|
displaying posts 1 to 21 of 21
| Author | Subject: Front suspension overhaul, what else to replace? |
 luke89
Regular  Location: Preston Registered: 28 Aug 2014 Posts: 486 Status: Offline |
Post #1
So I am fitting a pair of pug springs to my '6 as the ones on the car are a crappy combination of 2 non matching KYB springs.Whilst I am at it I'm going to fit new top mount bearings,P bushes(partner) and front bushes on the wishbones. Is there anything else that will be easily accessible and worth doing whilst I have those parts off?Cheers. |
 Posted 19th Nov 2014 at 00:40
|
|
|
Tarmac terror
Regular  Location: Southampton Registered: 20 Mar 2014 Posts: 458 Status: Offline |
Post #2
Balljoints, track rods and ends, anti-roll bar bushes, anti-roll bar links......TT |
|
Posted 19th Nov 2014 at 09:53
|
|
|
MisterGTR
Senior User  Location: Glasgow Registered: 05 Aug 2014 Posts: 675 Status: Offline |
Post #3
I was going to put together a comprehensive list of what to buy and where from. So this will be helpful. Ta________________________________________ Turned 40 and in true cliched fashion buying one of the cars of my teenage dreams! |
|
Posted 19th Nov 2014 at 10:03
|
|
|
Tarmac terror
Regular Location: Southampton Registered: 20 Mar 2014 Posts: 458 Status: Offline |
Post #4
If you REALLY want to go to town then I would suggest....Front wishbone bushes Rear P-bushes Lower balljoints Track rods Track rod ends Anti-roll bar bushes Anti-roll bar links Top mounts Top mount bearings New springs New dampers (recommend Bilstein B4's if you just want something better than OEM but not coil-over stiff!!!) Once you have done all that you will effectively have replaced the whole lot! Other things to consider would be:- Full set of engine mounts Rear mount fork bush Steering rack gaiters Gear linkages They're not expensive and definately bring the car back to a factory feel.. Just don't buy the cheapest tat off Ebay!!! TT |
|
Posted 19th Nov 2014 at 14:28
|
|
|
MisterGTR
Senior User Location: Glasgow Registered: 05 Aug 2014 Posts: 675 Status: Offline |
Post #5
Scott you're a star. Thanks. That's exactly the list I wanted to compile. I need a set of rears for the fat Datsun. That lot will probably cost the same.  The only difference will be that I will Probably (unless convinced otherwise) go for b8 shocks as part of b12 kit. And I'll also get (if he's still doing) jord to do rear beam. All really depends on what I can get done in this weather on the drive. I keep thinking I'll take it to a garage to get it done quicker, but that would defeat the point! ________________________________________ Turned 40 and in true cliched fashion buying one of the cars of my teenage dreams! |
|
Posted 19th Nov 2014 at 14:38
|
|
|
MisterGTR
Senior User Location: Glasgow Registered: 05 Aug 2014 Posts: 675 Status: Offline |
Post #6
Oh and lemforder etc as suggested. ________________________________________ Turned 40 and in true cliched fashion buying one of the cars of my teenage dreams! |
|
Posted 19th Nov 2014 at 14:39
|
|
|
luke89
Regular Location: Preston Registered: 28 Aug 2014 Posts: 486 Status: Offline |
Post #7
Cheers folks. Ordered so far: Pug OEM springs Partner P-bushes Front wishbone bushes Top mount bearings I intend to leave the top mounts themselves as I don't see any advantage to changing them if I've put new bearings in.I also can't afford new shocks so they will remain standard for now at least. Still to order: Lower Balljoints Track rod ends ARB bushes Arb drop links Gear Linkages Gear shift bushes(I believe there are a couple of these?) Clutch cable I am hoping all this will give me the handling and gear change I am after as at the moment it really doesn't feel good. |
|
Posted 19th Nov 2014 at 14:40
|
|
|
luke89
Regular Location: Preston Registered: 28 Aug 2014 Posts: 486 Status: Offline |
Post #8
Also what is the advantage of changing the track rod itself? The TRE is the only wear and tear part I would have thought? |
|
Posted 19th Nov 2014 at 17:05
|
|
|
welshpug!
