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Author Subject: knocking noise
jimmyrallye

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Post #26
Sorry to see this bud Sad

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Posted 9th Mar 2014 at 18:59
bigbadbowen

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Location: Winchester

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Post #27
What bearings did you use ?

Will need a grind now I'd say ?
Posted 9th Mar 2014 at 19:09
Niall

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Post #28
Glyco bearings mate. Im not 100% sure actually. That picture makes the crank look a lot worse than it is so i may be able to clean it up but will have a proper look in decent light tomorrow.
Posted 9th Mar 2014 at 19:16
bigbadbowen

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Post #29
I'd get some acl race bearings
Posted 9th Mar 2014 at 19:53
Niall

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Post #30
I will be ordering some tomorrow mate Smile
Posted 9th Mar 2014 at 20:06
rallyestyle

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Location: London

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Post #31
Sad Everything looked so good!

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Posted 10th Mar 2014 at 08:45
allanallen

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Post #32
No need for fancy bearings, you need to find the problem foremost or it'll happen again. I'd get the crank properly checked out as well as having the rods checked for roundness. If they've had any heat in them they will have gone oval and be scrap.
The crank wants all the oil ways checking and at minimum a polish but probably a grind, and the oil pump needs inspecting if you think it's an oil problem.
I'd seriously consider checking the bearing clearances when you rebuild it too.

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Posted 10th Mar 2014 at 08:59
rallyeash

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Post #33
yes you really need to know the bearing clearances when building. Plastigauge kit is very cheap and so simple to use. otherwise your not actually understanding how tight they are running, the crank may spin on a dry build but the clearance may not be enough for a decent film of oil.

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Posted 10th Mar 2014 at 09:55
Niall

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Post #34
Well I've ordered a plastiguage kit and some new bearings. Going to get the pump off tonight so I can have a look at the other two bearings and at the pump it's self to make sure it hasn't dropped it's pressure for some reason.
I suspect the issue could of been that it went on the dyno too soon after the rebuild. They really did give it some death.
Also, what oil would people use for running in and what sort of change intervals to start with? I've been using Magnatec and it's been changed 3 times in 300 miles for various reasons. One of them changes was due to petrol in the oil as the map I had before dropped a s**t load of fuel in on idle for some reason (possible reason for the failure!?)
Posted 10th Mar 2014 at 10:59
allanallen

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Post #35
You can't order bearings untill you've sorted the crank! It may look ok but be far from it, you could just be sacrificing another set of bearings.

Once the rings are bedded in (20minutes or so) the engine is run in so you can't blame it on that on the mapping. There's defo an issue with the crank, rods, bearing clearance or oil feed.
Be careful if you decide to go for fancy race bearings as some run bigger clearance which might not be desirable for your application.
Initial bedding should be done on running in oil or cheap s**t mineral oil, after that you wanna be using a decent semi or fully synth. Magnatec is s**t IMO, speak to oilman if you're concerned

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Posted 10th Mar 2014 at 11:45
stan_306gti6 Forum Admin

Location: Kent

Registered: 18 Jan 2004

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Post #36
Agree with Magnetec not being suitable.

Petrol in the oil won't have helped, but I agree with Allen - this needs further looking in to. Yes

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Posted 10th Mar 2014 at 15:32
Niall

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Post #37
Allen, I've ordered both standard and 0.30 as the guy didn't have either in stock so I've got a choice when I go to pick them up and know what size I need.

Will be having a proper look tonight and will hopefully find out why!
Posted 10th Mar 2014 at 15:38
allanallen

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Post #38
Good man! Smile

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Posted 10th Mar 2014 at 16:39
ryangti6

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Post #39
May be a stupid thing to remind you but It's easily forgotten, make sure you strip the oil pump down and clean it thoroughly when you check it over, it will be full of crap now.

When you built the engine did you use assembly compound like graphogen etc? Those bearing do look like they've suffered a lack of lubrication one way or another.

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Posted 10th Mar 2014 at 16:52
Niall

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Post #40
Problem found!

Main bearing cap between 3 and 4, the rear bolt wasn't tight. Why it wasn't i don't know as I'm 99% sure i went over them all double checked they were all torqued up but obviously not!

Ryan, Pump is being stripped down this eve. Just looking for the rebuild guide now Smile
It was built up wet with oil.
Posted 10th Mar 2014 at 17:22
welshpug!

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Location: Bigend, Wales.

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Post #41
what has that to do with number 1 big end dying?

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Posted 10th Mar 2014 at 17:54
Niall

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Post #42
Sorry, wasn't concentrating when i typed that. Between 1 and 2. I was thinking the other way around lol.
Posted 10th Mar 2014 at 17:56
welshpug!

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Post #43
same question applies :p

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Posted 10th Mar 2014 at 18:16
stan_306gti6 Forum Admin

Location: Kent

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Post #44
welshpug! wrote:
what has that to do with number 1 big end dying?


For once I agree with Meirion...Laugh

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Posted 10th Mar 2014 at 23:17
Niall

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Post #45
To quote a mahle paper....

"The main bearing oil groove is required for the sole purpose of supplying oil to the connecting rod big end bearing"

Leading me to think, if that main bearing wasn't tight enough to keep up pressure, it would of been getting enough oil to the big end.
Posted 10th Mar 2014 at 23:22
welshpug!

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Location: Bigend, Wales.

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Post #46
so the main is shot too?

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Posted 11th Mar 2014 at 10:13
cully

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Post #47
if the main cap is loose the oil would escape at the main and not transfer to the bigend due to loss of flow/pressure at the main

go look at a crank and trace the oil way from the big end you will find a drilling diaganal into the main Wink
Posted 11th Mar 2014 at 12:50

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