT WILL MORE LIKELY TRY YOUR LUCK AND GET IT CHEAPER BECAUSE YOU WON AND IT'S NO LONGER LISTED. IF THIS IS YOU THEN PLEASE DON'T BOTHER.

I have also listed this elsewhere so reserve the right to end this listing at anytime.



The drivers seat isn't the best but I have seen worse.


Work will start on it tomorrow. (That was on the 23/04/16)

I had bought the car blind as a eBay auction, I only paid just under £600 for it which I thought was a very good price and the seller said I could repair the car at his which was a bonus.

My to do list

  • Cat and lambda
  • Handbrake cable
  • Rear number plate
  • rear wiper
  • Grease gear selector ball
  • Remote locking key fix
  • Cam belt water pump
  • Aux belt, crank pulley, idler and tensioner
  • Radiator replace
  • Cooling system flush
  • Thermostat housing replace
  • Radiator clips replaced
  • Fit wiper arm nut cover
  • Front caliper refurbish
  • Fit new clutch cable holder
  • Air conditioning check and gas
  • Fit GTI lower bumper trim (for some reason it's not got one) 24/07/16
  • Replace driver mirror with a china blue one 24/07/16
  • Replace drivers door handle with a china blue one
  • Wishbone bushes
  • Front brake lines replace
  • Replace heater panel
  • Rear axle rebuild
  • Rear caliper rebuild
  • Rear brake lines replace
  • NSF corner fix scrape
  • Polish inlet manifold
  • Fit PTFE manifold gasket
  • Replace clutch, cable, bushes, input shaft oil seal and crank seals
  • Replace drive shaft oil seals
  • Replace rear axle bushes
  • Replace engine mounts
  • Get front seat reupholstered
  • Service engine - oil change, oil filter, air filter, fuel filter, spark plugs
  • Fix rust on chassis leg
  • Fix rust on chassis tire fitters jacking point
  • Remove engine and box to fix rust in engine bay
  • Fix rust under boot
  • Remove exhaust shields and clean up
  • Remove dents via dent remover type company
  • The windscreen is going cloudy so could do with replacing
  • Replace tires with better match set
  • Get alloys refurbished

  • Posted 18th Apr 2020 at 13:15
    deeturbo

    Regular

    Location: Leighton Buzzard

    Registered: 22 Feb 2003

    Posts: 283

    Status: Offline

    Post #2
    24/04/16

    There are always surprises with used cars and this one is no different.

    It doesn't look as nice in the flesh as it does in the photo that’s for certain.

    Only three stamps in the service book but loads of receipts for servicing from independent garages.

    Have all the previous MOT's to.

    I fitted the O/S handbrake cable today (24/04/16) as I had some spare in the garage, I will fit the other once I get it home.

    I've ordered a cat and Lambda sensor from ECP.

    Anyone know if the NGK Lambda sensors ECP sell are any good? (bought it but returned it when I found the proper Bosch unit)

    The car failed on carbon monoxide content after 2nd fast idle, could this be down to the cat not being hot enough? (I replaced the cat)

    I'm thinking of running some cataclean through it before the test and hope that might sort it. If it fails again replace it with the lambda. (I didn't bother as I replaced the cat and lambda)

    There are signs of the car being jacked by the chassis and there is a lot of rust there so I'll be stripping that back and reseal it before it gets worse.

    You can see here how much the plate has bent. You would think once it starts to cave in they would stop jacking the car by that place. It's the same the other side to :-(






    Plans at the moment are to get it to pass it's MOT get it home then get it up to scratch for the summer.

    Original plan was to fix it and keep it for the summer then sell in the autumn but not sure at the minute.

    I need to replace the suspension bushes front and back could do with replacing to (ordered P bushes in case it fails for them), cambelt according to the paperwork was replaced around 30k ago but it's been on 8 years (ordered cambelt kit and water pump), rear wiper arm is broken (one on order) and number plate (only got advisory but I wouldn't have passed it so that's on order to).

    The car is very original, it's still got the original induction piping and airbox, radio and auto changer was included in the sale. If I keep it I'd like to keep it as original as possible.

    Just can't wait to get it home, the seller is a really nice guy and has been very accommodating to allow me to repair the car at his so I can get it through the MOT.



    28/04/16

    Cambelt kit and water pump turned up today.

    Water pump looks like a toy one, that'll be going back.





    Got lots of bits to put on and the v5 came today just need the car now lol





    30/04/16

    This morning I had a right nightmare at ECP. Ordered a couple of bits for collect, got a call to say they're ready, turned up four staff behind the desk all kids that know f all about cars, two chatting about gaming the other two chatting about trainers. Had to wait for them to finish talking about there s**t before getting served. Then get told the parts haven't been picked, so what the hell was the call about? They seem to do that a lot, call to say they're ready when they're not even picked. Think I was there around 30 minutes. One guy came in asking for struts and they didn't have a clue what struts were. I would have loved a job in a parts place when I was a kid and these s**ts are not the slightest bit interest in cars or what they're selling. Think I'll be using GSF more as the parts at ECP seem to be getting worse on the quality side.

    Anyway sorry for my little rant there.

    When I got to the car I managed to;

    Fit the rear number plate as the old one had a crack through the middle.


    Fitted the spare wheel on the car as the OSF failed the MOT. I will be replacing all the tires soon as they're all budget tyres at the moment.

    Fitted the cat and new lambda. Didn't realise the manifold to cat fittings were bolts on this and not like the HDI studs so scared the s**t out of me when it was turning and not coming undone lol. Next it took me a couple of minutes to work out that you could get access to the drivers side bolt from in front of the sub frame, that really confused me at first.

    Almost fitted the wrong cat.

    Random cat came and had a nosy. Kept jumping on the car to, had to pick it off the roof a couple of times.


    The old cat is a bit smaller then the s**t one I've fitted.


    The clearance between the heat shield wasn't great ether.


    That and the midsection seem an inch or two too short so the whole alignment of the exhaust system isn't great. The exit is almost not visible from the back. Things like this really p**s me off.

    The lambda connector doesn't click in the plug on the car so had to cable tie them together to stop them coming apart or moisture getting in.


