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"Police arrested two kids yesterday, one was drinking battery acid, the other was eating fireworks. They charged one and let the other one off."
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displaying posts 26 to 47 of 47
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| Author | Subject: knocking noise |
jimmyrallye
Seasoned Pro Location: portsmouth Registered: 19 Apr 2008 Posts: 3,144 Status: Offline |
Post #26
Sorry to see this bud ![]() ________________________________________ "Police arrested two kids yesterday, one was drinking battery acid, the other was eating fireworks. They charged one and let the other one off." |
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bigbadbowen
Seasoned Pro Location: Winchester Registered: 21 Nov 2003 Posts: 13,753 Status: Offline |
Post #27
What bearings did you use ? Will need a grind now I'd say ? |
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Niall
Seasoned Pro Location: Epsom Registered: 06 Jun 2012 Posts: 1,941 Status: Offline |
Post #28
Glyco bearings mate. Im not 100% sure actually. That picture makes the crank look a lot worse than it is so i may be able to clean it up but will have a proper look in decent light tomorrow. |
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bigbadbowen
Seasoned Pro Location: Winchester Registered: 21 Nov 2003 Posts: 13,753 Status: Offline |
Post #29
I'd get some acl race bearings |
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Niall
Seasoned Pro Location: Epsom Registered: 06 Jun 2012 Posts: 1,941 Status: Offline |
Post #30
I will be ordering some tomorrow mate |
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rallyestyle
Seasoned Pro Location: London Registered: 23 Jul 2003 Posts: 14,991 Status: Offline |
Post #31
Everything looked so good!________________________________________ Just Drive It |
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allanallen
Seasoned Pro Location: Buxton Registered: 01 May 2007 Posts: 1,399 Status: Offline |
Post #32
No need for fancy bearings, you need to find the problem foremost or it'll happen again. I'd get the crank properly checked out as well as having the rods checked for roundness. If they've had any heat in them they will have gone oval and be scrap.The crank wants all the oil ways checking and at minimum a polish but probably a grind, and the oil pump needs inspecting if you think it's an oil problem. I'd seriously consider checking the bearing clearances when you rebuild it too. ________________________________________ www.bridgecraftmotorsport.co.uk |
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rallyeash
Seasoned Pro Location: Devizes Registered: 11 Dec 2006 Posts: 4,424 Status: Offline |
Post #33
yes you really need to know the bearing clearances when building. Plastigauge kit is very cheap and so simple to use. otherwise your not actually understanding how tight they are running, the crank may spin on a dry build but the clearance may not be enough for a decent film of oil.________________________________________ 230 hp 2.1 16v XU 205 rallye on jenveys Project thread here309 3dr K20 Type R |
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Niall
Seasoned Pro Location: Epsom Registered: 06 Jun 2012 Posts: 1,941 Status: Offline |
Post #34
Well I've ordered a plastiguage kit and some new bearings. Going to get the pump off tonight so I can have a look at the other two bearings and at the pump it's self to make sure it hasn't dropped it's pressure for some reason.I suspect the issue could of been that it went on the dyno too soon after the rebuild. They really did give it some death. Also, what oil would people use for running in and what sort of change intervals to start with? I've been using Magnatec and it's been changed 3 times in 300 miles for various reasons. One of them changes was due to petrol in the oil as the map I had before dropped a s**t load of fuel in on idle for some reason (possible reason for the failure!?) |
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allanallen
Seasoned Pro Location: Buxton Registered: 01 May 2007 Posts: 1,399 Status: Offline |
Post #35
You can't order bearings untill you've sorted the crank! It may look ok but be far from it, you could just be sacrificing another set of bearings.Once the rings are bedded in (20minutes or so) the engine is run in so you can't blame it on that on the mapping. There's defo an issue with the crank, rods, bearing clearance or oil feed. Be careful if you decide to go for fancy race bearings as some run bigger clearance which might not be desirable for your application. Initial bedding should be done on running in oil or cheap s**t mineral oil, after that you wanna be using a decent semi or fully synth. Magnatec is s**t IMO, speak to oilman if you're concerned ________________________________________ www.bridgecraftmotorsport.co.uk |
