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Author Subject: setting my timing
bunty99

Newbie

Location: hexham

Registered: 01 Jun 2014

Posts: 14

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Post #1
quick question I have recently had my head off as I thought I has bent valves as I had dreaded tapping but turns out my tappets where just knackered..

anyway my question is to set my timing back up do I just need to lock the crack and the cams in to there respective locking holes and then refit belt, does that set the timing up..

I did mark everything before I took if off so I could set it back up with my marks but not 100% confident in it as I know the timing needs to be spot on with these engines


Posted 1st Jul 2014 at 22:42
stan_306gti6 Forum Admin

Location: Kent

Registered: 18 Jan 2004

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Post #2
Yes, but make sure that the crank pulley lines up ok and that it hasn't slipped.

Also, how do you know the valves were ok? Did you visibly check them? If so, there are probably a couple bent. You need to remove them from the head and spin them up in a drill to be certain. Bent valves which cause the tapping can't usually be seen by the naked eye just looking at one static.

I'd hate for you to put it all back together and then it still taps...

________________________________________

"Supercharged - 454.1bhp/317.5lb/ft"
Peugeot 306 GTi-6
2000 (X), Moonstone Love
Posted 1st Jul 2014 at 22:52
bunty99

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Location: hexham

Registered: 01 Jun 2014

Posts: 14

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Post #3
stan_306gti6 wrote:
Yes, but make sure that the crank pulley lines up ok and that it hasn't slipped.

Also, how do you know the valves were ok? Did you visibly check them? If so, there are probably a couple bent. You need to remove them from the head and spin them up in a drill to be certain. Bent valves which cause the tapping can't usually be seen by the naked eye just looking at one static.

I'd hate for you to put it all back together and then it still taps...



I had It in engineering shop and they stripped it down to replace any valves and guides. and they said that they were all fine..

the crank pully locking hole is behind the pully the belt goes on (if that makes sence, behind the pully that comes off as I didn't see any holes in the pully when I took it off?
Posted 1st Jul 2014 at 22:58
buzzbrightyear

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Post #4
Make sure the crank pulley hasn't slipped round on the harmonic damper.

________________________________________

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Moonstone phase 7 gti6
My Project thread: http://www.306gti6.com/forum/showthread.php?id=119992&page=1
Posted 1st Jul 2014 at 23:10
bunty99

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Location: hexham

Registered: 01 Jun 2014

Posts: 14

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Post #5
buzzbrightyear wrote:
Make sure the crank pulley hasn't slipped round on the harmonic damper.


what is the harmonic damper?

if I line up and lock the crank pully in to its locking pin hole.. then do the same for cams.. this will set the cams up fine wont it?
Posted 1st Jul 2014 at 23:21
stan_306gti6 Forum Admin

Location: Kent

Registered: 18 Jan 2004

Posts: 21,768

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Post #6
No offence, but if you don't know what the harmonic balancer is you probably didn't ought to be doing this job.
For someone who knows what they are doing it's incredibly easy to mess up, let alone someone who doesn't.

The harmonic balancer is the bottom pulley. You'll see it consists of two metal parts, joined together with a rubber seal in the middle. If the outer part spins on the rubber relative to the inner part then you cannot use it for valve timing.

Do a search on here for cam timing, cambelts etc. make sure you know *exactly* how to do this task. It's very delicate - and costly if you make a mistake.

________________________________________

"Supercharged - 454.1bhp/317.5lb/ft"
Peugeot 306 GTi-6
2000 (X), Moonstone Love
Posted 1st Jul 2014 at 23:28
buzzbrightyear

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Post #7
I agree with cock soup flavour noodles there

________________________________________

andrew315rawson@live.co.uk
Moonstone phase 7 gti6
My Project thread: http://www.306gti6.com/forum/showthread.php?id=119992&page=1
Posted 1st Jul 2014 at 23:29
allanallen

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Location: Buxton

Registered: 01 May 2007

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Post #8
It's not as simple as locking everything off at all. The cam pullies (depending on style) either need the centre bolt or the 3 locking bolts undoing so the pulley can move indepenantly to the locked hub. If you don't you can't tension the belt without throwing the timing out.