    Bloody exhaust sections didn't seal ether when I clamped them and I didn't bring any exhaust paste with me so I'll need to go back Monday to sort that.

    On one of the previous MOT sheets the car failed because of that red cable being loose so they chopped it short. I've pulled it back through in to the cabin for now. Need to reseat the rubber bung though. It's really s**t way of routing the power lead the edge of the body was really digging in to the cable.

    The passenger door handle surround kept popping off, this was due to the screw under the handle being missing. Swapped the one in from the front end of the door, got spare one at home so that'll be sorted soon. Surround all sorted now.


    I would have thought the GTI spec to have tweeters in the A sail (mirror covers)?

    Feels like I've had to bodge a bit today as I didn't have stuff I needed but I'll be sorting it out properly once I get the car home.

    The gearstick didn't feel nice selecting gears so lube up the ball on the selector under the car with some silicone grease. It's all nice and smooth now and I almost punched the centre console when going in to 3rd gear lol.

    Looks like some idiot has broken the clips that hold the coolant pipe that runs along the chassis leg, one clip was rubbing on an idler.


    The tensioner seems to have a bit broken to.


    Do these AC pipes look standard? (I found out they aren't standard) Thought they were going to be like the HDI ones with the ally runs but these are mainly rubber. So hopefully change the condenser, regas and it'll have working AC.


    Most the tires needed air so went to fill them using the compressor out my car and found no power, the 20amp fuse was blown for the cigarette lighter plug. Replaced it and inflated tires. Spare had 5psi in it lol and it’s a new tire though.

    Spoken to my dad about the car today and he says I can park it up around his in the winter so I think I'll be keeping this now instead of selling it on in 6 months.

    Saying that my love for this is dying a bit, loads to do to get it good and I hope the MOT doesn't fail it on something I've missed.

    I just hope that first drive to the MOT station knocks my socks off but I doubt it will with its dodgy bushes and crap tires.
    Posted 25th Apr 2017 at 18:15
    deeturbo

    Regular

    Location: Leighton Buzzard

    Registered: 22 Feb 2003

    Posts: 283

    Status: Offline

    Post #3
    02/05/16

    This morning before going to the car to fix the exhaust leak I thought I'd look at why one of the remote keys didn't work.

    I found it was down to the switch on the board was jammed in the on position. Took the switch apart and bent the metal surrounds and that sorted it.


    When I got there I sorted the exhaust leaks, cleaned the chrome tip, you have to have a clean tip, but you can't see as it's to far up the bumper.


    You can see how short the mid section is here.


    I checked the lights, OSF side light looked like one of those fancy light bulbs with the low glow elements.


    There was a bulb out on the OSR and when removing the cluster I found breaker markings under the unit.


    Drivers door check strap was loose, tightened that.


    The short rubber return fuel line in above the rail looks like it could do with replacing.


    Looks like the previous owner was a smoker as there was a load of ash still in the ashtray, I'll clean that one tomorrow when I get the car home.


    Replaced both the front wipers and now it's ready for it's MOT in the morning.



    03/05/16

    Got it to the MOT station this morning and I've just called up... and it has passed! Advisory on wishbone bushes, I knew they were bad, I ordered some last week their at home waiting to go on.

    Lots more to do on it, at lest I'll have it at home now.

    The best result was it made it to the test station lol It was a 45min drive through the lanes.

    That was the first time I drove it and the first time I drove a '6!

    I've found it'll need front discs, it vibrates when braking at high speed. Brakes felt a lot better than I thought they would be seeing as the car had been sat some time.



    11/05/16

    So had the car home a week and not done anything to it yet. I had a race meeting the weekend and with my girlfriend in hospital I've not had chance to play with it.

    I could do with the ac button or a new panel.


    I think this switch is for the remote lead to turn an amp off that use to be in there.


    Most the wiring is in there and I'm in two minds in upgrading the sound system as I'd like to keep it as original as possible. I'll do some rattle investigation to remove those annoying noisy when driving and I might sound deaden the doors a little.

    I might take it work tomorrow but with the belt being so old I don't want to do too many miles.

    Engine bay doesn't look to bad.





    15/05/16

    Didn't really get up to much on the car this weekend as the Dturbo needed some attention.

    Before lunch I had a few spare minutes so had a look at a couple of things.

    The seat adjuster for some strange reason the handle wasn't on right so fixed that.





    Whoever installed an amp in the past did it in a s**t way and didn't put the carpet back right so I reseated that.


    I removed the aftermarket headunit.


    Found some dodgy wiring behind the unit. God knows why you would do this. Why not just cut their s**t stereo wires instead of chopping the car harness. There was an invoice for work done, it says the battery kept going flat and it said it was down to the stereo incorrectly wired, at a guess I bet the headunit was staying with the red and yellow feeds being the wrong way around. Also notice the amp remote wire, why use the switched ignition and not the proper remote turn on/aerial power wire of the unit?


    The OEM unit back in.


    I've got the autochanger but the brackets are missing, I'm not sure whether to source them and put it in.

    The third brake light was loose and when I went to sort it I found the tabs were broken and the cover had been glued in. I was going to be getting one from the breakers.

    Hopefully next week I'll get the right water pump that I'll be happy to have on the car and I'll replace the cam belt.



    17/05/16

    Went to return the crap water pump and lambda to ECP, so thought I'd take the car for a run.

    On parking up when I got home, I looked out the window and saw a puddle under the car.

    I went out to find this.


    The bottom of the rad looks a bit battered and I think when I tried messing with the top to clip forward I must have broken the bottom.

    New rad will be on order when I see some good deals. I'll replace it when I do the cambelt associated bits and condenser.

    Gives me an excuse not to drive it now, I've been getting nervous about the belt snapping.
    Posted 19th Oct 2017 at 20:37
    deeturbo

    Regular

    Location: Leighton Buzzard

    Registered: 22 Feb 2003

    Posts: 283

    Status: Offline

    Post #4
    26/05/16

    So p**sed off, wanted to take the car to work tomorrow so put a replacement rad on this evening. It took a while but I was getting there.

