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Author Subject: Dimma suspension
pugheaven

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Location: Fareham

Registered: 17 Dec 2006

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Post #1
Not posted on here for a while and haven't done anything to the car for along time now but iv got some plans for it over the winter.

My plan is to tub the front inner arches and get the front end a little lower.

It appears that no one makes a bump steer kit or roll centre kit for the 306 still Sad was hoping Bridgecraft would sort something but I don't think they are bothering any more.

I also need to find some decent suspension for the front like somr short body dampers, the rears I have been thinking about turreting and fitting coilovers.

I know that Colin Satchel is the man to go to but I don't think I have the funds to use him.

Anyone got any ideas on resolving my bump steer, roll centre and shorter damper problem
Posted 8th Dec 2016 at 11:16
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welshpug!

Capt Pedantic

Location: Bigend, Wales.

Registered: 27 Mar 2007

Posts: 25,838

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Post #2
http://www.krs-competition.com/

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need a part number? get on here - http://public.servicebox.peugeot.com

Bring on the Trumpets.

Posted 8th Dec 2016 at 11:51
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prism7guy

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Location: DoncastAAAAARGH

Registered: 13 Jan 2008

Posts: 4,640

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Post #3
Are you using normal uprights?
I haven't seen how a dimma goes about using a balljoint or track rod end in the flesh for years, is the TRE the normal taper type fit into the upright? Did dimma just use track rod extenders and normal rod ends? If using balljoints, are they the 18mm type?
How far back are your brake rotors offset?

Have you got any pictures of it all to have a look at?

I need to correct the roll centre on mine, one of my projects for over winter.

________________________________________

Goldie the track car.
Posted 8th Dec 2016 at 16:42
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Day666

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Location: Bristol

Registered: 20 Apr 2013

Posts: 5,214

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Post #4
Try Black Art Design that Dennis has & ive copied LOL

Contact John / owner 01376 617610.
Can & will make you anything you want in house at sensible ish price my fronts we're £2k Whistle
Posted 8th Dec 2016 at 17:18
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RallyeRed

Regular

Location: Northwich

Registered: 03 May 2016

Posts: 353

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Post #5
Can't you do a rose joint and a rod plus a spacer?
I think Carl did a rose joint mod on his race car (the rose joint bit on a standard wishbone), then it's just a a rod through the upright with desired depth of spacer.
I'd be interested to know though if you make double ended threaded spacer which screws done onto the Ball joint thread, and then a hi-ten bolt through the knuckle which screws into the spacer from above. I'm not certain how acceptable that solution would be tho?
Posted 8th Dec 2016 at 17:40
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prism7guy

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Location: DoncastAAAAARGH

Registered: 13 Jan 2008

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Post #6
That's why i was asking for pictures, mine is basically just a rod through the upright, a spacer, the rose joint, a special washer then a nyloc.
Below is the pin that runs through the upright, it was tweaked after this photo to clear the abs ring on the driveshaft.


I was asking about brake offset as I put the rotor as far back as possible with standard balljoints, as shown below:
[/IMG]

I did the brakes before making new wishbones though, so in hindsight i should have thought about roll centre etc before doing that and left more room behind the rotor, but that would have meant spacing the wheels further out which would affect other geometry.
Space is still tight behind the rotor with it being rose jointed now, excuse the pin in the image, it was just what i had to hand for checking everything.

________________________________________

Goldie the track car.
Posted 8th Dec 2016 at 18:33
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RallyeRed

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Location: Northwich

Registered: 03 May 2016

Posts: 353

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Post #7
Nicely done Smile
Posted 8th Dec 2016 at 21:38
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pugheaven

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Location: Fareham

Registered: 17 Dec 2006

Posts: 4,602

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Post #8
These are the only photos I have at the min and would say between the rotor and the ball joint there is around 5mm clearance.

The wishbones are probably 5-10 degrees from horizontal with the car on the ground.

I don't have the cash I used to and money is tied up in the house for now.

Dint have the cash for tubular wishbones so if an original ball joint can be modified to take a rose joint/ Spherical bearing thst would be a better option.

The dimma uses standard hubs with track rod extensions, they are 18mm hubs using the standard taper pin and pinch bolt.

I would like to lower the car another 15-20mm ideally.






Posted 10th Dec 2016 at 12:20
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welshpug!

Capt Pedantic

Location: Bigend, Wales.

Registered: 27 Mar 2007

Posts: 25,838

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Post #9
306 doesn't use a taper pin.

________________________________________

need a part number? get on here - http://public.servicebox.peugeot.com

Bring on the Trumpets.

Posted 10th Dec 2016 at 12:23
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pugheaven

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Location: Fareham

Registered: 17 Dec 2006

Posts: 4,602

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Post #10
Sorry was getting the track rod end and ball joint muddled up
Posted 10th Dec 2016 at 12:51
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clen666

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Location: Co. Durham

Registered: 12 Feb 2009

Posts: 2,401

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Post #11
What brake kit do you have fitted, Oli?

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Team 'unintentional rat look'
Posted 10th Dec 2016 at 13:09
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pugheaven

Seasoned Pro

Location: Fareham

Registered: 17 Dec 2006

Posts: 4,602

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Post #12
Ap racing 315mm 4 pots, will go bigger when the rotors die
Posted 10th Dec 2016 at 13:56
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clen666

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Location: Co. Durham

Registered: 12 Feb 2009

Posts: 2,401

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Post #13
What size you thinking of?

Do the current ones look lost under the 18s?

________________________________________

Team 'unintentional rat look'
Posted 10th Dec 2016 at 14:30
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pugheaven

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Location: Fareham

Registered: 17 Dec 2006

Posts: 4,602

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Post #14
Yup they look tiny under 18" considering they fit under 16" maybe even some 15s

Maybe 365mm or something like that, just want to fill the wheel, they are awesome brakes even at 315mm
Posted 10th Dec 2016 at 14:36
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