Capt Pedantic  Location: Bigend, Wales. Registered: 27 Mar 2007 Posts: 25,839 Status: Offline |
Post #9
there's a balljoint on its inner end.________________________________________ need a part number? get on here - http://public.servicebox.peugeot.comBring on the Trumpets. |
|
Posted 19th Nov 2014 at 17:20
|
|
|
luke89
Regular Location: Preston Registered: 28 Aug 2014 Posts: 486 Status: Offline |
Post #10
Ah ok cool. So what are my best bet for front shocks if I can't afford Billies? |
|
Posted 20th Nov 2014 at 17:27
|
|
|
Tarmac terror
Regular Location: Southampton Registered: 20 Mar 2014 Posts: 458 Status: Offline |
Post #11
You'll get a pair of front B4's for about £85...TT |
|
Posted 20th Nov 2014 at 17:39
|
|
|
walker_texasranger
Seasoned Pro  Location: Sunny Retford Registered: 26 Jan 2008 Posts: 2,502 Status: Offline |
Post #12
Spooks were always pretty reasonable for the standard B4 shocks  If you are just changing the clutch cable to cure a heavy clutch then it's probably not worth it, it will feel amazing for about a week then revert back to its normal state  ________________________________________ Almost standard 1999 Bianca RallyeHilux InvincibleX daily 306 No.13  Carp and specialist Anglers Click here |
|
Posted 22nd Nov 2014 at 09:45
|
|
|
luke89
Regular Location: Preston Registered: 28 Aug 2014 Posts: 486 Status: Offline |
Post #13
Is that because they dry out again or because of the auto adjuster? Because I think my adjuster is screwed anyway, the clutch pedal never feels consistent so a new cable may well sort that. |
|
Posted 22nd Nov 2014 at 19:32
|
|
|
MisterGTR
Senior User Location: Glasgow Registered: 05 Aug 2014 Posts: 675 Status: Offline |
Post #14
luke89 wrote: Is that because they dry out again or because of the auto adjuster? Because I think my adjuster is screwed anyway, the clutch pedal never feels consistent so a new cable may well sort that. I've read about something on the clutch pedal which can be removed. Think there is an faq on it.Might be worth tying. ________________________________________ Turned 40 and in true cliched fashion buying one of the cars of my teenage dreams! |
|
Posted 22nd Nov 2014 at 19:39
|
|
|
bigbadbowen
Seasoned Pro  Location: Winchester Registered: 21 Nov 2003 Posts: 13,753 Status: Offline |
Post #15
MisterGTR wrote: luke89 wrote: Is that because they dry out again or because of the auto adjuster? Because I think my adjuster is screwed anyway, the clutch pedal never feels consistent so a new cable may well sort that. I've read about something on the clutch pedal which can be removed. Think there is an faq on it.Might be worth tying. Helper spring on back of clutch pedal. It was a recall years ago to be removed  Heavy clutch will be a combination of worn clutch and cable change both for a nice light pedal |
|
Posted 22nd Nov 2014 at 19:57
|
|
|
luke89
Regular Location: Preston Registered: 28 Aug 2014 Posts: 486 Status: Offline |
Post #16
Sadly I can't afford to change the clutch at the minute so the cable may be a nice stop gap, I'll have a quick look for that spring too, sounds like that may make a difference if its still fitted. |
|
Posted 22nd Nov 2014 at 20:47
|
|
|
mellowr1
Senior User  Location: Maidstone Registered: 12 Jun 2012 Posts: 995 Status: Offline |
Post #17
had my clutch cable changed few months back as the adjuster messed up. Totally changed the car ..... lovely feel to clutch and hasnt gone too stiff yet |
|
Posted 22nd Nov 2014 at 21:18
|
|
|
bigbadbowen
Seasoned Pro Location: Winchester Registered: 21 Nov 2003 Posts: 13,753 Status: Offline |
Post #18
luke89 wrote: Sadly I can't afford to change the clutch at the minute so the cable may be a nice stop gap, I'll have a quick look for that spring too, sounds like that may make a difference if its still fitted. Then get a cable and then save for a clutch ? You can pick them up for about £60 -£100 Cables are a fooker to fit on a 6 as well |
|
Posted 22nd Nov 2014 at 21:22
|
|
|
luke89
Regular Location: Preston Registered: 28 Aug 2014 Posts: 486 Status: Offline |
Post #19
Its more the fitting costs Bowen, I've done a few clutches in my time and have the scars to prove it but I just can't take the time off work and I'd have to do the job on axle stands which is a royal PITA! |
|
Posted 22nd Nov 2014 at 21:58
|
|
|
bigbadbowen
Seasoned Pro Location: Winchester Registered: 21 Nov 2003 Posts: 13,753 Status: Offline |
Post #20
Get some one to help you bud ? It's a 2 man job to get the box back on as its a proper cvnt to get the box back on with the fork arm going behind the thrust bearing as well as having the input shaft dead square I've only ever done clutches on axel stands - clutch arm pin is usually a proper biatch to get out if it's never been out. I also suggest use cable ties to hold the loom out the way when re fitting the box as I've trapped plugs loads of times. Also if you do have a go your self check the fork arm is in the right place before you put everything back on the car - it's easy to get it wrong and have to start all again Oh and while your at it change the crank seal |
|
Posted 22nd Nov 2014 at 23:19
|
|
|
Kenan
Regular  Location: Exmouth Registered: 20 Oct 2013 Posts: 307 Status: Offline |
Post #21
Tarmac terror wrote: TT I owned a GTR a few years back and you forum names seems familar, or am I just going mad ?!? |
|
Posted 13th May 2015 at 23:34
|
|
The Peugeot GTi-6 & Rallye Owners Club - ©2024 all rights reserved.
Please Note: The views and opinions found herein are those of individuals, and not of The Peugeot 306 GTi-6 & Rallye Owners Club or any individuals involved.
No responsibility is taken or assumed for any comments or statements made on, or in relation to, this website. Please see our updated privacy policy.