    Then the bloody stat bleed screw sheared its head. Thought f*ck but got it out and put a replacement in thought great back on track then went bleeding the system of air with the motor running and getting the last bit out the stat opened load of air came out. Two seconds later I hear a snap. The stat housing had broken. I'll stick photos up tomorrow.



    27/05/16

    Looks like the brakes are binding a little, I'll be ordering a rebuild kit for the calipers.
    http://vid984.photobucket.com/albums/ae321/Dee_306/Cars/GTI6/VID_20160526_193336_zpskyo9tyop.mp4

    I got some bits from the breakers.

    Third brake light, tab was broken on the one on the car.


    Jack was missing so got one of them and the red slide of the lambda connector.


    Red slide fitted.


    Got some brackets for the autochanger, not sure if I'll be fitting it at the moment. I'll be cleaning the rust off these and painting them if I do.


    Good job I've got a new pulley, this one doesn't look to great. Hopefully with the new seals and a clean up the block will be nice and dry.


    Bloody bleed screw, I'm not the type of person that over tightens thing. I felt the screw starting to tighten up on the threads and not on the flat before the head came off.


    Drilled a hole and got a stud extractor in there.


    Removed.


    Replaced it with a stainless cap head and dowty washer I had, but I've bought the proper brass bleed screw and copper sealing washer today.


    Then after finally bleeding all the air out I heard a snap and the thermostat housing p**sed out a load of water.


    The old rad was badly corroded at the bottom and I've got a feeling it might have been crap put in there to stop it leaking e.g. rad weld or the like.



    04/06/16

    A couple of weeks back I changed the rad,

    The fins all rotted out.


    Looks like someone used radweld to plug the leak.


    Bought a little bit ratchet and ground down a T30 bit to get to the bolt that's under the master cylinder on the cover over the plugs.




    I've not had chance to do much on the car because of other things going on and the wet weather but on Sunday I had the chance to replace the cambelt and aux belt items.

    These are the new aux rollers with the HDI rollers, it's no wonder the 6' weighs so much with big silly parts like these.


    Pulleys pinned.


    New water pump is in.


    Good job I bought a new crank pulley as you can see how much the old one had slipped.


    Got a Dayco kit and they've sent a wrong bolt. It was missing the M8 bolt that holds the tensioner.


    Also glad I got new rollers on the aux side as the old ones were dry and rattly.


    Pulley, rollers and belt on.


    The old water pump looked and felt good but I wasn't going to risk it.


    I was surprised to see it was the original.


    I changed the rad clips to.




    Hopefully this week in the evenings I'll be rebuilding the front calipers and on the weekend I'll be changing the clutch.

    For some reason I'm not feeling the love for this car. I was more excited about working on the dog rough estate then this. Talking of the estate, this week it passed another MOT with now advisories.

    I found the cambelt a pain to do on this. After taking the pegs out and turning the engine over by hand one of the cams didn't line up and also the inlet cam kept springing back. It says it's a three hour job in Autodata. Looking at it I thought I'd get it done in two but I started at 11 and I didn't get in till 9 that evening lol.

    I hope the clutch isn't going to be that bad a job.
    Posted 19th Oct 2017 at 21:22
    deeturbo

    Regular

    Location: Leighton Buzzard

    Registered: 22 Feb 2003

    Posts: 283

    Status: Offline

    Post #5
    05/06/16

    I drove it to work today and at speed you can feel the front doesn't feel that great with the worn P bushes. I've got some to go on and I've ordered some powerflex front wishbone bushes to. I almost bought some Febi wishbones but thought there wasn't any point getting new wishbones to only to rip out the front bushes for the powerflex ones.

    The car definitely feels stiffer then the Dturbo and the seating position feel a lot higher which I'm not too keen on.

    Sounds like the rad cap might also need swapping out as I could hear pressure leaking from it.

    Hey ho lots to do.



    05/07/16

    So gave the cars a quick clean this evening.

    It looks like the driver door has been replaced with a Nial blue one. It's been sprayed but they didn't spray the door handle and mirror cap, very strange.



    It does come up very nice in photos.



    07/07/16

    Been driving the car the last few days and got stuck in traffic tonight because of this my foot is killing from the very heavy clutch.

    I also think the engine mounts could do with replacing because of the engine had a bit of rocking when going on and off the throttle.




    This evening I've removed the front calipers so I can sand blast them and rebuild them tomorrow.

    The drivers top slider was very tight and the slider kept tuning, I couldn't hold a 17mm spanner on it and hit the 13mm with a mallet at the same time so I strapped the 17mm to the chassis loop.


    I had no problems undoing the bottom as that slider was seized solid.

    I accidentally ripped the pad wear wires off when removing the caliper from the carrier Sad Not an issue as I have new discs and pads to go on.


    The top slider on the N/S/F didn't even have the rubber boot fitted correctly.


    Something is missing.


    I've gone over the seized sliders with a wire brush and left them soaking in penetrating over night, hopefully they'll free up and I hope the carriers where the sliders go in to will be ok.




    08/07/16

    I took the calipers to work today thinking I'd get them rebuilt there but I didn't realise how long it would take to clean them up.

    The one slider was a right pain to get out, it took awhile to get it moving and a lot of effort to get it out.



    The back of the carriers and part of the calipers hadn't been painted so it was very corroded in those areas.





    The one on the right was the second tempt. I was surprised at how slow and time consuming sand basting these was going to be.





    I blasted down the slider holes to get all the rust out.

    I would have liked to have had them rebuilt today so I could take the car to work to get the clutch done but it looks like I'll be spending tomorrow carry on cleaning these up.

    Has anyone had calipers powder coated before? Would powder coating be ok with brake fluid?



    13/07/16

    On Friday I finished blasting the last caliper, applied the colour, rebuilt them with new seals and sliders and that evening installed them on the car as I was hoping to take the car to work to do the clutch and crank oil seals because of this I rushed getting them on the car and the paint hadn't hardened enough so unfortunately made a bit of a mess of it.

    The other thing I wasn't able to do was put my new braided lines on, that'll have to be fitted another day.



