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Author Subject: Suspension setup
shabusta

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Post #1
how do you properly setup coil overs?

Reading through this old thread has given me some good starting points:
http://www.306gti6.com/forum/showthread.php?id=142733&page=1

i have the same bouncy issue as mentioned in the previous thread, but mainly on large drops or speed bumps,
it feels as if the car is jumping forward or leaping over gaps, causing traction loss, whereas on the stock setup,
you would not notice it as much or just roll through it.

I have 3~cm of possible lowering to un-stiffen the springs and give the helper spring more play,
but this reduces the amount of strut vertical movement? how do you find the right balance of spring rate and vertical movement?

the rear end is just as important? the rear beam is "good" just aged, and like my old struts needing some work,
in my un professional opinion the rear struts need to be stiffened, or proper work to be done on the beam.


on spax the car is meant to be lowered 30mm~ i agree the back has but i get the feeling the front has actually been raised does any one have a proper height value to a known location i can measure?

i have also notice a lot more physical force is being placed on the body of the car, am i meant to stiffen parts of the car or it should hold fine?
Posted 6th Jan 2016 at 21:45
barrym

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Post #2
Erm, adjusting the ride height doesn't affect spring rate or stiffness. All it does is alter the ride height and weight distribution. You are not compressing the springs just moving them up or down the strut

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Posted 6th Jan 2016 at 22:16
shabusta

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Post #3
By adjusting the location of the nuts the springs are more compressed higher ride height or less compressed lower ride height, pre and post weight tension?
Posted 6th Jan 2016 at 22:18
adam b

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Post #4
Well you might be adjusting preload.

I'd back off the damping until the bounce stops. You want more rear stiffness than front.

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Posted 6th Jan 2016 at 22:24
barrym

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Post #5
I don't think so. The spring compression is the same, just the bottom of the spring is moved up or down and the spring moves the car upor down accordingly

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Posted 6th Jan 2016 at 22:25
barrym

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Post #6
Are we talking about the big ring around the strut/base of spring or a small adjuster on ther damper?

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Posted 6th Jan 2016 at 22:27
shabusta

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Post #7
i probably am wrong, what i am getting at is the lower the nut the more upward shock the helper spring can absorb which is softer, instead of it being 90% compress. but in the adverse this lowers its downward force, but the ARB should compensate for this.

the height adjustment nuts, i will also need to look into the dampening rates as well.
Posted 6th Jan 2016 at 22:31
barrym

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Post #8
OK. The height adjustment nuts should not affect the spring rate at all. Also forget about the ARB, it only really comes into play when cornering to stop the car rolling. It should not be affecting the car noticeably over speed humps.

What coilovers do you have? Is the damping adjustable?

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Posted 6th Jan 2016 at 22:35
shabusta

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Post #9
oops right, SPAX RSX, Yes dampening is adjustable, okay start from scratch i know nothing, educate me.
Posted 6th Jan 2016 at 22:37
barrym

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Post #10
OK so they have adjustable damping but the spring rate is fixed. SPAX are generally regarded as pretty heavily sprung, by which I mean the springs give a hard ride. Whether that is down to the springs themselves or the damping I am not sure. The only time I had Spax was with non-adjustable dampers.

The first thing would be to set the ride height to what you think is right for the car and set the damping adjuster to mid-point. If the car seems too firm with insufficient give then back the damping off. if it seems too bouncy then increase the damping.

Once you have found a setting you are happy with then the ride height can be re-adjusted to alter weight distribution to alter the way the car behaves in a bend. The damping may need some further tweeking after this.

On my car, with KW suspension I have found that just 6mm of front ride height alters the car from a lift off over-steer scary MF to a well balanced car that lets go front and back at the same time

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Posted 6th Jan 2016 at 22:45
shabusta

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Post #11
Thank you, that is very helpful.

To clarify from before, my 30mm~ of play is the height i have available before i get close to my driveway when mounting the kerb, not my total height adjustment available.

would you have a rough height value at a given point on the car? so i know if it has actually been lowered or not,
the spax rsx are meant to be 30mm~ forced lowering then they have 30mm~ to 70mm~ in adjustment.
Posted 6th Jan 2016 at 22:56
barrym

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Post #12
Hmm never had a 306 with standard supension but would guess that -30 would be 3 fingers between the tyre and wheel arch? But i am running 50 profile tyres and have absolutely no idea how much mine has been lowered at the front. I do know mine is -40 at the rear and I just set my car up to handle to my liking through trial and error. My damping is non-adjustable though

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Posted 6th Jan 2016 at 23:04
shabusta

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Post #13
fair enough, within the next week or so my new team dynamics 1.2s and 50 profile, PS3s should arrive.
yea three fingers on most sides closer to 4 on some, but i think that is just because there was a few weeks between installation,
give it a while and they should settle, i will probably lower the front a bit, and definitely stiffen the rears.
Posted 6th Jan 2016 at 23:08
shabusta

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Post #14
Stiffened the rear suspension to 12 turns out of 24.
it has made a massive difference to seating comfort, steering, traction, stability and more.

i will probably lower the front when i can be bothered.

Customs took my rims and tires!!!! Angry
Posted 7th Jan 2016 at 06:06
adam b

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Post #15
barrym wrote:
I don't think so. The spring compression is the same, just the bottom of the spring is moved up or down and the spring moves the car upor down accordingly


You are adding preload on the spring moving the base up. If it's squashed the helper completely.
Just change the damping until you are happy with it.

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Posted 7th Jan 2016 at 07:20
adam b

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Post #16
Ideally you want slight rake on the car. A tad down on the front, too much and it becomes unstable on turn in

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Posted 7th Jan 2016 at 07:21
shabusta

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Post #17
60 / 40 split, can this be done by measuring specific points on the car then calculating the differences?

or just use a level under the side skirt?
Posted 7th Jan 2016 at 12:50

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