There's a guide I F&Q so have a look.

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Posted 2nd Jul 2014 at 08:24
oldbrownshoe

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Location: Holon Israel

Registered: 08 Aug 2008

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Post #9
You can use suitable drill or grind steel rod to the correct diameter for locking the cam sprockets,
8-6 mm.

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Posted 2nd Jul 2014 at 08:45
bigbadbowen

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Location: Winchester

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Post #10
Get a solid pulley that way you know it's tinned correctly ? As said the cams have a slider mech on them to allow tensioning of the belt correctly !
Posted 2nd Jul 2014 at 10:39
bunty99

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Location: hexham

Registered: 01 Jun 2014

Posts: 14

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Post #11
managed to get belt on and timed up fine.. but after top end rebuild my bottom end has gone now??

car ran fine for bout 30mins twice (SO 60mins total) as I ran it up to temp and let it cool twice then on the third time bottom end has started knocking..

specifically its knocking is much louder below no4 cylinder then any other
Posted 2nd Jul 2014 at 17:13
welshpug!

Capt Pedantic

Location: Bigend, Wales.

Registered: 27 Mar 2007

Posts: 25,838

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Post #12
That is quite typical if a hg has failed, contaminated oil does the bearings no good.

you do know number 4 on a pug engine is timing belt end right?

if it is knocking, do not run it again, or it will be scrap from damaged crank and conrod.

________________________________________

need a part number? get on here - http://public.servicebox.peugeot.com

Bring on the Trumpets.

Posted 2nd Jul 2014 at 17:56
bunty99

Newbie

Location: hexham

Registered: 01 Jun 2014

Posts: 14

Status: Offline

Post #13
the head gasket never failed.. I have done head rebuild as I thought I have bent valves and they were all fine..

ok if no4 is timing belt end then knocking is on no1. gearbox end....

its got brand new and clean 5/40 fully sys oil in..
Posted 2nd Jul 2014 at 19:26
welshpug!

Capt Pedantic

Location: Bigend, Wales.

Registered: 27 Mar 2007

Posts: 25,838

Status: Offline

Post #14
bugger, either way it needs to come apart to see what's wrong Doh

________________________________________

need a part number? get on here - http://public.servicebox.peugeot.com

Bring on the Trumpets.

Posted 2nd Jul 2014 at 20:08
bunty99

Newbie

Location: hexham

Registered: 01 Jun 2014

Posts: 14

Status: Offline

Post #15
think am just going to sell, as I have ran out of money. maxed out all my plastic fantastic to fix head problems cant afford to fix bottom end I literally don't have the money.. plus needs taxing when all done so I can actually drive it on road.. still got mot..

spent bloody loads but im in need of money asap soo its guna have to goo Sad
Posted 2nd Jul 2014 at 20:19
buzzbrightyear

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Post #16
Trouble is it's worth feck all hardly with a dodgy engine in

________________________________________

andrew315rawson@live.co.uk
Moonstone phase 7 gti6
My Project thread: http://www.306gti6.com/forum/showthread.php?id=119992&page=1
Posted 2nd Jul 2014 at 21:01
Niall

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Location: Epsom

Registered: 06 Jun 2012

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Post #17
Like Welshpug says, contaminated oil does these no good at all. I suffered that on my new engine and destroyed big end 1 after 500 miles. Thankfully i caught it in time (like it sounds like you may have done) where the crank just needed a polish and a new set of bearings fitted.
I would whip them out and check them if i was you. Removing the big end bearings really isn't a big job in reality (I had all mine out in 45 minutes). You will just get bored of undoing them sump bolts lol.
If your fortunate enough to not have badly damaged the crank, you can polish it back up in situ (you have to be sure it hasn't been badly over heated) and fit new bearings and then run it in again.
Posted 3rd Jul 2014 at 20:53

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