    They would have looked a lot better with the new discs and pads but I thought I'd leave the original ones in and get the full use from them before putting the new in also the pads are Ferodo and I've only bought bog standard Pagid.



    I got some stainless bleed screws to lessen the chance of them getting stuck in the future.



    On Saturday I got up late and by the time I got the car to work the day was getting up to 32c. I was struggling with the heat so decided against tackling the clutch change instead I thought I'd give the cooling system a proper good flush.

    I stuck in Holts rad flush for the drive to work and when I got there I dropped the coolant.



    I then connected up some large bore pipes up to the block and used mains pressure to flush the system after removing the thermostat.





    I then disconnected the heater matrix pipes to flush that separately. There was loads of crap on the inside of the pipes.



    After flushing the system I thought I'd have a look at the clutch cable as I thought the routing wasn't great when I was last under the car also the clip that holds the adjuster had rusted away.





    I also stuck a bit of chain lube on the fork shaft where the bushes are. I drilled a small hole in the bottom bush to spray the lube in through. I'm glad I took a look at the cable and lubed the bushes as the clutch feels loads better.

    Before I did anything on the on clutch the pedal took 38kg of force to push down, it's no wonder my foot ached after driving the car the few times that week. The Dturbo takes 20kg and my girlfriends 206 HDI with its hydraulic system only takes 10kg! Both cars have had recent clutches.

    After I got all the air out the cooling system I had a lovely drive home.




    18/07/16

    I would have liked to have taken more photos for the caliper rebuild but I was pushed for time.

    I'll be doing the rears this soon.

    I need to get a check list sorted of the bits I need to do because I have so many parts to fit and I'm now starting to feel a little snowed under lol.



    19/07/16

    Today I borrowed a vac pump and some gauges from someone at work and at this minute the system is under vacuum.



    The guy I got the gauges off said he'd be surprised to see it go down to -1bar, guess what...



    I take it, that's a good sign.

    I'm going to leave it a couple of hours and see if it's lost any vacuum.

    It's been an hour and I'm going to check in a bit to see what's changed.

    Posted 22nd Oct 2017 at 15:00
    deeturbo

    Regular

    Location: Leighton Buzzard

    Registered: 22 Feb 2003

    Posts: 283

    Status: Offline

    Post #6
    20/07/16

    So after I left the gauges on the car over night and...


    The system held a vacuum for 12hrs. I think the slight change was due to temperature change.

    The system looks to be sealed and air tight. I just hope the other components related to the aircon are working as I'll be getting the system gassed up in the next few days.

    The condenser that I bought will stay in the garage for now as a spare.



    22/07/16

    The car now has working aircon, let see how long it works for.




    22/07/16

    I thought I'd make a to do list to clear my mind and make sure I have an idea what to be getting on with.


  • Cat and lambda
  • Handbrake cable
  • Rear number plate
  • rear wiper
  • Grease gear selector ball
  • Remote locking key fix
  • Cam belt water pump
  • Aux belt, crank pulley, idler and tensioner
  • Radiator replace
  • Cooling system flush
  • Thermostat housing replace
  • Radiator clips replaced
  • Fit wiper arm nut cover
  • Front caliper refurbish
  • Fit new clutch cable holder
  • Air conditioning check and gas
  • Fit GTI lower bumper trim (for some reason it's not got one) 24/07/16
  • Replace driver mirror with a china blue one 24/07/16
  • Replace drivers door handle with a china blue one
  • Wishbone bushes
  • Front brake lines replace
  • Replace heater panel
  • Rear axle rebuild
  • Rear caliper rebuild
  • Rear brake lines replace
  • NSF corner fix scrape
  • Polish inlet manifold
  • Fit PTFE manifold gasket
  • Replace clutch, cable, bushes, input shaft oil seal and crank seals
  • Replace drive shaft oil seals
  • Replace rear axle bushes
  • Replace engine mounts
  • Get front seat reupholstered
  • Service engine - oil change, oil filter, air filter, fuel filter, spark plugs
  • Fix rust on chassis leg
  • Fix rust on chassis tire fitters jacking point
  • Remove engine and box to fix rust in engine bay
  • Fix rust under boot
  • Remove exhaust shields and clean up
  • Remove dents via dent remover type company
  • The windscreen is going cloudy so could do with replacing
  • Replace tires with better match set
  • Get alloys refurbished

  • There is probably a load more to add but that it for now.



    24/07/16

    Today I was hoping to do the clutch but had another crap night and got up late so thought I'd do something else.

    I started with the front bumper lip.

    The one I got wasn't in the best condition but it looks better then I thought it would once on.





    While under the car I noticed the aircon pipe that goes to the passenger side of the condenser was leaking. I'll be getting the gas out as soon as I can, hopefully in the morning.



    I tried tightening the large union, it tightened slightly but the leak looks like it's coming from the joint between the condenser connection and the ally pipe. Normally there is a stud on the condenser the pipe connects to but there is a bolt on this. I tried tightening the bolt but it felt like it was twisting and going to snap. I'll see how it is in the morning, if leaking I'll get the gas out and I'll have to have a look the these joints.

    Also while under the car I took a moment to admire my clean calipers.



    I went to fit a power steering pulley guard that I got but access to the bottom bolt hole wasn't great. I managed to clean the top hole with a tap but I couldn't get a tap to the bottom one. These guards were on the phase 2 engines and I like the way the engine bay looks with them.



    When I take the inlet manifold off I'll clean out the bottom thread so it'll be a lot easier to get a bolt in and I'll leave it off for now.


    The driver mirror had nile blue cap on so I thought I'd swap the mirror unit with one I was sent but the mirror was off a cabby so was different. I removed the cap and just swapped them but unfortunately I broke the mirror on the spare cabby unit.

    You can see the difference here, the connector and shape of the base are not the same.

    Not much difference in the colour.


    While the cap was off I took this opportunity to lube the pivot mechanism of the mirror. I used some chain spray, the stuff I have is runny when it comes out then congeals into a grease/gel.

    Sad




    01/08/16

    After this weekend I can say that the GTI is definitely more of a pain to work on then the HDI.

