Guys,

Anyone got a rough idea on cost of replacing a section of sill on a 306?

Probably going to need the section from just in front of the front drivers side jacking point to about 8-10 inches behind it replacing. I won't be happy until it has been as its been properly mashed with a trolley Jack and rusty inside the seams...

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Cherry Red Rallye .... On going OEM spec resto

China Blue GTi6 .... Weekend toy

Black 208 GTi .... Wife's car now

Silver BMW 550i.... The executive missile

Could you separate the steel that is already there, treat it to stop rust, bend it back into shape and paint with weld through primer then make a new U-shaped section to wrap it in?

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China D Turbo HDi daily charger
Black Rallye occassional toy

fairplay to you mate, that would be the way I would want to go too.

The way I see it though, and i may well be wrong here, is that section is made up of three parts.

The outer sill as mik has said, the strengthener and the inner sill/floorpan. If the spot weld is the bit in that pic that seems to be holding all that together an inch or so to the left of the axle stand in your pic it will have to come out anyway.

My solution is however biased by the over £500 bill for the repair to the passenger side cross member on my car

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China D Turbo HDi daily charger
Black Rallye occassional toy

Yes, three layers (floorpan, stiffener and outer sill) come together at the bottom where they are spot welded. The jacking point is part of the stiffener. Use Etchweld weld-through primer on all bare metal surfaces. Once the sill cover is off you will be able to see the extent of the rust. My sill had been pushed in with a trolley jack in the same place as your pic and had rusted a small hole where the metal had kinked. The surface rust around the hole inside extended about 3 - 4 inches either side of the hole. The stiffener had an area of rust about 8" by 1" and was replaced with a piece from a new stiffener. The floorpan part was OK and was cleaned up. Once all welded together, I sprayed zinc primer using an injection lance inside the sill on both sides of the stiffener to cover all the new welds on the inside. Once that was dry I sprayed cavity wax inside both sills.

Spot welded seams on any old cars will have some degree of rust in them, as even if the steel is protected before welding, the spot weld will burn some of the protection away. Adjacent layers of steel also rust much faster as condensation gets trapped between them. The cavity wax in the sill will dribble down and penetrate the seam, which will inhibit rust.

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Cherry Rallye SOLD