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Author Subject: Rear pads jettisoned - piston seized?
meoldchina

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Location: East Yorkshire

Registered: 08 Aug 2012

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Post #1
Stopped off for a rest break on way back from a spirited drive. Setting off, there was a loud clunk followed by scarey brake pedal travel, had to pump to get it to brake. Limped home, another clunk nearer home. The clunks were my pads being deposited, luckily didn't hit anything behind me.

May be I should have let the brakes cool down before applying the handbrake or the pads weren't secured properly or the caliper seized, not sure which.

Just took the wheel off to fit new pads with new fitting kit, following the excellent FAQ on here.

I can't get the piston back in, have tried rotating it but it's not budging. Could be that I haven't got anything the right size that is strong enough, I now have a few mishapen metal objects that I tried with.

Any suggestions on: what caused it, is the caliper kaput, do I need to find something stronger to try rotating piston back in before resorting to visiting a local garage?
Posted 3rd Sep 2013 at 20:32
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superchargedblack1997gti6

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Location: guildford

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Post #2
you can buy the piston winder kits off the bay for a cheap enough price mate?

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Posted 3rd Sep 2013 at 20:45
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coskev

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Location: Oswestry

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Post #3
Could be the piston has come out of the caliperThumbs down

If your bleed nipple is not seized/snapped off try slackening it off when pushing the piston inWink

Something must have been missing from the pad retainers for them to come outSmile

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Posted 3rd Sep 2013 at 20:50
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welshpug!

Capt Pedantic

Location: Bigend, Wales.

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Post #4
superchargedblack1997gti6 wrote:
you can buy the piston winder kits off the bay for a cheap enough price mate?


none of them will work on the bendix caliper, all you need is a square section rod or a good large screwdriver.


as kev said, it could have wound off the end of the screw, so will take some fiddling to wind it back in.

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Posted 3rd Sep 2013 at 20:56
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superchargedblack1997gti6

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Post #5
I have the right one somewhere got it off the snapon man?

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Posted 3rd Sep 2013 at 20:59
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welshpug!

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Post #6
given the centreline of the piston is bang on where the pad carrier sits, I cannot imagine how any of them will work.

i.e if you bought this off the snapon man specifically for a small french hot hatch of the 80's or 90's, he's had your pants down Laugh my ass off

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Posted 3rd Sep 2013 at 21:08
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superchargedblack1997gti6

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Post #7
Mate he's had my pants down so many times he pulls them back up for me now!

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Posted 3rd Sep 2013 at 21:13
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meoldchina

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Location: East Yorkshire

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Post #8
Thanks for the words of wisdom (+1'd)

I've not taken caliper off before so will call the local garage to see if they are clued up / have kit etc.

Started searching after your advice:

http://amzn.to/XOafYn - apparently this can be used with a ratchet to wind back in (there's probably a uk version, perhaps this is what the snapon man gave?)

Apparently the outer dust boot can stick to the piston, so is beneficial to re-seat first - this is beyond me though - just added in case anyone finds this post when searching etc.
Posted 3rd Sep 2013 at 21:58
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Castor_Troy

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Location: Forfar

Registered: 25 Jul 2013

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Post #9
superchargedblack1997gti6 wrote:
Mate he's had my pants down so many times he pulls them back up for me now!


LOL Thought that was just the local snap on man must be a national problem Yes
Posted 3rd Sep 2013 at 22:13
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superchargedblack1997gti6

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Post #10
meoldchina that's exactly the sort of thing mine has only one size though! is a form of socket from memory.

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Posted 3rd Sep 2013 at 22:20
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welshpug!

Capt Pedantic

Location: Bigend, Wales.

Registered: 27 Mar 2007

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Post #11
That wont fit either!

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need a part number? get on here - http://public.servicebox.peugeot.com

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Posted 3rd Sep 2013 at 22:21
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buzzbrightyear

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Post #12
superchargedblack1997gti6 wrote:
Mate he's had my pants down so many times he pulls them back up for me now!

LOL

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Posted 3rd Sep 2013 at 22:25
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Niall

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Post #13
give the piston a tap with the hammer first. They thread out so far and then have about 8-10mm of just sitting in the calliper body. if its unwound and is just being held by the piston seal, it wont wind up. Push it in then try and wind it in whilst maintaining pressure on the piston.
I use a bit of 4mm steel bar to wind mine in although now i have just rebuilt them, i can easily do them with a small screwdriver Smile
Posted 3rd Sep 2013 at 23:14
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armzsc6

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Post #14
welshpug! wrote:
That wont fit either!


I generally use a screwdriver with a square shaft fits lovely however if they are really seized I remove the calliper carrier (2x17mm bolts) then use a standard wind back tool and lean on it while winding. Usually squashes it back in ok after some muscle.

But yes you can't use a wind back tool in a conventional way.

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Posted 4th Sep 2013 at 01:02
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heliosphan

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Post #15
meoldchina wrote:
Setting off, there was a loud clunk followed by scarey brake pedal travel, had to pump to get it to brake.


The same thing happened to me several years ago. Some poo came out. LOL
Luckily I was on a country lane and there was no other traffic around.
Can't remember if I found out exactly why the caliper threw a pad but at least it hasn't done it again since.
Posted 4th Sep 2013 at 11:33
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armzsc6

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Post #16
I think the pads come out if the clips aren't located correctly. The usual one ive seen is the tiny pin that holds the metal wedge at the bottom isn't fitted properly or comes out then the wedge works loose and falls out so do the pads.