    I took me from 9am to 6pm on Saturday and then 9am the Sunday to 2AM Monday morning to replace the clutch, engine mounts, transmission oil seals, crank oil seal with the hockey seals.

    The dirty gearbox


    The whole car could have done with a soak in oil, loads of seized nuts, bolts and lot of surface rust on the chassis.

    First, I removed the battery and then the air box, on which only the one of the three fixings undid the other two broke off.






    With the airbox out the way I thought I'd take a look at the AC leak. The bolt holding the clamp also was seized and snapped off.



    On with the gearbox removal, I went to take the bolts that hold the power steering pipes off so I could keep it out the way when dropping the box but the one on the front snapped.



    The box, note the oil.


    How I remove the bottom ball joints.



    I found the O/S outer CV boot needs replacing soon. I had a spare boot but didn't get chance to change it this time.



    Throttle body next, all but one of the bottom bolts came out, that one was a pig. I sprayed it with oil and used an allen bit on a ratchet to get it undone, I was so careful not the round it or snap it.



    Is this much oil normal in the inlet?



    Gasket ripped on removal, but I had bought a spare.





    Back to the box, I missed there was another bolt right next to the one on the block. I had my socket over it in this photo.



    Also missed the second earth, don't know why they have two earth points next to each other.



    Next the air duct for the battery, this stud also broke. I know what you're thinking "bloody heavy handed twat" but I was very careful not to break them I tried the twist back and forth method with oil but no luck.



    Box off and a very dusty clutch revealed. The pin in the arm was also seized in so I had to bend the arm up to let the fork disengage.



    Bay without box.


    A very dusty bell housing. You can see where the chain spay made it up when I sprayed it the other week.



    A very worn clutch.



    Fly wheel in good condition.



    That was it for Saturday.


    Posted 19th Oct 2017 at 22:38
    deeturbo

    Regular

    Location: Leighton Buzzard

    Registered: 22 Feb 2003

    Posts: 283

    Status: Offline

    Post #7
    Sunday,

    I got the flywheel off to find this.



    I started to get the sump off to replace the hockey seals and crank oil seal. I couldn't hold the engine up from below so suspended it from above on a pole.





    While the oil was draining out the sump I started to give the box a wash and had a closer look at the fork shaft. As you can see the shaft is very rusty and it's no wonder the clutch is heavy with that rough surface against the bush causing resistance. I'm surprised it didn't eat the bushes being so rough.







    If I knew it was going to be so bad I'd have bought a new fork shaft. I would have thought Peugeot wouldn't have chromed the ends that have contact with the bushes, that would have been loads better and would be lighter for a lot longer.

    With the box off I was able to rotate the lever so I had access to the back and smashed the pin out with a pin punch.

    Back to the sump, once the oil was out I removed the AC pump. What a pain that was, to do this I had to lift the rad and pull it forward to allow access to the top bolt other wise the pump wouldn't rotate as it was hitting the extra inlet bend that goes to the oil cooler.

    With the pump off I removed the sum and to my horror I found a large washer in there.



    View of the bottom without the sump.



    No1 bearing cap and oil seal removed.



    Bearing cap, new and old hockey sticks.



    The shell in the cap looks to be in good condition.



    I used the Haynes tip on replacing the cap without stretching the hockey seals.



    Cap in place with only a couple of mm of the seal poking out.



    Sealant on the cleaned up sump surface.



    The now cleaner and dry box.







    Old and new clutch. There was only 2mm difference in the thickness of the old and new.



    Clutch in place.



    Cleaner box back in.



    The fluids were replaced, new oil filter on the engine and also the bottom and gearbox mounts replaced. Going to do the top hopefully one of the evenings.

    Hopefully the CV boot before it fails and the wishbone bushes are next on the list.



    02/08/16

    Got say a thank you to Cully as I messaged him when I got a bit nervous about taking the sump off and replacing the hockey seals.

    I would have liked to have taken more photos but time was an issue.

    With the clutch fork I clean the rust off and tried to polish up the areas that make contact with the bushes to make that movement as smooth as possible.

    I need to get some plastic rivets to replace the ones for the inner arch liner. What do you guys use?

    I used V-Tech Red Gasket Sealant Vital Red RTV



    http://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/p/car-accessories/car-maintenance-accessories/car-adhesives-tapes-sealants/quick-gasket/?549773385&0&cc5_139

    I wish I got something as a cartage and used a gun to apply it as it took some squeezing but it seems ok at the moment, time will tell.



    02/08/16

    Lunch time update

    Thought I'd replace the last engine mount. I left this one on the weekend as I knew it was easy to get to later in the week.

    New and old mount


    Good to see the mount cradle not being cracked.




    02/08/16

    I measured the force to apply the clutch and it's now the same as my Dturbo at 20kg. It feels lighter though as it might be smoother.

    I've still to swap the cable but the one on it has been changed recently by the previous owner so I doubt it making much difference.

    The only reason I bought another was because of the outer being damaged by being on the driveshaft at some point.

    I was glad to see no pools of oil under car lol I always get nervous about disturbing oil seals thinking they might not go on right and start leaking worse than they did before.



    14/08/16

    Couldn't do any work on the car last week as I was spannering at a kart race meeting up in the Lake District.

    Today was the only day this weekend I could work on the car. I decided to put a bit of paint on the ball joint shields as it doesn't take long for them to rust.





    The plan was to try and sort out the broken stud in the condenser and replace the wishbone bushes.

    As the paint was drying on the shields I started taking the front end apart.





    Bottom bumper bolts had seized in the retain clips so I drilled the heads off and I've got some nickel plated clips and stainless bolts to replace them with to help with future rust issue.



    When I got the condenser out I noticed most was in good condition but there was a small patch that didn't look good and had a slight leak, you can see the green dye.







    The PAS cooler has been cable tied on for some reason and it looks to be in good condition, I think it must have been replaced at some stage.



    The plug to the fans looked good with no green corrosion that you normally see.



    I got access to the inside of the chassis leg and I was able to get out the bit that snapped off the other week when I removed the airbox.



    No wonder it snapped.



    I didn't bring the spare condenser with me so I stuck the old one back on and put the front back together.

    Next I started on the wishbones.

