Hi all

A great site and community!

Finally after many years I've got myself a GTI6! I wanted one at University but obviously couldn't afford it, so all these years later I have one!

What a great great car. I bought a Phase 3 in Diablo red with 79K and almost 1 lady owner from new. I know my cars well, and this one is a peach. I cannot imagine many of these are left now with such extensive history and completely standard!

I have some urgent questions I hope you guys can help with. I'll list them below;

1 - Tapping! Belt snapped before the second change in 2011 due to pulley failure. The car has been to the same Peugeot specialist for 12 years and everything is documented.

They took the head off, fitted 16 new valves and built the lot back up with gaskets/belts/water pump etc to the tune of £1500!

How can I be tapping with all that lot done? The ladies husband said it's been like that since the head job all those years ago and was claiming its down to the bucket and shim clearances; I promptly informed him the engine has hydraulic tappets!

Not the worst noise in the world but still well annoying.

Anything I can do? Kind of sounds tappet like?

2 - Cambelt is due! I don't know any Peugeot people at all (usually buy BMW's/Hondas) so I'm a bit stuck! The belt kit is cheap from ECP as is the water pump but I'd like someone to do it privately to save costs.

I'm based in Essex.

Does anyone know of hands on 306 home mechanics who can do this on a Saturday morning for me? I don't mind travelling chaps.

3 - Coolant! Just wondering what coolant these cars take? Red or Blue?

4 - Rear shocks! The car saw a major front suspension rebuild recently including shocks, springs, lower arms, track rods, drop links etc but the rear dampers, as good as they feel, might be worth changing.

What rear dampers to get?

Bilstein B4
Bilstein B6
KYB Ultra SR
KYB Excel G

5 - Clutch cable! There are so many listed for the 306 I'm struggling to find the right one. It all works fine, its just the pedal is heavy and feels like the cable is really taught in the sheath.

Anyone know where to get one? Again, can anyone around Essex fit this for me for a fee? I know you guys will have done this before.

Appreciate your responses chaps.

I hope I can chip in as required.

Cheers

Rez

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Finally got a GTI!

Cheers bud.

Yeah its certainly not a loud 'tap'. Sounds almost like an injector tap? Could be a tappet I suppose.

Stan if you are around please PM me buddy.

I'll check the fronts and if they are B4's I'll just get a B4 set for the rear.

I hear the clutch cable is a b**ch; I'd rather a forum member would do it for me whilst I helped.

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Finally got a GTI!

Armzs16 on here works at a pug specialist in kent/sussex and does all my maintenance. He knows his s**t and could sort it.

Mine has a few noisey lifters but the tap goes after 5 mins. If your tap never goes it's most likely a few bent valves done whilst fitting the new head. Only cure would be to replace the head or engine.

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See the sheer power and might of the lesser known burrowing owl.

Rarely clutch cable, the Cross shaft (Clutch arm) get's rusty and the top and lower bush's wear, replace those along with a clutch and it's pretty light, Not Ford light thou

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306 Rallye Sptint/Race Car, 205 CTI 1.9 8v to name a few

Road, Track and Race/Rally car preparation to your personal requirements,
Full Workshop & Diagnostic Facilities
New and Second parts, from Plugs to Turbo's
We now also carry out Routine Servicing
www.pugracing.com

& FB Page, https://www.facebook.com/PugRacing

Ebay; http://stores.ebay.co.uk/Pug-Racing-Shop

2012/2013/2014/2019 Class Winners at Gurston Down Speed Hillclimb & Joint overall, Class record too along the way,

Nope.
Mine was as bad all the time and was tappets. Bent valves and guides would fail fairly quickly

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Nothing to see here

I can do the belt, and sort the clutch and head out if need be - although I'm based near Portsmouth.

The head could be tapping for a number of reasons - most likely the valves.

People often re-fit the head with the cams fitted, this is the worst thing you can do - catch a protruding valve on the block, more than likely it will get bent. Also the valves foul each other if you turn the cam sprockets independently. It could also be a guide or seat issue.

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Contact Details:

rich@lynxpowerengineering.co.uk
07732 822546

Probably not much point replacing the rear dampers unless they're buggered. It's likely the rear beam will need replacing if it hasn't been done before now. Replace the dampers then.

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1999 Astor Grey GTi-6 OEM+

I've just replaced my rear shocks with OE Pug ones. The factory suspension is very good unless you are making it into a track monster.

Great to hear about your purchase, sounds nice with good history.

Find a good mechanic to look after it - as someone else said they are hard to find!

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Cherry Rallye SOLD