Either that or people bend the 2 spring clips that hold the top of the pads in so they no longer spring as muh as they should then fall off an pads come out that way.

Replace all the clips and give everything a bloody good clean up and you won't have any issues. I've fitted hundreds at work and never had any come back falling out. Just ones other garages have done lol

________________________________________

Black power baby! SUUUUUPERCHARGED Superman
Seat Leon FR TDI 190BHP 300lbft daily gti-6 killer :p
12x 306's owned so far

Cambelts, clutches, service work carried out on All makes and models, Peugeot Citroen / mitsubishi specialist.
Pug planet / Citroen Lexia diagnostics / code reads available.
Posted 5th Sep 2013 at 14:06
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meoldchina

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Post #17
Bought 'the cube' today, gonna give it a go later.

One of the spring clips is missing from the other side (that still has old pads in) - matter of time before they went too it seems!

There's only one pin clip for each metal wedge in the fitting kit, but the wedges have holes on both sides - guessing this is a manufacturing thing so they are universal for both sides. Planning on putting the pin clip in the inside hole as this looks right from the FAQ on here.

When cleaning the brakes, what is best to use? Do I just scrape away caked on dirt/dust or is using a spray cleaner more effective?

Is it advisable to copper grease the top, bottom and back of the pads as well as the caliper itself?
Posted 7th Sep 2013 at 16:09
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coskev

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Post #18
Yeah smear of copper grease on the parts of pad that need to slide/move where they contact caliper/carrier Thumbs up

Brake cleaner is good stuff, evaporates easily.wire brush all areas where pad contacts caliper/pad carrier.

I like to do a dry fit of pads with no copper grease to check they are not tight in the carriers,some pads require a light going over with a file as the paint can be abit thick and cause them to stick in the carrier.Wink

Once they are a nice fit in the carrier smear on a light coat of copper grease and do your final fit.

You are correct in saying the small retaining clip fits on the inside onlyYes

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Mac1 ZR R1 kit car build in progress.
Posted 8th Sep 2013 at 09:32
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meoldchina

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Post #19
Thanks for your advice, really helped with my confidence in doing this, all +1'd for useful comments Thumbs up very satisfying taking it apart and getting all the gunk off.

Managed to wind the piston back about 1cm but then it seemed to stop retracting. At this point it cycled between a quarter turn of moderate resistance then three or four turns of minimal resistance. I kept winding it for a good twenty minutes or so but no way I was going to get the pads in there!

Like a true spanner, I realised I didn't have any spanners when I went to loosen to bleed nipple - was half-relieved as I gather they are quite brittle.

A friend suggested soaking it in wd40, but haven't got the kit or confidence to clamp fluid lines, keep car jacked up etc.

Thinking of calling it a day and taking it to a garage, unless I'm missing something obvious & achievable with my very limited tools and skills.

D'you reckon a garage will fob me with, "I need a new caliper"?
Posted 8th Sep 2013 at 16:53
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fordygti

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Post #20
Also big a new pad fitting kit, I had this happen to me aswell, the split pin and slider just got old and worn and decided they had had enough. From memory it's about 26 quid from Peugeot.

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Posted 8th Sep 2013 at 17:00
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jimmyhackers

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Post #21
rear nipples are c**ts a snap like twigs... but yeah slacken off the bleed nipple on that caliper and the piston moves a hell of a a lot more easily.

you might need to bleed your brakes after this if you get air in there.

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Posted 8th Sep 2013 at 19:40
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coskev

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Post #22
You need to wind the piston in at the same time as pressing it in, winding alone won't return it fully.Wink

Also remove the brake fluid resevoir capThumbs up

Bleed nipple are a nightmare, get a wire brush attachment in a drill and clean up all around the nipple, soak in wd40 then use a 6 sided socket on itSmile

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Red GTB1756 powered Fabia VRS daily driver,LBSC Gti6 eater........

Mac1 ZR R1 kit car build in progress.
Posted 8th Sep 2013 at 20:09
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meoldchina

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Location: East Yorkshire

Registered: 08 Aug 2012

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Post #23
Thanks again for your direction on this Thumbs up

Email reply from local garage,

"...the most logical reason for brake piston not retracting is the face of the piston body to be in poor condition. We would remove the calliper and attempt to remove the piston and the asses the condition of the piston and calliper bore.

Please note we would need the car all day as we are not confirm how long it would take to free off the piston i.e soak in release oil.

Estimated cost would be £80 + vat"

Reckon I'll give it another stab then!

Do I need to remove the caliper to soak the bleed nipple? How long do I need to soak it?

Guessing brake fluid will exit the bleed nipple if the piston goes back in?
Posted 9th Sep 2013 at 20:29
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coskev

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Post #24
I would try it with brake fluid resevoir cap unscrewed before trying to undo bleed nipple.

But yeah, if bleed nipple comes undone fluid will run out of itThumbs up

________________________________________

Red GTB1756 powered Fabia VRS daily driver,LBSC Gti6 eater........

Mac1 ZR R1 kit car build in progress.
Posted 10th Sep 2013 at 06:04
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meoldchina

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Location: East Yorkshire

Registered: 08 Aug 2012

Posts: 244

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Post #25
Will get some sort of fluid receptacle for that then, hope it doesn't gush out!

Would I just unscrew reservoir cap so not airtight, i.e. leave in situ rather than remove completely?

Thanks again Smile
Posted 12th Sep 2013 at 17:21
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