    The front bushes had it so I replaced them with powerflex ones.



    The rear P bushes were the worst I've ever seen in a while.



    I found out the bottom ball joints aren't that great ether so I've got some on order. This one the little boot has been wearing on the shield.



    Wishbone with new Febi P bush and Powerflex front, ball joint to be replaced next week.



    After dinner I took the font end off again to replace the condenser. This time I took the bumper, lights and slam panel off in one go. This was the first time I'd done it like this.



    The new condenser was a pain to fit as it was all bent out of shape and took a lot of tweaking to fit.



    It was dark by the time I'd finished, can't believe the nights are getting longer again.


    Posted 22nd Oct 2017 at 21:47
    deeturbo

    Regular

    Location: Leighton Buzzard

    Registered: 22 Feb 2003

    Posts: 283

    Status: Offline

    Post #8
    21/08/16

    I didn't feel like doing much this weekend but the clutch pedal didn't feel right still so I thought I'd take a look at it.

    The throw on the pedal seemed too long and it seemed really high.



    It looks like someone did a bit of a bodge, they bent the bracket the stop and the clutch switch usually goes on. Also there was a bolt with a bit of rubber on.



    I took the pedal and bracket off to straighten and grease the pivot.



    I left the bolt on as I thought the pedal would be at the same height after straightening the bracket.



    The pedal back on and it feels so much better now.



    I also replaced the fuel pump relay as the casing was broken on the one on the car.



    That's it for today.



    06/09/16

    Been doing a couple more bits on the car, exhaust and seats.

    Bought a full set of seats from a chap off the forum. The seats are in great condition apart from the drivers, the back isn't too bad but the base is bad.

    I saw them and thought I could try swapping the base covers from the passenger to the drivers. The bases them selves are completely different because of the height adjust.

    The seats I bought.








    A bit of staining on the passenger base from storage.


    The two seats apart


    You can see the difference in the base here.


    Old out the car next to the replacement.


    £3.20 and a hair clip found at the side of the seat Smile


    New seat is in after a quick vacuum.


    It was a pain in the arse to do and not the best but it is passable.

    I bought a mid box off ebay so I can fit the rear box I bought a while back also the mid box that was on the car looked like it was the wrong model for this car, it was too short and as I've just found out the silencer is also too small. That'll explain why it was a lot louder than I expected.

    The exit pipe from the rear box to the tip on the old box went down to 45mm, where the rest of the system is 50mm.



    New box good to see 50mm.


    The difference in centre sections.


    I noticed a couple of issues with the new back box, one of the inlet flanges is not welded on at the correct angle.

    The centre just about sealed on the flange.



    The angle new and old.



    The worrying bit the hanger isn't welded right, the weld on the box has come away and the hanger is partially broken.


    Also there is a crack where the steel has been folded.


    I took the box back to Peugeot, I wanted to change it for the other they have but they said I had to order a new one the same then they'd take it back or book the car in to the service department for them to take a look at it. So the car is booked in for tomorrow. If the mechanic say it's ok I'll be charged £80 p/h lol.

    I told the guy that the box it not fit for purpose and I'm allowed a refund because of this but he said it's there procedure.

    I'm going to show the mechanic the photos before he takes the car on the remaps, if he say he needs to take a look himself I'm think of just taking it off myself and giving it him. I really don't want to be stuck with this dodgy box and have to pay another £80 on top.



    20/09/16
    Well I went and spoke to the service manager, showed him photos then argued with him for 10 mins. Then he said what I wanted to here, it wasn't his responsibility.

    I took the back box off there and then and took the still hot exhaust to the parts department where the service manager was talking to the parts manager. The crack in the skin now had signs of the exhaust gasses leaking.

    Took another 45 minutes of arguing with them saying I had damaged the box and them saying because it was fitted they wouldn't take it back and me stating it wasn't fit for purpose for them to find the other back box I ordered a while back (the one without the chrome tip) and you could clearly see the flange was on the p**s. At the start the Parts manager also said the flange couldn't be welded wrong, I said that yes it would have been in a jig but it still could have been in the jig wrong.

    After them getting the other box out the managers manner changed and was being more reasonable, I was happy with a swap for the better quality OE unit.

    The new back box has been fitted now and the car sounds awesome under load. Not as boomy on the motorway.

    I took the car up to Wolverhampton the other week to see my new niece and the got up there fine but while up there when I took my nephew out in it the clutch started feeling scratchy and heavier.

    When I got back I took the pedal apart and greased the moving parts but made no difference. I then thought it must be the cable as I didn't replace it when doing the clutch. I changed that tonight and now the clutch is so light, could be lighter than the 206 clutch.

    You can see here the plastic coating on the inner has come away so the scratchy feeling was the metal inner and outer were wearing on each other.



    Working in the dark again Sad


    It's no wonder the cable drys out, the cable is closer to the exhaust then on the HDI. I might have to make a heat shield to help.



    The car is going to be off the road for winter and I'm thinking of parking it up next week Sad Really going to miss driving it over the next 6 months.

    It would be nice if I could take the engine out over this time but I can't on the drive because of the slope Sad



    08/04/17

    Got started on this to today.

    There were some creaks and squeaks coming from the dash and a couple of bulbs out.

    I stripped down the centre console.


    Replaced the bulbs in the heater panel and cig light. I swapped the heater panel front with the one from the estate as the one on the '6 had a bit missing from the AC button and there were cracks in the black vinyl that allowed light to come through when the lights were on. So the only good part that came on the estate got swapped out on to this car.

    The back of the silver panels I attached some foam tape and cloth tape to stop the plastic creaking noises. I also re-positioned the passenger airbag as that would creak to. There was a bolt missing from the passenger side of the dash that allowed the dash to move about a little so fixed that and the dash was better fixed.






    Bloody N/S/F spring broke when moving the car off the drive. Gutted, but I've got some Eibach springs and Bilstein B8 to go on but I would have liked to have back to back them with the standard setup.

    You can't really see anything here but I took a photo anyway.




    I also got around to fitting the OEM centre section of the exhaust.
    The OEM next to the Klarus. The OEM box has a slightly smaller box.