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stan_306gti6
Forum AdminLocation: Kent Registered: 18 Jan 2004 Posts: 21,769 Status: Offline |
Post #36
Agree with Magnetec not being suitable.Petrol in the oil won't have helped, but I agree with Allen - this needs further looking in to. ![]() ________________________________________ "Supercharged - 454.1bhp/317.5lb/ft"Peugeot 306 GTi-6 2000 (X), Moonstone |
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Niall
Seasoned Pro Location: Epsom Registered: 06 Jun 2012 Posts: 1,941 Status: Offline |
Post #37
Allen, I've ordered both standard and 0.30 as the guy didn't have either in stock so I've got a choice when I go to pick them up and know what size I need. Will be having a proper look tonight and will hopefully find out why! |
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allanallen
Seasoned Pro Location: Buxton Registered: 01 May 2007 Posts: 1,399 Status: Offline |
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ryangti6
Seasoned Pro Location: Pontypool Registered: 01 Sep 2006 Posts: 1,839 Status: Offline |
Post #39
May be a stupid thing to remind you but It's easily forgotten, make sure you strip the oil pump down and clean it thoroughly when you check it over, it will be full of crap now.When you built the engine did you use assembly compound like graphogen etc? Those bearing do look like they've suffered a lack of lubrication one way or another. ________________________________________ Ryan |
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Niall
Seasoned Pro Location: Epsom Registered: 06 Jun 2012 Posts: 1,941 Status: Offline |
Post #40
Problem found!Main bearing cap between 3 and 4, the rear bolt wasn't tight. Why it wasn't i don't know as I'm 99% sure i went over them all double checked they were all torqued up but obviously not! Ryan, Pump is being stripped down this eve. Just looking for the rebuild guide now ![]() It was built up wet with oil. |
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welshpug!
Capt Pedantic Location: Bigend, Wales. Registered: 27 Mar 2007 Posts: 25,871 Status: Offline |
Post #41
what has that to do with number 1 big end dying?________________________________________ need a part number? get on here - http://public.servicebox.peugeot.comBring on the Trumpets. |
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Niall
Seasoned Pro Location: Epsom Registered: 06 Jun 2012 Posts: 1,941 Status: Offline |
Post #42
Sorry, wasn't concentrating when i typed that. Between 1 and 2. I was thinking the other way around lol. |
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welshpug!
Capt Pedantic Location: Bigend, Wales. Registered: 27 Mar 2007 Posts: 25,871 Status: Offline |
Post #43
same question applies :p________________________________________ need a part number? get on here - http://public.servicebox.peugeot.comBring on the Trumpets. |
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stan_306gti6
Forum AdminLocation: Kent Registered: 18 Jan 2004 Posts: 21,769 Status: Offline |
Post #44
welshpug! wrote: what has that to do with number 1 big end dying? For once I agree with Meirion... ![]() ________________________________________ "Supercharged - 454.1bhp/317.5lb/ft"Peugeot 306 GTi-6 2000 (X), Moonstone |
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Niall
Seasoned Pro Location: Epsom Registered: 06 Jun 2012 Posts: 1,941 Status: Offline |
Post #45
To quote a mahle paper...."The main bearing oil groove is required for the sole purpose of supplying oil to the connecting rod big end bearing" Leading me to think, if that main bearing wasn't tight enough to keep up pressure, it would of been getting enough oil to the big end. |
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welshpug!
Capt Pedantic Location: Bigend, Wales. Registered: 27 Mar 2007 Posts: 25,871 Status: Offline |
Post #46
so the main is shot too?________________________________________ need a part number? get on here - http://public.servicebox.peugeot.comBring on the Trumpets. |
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cully
Seasoned Pro Location: Cullompton Registered: 12 Jun 2013 Posts: 1,093 Status: Offline |
Post #47
if the main cap is loose the oil would escape at the main and not transfer to the bigend due to loss of flow/pressure at the maingo look at a crank and trace the oil way from the big end you will find a drilling diaganal into the main |
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