    Little shied on the OEM box


    No welding on the connection piece to the back box on the OEM. I normally see the pattern systems fail here when that weld rots out.




    Can't wait to hear how it sounds once the car is back on the road.

    Hopefully sort the suspension out this week in the evenings once I have all the parts.
    Posted 22nd Oct 2017 at 23:12
    deeturbo

    Regular

    Location: Leighton Buzzard

    Registered: 22 Feb 2003

    Posts: 283

    Status: Offline

    Post #9
    24/04/17

    Last week I got the car back on the road.

    First thing I needed to sort out was this broken spring.



    I decided to remove the hub to make it easier to get the strut out.



    The strut removed.



    There was slight damage to the under seal from where the broken spring hit the body.



    The broken spring.





    Looks like the drop link was the one that came on the car from the factory. Date code says 99 and the they are TWR.



    I went to buy some springs off a chap off the '6 forum. He couldn't be bothered to remove them off the struts so he gave me complete strut units for the same price.

    They look very good at first sight.



    But the top mounts had seen better days.



    And there is a bit of rust on them.





    I got the compressors out to the replace the top mounts.



    The underside of the towers look nice and rust free, which I was very happy to see.



    I meant to replace the bottom ball joints when I had the wishbones off but I didn't have enough time then so done it this time.



    I had some paint left over a while back so I used it on the ball joint heat shields to stop them rusting.



    When I collected the car the previous owner told me he had the drop link on the O/S replaced and he had a spare that was meant to go on the N/S but I found the one he gave me was the wrong length.



    The strut all back together and back on the car.



    The standard audio setup on 2001 306's are very good and the main thing that improves them over the old set up is the tweeters in the mirror covers. They lift the sound stage and improve the sound image. So I bought some off a chap breaking a 1.4l car on FaceBook. Unfortunately the plastic has greyed over time, I'll need to sort that out at some point.



    I also installed a small sub and amp in the car. It was handy as a previous owner had left the cables in the car so it didn't take long to install.

    The last job I did was rotate the OSF tyre with the OSR and as I done up the last bolt I noticed something in the tyre. I thought it was a nail and I was thinking of leaving it there but I thought I best remove it.

    At this point I thought I had wasted my time. The whole point in getting this work done that day was so I could take the car away with me on a family holiday and there was no way I'd stick the spare on it for the trip. I had no energy left to borrow the wheels off the Dturbo.

    But thankfully it was only the tip of a screw and it hadn't gone deep, nowhere near going through the tyre.



    I then gave the Dturbo and '6 a quick wash.



    The car hit 130k on the way up to Wolverhampton.



    On the journey to Wolves I noticed a bit of creaking coming from the radio. I took the deck out and notice where the back of the deck has a rubber spindle and should engage in to something there was nothing for the spindle to rest on. It looks like the bracket is upside down and should be the other way.



    At my dad's I thought I'd replace the ICV and at the time I thought I had the wrong unit. For some silly reason I thought the shaft was meant the be the same length but I know think that the shaft on the new one is retracted and because I thought the new to be wrong at the time I just cleaned up the old unit and the plastic housing and put that back on the car. I then did a ECU reset which helped the idle.



    While away I noticed the breather pipe off the rocker cover was on the wrong way and I think this is the reason I was getting more oil than I thought there should be.



    I tried swapping the pipes around but they had hardened and the one pipe wouldn't go on the larger barb. In the end I cut off the squashed 20mm of the pipe and that was enough to get in on the barb. The engine seems a little happier now and hopefully it'll sort the oil issue. I was starting to think the oil was from excessive pressure from blow by and worn piston rings.

    The trip to wolves was two hours and then a three hour trip to North Yorkshire. I would have like to have done some local driving before going on such a long trip but everything went well.

    Next to do will be to replace the OSF bottom ball joint and top mount as the top mount makes a little noise when pushing that corner down. I would also need to replace the brake lines and then it'll be MOT time. I've also got a replacement windscreen to go on but I need to find someone to fit it.
    Posted 23rd Oct 2017 at 22:04
    mik

    Seasoned Pro

    Location: Kent

    Registered: 17 Feb 2011

    Posts: 2,100

    Status: Offline

    Post #10
    Great write-up, really enjoyed reading it. A lot of hard work there.

    ________________________________________

    Cherry Rallye SOLD

    Posted 26th Apr 2017 at 22:01
    oliverharveyuk@hotmail.co.uk

    Regular

    Location: Banbury

    Registered: 16 Feb 2016

    Posts: 231

    Status: Offline

    Post #11
    Yeah a great read these pics and info will be a great help!!

    ________________________________________

    98 Blaze 6 - Current
    Posted 27th Apr 2017 at 10:48
    deeturbo

    Regular

    Location: Leighton Buzzard

    Registered: 22 Feb 2003

    Posts: 283

    Status: Offline

    Post #12
    Thanks guys.

    There's lots more to do this year so expect lots more updates.

    I dropped the car off at the MOT station yesterday and I'm about to go collect it. The only thing I'm worried about is a chip in the windscreen that's in the field of view but it's not more than 10mm so it should pass.

    Mik, I hope that radio stalk is still working good for you and is your car on the road now?

    Oliver, have you had chance to fit the exhaust yet? The centre section does sound nicer than the Peugeot OEM unit. I might have to go back to that model.
    Posted 27th Apr 2017 at 11:20
    gretsch-drummer

    Regular

    Location: Leeds

    Registered: 12 Feb 2011

    Posts: 276

    Status: Offline

    Post #13
    How well did the ECP catalytic converter hold up in the emissions test? I need a new one before my next MOT, the oem is on its last legs.

    ________________________________________

    Ph1 Cossack 6'
    Posted 27th Apr 2017 at 14:56
    deeturbo

    Regular

    Location: Leighton Buzzard

    Registered: 22 Feb 2003

    Posts: 283

    Status: Offline

    Post #14
    I got the car back this morning, it's passed but now has an advisory on corrosion. It's the usual chassis leg business. I'll hopefully get that done this year sometime.

    gretsch-drummer wrote:
    How well did the ECP catalytic converter hold up in the emissions test? I need a new one before my next MOT, the oem is on its last legs.


    I've only done less than 2k in the car since replacing the cat and all journeys have been in its favour i.e. car got up to temp, driven over half hour each time.

    So basically I can't really give a good review on the longevity of it. Have you tried using a product called cataclean? I understand that it might not work on an old cat that has depleted it's exotic materials that make the thing work but a blast through with it in might help a little?

    If you do find a good replacement to OEM please let me know.
    Posted 27th Apr 2017 at 16:57
    deeturbo

    Regular

    Location: Leighton Buzzard

    Registered: 22 Feb 2003

    Posts: 283

    Status: Offline

    Post #15
    Last few evenings I went through and fixed the dead photos in this thread. What a rubbish job that was.

    This year unfortunately I've not had chance to do much on the car.

    I bought some TD 1.2 off eBay that were in great condition. I had the rubber that was on our 206 swapped on to these alloy as the 206 will be moved on.



    I went to fit them in June but found the new bolts I'd bought were slightly too long, only 5mm or so. When I tightened up the bolt it wouldn't screw in fully. There was plenty of thread but the thread was rusty and full of crap at the ends so I had to hold off fitting the wheels and order a tap to clean it out.

    August I got around to changing the other side bottom ball joint and strut.

    One on the right was the one off the car. I fitted new top mount to the left one.



    Bottom ball joint and new painted heat shield fitted to.



    I found this rubber hose separator sitting on the wish bone but I can't find where it came from, some say it's for the aircon pipes but the AC pipe isn't that small.



    Bought a cheap tap off eBay and the low cost showed. Burs all over the thing.





    I couldn't wait for a replacement to be sent out so I filed the burs off and it just about cleaned out the dirty threads. I also cleaned up the mating surfaces of the discs.



    Tunner bolts and new lock bolt.



    Loads of room for a caliper upgrade Wink



    The white really stands out.



    While cleaning the rear threads out I noticed there had been some signs of rubbing on the arch liner, it looks historical but I'll be splitting the beam and replacing the seals at the least maybe even the bearings and shafts depending on their condition.

    I had a weird rattle squeak coming from the dash centre console, I took the centre vents out, put a little grease between the plastics to stop them rattling and they feel a little better now when adjusting them.



    I also hot glued the plastic joints.

    Next to go on will be a replacement gear knob I found on here.


    Posted 24th Oct 2017 at 21:07
    oliverharveyuk@hotmail.co.uk

    Regular

    Location: Banbury

    Registered: 16 Feb 2016

    Posts: 231

    Status: Offline

    Post #16
    Loving the white on blue look amazing attention to detail!

    ________________________________________

    98 Blaze 6 - Current
    Posted 25th Oct 2017 at 11:18
    deeturbo

    Regular

    Location: Leighton Buzzard

    Registered: 22 Feb 2003

    Posts: 283

    Status: Offline

    Post #17
    Thanks Oliver.

    While the alloys were sitting in the garage I removed all the old sticky foam left over from the old balance weights that was on the inside of the rims, gave them a clean and a coating of wax to help when washing the brake dust off.

    The brake dust is going to be the main thing that's going to annoy me.

    I'd like to find some replacement centre caps with the Peugeot logo on them, there are plenty of the on eBay just need to find the right size.
    Posted 27th Oct 2017 at 19:57
    mik

    Seasoned Pro

    Location: Kent

    Registered: 17 Feb 2011

    Posts: 2,100

    Status: Offline

    Post #18
    quote:
    [quote="deeturbo"]
    Mik, I hope that radio stalk is still working good for you and is your car on the road now?


    I've been working away and the car was laid up for almost a year but in Sep I finally managed to fit the stalk and it is all good, thank you. Still need to fix all the broken pics in my project thread. Not looking forward to that.

    ________________________________________

    Cherry Rallye SOLD

    Posted 28th Oct 2017 at 07:16
    deeturbo

    Regular

    Location: Leighton Buzzard

    Registered: 22 Feb 2003

    Posts: 283

    Status: Offline

    Post #19
    While I'd got some time on my hands I thought I'd update this thread as it had been a while.

    The reason for the lack of updates, I'd been saving to buy a pile of bricks in the shape of a house, unfortunately I couldn't afford to get one with a garage and enough room to park all my cars.

    Not much had happened on the car in the last two years, in 2018 I'd swapped the N/S door with a less dented one but the shade is slightly off.

    You can see that the skins been pushed in and the check strap has creased the metal


    You can't really see it from a distance

    The wind is also slightly pushed in and I'd like to replace that to at some point and get them blown over so they match a little better and like a little tidier.

    Door removed


    You can see the shade is slightly off here



    Last year I had the seat I'd removed from the car repaired.

    You can see here a small bit of leather on the bolster had been replaced as the old one had started to wear through



    The seat back in the car


    How the seat was originally


    The alcantera on the base of the seat and the bit on the upper bolster were replaced.

    The quality of the work was average, good for the price but I wouldn't of minded paying more for a better finish.

    At the moment the car is parked up at my parents place just over 100 miles away.

    I think one of the first things I'll do after an oil and filter change is going to be swap out the drivers door handle as it Nile blue.

    I was hoping to build a 6m x 5m workshop at the rear of the house but it has no rear access and only 1.7m wide alley to get to the rear so it'll mainly be used for my karting stuff.

    I say hoping, I was meant to start it two weeks ago but with all that's going on I've been put on furlough. I'm not sure how my work will come back after this all subsides so there might be redundancies in the near future and I can't afford to spend my saving on the workshop at the moment.







    Posted 18th Apr 2020 at 13:17
    deeturbo

    Regular

    Location: Leighton Buzzard

    Registered: 22 Feb 2003

    Posts: 283

    Status: Offline

    Post #20
    Car went in for it's MOT, I did my normal checks and I was confident it would pass with no issues but unfortunately things didn't go to plan and while waiting outside the test station I heard the guy proding about checking around the crusty bit and I heard the horrid sound of rust caving in.

    Both the N/S/F and O/S/F chassis stiffeners had rusted through.





    Posted 20th Sep 2022 at 12:50

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